Mainsheet rigging has to much drag

[bluesman]

I went on my maiden voyage on my 17' daysailer and the mainsheet setup with Ronstan blocks is as shown on the picture. I think it is threaded through the blocks correctly although I have not found a schematic to confirm.

In was sailing in 2-8 knots and the boom would not swing out easily with so much drag in the system. I had to push the boom out to sail on a run in even moderate wind. I have never felt so much drag in any sailboat I have sailed.

Much more concerning was the inability of the main sheet to release when a bug gust came along. It was a little scary. Not sure if anyone else has such a high mechanical setup like this on a little Daysailer? I am thinking about changing the setup using these blocks but reducing the multiple. Not sure exactly how to do it?

 

[Apex]

the line looks a little heavy as well...do you have a smaller sheet you can use?

For rigging, there should be as little L-R misalignment as possible. Start on the one side of the block, working your way across, it seems some are crossing over or skipping a block...

 

[bluesman]

This is my only sheet. The way it is Reaves seems to be so that when the line leaves the top block it comes out of the center pully so that the force is centered

 

[Nom De Guerre]

Agree with apex, that line looks much too large for a 17' boat. You say maiden voyage, so let's assume it's always performed that poorly with that line as the mainsheet. Not only will the system have too much friction, but, it will also be too heavy to move well in light airs (one of your symptoms).

Swap it out for something more reasonable. I suspect 3/8"or less, this site should have a recommendation if you use the rigging calculator

 

[RichBone]

Go down one size on the line diameter and reeve the line so it doesn't cross.

 

[agprice22]

To reduce this system:

40mm single block with becket and swivel. (Connects to traveler)
40mm double block with swivel. (Connects to boom).
3/8 line the same length or a few feet shorter than your current set up.

Tie the line to the becket. Run it up and through one sheave on the double block at the boom. Run the line back down and through the sheave on the single block at the traveler. Run the line up and through the second sheave on the boom. Run the line forward to your midboom block and down to your mainsheet cleat.

In the alternative, you could use a set up that would move the mainsheet control to the traveler, like a C22. That would mean a single block with a swivel on the boom end and a single block with a swivel, a becket, and a cam cleat for the traveler end. This would put the mainsheet control near the tiller rather than in the middle of the cockpit. It works well, and it helps the line not get caught up on things in the cockpit.

...lots of ways to rig it. Just make it the right size, so it will run free.

Thanks,

Andrew

 

[Ward H]

I first thought also was that the sheet was too large a diameter. Larger line doesn't bend as well smaller line so a smaller line would have less friction going through the blocks.
You also mentioned the main sheet does not release in a gust. I imagine you have a cam cleat to hold the sheet? That is another sign that the sheet is too large a diameter.
The store on this site does not calculate mainsheet sizes so you would need to call them.
I would also recommend APSLTD.com. I have had very good luck calling them for line recommendations.

As far as size goes, for a comparison, the specifications for my 25' O'day calls for 3/8 line for the main sheet. I went with 7/16 and it works but has a lot more friction than it should and the line just barely goes through the main sheet cam cleat. I plan to change that out at some point.

 

[Daydreamer]

I agree that the line may be oversize and crossing lines in the tackle will cause friction and chafe.

I am using a 4:1 fiddle block setup with 3/8 line on my 22. New line and ball bearing sheaves run quite smooth. However in light air, 2-6 kts, I will have to push the boom out on a run or a jybe. In 10-15 kts I have enough power to adjust.

 

[centerline]

its a 17ft boat... the main sheet should be 1/4"... 5/16 at the max.

you may not realize how much drag the line can have when its multiplied 5 times, like you have it rigged, but its a lot..

there is no way a light breeze will pull the 3/8 line thru those mainsheet blocks on that boat.... you dont have enough sail area to create the pull required.

and.... if you were to get the lower block down as low as possible, you will be able to create a better sail shape before you would need to employ a boom vang...

 

[Brian S]

That is way overkill. As noted by previous posters, you can re-rig with fewer turns in your purchase, using blocks with fiddles, etc.

Here is a great article on mechanical advantage on multipart purchase systems, including some instruction on how to reeve your existing blocks: http://l-36.com/blocks_mechanical_advantage.php

I personally would get rid of those blocks you are using. I have only a 3:1 purchase on my mainsheet for the O'day 192, and it does fine. I personally prefer 3/8" line for mainsheets, including on my Harpoon 4.6 daysailer, because I hold on to it all the time (well, in the Harpoon, anyway. And while hiking.) If you find you need a soft line that's easy on the hands and reeves well through a purchase, I am very happy with New England Ropes Salsa, but it is ugly. The Grey color is not horrible… I use 5/16" on the O'day jib sheets, and 1/4" on the Harpoon jib sheets, 3/8" for main sheet on both boats.

 

[Sunbird22358]

I posted the below specs before I realised that you have a Cape Cod Shipbuilding built Day Sailer, but that mainsheet is way overkill!
I'll add some pictures of how the CCSB built boats come from the factory.

Rigging Specs for the O'DAY-built Day Sailers (DS II ,but DS I should be same except no CB control lines):
O’DAY RIGGING SPECS FOR DAY SAILER II
(Taken from a 1979 O’DAY memo and info provided by D&R Marine)

RUNNING RIGGING:​

MAIN HALYARD:¼” x 45’Dacron (Shackle spliced to end)

MAINSHEET:
(Mid-Boom-1974-85)3/8” x 25’ Dacron Double-Braid (spliced to becket on block)

(1971-74 end-boom)3/8” x 38’ Dacron Double-Braid

DOWNHAUL:¼” x 36” Dacron Double-Braid

OUTHAUL:¼” x 8’ 6” Dacron(For “Block-Action” outhaul)
¼” x 7’ Dacron(for stock outhaul)

JIB HALYARD:¼” x 31’ Dacron (Shackle spliced to one end)

JIB SHEETS:5/16” x 22’ Dacron Double-Braid(11’ each side)

BOOM-VANG:¼” x 10’ Dacron Double-Braid Spliced to becket on single block
¼” x 24” Dacron Double-BraidLine to fasten lower block to mast


CENTERBOARD:
Lowering line5/16” x 29” Dacron knot in CB recess (mid 1974-85)
1/8” x (?)”7x19 SS wire(1971-mid 1974)

Control-Line¼” x 15’6” Dacron 3-strand(1977-85)
¼” x 13’ Dacron3-strand(mid-1974-early 1977)
¼” x 16’(?) Dacron 3-strand(1971-mid 1974)

LiftingCable1/8” – 7x19 Stainless-Steel wire approx. 24” long
(15 ½” between Nicropress sleeves that form loops at each end.)

Shock-Cord14” x 10 ½”(14” of cord with a loop in each end)

STANDING RIGGING​

Head stay:1/8” x 15’11 ½”

Side stays (Shrouds): (2):1/8” x 15’11”

*Original Head stay and side stays were 3/32” 1x19 SS wire, but most boats have been upgraded to 1/8” since 3/32” is not really strong enough.​

All standing rigging is SS 1x19 type wire. All standing rigging lengths are with turnbuckle (where applicable) closed from eye to eye. All lengths and specifications are approximate and subject to change without notice.​

Diagrams for rigging mainsheet and jibsheets shown below along with a picture of how my mid-boom mainsheet is rigged (not actually my boat, but a sistership) I have a 3/8" diam mainsheet, as others said, you need the "oversize" line for "feel", that is, ease of handling the sheet and gripping it in the camcleat.
The "Alternate" setup with a rope traveler across the stern is pretty close to the CCSB rigged "racing" model.