Main sheet

[rose8878]

On my 1985 30', my main sheet run from the boom blocks to the mast through a block down to a block at the mast base and then through a deck organizer and then through a jam cleat on the starboard side of the cabin deck. I think it is the original setup but it seems more complicated than it needs to be.
The main sheet has to go through a lot of different things each contributing some amount of friction.
Do most people use this system or have you found a better way to do this?
I almost think a fiddler block with a jam cleat at the traveler would work or would that be too hard to control? Just wondering.....

 

[Stu Jackson]

If you don't have a dodger, then yes, you're right.

 

[rose8878]

I don't have a dodger.

 

[mortyd]

i have an aftermarket garhauer mainsheet and traveler which work like a dream compared to the factory junk.

 

[rose8878]

Thanks Mortyd. Any chance of a photo??

 

[mortyd]

no photo, but mark and guido at garhauer are among the most helpful of folk. or, mabe check garhauer's website. for a catalina owner this is almost required knowledge.

 

[Meriachee]

Our search for a better system led to Guido at Garhauer making a rather nice 3:1/6:1 block. There's less blocks, and the 6:1 adjustment allows exceptional mainsail trim and has yet to require the use of a winch. This setup uses the modified factory setup, except it does not use the routing to the mast base and back to a clutch.

https://meriachee.wordpress.com/2014/08/01/archimedes-palimpsest/

 

[rose8878]

That looks and makes sense. Thanks. I need to talk to Guido.

 

[Bob S]

I bought the Garhauer set up a few seasons ago and would do it again. They sent this schematic:

 

[Jackdaw]

Our search for a better system led to Guido at Garhauer making a rather nice 3:1/6:1 block. There's less blocks, and the 6:1 adjustment allows exceptional mainsail trim and has yet to require the use of a winch. This setup uses the modified factory setup, except it does not use the routing to the mast base and back to a clutch.

https://meriachee.wordpress.com/2014/08/01/archimedes-palimpsest/

Nice setup. We use two-speed mains on both our boats; our 260 has a 3:1/6:1 mainsheet setup very similar to yours. But I would forgo the endless line. The spice creates a 'bump' that does not like to go through the blocks as easily; and if you put a mark on the sheet at mid-point, it is very easy to get into the habit of re-centering the sheet.

 

[Meriachee]

Nice setup. We use two-speed mains on both our boats; our 260 has a 3:1/6:1 mainsheet setup very similar to yours. But I would forgo the endless line. The spice creates a 'bump' that does not like to go through the blocks as easily; and if you put a mark on the sheet at mid-point, it is very easy to get into the habit of re-centering the sheet.

No bump. I got a fantastic little tool with the Ronstan furler for making butt splices, and it works like a dream. There isn't any whipping in it, and through an entire summer it has yet to show any signs of separation. The 1/4" line needs to have a strand taken out of the cover, but the larger sizes do not.
The downside to endless loops are they seem to have an affinity to get wrapped up on anything, and everything - a totally unforeseen scenario

 

[Jackdaw]

No bump. I got a fantastic little tool with the Ronstan furler for making butt splices, and it works like a dream. There isn't any whipping in it, and through an entire summer it has yet to show any signs of separation. The 1/4" line needs to have a strand taken out of the cover, but the larger sizes do not.
The downside to endless loops are they seem to have an affinity to get wrapped up on anything, and everything - a totally unforeseen scenario

Cool. Would be interested to know more about that tool and the spice.

 

[Meriachee]

My pleasure.
Here is the tool:
http://www.ronstan.us/marine5/product.asp?prodno=RFSPLICE-1

Details attached.
Not noted on the sheet, and found through trial and error is that the tool will deform easily, DO NOT force it. Once deformed, it will not work properly, it won't grip the line. The tail of the line can be inserted to the end at about a 60 degree angle, and trimmed like a haircut after the tool. This is the only way that you'll get some line to pull through, but shaved properly, the line will go through like butter. Not tape, no screwing around. This is the easiest splice on the planet to do, it takes about 10 minutes. Really.

Attached is a quick drawing of what the trimmed line looks like. You can trim it right past the tool, leaving just enough in there to pull through.

 

[Jackdaw]

My pleasure.
Here is the tool:
http://www.ronstan.us/marine5/product.asp?prodno=RFSPLICE-1

Details attached.
Not noted on the sheet, and found through trial and error is that the tool will deform easily, DO NOT force it. Once deformed, it will not work properly, it won't grip the line. The tail of the line can be inserted to the end at about a 60 degree angle, and trimmed like a haircut after the tool. This is the only way that you'll get some line to pull through, but shaved properly, the line will go through like butter. Not tape, no screwing around. This is the easiest splice on the planet to do, it takes about 10 minutes. Really.

Attached is a quick drawing of what the trimmed line looks like. You can trim it right past the tool, leaving just enough in there to pull through.

Ah gotcha. Clever, but I personally would be careful where you used this. It creates a cover-to-cover spice, with none of the much stronger core in the spice area. That's why it does not create a bulge. It probably works great for lower-load furling lines, but I'd worry about how much of the original line strength remains after the slicing.

 

[Meriachee]

It's intended for continuous furling, but it worked great for the mainsheet, and I agree completely with the load issue.
Adding a couple of steps to that instruction would allow a shaved core to be put thorough in reverse, but the issue would still remain, unless it were stitched, and even that wouldn't deliver the same load bearing strength as a contiguous line, but for our little boats, it seems to work great.

 

[Jackdaw]

It's intended for continuous furling, but it worked great for the mainsheet, and I agree completely with the load issue.
Adding a couple of steps to that instruction would allow a shaved core to be put thorough in reverse, but the issue would still remain, unless it were stitched, and even that wouldn't deliver the same load bearing strength as a contiguous line, but for our little boats, it seems to work great.

Yea I figured you had probably thought about it, I only mentioned it because the general readership might not and assume its good/safe to near the rated strength of a line.

 

[Meriachee]

Absolutely. As with ANY splice, there is much more to consider beyond looking good, and if one were to come apart under load, it would probably do so without any warning at all, and at the most inopportune time.

 

[dziedzicmj]

I have the same set-up as Meriachee, minus the splice. No issue with two ends. I never run out of one of the ends.

The 6:1/3:1 is better (IMHO), because if you go for a single speed (6:1), you end up with plenty of line and it might be inconvenient for things like a (controlled) gybe.

It won't work with a dodger