Has anyone run a main halyard to the cockpit on a c18 or maybe a c22 ? How well does it work and do you have pics? Is it worth doing?
Main halyard to cockpit on a c18
- Thread starter paul4378
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On my Capri 22 I have internal halyards that all run back to the cockpit from the mast. In my case there are sheaves about 4" above the base of the mast; the halyards come out there, back toward the stern at about a 45 degree angle, hit another pair of sheaves mounted on the hatch frame and then run back to spinlock cleats on the cabin top just forward of the jib winches.
Main on the left, jib & spinnaker on the right. Empty slot on the left is for the spinnaker topping lift which I don't use.
Is it worth it? Definitely since nobody has to go on deck to raise the main. Someone has to go up there for the jib, since I use a foil, but if it's too windy for them to be up there we'll just sail with a reefed main anyway.
Personally I wouldn't go with this type of spinlock cleat again. I want something with a bit more positive latch as we've inadvertently dropped the main and jib when someone bumped the cleat and it popped open.
We have a couple of Capri 18's at the lake but I've never noticed how their halyards are rigged. Since it's winter the lake has been drained (flood control) so I can't go look for you.
Main on the left, jib & spinnaker on the right. Empty slot on the left is for the spinnaker topping lift which I don't use.
Is it worth it? Definitely since nobody has to go on deck to raise the main. Someone has to go up there for the jib, since I use a foil, but if it's too windy for them to be up there we'll just sail with a reefed main anyway.
Personally I wouldn't go with this type of spinlock cleat again. I want something with a bit more positive latch as we've inadvertently dropped the main and jib when someone bumped the cleat and it popped open.
We have a couple of Capri 18's at the lake but I've never noticed how their halyards are rigged. Since it's winter the lake has been drained (flood control) so I can't go look for you.
Thanks
Thanks, the spinlock cleats are a little pricey I'm told . It looks like a regular cam cleat would do the trick !
paul
Thanks, the spinlock cleats are a little pricey I'm told . It looks like a regular cam cleat would do the trick !
paul
On my Capri 22 I have internal halyards that all run back to the cockpit from the mast. In my case there are sheaves about 4" above the base of the mast; the halyards come out there, back toward the stern at about a 45 degree angle, hit another pair of sheaves mounted on the hatch frame and then run back to spinlock cleats on the cabin top just forward of the jib winches.
Main on the left, jib & spinnaker on the right. Empty slot on the left is for the spinnaker topping lift which I don't use.
Is it worth it? Definitely since nobody has to go on deck to raise the main. Someone has to go up there for the jib, since I use a foil, but if it's too windy for them to be up there we'll just sail with a reefed main anyway.
Personally I wouldn't go with this type of spinlock cleat again. I want something with a bit more positive latch as we've inadvertently dropped the main and jib when someone bumped the cleat and it popped open.
We have a couple of Capri 18's at the lake but I've never noticed how their halyards are rigged. Since it's winter the lake has been drained (flood control) so I can't go look for you.
Here are some photos of how I accomplished this on our Capri-18. Now, this was a 97 model, with the factory mast raising system. As you can see in the pictures, I attached eye-nuts to the baby-stay mounts for the mast raising system. I simply took one off a machine screw and turned it around. This brought the line smoothly down, and let it turn to the cockpit. The line was just above the hatch rails. I like things simple, cheap, and effective. I used jam-cleats from Catalina Direct. They match the factory original hardware, and are inexpensive. They work very well with no slipage. As you can see, I had two cleats on each side of the cabin top. The additional cleats are used for single line reefing and mainsail cunningham. Take your time and drill the holes properly, and seal the hole with epoxy to prevent the plywood core from getting wet and causing problems. Go to the WEST Epoxy web site for their instructions on how to seal mounting holes through fiberglass with a wood core. Another thing that I do is use different colored lines for different functions. This way in the heat of the battle, if I have a green-horn onboard, I just tell them to pull on the red line, or loosen the black line. We'll use the proper terms later, plus, it looks cool! The Capri-18 is a fantastic boat, and will take more than you can. Go to my albums section in my profile and you'll see a lot of photos of the boat.
Don
Don
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Thanks Don
Thanks , I'm not sure I would set it up like that because I spend too much time on the front of the boat. Is that a factory bimini ? It looks great
Thanks , I'm not sure I would set it up like that because I spend too much time on the front of the boat. Is that a factory bimini ? It looks great
No, not a factory bimini, from West Marine. The halyards never got in my way, and we had a hank-on genoa. And when the bimini was up, I just went forward through the forward hatch.
Don
Don
Block placement
Hi Don, I got out and started drilling holes when I realized the second hole I drilled ended up in the mast support area which means it did'nt goall the way through the cabin roof . Kind of tricky I now see why you set yours up the way you did . You can't make a right turn with a fixed block to the deck because of that mast support . I did attache a small block to the mast base
paul
Hi Don, I got out and started drilling holes when I realized the second hole I drilled ended up in the mast support area which means it did'nt goall the way through the cabin roof . Kind of tricky I now see why you set yours up the way you did . You can't make a right turn with a fixed block to the deck because of that mast support . I did attache a small block to the mast base
paul
Paul,
My main motivation in the way I led the halyards aft was simplicity and cost. I wanted to use exsiting holes and hardware as much as possible. The Capri-18 is such a GREAT little boat, I wish I could've kept her too!
Don
My main motivation in the way I led the halyards aft was simplicity and cost. I wanted to use exsiting holes and hardware as much as possible. The Capri-18 is such a GREAT little boat, I wish I could've kept her too!
Don
I have had regular cam cleats jam in a thunderstorm micro-burst, though this was on a J22 with a halyard winch, thus a really tight halyard. So. I don't trust the cam for the main halyard. Sailing in a highly variable wind area, I feel that I need to be able to guarantee that the main can be released now. Even though pricey, I have a full-on Lewmar clutch for the halyard. They ALWAYS release.
Spinlock does not guarantee the same result for the PXR cleat. I use PXRs for the control lines (downhaul, C'ham). My C22 Sport has a small coach roof area which is why have the PXRs and clutch - they take up less of my limited space across the boat's beam than a traditional cam cleat would.
A C-18 is smaller, probably less to worry about. I think I'd use a cam cleat on the halyard (normal style or PXR), but I have no experience with that size keel boat.
I also do without a halyard winch, pricey, and again, on my boat it would be hard to mount well due to the limited roof area. I reef on a boom hook and consider the C22 sail to be small enough that the boom downhaul (4:1) is enough for luff tension when reefed. On a larger boat with a longer mainsail luff, friction in the luff slides tends to require a halyard winch to get adequate tension.
My view,
OC
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