Mainsheet Block

[nversandi]

Hello all,

I just purchased a 2009 Hunter 170, and during my first "test" rig, I ran into only one problem - the mainsheet block which attaches to the deck.

The issue is that I can't get the two pins (one to the deck and the other to the mainsheet block) through the spring AND through the eyeholes. It seems like it requires you to push down the spring to make the ends meet and then get the pins through, which is near impossible! :cussing:

Does anyone have a close up of a picture they could provide to see if I'm doing it right. Here are the pieces involved:

1 spring
2 black plastic (washer style) disks
2 pins
1 eye hole hook (for lack of better terms)

Any help would be very much appreciated!

Nick

 

[BlueRunner]

I'll take a look at mine tomorrow and shoot you a photo. My main sheet block was attached when I bought the boat and haven't had it off yet.

I just took a look at the manual on page 28 and it does imply that there are 2 pins inside of a spring. Looks like a real bear to put those pins in.

 

[BlueRunner]

I never gave my mainsheet block any thought as it was installed when I took delivery of the boat. I don't see ANY way to get the 2 pins installed as a unit. Note, on my installation the top pin locking right goes around the spring. However, I'm wondering about the screw head above the spring. There is a screw on each side of the block. Perhaps taking out these screws will make the pins/spring easier to install. At least that looks like the only avenue to me to solve your problem.

 

[Brian M H23]

You might be able to "screw" the spring onto the whole assembly afterwords

 

[BlueRunner]

You might be able to "screw" the spring onto the whole assembly afterwords

Assuming the 2 set screws on either side are what attaches the block to the base assembly, the above method is probably the correct procedure. On my assembly, only the top locking ring also includes being attached to the spring which would be fairly easy to do after the 2 lower pins are secure with locking rings.

I'm going to assume it's done that way to keep the spring in place if there was a need to takeoff the lower block.

 

[esterhazyinoz]

What does the rest of your block look like? The lower mainsheet block that I received with my H15 looks like it has a different base. Can you please post a slightly wider angled photo?
Cheers,

 

[nversandi]

Esterhazyinoz and BlueRunner,

Thank you so much for your replies, picture, and helpful advice. You are both great examples of how resourceful this forum can be.

I'm traveling at the moment, but in a week I should be able to give it a shot (or "screw") as you've suggested. I'll take a picture as well.

Lucky for you the block came attached - I was near crazy toying with the spring and pins.

Best regards,

Nick

 

[esterhazyinoz]

Now that all the bits of my new H15 have arrived I will do a "Dry" rig in my driveway this weekend. So far things are going together well. I've reversed the camcleat on the mainsheet block so I can release the sheet by pulling upwards (actually Harkin mentions in their catalog "cam reverses for up or down engagement" for this 058 fiddle). Have also installed (roughly) a boomkicker (a treat for myself as I always hated it when I dropped the main halyard in my last boat and the boom came crashing into the sole of the cockpit. Now if I can just get the trailer licensed I can get her (Tallulah) into the water!

 

[esterhazyinoz]

Hi Again,
I approached the attachment of my mainsheet fiddle block to my new boat with great trepidation after seeing the photo that Bluerunner posted. But when I was sitting in the boat and pulling the hardware out of the shipping box I realised that I have a different set up than the 170's. Either that or Hunter has changed the hardware spec for their new fibreglass boats.
My set up for the mainsheet block doesn't have a camcleat on the swivel extension that I see in the 170 photo. My boat has a simple standup base (see attached photo) with the camcleat attached to the fiddle block (a Harken 058 little fiddle with becket-see photo attached). The way I attached it was this:
I removed the little shackelesque thing on the bottom of the fiddle block (I circled this on the fiddle photo). That exposed a shaft with a lateral hole (are we keeping a straight face still). Anyway, then I put the spring over the standing base. Finally I held the fiddle block in one hand and held the clevis pin in a pair of goose-neck vice grip pliers, pushed down with the block compressing the spring and inserted the clevis pin through the shafts. Lining up the holes was tricky and there was no way I could have got that pin in without the goose-neck pliers.
Don't know if this helps but I'm sure it gave you a good laugh!
Cheers!
PS. Also I inverted the camcleat so I can release the sheet upwards