Hi everyone. I discovered today that I'm going to have to replace the main prop strut on my Islander Bahama 30.The sites I've found that sell these ask for the angle and aft drop? In order to check this I'd have to haul out, which I will need to do for the replacement. So I'm trying to avoid two haul outs. Any Islander 30 owners out there or others with info regarding this? Thanks!
Main prop strut
- Thread starter Boatjoc
- Start date
Maybe you could go for a short swim and get that information or hire a diver? I'm not trying to be a jerk, just trying to get the conversation going.
Thanks for the suggestion. It might come to that, but then I'd have the cost of a wet suit! This water is way too cold for me.
I forgot about the cool water temps on the west coast. I got in the lake here for the first time this year last week. I'll probably spend some time scrubbing the bottom this weekend.
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Or you could hire one of the hundreds of local hull divers. My guess is you could get one to have a look at your strut for fifty bucks or less. Probably include pix and/or video too.
Which begs the question: In San Diego, boat bottoms need to be cleaned every 3-4 weeks. Why do you not already have a diver?
That's an obvious option, but I think it would be easier to get precise measurements if everything was done out of the water. As an example, the difference in aft drop of the strut between two struts offered is 1/8". I don't think that could be determined looking at a pic or vid. I did get a PM from a guy with the same boat that's on the hard. Hopefully he can come thru for me. But thank you.Or you could hire one of the hundreds of local hull divers. My guess is you could get one to have a look at your strut for fifty bucks or less. Probably include pix and/or video too.
Which begs the question: In San Diego, boat bottoms need to be cleaned every 3-4 weeks. Why do you not already have a diver?
Only trailer sailor experience here but I'm just curious how did you discover that the prop strut needed to be replaced? (without measuring it)
I just recently bought the boat after a haul out and survey. I wasn't able to be there with the surveyor but I read his report and saw the pics, but he didn't get any measurements of the strut. The surveyor said he could tap it firmly with a small hammer and it would snap in half. So knowing that, I want this replaced asap. I want to replace the thru hull fittings and seacocks anyway, so I'll just schedule another haul out when I'm ready and get the correct measurements then and hopefully it won't take forever to get the replacement.
By the way, just to stir the pot of controversy and begin another discussion, I plan to replace the thru hulls and seacocks with Marelon composite parts. No galvanic corrosion and tons of money cheaper. All of the regulating entities have signed off on this. Check out Forespar.com
By the way, just to stir the pot of controversy and begin another discussion, I plan to replace the thru hulls and seacocks with Marelon composite parts. No galvanic corrosion and tons of money cheaper. All of the regulating entities have signed off on this. Check out Forespar.com
I installed four new thru hulls and the series 93 in-line ball valves the spring of 2019.
Then in the spring of 2021 I installed a new thru-hull & OEM Series 93 Valve with the King Nut for a new water intake. It felt so much stronger than the in-line ball valves I switched one of the others over to the Series 93 OEM Valve with King Nut.
Next spring I plan to switch out the remaining in-line ball valves with the Series 93 OEM Valve with King Nut.
When installing the new valves I cut backing plates from 1/4" G10 board slightly bigger than the king nut and epoxied into place before installing the valve.
Compared to bronze ball valves the Marelon valves need a bit more oomph to start moving them either open or closed but then they close smoothly. It may just be the additional leverage the larger valve handles give on the bronze valves.
Then in the spring of 2021 I installed a new thru-hull & OEM Series 93 Valve with the King Nut for a new water intake. It felt so much stronger than the in-line ball valves I switched one of the others over to the Series 93 OEM Valve with King Nut.
Next spring I plan to switch out the remaining in-line ball valves with the Series 93 OEM Valve with King Nut.
When installing the new valves I cut backing plates from 1/4" G10 board slightly bigger than the king nut and epoxied into place before installing the valve.
Compared to bronze ball valves the Marelon valves need a bit more oomph to start moving them either open or closed but then they close smoothly. It may just be the additional leverage the larger valve handles give on the bronze valves.
Ward, this is just great info. I definitely like the use of the G10 fiberglass board for the backing material. I called Forespar today to ask if I could drive up and shop there, but that was a no. She recommended I contact West Marine or Marine Exchange here in San Diego if I want to see the product first hand as they carry it. Most of my retirement funds are leaking into West Marine's coffers anyway, so why stop now eh?
Marelon through hulls are hardly new or controversial - a few decades old, proven on blue water boats, and used by several quality production builders.
I called Forespar tech support and they gave me the part # for the valve with flush fit thru hull. They are sold as a unit because they have buttress threads and Forespar doesn't want anyone to buy the parts separately and have mismatched threads.
I then gave the part number to Defender.com who special ordered them for me.
I've found some places do stock the valve with a mushroom head.
I then gave the part number to Defender.com who special ordered them for me.
I've found some places do stock the valve with a mushroom head.