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Main sheet controls

Feb 16, 2019
5
oday 28 Lake Tahoe
Just bought a 1976 Oday, need to replace the dated main sheet blocks/cam cleat set up. I will be sailing with grandkids and ladies at the helm so want to get the proper block arrangement.

Also, is the correct model of the boat a 272 or a 28 ?

Thanks in advance for responses.
 

JRT

.
Feb 14, 2017
1,821
Catalina 310 211 Lake Guntersville, AL
The O'Day 272 was first made in 1989, so I'm guessing you have a 28.

D&R can help you replace what you have, or you can work with SBO and they can set you up with something newer and more modern.

https://www.drmarine.com/
 
Jul 7, 2004
6,797
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
A 40+ year old boat is bound to have been modified some already. Can you post some pics of what you have and how much you want to spend.
 

Dave Groshong

SBO Staff
Staff member
Jan 25, 2007
1,640
Catalina 22 Seattle
Give me call if you'd like, we offer Garhauer, Harken, Lewmar, Schaefer and Ronstan blocks, I like the Garhauer for value.
877-932-7245 x116
Mon-Fri, 9-3:30 Pacific
I agree with JackDaw, 4:1 is good for that boat.
 
Aug 1, 2011
3,835
Catalina 270 255 Wabamun. Welcome to the marina
Assuming that the grandkids are capable of dealing with a 4:1 if that's part of the intent. If they're little, then not likely, and upping the ratio may make for a more inclusive experience, without any kind of significant cost.
 
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May 17, 2004
2,600
Beneteau Oceanis 37 LE Havre de Grace
Another consideration with the 28 is the location of the traveler. Many came with the traveler on the bridgedeck, just aft of the companionway. Having it there gives relatively good leverage, but means that any kind of block and tackle arrangement will become a trip hazard going through the companionway. If it is up above the companionway then you have less leverage, so you may need a higher mechanical advantage, but you have as much room as you need for it.
 
Jun 5, 2010
990
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
Look on eBay! I buy (and sell) oodles of used Schaefer blocks on eBay all the time. Great savings. Look at boat breakers too, like N and J in Wisconsin (Nick; a really good guy; he has loads of stuff). You will want a Schaefer 05-25 (fiddle) for the top and a 05-75 for the bottom (fiddle w/cam cleat/becket/swivel), rated at 7/16" line and 1500 lbs. These are as common as anything else anywhere. If you spend over $100 for the pair you got a poor deal. A set of new ones will set you back over $450.

Don't waste your money on snap shackles - not necessary or useful on a mainsheet. Only one has to have a swivel - typically the lower one; but some will insist it should be the upper one.

I'm assuming you have a traveler; if you don't have, you should have. And it should be in the cockpit, where it belongs, located at least 3/4 of the boom's length back from the gooseneck. Cabintop-mounted travelers provide less leverage (requiring more arm strength from you), impose a horrible load on the (cored) cabintop structure, and completely preclude the option of having a cam cleat on the lower block, so it has to be led somewhere else (unless you don't mind standing up to reach over the companionway to trim it each time).

Visit a good sailboat rigger and have double-braided low-stretch line spliced onto the lower fiddle's becket. I like my Yale cordage; but, again, browse the Web and please don't assume Sta-Set X at WM is the only thing around - I am not a fan of that line at all. Sampson XLS is still the gold standard for performing-cruising boats of a certain vintage. And you can pick any color. (About 1.00/foot. You'll need about 44-48 ft.)

One VERY cool trick is to rig the mainsheet purchase to have 'fine' and 'coarse' trim options. It'll require a cabintop winch, a halyard stopper near it, a cheek block on the deck, and two extra single blocks. Reeve the sheetline as usual, starting at the cam cleat, but instead of bringing the last end down to the becket, run it forward, along the underside of the boom, through the vang bail, to one block under the front of the boom, then down to the other one at the base of the mast (on center), then through the cheek block and back to the winch. Cleat it at the stopper and trim using the cam cleat on the traveler. When things get rough, cleat it there and trim it at the winch. Your boat is at just the right size to take advantage of this with '05'-series blocks and 4:1 purchase. We had this arrangement on our Raider 33 but with 6:1 (using then-brand-new very trick Harken ball bearing triples) and it worked terrifically.:dancing:

But with just the two fiddles you'll have a durable system that will work just fine for you. Just don't understimate the values of used hardware! You sail a used boat now; don't you? :wink:
 
Last edited:
Aug 1, 2011
3,835
Catalina 270 255 Wabamun. Welcome to the marina
Why would you burn up a winch, a bunch more hardware on the deck and a cleat of some sort when you can do 3:1 or 6:1 with one block and the existing setup? I’m confused.
 
May 17, 2004
2,600
Beneteau Oceanis 37 LE Havre de Grace
Why would you burn up a winch, a bunch more hardware on the deck and a cleat of some sort when you can do 3:1 or 6:1 with one block and the existing setup? I’m confused.
Agree. That's how I've always seen it done - just one block near the inside end of the sheet. And while it is a nice arrangement it would be a pretty unusual upgrade for an Oday 28.
 
Nov 8, 2010
10,957
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Why would you burn up a winch, a bunch more hardware on the deck and a cleat of some sort when you can do 3:1 or 6:1 with one block and the existing setup? I’m confused.
What he is describes is not a true fine/course system, its a double ended system with a 4:1 control at the traveler and a 16:1 (winch) at the companionway.

A true fine/course will be one of two things:
A double sheet / double speed mainsheet block, typically 3:1/6:1. Pull both at the same time for 3:1. Pull one for 6:1
A 4:1 fine tune at the terminating end of the 4 or 6 :1 sheet, giving 16 or 24:1 on the fine.