I see that the mainsheet on my recently purchased 1977 oday 22 attaches to the backstay. To me this seems a little odd and stressful to the backstay hull fastening. Iwondered how other 22 owners feel about this and also how it performs. ( I haven't launched yet) Andy
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Sergio
Mainsheet Traveler
I agree, and on mine, I have carefully attached a 1/2" semi-taught line to the transom from port to starboard. But not before placing a 2" block with a swivel eye on it. This swivel eye fits into the clevis of the mainsheet block.
I agree, and on mine, I have carefully attached a 1/2" semi-taught line to the transom from port to starboard. But not before placing a 2" block with a swivel eye on it. This swivel eye fits into the clevis of the mainsheet block.
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Jim
backstay
the 78 22' that I bouth at the end of last season has the same setup and I thought it odd as well. Not only that but the hull fitting for the backstay was so lose and worn that that it would pull right out. I will be bolting a chainplate to the transom as soon as the weather gets warm. I was also looking as the possibility of a travaler as well.
the 78 22' that I bouth at the end of last season has the same setup and I thought it odd as well. Not only that but the hull fitting for the backstay was so lose and worn that that it would pull right out. I will be bolting a chainplate to the transom as soon as the weather gets warm. I was also looking as the possibility of a travaler as well.
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Stu Timm
Quick Traveler
Hello, Yes, the mainsheet attachment is a bit odd. I have a 1979 22 footer, but it came with a neat traveler setup that you can easily make. The previous owner set up the mainsheet block attached to the boat via a sturdy line that's run port to starboard (over the tiller arm) between the aft cleats. The traveler line is adjustable and allows the block to slide. It does clutter up the cleat however which makes attaching docking lines a tad tricky. ( I'm on a mooring so it doesn't matter much to me.) The little wire that used to hold the mainsheet block now acts as a handy boom crutch. When I am not under sail, the boom hangs off the back stay inert with a small snap shackle attached to the end of that little wire. The snap shackle attaches to the end of the boom via a rotating tang with an eye(flange really) that's screwed into the boom. After I raise the sail, I unhook the boom from the backstay wire, adjust the traveler line for the wind conditions, and off I go. It's handy when I lowering the sail single handed, as the boom hangs clean and straight, making folding the mainsail over it easier. The rope traveler is a familiar thing to me as my previous boat (LASER) had a similar setup and I an quite used to it. I may eventually rig a real traveler on the aft rail, but that will involve bridging the tiller arm. Added to that is the fact that the tiller arm will need to be re-hinged further in to allow it to swing up and out of the way when not in use. The steel track traveler won't allow the current tiller arm (which is hinged at the rudder) to swing upwards. So try a line for now. It beats sweating about the backstay. PS: Just a thought, perhaps the O'Day folks did that backstay-mainsheet arragnement for a reason. Perhaps as the wind increases, the pull of the mainsheet on the backstay increases the tension on the backstay and mast rig, moving the center of effort (wind) aft. Any comments Justin?
Hello, Yes, the mainsheet attachment is a bit odd. I have a 1979 22 footer, but it came with a neat traveler setup that you can easily make. The previous owner set up the mainsheet block attached to the boat via a sturdy line that's run port to starboard (over the tiller arm) between the aft cleats. The traveler line is adjustable and allows the block to slide. It does clutter up the cleat however which makes attaching docking lines a tad tricky. ( I'm on a mooring so it doesn't matter much to me.) The little wire that used to hold the mainsheet block now acts as a handy boom crutch. When I am not under sail, the boom hangs off the back stay inert with a small snap shackle attached to the end of that little wire. The snap shackle attaches to the end of the boom via a rotating tang with an eye(flange really) that's screwed into the boom. After I raise the sail, I unhook the boom from the backstay wire, adjust the traveler line for the wind conditions, and off I go. It's handy when I lowering the sail single handed, as the boom hangs clean and straight, making folding the mainsail over it easier. The rope traveler is a familiar thing to me as my previous boat (LASER) had a similar setup and I an quite used to it. I may eventually rig a real traveler on the aft rail, but that will involve bridging the tiller arm. Added to that is the fact that the tiller arm will need to be re-hinged further in to allow it to swing up and out of the way when not in use. The steel track traveler won't allow the current tiller arm (which is hinged at the rudder) to swing upwards. So try a line for now. It beats sweating about the backstay. PS: Just a thought, perhaps the O'Day folks did that backstay-mainsheet arragnement for a reason. Perhaps as the wind increases, the pull of the mainsheet on the backstay increases the tension on the backstay and mast rig, moving the center of effort (wind) aft. Any comments Justin?
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Rob
ODay 22 mainsheet attachment
My 73 '22 has a double block on the boom, a single block on the starboard coaming and a double shiv fiddle block with a cam cleat on the port side. The coaming blocks are mounted to through-bolted pad eyes. A 5/16 line is roved (riven?) through the blocks starting at the boom as the dead end. This works well and is strong but there is no adjustment to the traveler.
My 73 '22 has a double block on the boom, a single block on the starboard coaming and a double shiv fiddle block with a cam cleat on the port side. The coaming blocks are mounted to through-bolted pad eyes. A 5/16 line is roved (riven?) through the blocks starting at the boom as the dead end. This works well and is strong but there is no adjustment to the traveler.
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JOHN KING
BACKSTAY MAINSHEET
i ALSO WONDERED ABOUT THE ATTATCHMENT OF THE MAINSHEET TO THE BACKSTAY. I DECIDED THAT THIS WAS A "POOR MANS" BACKSTAY TENSIONING DEVICE, THE MAINSHEET IS CONNECTED VIA A TRIANGULAR CHAINPLATE THAT TIGHTENS THE BACKSTAY, AND THEREFOR THE HEADSTAY WHEN THE BOAT IS SAILED TO WINDWARD WITH THE SAIL PULLED IN HARD. THIS FLATTENS THE JIB NICELY. I HAVE NOT EXPERIMENTED MUCH WITH IT , BUT I MIGHT THI YEAR
i ALSO WONDERED ABOUT THE ATTATCHMENT OF THE MAINSHEET TO THE BACKSTAY. I DECIDED THAT THIS WAS A "POOR MANS" BACKSTAY TENSIONING DEVICE, THE MAINSHEET IS CONNECTED VIA A TRIANGULAR CHAINPLATE THAT TIGHTENS THE BACKSTAY, AND THEREFOR THE HEADSTAY WHEN THE BOAT IS SAILED TO WINDWARD WITH THE SAIL PULLED IN HARD. THIS FLATTENS THE JIB NICELY. I HAVE NOT EXPERIMENTED MUCH WITH IT , BUT I MIGHT THI YEAR
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Scott Shaw
Put a traveler on it!!!!
Hey we have the same model boat and the same last name. I installed a traveler on my 79 22 and I love it. I bought t-track, it was the smaller width I think an inch, I can't remember, but racing style with more set screw holes and a genoa like car with spring set screw. I made a steel brace the same size and length (make sure you use some kind of gasket because of dissimilar metals) and bolted both to the seats. The mainsheet block attatches to the car. It works great, its strong, its light enough too. Draw backs...takes two people, lots of time, and there is a pesky glassed in wall and foam in your way. Tiller must be raised sometimes. Be creative youll figure it out
Hey we have the same model boat and the same last name. I installed a traveler on my 79 22 and I love it. I bought t-track, it was the smaller width I think an inch, I can't remember, but racing style with more set screw holes and a genoa like car with spring set screw. I made a steel brace the same size and length (make sure you use some kind of gasket because of dissimilar metals) and bolted both to the seats. The mainsheet block attatches to the car. It works great, its strong, its light enough too. Draw backs...takes two people, lots of time, and there is a pesky glassed in wall and foam in your way. Tiller must be raised sometimes. Be creative youll figure it out
P
Pat Shanklin
Traveler vs Vang
MAYBE ORIGINAL IS OK!...I also thaught the mainsheet attachment at the backstay diamond plate was not good at first but after several years of use I think it's a pretty cool idea. Here's why. (the long version) I often sail with freinds and family with children. The cockpit really gets crowded with just three or four crew. I almost always let anyone who has not sailed befor enjoy the thrill of sailing the boat. I hang out behind them at the quarter to coach the green helmsman, watch the wind and handle the main sheet. The position of the cam cleat on the backstay alows for easy and positive control of the mainsail on either tack and its out of the way of little fingers. (I worry about kids around winches, travelers, blocks and cleats). When we're washing windows and a really big puff comes along I can quickly spill some air. I could find that mainsheet blindfolded. The block is completely out of the way of crew, the tiller, and any floatsom moving around in the cockpit. So those are my thoughts and of course I could be all wrong about this. TRAVELING MAN... I really like the sound of Scotts' traveler system solution. It sounds simple and out of the way. Scott, I wondered if you mounted the T-track on the most aft portion of the cockpit seats?...What material did you use to bridge the cockpit and stiffen the track?... Do you lift the tiller behind the mainsheet when moving the car?... On a beam or broad reach does the mainsheet bear on the lifelines since the sheeting angle is much lower?...Your humorous remarks about life in the lazzarett are all too familiar...don't try this in August in the South. SOUP IT UP!...I also often sail single handed or with one crew. This is when I want better performance I like to keep it in the groove. I use a 12' 1/4" line tied off at boom end, through an eye at the stanchion base, through the eye at the boom and tied off with a slip knot. There is no cleat. (poor mans vang). It does a good job of shaping the main but it could use some improvement. For a little better performance a vang/preventer on a boom claw would give better control on most points of sail... ROPE-A-DOPE...The rope traveler idea is A good one and definately worth experimenting with. A question for Stu... how is this rope traveler adjustable? I couldn't figure that one out. OTHER STUFF.. Controlling the jib and main luff with a downhaul or cunningham is equally important and inexpensive at the sail or to the coach roof. THE O'DAY WAY...I really like the simple straight forward approach of the O'day 22. (I'm a big fan of Larry and Lin) It would be great to see some of your sail control systems and other stuff on the projects page or in email...pshanklin@aol.com
MAYBE ORIGINAL IS OK!...I also thaught the mainsheet attachment at the backstay diamond plate was not good at first but after several years of use I think it's a pretty cool idea. Here's why. (the long version) I often sail with freinds and family with children. The cockpit really gets crowded with just three or four crew. I almost always let anyone who has not sailed befor enjoy the thrill of sailing the boat. I hang out behind them at the quarter to coach the green helmsman, watch the wind and handle the main sheet. The position of the cam cleat on the backstay alows for easy and positive control of the mainsail on either tack and its out of the way of little fingers. (I worry about kids around winches, travelers, blocks and cleats). When we're washing windows and a really big puff comes along I can quickly spill some air. I could find that mainsheet blindfolded. The block is completely out of the way of crew, the tiller, and any floatsom moving around in the cockpit. So those are my thoughts and of course I could be all wrong about this. TRAVELING MAN... I really like the sound of Scotts' traveler system solution. It sounds simple and out of the way. Scott, I wondered if you mounted the T-track on the most aft portion of the cockpit seats?...What material did you use to bridge the cockpit and stiffen the track?... Do you lift the tiller behind the mainsheet when moving the car?... On a beam or broad reach does the mainsheet bear on the lifelines since the sheeting angle is much lower?...Your humorous remarks about life in the lazzarett are all too familiar...don't try this in August in the South. SOUP IT UP!...I also often sail single handed or with one crew. This is when I want better performance I like to keep it in the groove. I use a 12' 1/4" line tied off at boom end, through an eye at the stanchion base, through the eye at the boom and tied off with a slip knot. There is no cleat. (poor mans vang). It does a good job of shaping the main but it could use some improvement. For a little better performance a vang/preventer on a boom claw would give better control on most points of sail... ROPE-A-DOPE...The rope traveler idea is A good one and definately worth experimenting with. A question for Stu... how is this rope traveler adjustable? I couldn't figure that one out. OTHER STUFF.. Controlling the jib and main luff with a downhaul or cunningham is equally important and inexpensive at the sail or to the coach roof. THE O'DAY WAY...I really like the simple straight forward approach of the O'day 22. (I'm a big fan of Larry and Lin) It would be great to see some of your sail control systems and other stuff on the projects page or in email...pshanklin@aol.com
S
Stu Timm
Answer to Pat's question
Hi Pat, The rope traveler is a thing that my previous boat (Laser One) had and that came with my O'Day 22, so i'm sort of used to it. I tie one and of the traveler line with a figure eight stopper knot and feed it through the port cleat on the transom. (it really doesn't matter if it's port or starboard). The line feeds through the main block pulley and is led over the tiller (that's important) and tied to the other cleat with a simple cleat hitch. To slacken the traveler, I just undo the knot on the other cleat and pay the line out to my satisfaction, then cleat it down. The downside is that there's very little capability to control the sideways travel of the mainsheet block on the traveler. On reaches, I tighten the traveler 100% and that keeps the mainsheet block in place to some degree. The other downside is that both cleats are occupied by lines most of the time. I moor my boat so I rarely need the aft cleats. But for those who dock their boat in a slip, this may be a problem. Nothing beats a traveler car and track for absolute control. But then again, it's an O'Day 22, not a J-22. I hope that helps! Regards, Stu Timm Karakahl 1979 O'Day 22
Hi Pat, The rope traveler is a thing that my previous boat (Laser One) had and that came with my O'Day 22, so i'm sort of used to it. I tie one and of the traveler line with a figure eight stopper knot and feed it through the port cleat on the transom. (it really doesn't matter if it's port or starboard). The line feeds through the main block pulley and is led over the tiller (that's important) and tied to the other cleat with a simple cleat hitch. To slacken the traveler, I just undo the knot on the other cleat and pay the line out to my satisfaction, then cleat it down. The downside is that there's very little capability to control the sideways travel of the mainsheet block on the traveler. On reaches, I tighten the traveler 100% and that keeps the mainsheet block in place to some degree. The other downside is that both cleats are occupied by lines most of the time. I moor my boat so I rarely need the aft cleats. But for those who dock their boat in a slip, this may be a problem. Nothing beats a traveler car and track for absolute control. But then again, it's an O'Day 22, not a J-22. I hope that helps! Regards, Stu Timm Karakahl 1979 O'Day 22
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