Hi. My main sheet twists and prevents it from moving through the blocks. I've had to remove it and trail it astern off a cleat while underway, looking like I'm fishing for the proverbial bASS! Has anyone had this problem and/or found a solution? Thanks.
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Are you coiling this line wrong
I often see see people coiling there running rigging in loops rather than figure eights. Doing this puts a twist in each loop of the coil which can work it's way up the line and more twists are added the next time the line is coiled. If you coil a line without twisting it would tend to form figure eights not zeros. I had a boat that came with a severely twisted mainsheet but once I worked the twists out of it by working from one end to the next the problem was solved because I did not coil it the way the PO had.
I often see see people coiling there running rigging in loops rather than figure eights. Doing this puts a twist in each loop of the coil which can work it's way up the line and more twists are added the next time the line is coiled. If you coil a line without twisting it would tend to form figure eights not zeros. I had a boat that came with a severely twisted mainsheet but once I worked the twists out of it by working from one end to the next the problem was solved because I did not coil it the way the PO had.
Main Sheet Twist
Just an idea here, but maybe take your main shett line and throw it in the water ! LOL..... I mean, get it all good and wet the lay it all out on the deck, dock, where ever, and let the sun dry it out. Maybe that will relax any "starched twist" the line would have in it. Just an idea...... Hope it might help. Bob Burns=Rascal.
Just an idea here, but maybe take your main shett line and throw it in the water ! LOL..... I mean, get it all good and wet the lay it all out on the deck, dock, where ever, and let the sun dry it out. Maybe that will relax any "starched twist" the line would have in it. Just an idea...... Hope it might help. Bob Burns=Rascal.
Non-swivel Blocks
Sounds like you are using blocks that swivel at the base and wind up the sheet. Blocks do not need to swivel on mail sheet systems. If you use non-swivel blocks the line will not twist. Some blocks can be made to not swivel by fitting the stem into a different (lock-down) position.
Sounds like you are using blocks that swivel at the base and wind up the sheet. Blocks do not need to swivel on mail sheet systems. If you use non-swivel blocks the line will not twist. Some blocks can be made to not swivel by fitting the stem into a different (lock-down) position.
line is 3/8 braided
Hi. Thanks for the info. It's a 3/8 inch line and the blocks do swivel. I've always let the coil form the figure eights on it own when coiling. I'll see if I can prevent the blocks from swiveling, which sounds like it should solve the problem.
Hi. Thanks for the info. It's a 3/8 inch line and the blocks do swivel. I've always let the coil form the figure eights on it own when coiling. I'll see if I can prevent the blocks from swiveling, which sounds like it should solve the problem.
Check for proper routing of the line through the blocks
If you have more than a 2:1 machanical advantage the routing of the line through the blocks is important. begin at the becket and run straight down (up) to the innermost block on the opposite multi-pulley block. then back up to the block in the same position as the one you just left. then back down to the next outermost block or the block which is a) an inner block and b) on the opposite side of where a becket would be. Repeat the above working your way out to the outermost block alernating sidesand make sure all the lines are traveling the same direction when you use the tackel (all pulleys turn the same direction when you view it from one side).
If you have more than a 2:1 machanical advantage the routing of the line through the blocks is important. begin at the becket and run straight down (up) to the innermost block on the opposite multi-pulley block. then back up to the block in the same position as the one you just left. then back down to the next outermost block or the block which is a) an inner block and b) on the opposite side of where a becket would be. Repeat the above working your way out to the outermost block alernating sidesand make sure all the lines are traveling the same direction when you use the tackel (all pulleys turn the same direction when you view it from one side).
Please excuse me if this
is simplistic and forgive me that I don't know the proper terminology, but it also helps to coil from the boom end towards the loose end. Paul
is simplistic and forgive me that I don't know the proper terminology, but it also helps to coil from the boom end towards the loose end. Paul
Salt
Have you rinsed the salt out of it lately? Line can really benefit from the occasional fresh water rinse.
Have you rinsed the salt out of it lately? Line can really benefit from the occasional fresh water rinse.
We used to have some problems with our main sheet
when we had a double block hanging from the boom and a fiddle block/cam cleat/becket assembly on the traveler on deck. The block would twist causing problems so we replaced it with a simple fiddle block off the boom. Fiddle block to fiddle block works much more smoothly and keeps the lines better organized so no twisting. Now the only problem is keeping the long main sheet free to flow through the pulleys which is more related to how we coil it when not in use. I am not sure if this is your problem or related. Picture of fiddle blocks in link:
when we had a double block hanging from the boom and a fiddle block/cam cleat/becket assembly on the traveler on deck. The block would twist causing problems so we replaced it with a simple fiddle block off the boom. Fiddle block to fiddle block works much more smoothly and keeps the lines better organized so no twisting. Now the only problem is keeping the long main sheet free to flow through the pulleys which is more related to how we coil it when not in use. I am not sure if this is your problem or related. Picture of fiddle blocks in link:
I think you are inducing the twist by coiling the line
People (myself included) like to secure a line in a nice coil when we are through using it. That means for every loop of the coil we make, we add a full turn twist to the line (to make the loop lay round). Then when you run the line straight through the blocks it has a twist equal in turns to the number of coils you made when you coiled the whole thing up. If you want to prevent this you should hold each coil firm so it doesn't twist. The resultant coil will have each loop in the form of a figure eight instead of an oval. When this configuration runs through the blocks it comes out straight. Each figure eight coil has one right hand twist and one left hand twist which offset. Have fun Joe S
People (myself included) like to secure a line in a nice coil when we are through using it. That means for every loop of the coil we make, we add a full turn twist to the line (to make the loop lay round). Then when you run the line straight through the blocks it has a twist equal in turns to the number of coils you made when you coiled the whole thing up. If you want to prevent this you should hold each coil firm so it doesn't twist. The resultant coil will have each loop in the form of a figure eight instead of an oval. When this configuration runs through the blocks it comes out straight. Each figure eight coil has one right hand twist and one left hand twist which offset. Have fun Joe S
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