On our Hunter 42P the main sheet rubs and is frayed where it exits the bottom of the Isomat boom (see photo). Is there something missing on my boom that would protect the line, perhaps a pulley inside the boom? What have others with this configuration done to stop the line from rubbing at this point?
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confused
Not knowing how your mainsheet is set up - but you may want to look at your hunter manual .... I bet that your blocks are not set up as originally configured... usually the bitter end of your mainsheet ends up on the traveler... not on the boom... that is where I would start.
Not knowing how your mainsheet is set up - but you may want to look at your hunter manual .... I bet that your blocks are not set up as originally configured... usually the bitter end of your mainsheet ends up on the traveler... not on the boom... that is where I would start.
The main sheet swivel block on our 1991...
P42 connects directly to the boom. The other side of the block connects to the traveler car. No abrasion on ours because of how it is rigged. I am unable to make heads or tails out of the pic you posted, but it does not look like our setup. Our main sheet traveler is mounted on the SS arch. Ditto yours? Terry P.S. Can you post a photo that is further away so that it gives a better perspective?
P42 connects directly to the boom. The other side of the block connects to the traveler car. No abrasion on ours because of how it is rigged. I am unable to make heads or tails out of the pic you posted, but it does not look like our setup. Our main sheet traveler is mounted on the SS arch. Ditto yours? Terry P.S. Can you post a photo that is further away so that it gives a better perspective?
Your main sheet line diameter is too large for the blocks and the entry into the boom. This would mean that you are loosing a significant amount of sheeting power to friction. Also, the forward block hanging from the boom is shackled too low which increases the angle of the main sheet passing through the boom. If you raise that block by using a different shackle, the entry will be much more in line also reducing friction and chafe. As another suggestion, the knot that you are using at the bitter end of the main sheet is reducing the line strength by half. An eye splice would significantly reduce that loss.
Move the shackle
Not a 42 owner so this is free. ;-) Looks like if you moved the forward block to the center bail and the line (reefing??) on the center to the forward bail would solve the problem. I'm thinking you have all the hardware right and it just got put back on wrong. I agree with the "lines to big" comment Alan made. Note that going to a smaller line diameter MAY make it uncomfortable to pull on as 3/8" is the smallest they recommend for "hand hauling" I say 7/16', but then I have big hands.
Not a 42 owner so this is free. ;-) Looks like if you moved the forward block to the center bail and the line (reefing??) on the center to the forward bail would solve the problem. I'm thinking you have all the hardware right and it just got put back on wrong. I agree with the "lines to big" comment Alan made. Note that going to a smaller line diameter MAY make it uncomfortable to pull on as 3/8" is the smallest they recommend for "hand hauling" I say 7/16', but then I have big hands.
Move the shackle
Good idea, Bill, but the shackle will have to be moved to the rear bail. If the center bail is used the main sheet blocks would contact each other and the sail would never be flat enough. Start by dead ending the main sheet on the forward bail then to the car block and then to the aft block/bail. The reef line could use the middle bail.
Good idea, Bill, but the shackle will have to be moved to the rear bail. If the center bail is used the main sheet blocks would contact each other and the sail would never be flat enough. Start by dead ending the main sheet on the forward bail then to the car block and then to the aft block/bail. The reef line could use the middle bail.
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