Main halyard size?

[DStegs49]

We just adopted an 87 Legend 37. Along with the adoption is a bad habit that we have to correct. Our main does not drop easily when we lower it. I think it will be a simple cure but I need to know the correct size Main Halyard to install to do this. The PO must have raced this boat and the current Main Halyard is .534" diameter. This is greater than the H.O. Groups suggestion of 1/2" for "racing". The size suggested for cruising is 7/16". If we put on the recomended size halyard will it fit correctly in the jaws of the Lewmar 30ST winches, turning blocks, sheaves and rope clutches that are mounted on the cabin top. I have googled specs for the Lewmar 30ST but haven't been able to find the reccomended line size for it.
I also have a problem with the jenny in that it is VERY difficult to furl it in when we are done sailing. I think this might be a similar problem, not with the lines but with the bearings inside the hub for the furler. Are there bearings inside and if so, are they easily replacable.
Not that the boat has been neglected but possibly that the PO has "learned to live with it" as things wore out???
Help or suggest if you can because just sailing with the jib and then having to winch it in isn't the best way to go.

 

[MetricMountie]

Before replacing the halyard you might want to check the condition of the main halyard sheave at the top of the stick. It may be worn to the point that the interior portion of the sheave is completely worn and broken and the halyard is simply sliding over the remainder of the exterior portion supported by the axle.
I speak from experience after two seasons of a similar problem with our 1992, 35.5 Legend. Replaced the sheaves and its smooth as silk now both up and down.

 

[Dave Groshong]

1/2 inch is too big, 7/16 is appropriate. I agree with MetricMountie, check on the condition of the sheaves.

Here's a link to our Rigging Calculator:

http://shop.hunterowners.com/detail-rigging.htm

What brand of furler do you have?

 

[DStegs49]

MM, The Halyard is getting replaced. It is even difficult to pull it through the rope clutch. I do agree though, when I go up to string the new one, I will check the sheeve. I currently only have one main halyard. Other one was off before we got the boat. The one doubles as a topping lift and is still 1/2" but not needing it for sail handling after the new one goes up, will work fine for a topping lift or safety line when I climb it.
DG, Thanks for the link. That is where I found out about the line sizes. I was wondering about dropping down to 3/8" but was concerned about the winch being able to snug that small of line.
Are the sheeves easily replacable while the mast is up?? My concern is being able to do one at a time, or are they on the same axel? I go up with a Mast Mate system and need the halyard up to keep it and me up.
Thanks.

 

[Steve Dion]

Dave:

If you can find a yard with a cherry picker you will be better off having them inspect/replace the sheaves. Depending on the mast head there is a plate that needs to be removed ans there are pins that the sheaves roll on. Sometimes the are shared be the halyard that you would be riding on.

If it were me and one is bad I would replace all of them.

 

[Dave Groshong]

3/8 is certainly strong enough, but does cause problems with some self tailing winches and rope clutches.

 

[MetricMountie]

DS, when we redid the running rig we changed all the halyard and the topping lift out to 7/16 and it works well with out ST winches and clutches. If the cherrypicker is available the sheave switch out is quick and easy. Pull about a foot of your halyards out of the mast at the top and secure them with another short piece of line, there should be two set screws holding the cap plate of the mast to the mast itself. Remove the two screws and you should be able to lift and turn the cap right or left. The sheaves and the pins (axles) they ride on are set in two slots in the mast. They should pull out easily, just repeat the process in reverse to install the new sheaves.

As to replacing the old halyards with new, I just sewed the old to the new, bitter end to bitter end with sail twine and then slowly pulled the new thru the sheaves with the old line. It worked well and took no time at all considering that we did the topping lift, main, jib, spinnaker and spin pole uphaul halyards. Good luck with the project.

 

[MetricMountie]

Forgot to mention that Rig Right should have any replacement parts that you may need for the sheaves.

 

[DStegs49]

Thanks for all your suggestions. I just got back from the boat and did check the sheeves. The one for the main was NOT MOVING. I swapped them out and now the main halyard moves easily with no tension from either the mast head or base. My problem now is the 1/2 halyard doesn't seem to fit the rope clutch. I am going to replace it with a 7/16 and use a 3/8 line for the topping lift. Seems the PO or his predicessor raced and oversized everything. One problem I created now was that one of the sheeves rolled into the mast while I was trying to put them all back in. Think I can get it out with a line with some sticky (glue) on it. (Murphy's Law) Thanks again.

 

[DStegs49]

I am also going to post another question. You guys might have a suggestion there also. On the 37's mast, where are the wires mounted internally? I have to put a couple of cleats and some fold down steps on it and I don't want to have to replace any wires with it.

 

[MetricMountie]

I believe that your wire race is location in the forward part of the mast but I can't be positive, getting old and the memory is fading. If all else fails a trip to the top and a quick peek under the mast cap will tell you where its located or if you know the mast manufacturer, Kenyon, etc. check the net for a manual and it will give you the cross sectional look at the internals.