Main Sheet Traveler Arch

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Nate Shawl

I want to restart the discussion started by Sam of Pamlico Sound on 12/23. He wrote "...the main sheet traveler inconviently installed forward in the cockpit blocking access to the companionway." I agree Sam. I would like to move my mainsheet to a traveler on an arch over the hatch. The main question I have is what material to use for the arch. The stainless tubing they use on new Hunters looks good, but that would be too big for the smaller arch needed on a 30 or 33. It seems like a pair of 1 1/2" tubes would be about right. The arch would also be in a good spot to support a dodger and/or cockpit awning. The main sheet loads wouldn't be much greater since the traveler would only be moving forward about one foot. Has anyone made this or a similar conversion?
 
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Ed Schenck

It's been discussed. . .

by a few of the H37C owners but no conclusions yet. Most have simply moved it to forward of the companionway, mid-boom, which was standard on later H37Cs. Mine is still on the bridgedeck. Our idea was for an arch that would be the aft end of the dodger frame. A second tube would be about four inches further back and a stainless plate would be welded in between. The traveller would be attached to this plate and the tubes would have snaps for the bimini and dodger. But I think the problem is that the boom would be too close to the arch. Even if the arch is kept very low there would be very little space for the mainsheet blocks. And Mr. Cherubini has already told us what he thinks about raising the boom! Personally I bought new Garhauer fiddles(4:1) with a cam cleat to try this season. I don't like the mainsheet going forward under the boom and then back to a winch, too little control. But I think I want to keep it end-boom. Finally, there's a company in Michigan that would do the custom arch. You probably know about TIQ: http://www.topsinquality.com/ Let us know what you decide.
 
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Joe Gooch

Easier Solution

The easier solution is to just leave it alone. Any gain you make with a cabin top traveler will be lost in lower head room under the traveler since the 33 has a "walk-in" companionway.
 
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Dan Sheehan AMS

Traveller tracks

The major manufacturers of mainsheet systems make track that is specifically designed to span the compainionway without additional support. If you check Schaefer and Lewmar you can find a suitable setup in thier catalogs. It is usually called a High Beam Track. There are several sizes for different size boats. They also make the end supports to go with the track. Check this out before having something custom made. Dan Sheehan AMS
 
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steven f.

you dont loose headroom

My H33 was converted before I bought her. The system was made locally and made well. Its been on the boat for nearly 15 years with not a single problem. It is simply a metal arch that straddles the companion way hatch. If you open the hatch all the way it is just foward of that point. It's through-bolted to the cabin top. I find this makes living on the boat much easier. I've sailed other H33's without this modification, its well worth it to change this. Due to this I've been able to expand the bimini forward even more, down here in S. FLA we need all the sun covering we can get.
 
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Tim Schaaf

How about this?

What I have been thinking of is an arch directly over the traveller, and moving the traveller there. The load on the boom would be the same, and the traveller could be wider. It would be the aft support for a dodger that would be longer than what is normally possible. It would also be the forward anchor for a bimini/awning. It would no more obstruct the companionway than a normal dodger, and would provide better cockpit shelter. It could even have a "hard" roof. Anyone done this? I have almost sold myself on the idea!
 
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Ed Schenck

Still think it's a problem as. . . .

discussed in the first reply to this thread.
 
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Nate Shawl

Well said Tim Schaaf !

Obviously you know what I was proposing. Steven f. also seems to be in agreement, although his setup is further forward than I was thinking about. Youl'd have to duck to get under it (if the position wasn't moved forward) but I think that would be OK. Maybe Steven can give us some specifics...material sizes, bolt sizes,photos,etc.
 
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