While out the wind (true) jumped from a comfortable 12 kts to staedy 18-20 with gusts to 25. As I reefed, my one crew (in-experienced brother-in-law) had trouble holdind into the wind. Anyway, has I reefed (single line system with block on th luff and the line running through the boom to the leech), the luff edge pulled tight to the boom, but the leech was still 2' off the boom. There was some pressure on the main (brother in law). My question is: To get good sail shape, should I be raisng the boom to meet the leech? Or is the reefing line out of adjustment? I checkedthe archives but couldnt find my answer.
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Hi Bob, I'm not sure how the reef on your
boat is rigged, but I would guess that it is your reef lines out of adjustment. You should not have to raise the boom to make reef adjustment. On our P42 the reef lines pull equally on the luff and leech. Terry
boat is rigged, but I would guess that it is your reef lines out of adjustment. You should not have to raise the boom to make reef adjustment. On our P42 the reef lines pull equally on the luff and leech. Terry
Single line reef
With this type of reefing system all you needed to do was keep winching on the reefing line while letting out mainsail halyard as needed. Also make sure that the mainsheet is eased off enough so the main has no presure to cause added resistance. Andy Hansom Hunter 380
With this type of reefing system all you needed to do was keep winching on the reefing line while letting out mainsail halyard as needed. Also make sure that the mainsheet is eased off enough so the main has no presure to cause added resistance. Andy Hansom Hunter 380
Tip for Reefing 376
Bob, When you lower the mainsail make sure you only lower it just as far as the block on the luff is about 6" above the boom and then cleat the halyard off. (A felt tip mark on the halyard is a good idea). This will ensure that this block does not get dragged into the small loop on the mast as this will bend the loop and also make the reefing line difficult to get in. Then just pull all the slack in on the reefing line and wind the rest on the winch. Remember to ease the mainsheet whilst all this is going on. A slightly better sail shape may be achieved with a little more winding on the halyard again. Not to worry if the clew is not on the boom by up to a foot as the majority of the reef is out of the wind. Good sailing in 2003.
Bob, When you lower the mainsail make sure you only lower it just as far as the block on the luff is about 6" above the boom and then cleat the halyard off. (A felt tip mark on the halyard is a good idea). This will ensure that this block does not get dragged into the small loop on the mast as this will bend the loop and also make the reefing line difficult to get in. Then just pull all the slack in on the reefing line and wind the rest on the winch. Remember to ease the mainsheet whilst all this is going on. A slightly better sail shape may be achieved with a little more winding on the halyard again. Not to worry if the clew is not on the boom by up to a foot as the majority of the reef is out of the wind. Good sailing in 2003.
Reefline adjustment 101
Assuming that you are not the first owner and have no easy way of finding out whether all the rigging, sails and deck hardware are original or how they were meant to be used together, you may want to start from scratch on a nice windless day at the dock. (Step 1) Hoist the full main all the way up (with reefing lines, boomvang and mainsheet released plus traveler centered); check that the luff is tight and not hung up anywhere; now take the slack out of the mainsheet until the leech is tight as well (after releasing any leech cords) and then tighten up the outhaul. Provided there are no Dutchman flaking lines or topping lifts hung up or a hard boomvang sitting too high, the full main should now be nice and flat like a blade with the belly of the draft probably no deeper than 1-2 ft, depending upon the age of the sail, and no major diagonal creases across the sail. (If you happen to have an arch that is holding up the boom before the main becomes nice and flat it may be time to talk to a sailmaker). (Step 2) Stand back and look at the boom; is it sitting nearly horizontal and is the end high enough up to make the cockpit safe? If the boom is sitting too low the sail may have to be recut. (3) If boom position and full sail set look fine, use the opportunity to adjust the Dutchman flaking system according to the manufacturer's specifications. Now check the 1st and 2nd reef: the rows of cringles should nicely parallel the boom (or rather the foot of the sail). If they don't; again talk to your sailmaker. (4) Put a bit of slack in the mainsheet, make sure the hard boomvang, arch and/or topping lift are holding up the boom (so it cannot come crashing all the way down) and release the main halyard a couple of feet while cranking in on the first reefline. Repeat this until the first reef is all the way down on the boom. (If only the new tack or the new clew gets down far enough while the other side of the foot remains loose the way the two reefing lines pulling down the sail are coupled to the one line led to the cockpit needs to be readjusted.) When the reef is in tight and the sail is nicely flattened again you should mark both the reef line and the main halyard at the cam cleats with a single broad band using a water-resistant felt marker. You may also want to take the slack out of the second reef line and mark it as well with a single band. (5) now repeat everything for the second reef and mark the second reef line as well as the main halyard with a double band. That's all there is to it. Time taken at the dock to check, adjust and mark the mainsail control lines before sailing out again will pay off handsomely later!! Have fun! Flying Dutchman "Rivendel II" (Legend 43, hull #1) This
Assuming that you are not the first owner and have no easy way of finding out whether all the rigging, sails and deck hardware are original or how they were meant to be used together, you may want to start from scratch on a nice windless day at the dock. (Step 1) Hoist the full main all the way up (with reefing lines, boomvang and mainsheet released plus traveler centered); check that the luff is tight and not hung up anywhere; now take the slack out of the mainsheet until the leech is tight as well (after releasing any leech cords) and then tighten up the outhaul. Provided there are no Dutchman flaking lines or topping lifts hung up or a hard boomvang sitting too high, the full main should now be nice and flat like a blade with the belly of the draft probably no deeper than 1-2 ft, depending upon the age of the sail, and no major diagonal creases across the sail. (If you happen to have an arch that is holding up the boom before the main becomes nice and flat it may be time to talk to a sailmaker). (Step 2) Stand back and look at the boom; is it sitting nearly horizontal and is the end high enough up to make the cockpit safe? If the boom is sitting too low the sail may have to be recut. (3) If boom position and full sail set look fine, use the opportunity to adjust the Dutchman flaking system according to the manufacturer's specifications. Now check the 1st and 2nd reef: the rows of cringles should nicely parallel the boom (or rather the foot of the sail). If they don't; again talk to your sailmaker. (4) Put a bit of slack in the mainsheet, make sure the hard boomvang, arch and/or topping lift are holding up the boom (so it cannot come crashing all the way down) and release the main halyard a couple of feet while cranking in on the first reefline. Repeat this until the first reef is all the way down on the boom. (If only the new tack or the new clew gets down far enough while the other side of the foot remains loose the way the two reefing lines pulling down the sail are coupled to the one line led to the cockpit needs to be readjusted.) When the reef is in tight and the sail is nicely flattened again you should mark both the reef line and the main halyard at the cam cleats with a single broad band using a water-resistant felt marker. You may also want to take the slack out of the second reef line and mark it as well with a single band. (5) now repeat everything for the second reef and mark the second reef line as well as the main halyard with a double band. That's all there is to it. Time taken at the dock to check, adjust and mark the mainsail control lines before sailing out again will pay off handsomely later!! Have fun! Flying Dutchman "Rivendel II" (Legend 43, hull #1) This
What we learned on our 376
At first we had the same problem, tried to solve it by pulling the reefing line "harder" to remove the extra luff. Ended up bending and having to replace the loop at the mast. 1. When you are already overpowered and need to reef start up the engine and point directly into the wind. 2. Ease the mainsheet and vang 3. Drop the main halyard until the block just hit the loop on the mast (mark it for next time) 4. Snug in the reefing line 5. Fall off, kill the engine and adjust the sail. Russell
At first we had the same problem, tried to solve it by pulling the reefing line "harder" to remove the extra luff. Ended up bending and having to replace the loop at the mast. 1. When you are already overpowered and need to reef start up the engine and point directly into the wind. 2. Ease the mainsheet and vang 3. Drop the main halyard until the block just hit the loop on the mast (mark it for next time) 4. Snug in the reefing line 5. Fall off, kill the engine and adjust the sail. Russell
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