Mahogany and Ash Cockpit Table

[Sylvain]

I had plans to add a cockpit table and figured I'd make a nice one.
I made it with African mahogany and ash with two leaves using 180 deg hinges.
I "sun conditioned" the wood for about two hours on each side to give a nice golden color to the mahogany instead of the pinkish color when freshly planed.

It has 4 coats of special clear epoxy and probably 6 coats of spar varnish on top.

 

[Richard Bryer]

Nicely done indeed, Sylvain. What did you use for mounting hardware abd where did you buy it? do you have another pic of the hardware or the table set up? Thanks

 

[rardiH36]

Beautiful craftsmanship. Notwithstanding the shear gorgeousness of your cockpit table, it sure beats the little tiny thing that Hunter supplied on my 1980 H36.

I've modified mine only so that it can be easily/quickly removed/attached to/from the pedestal when needed or not. I keep it stored inside when not in use.

One problem with your wonderful table. From your last picture, you've now got to brightwork the cockpit grate so it matches!

 

[Sylvain]

The cockpit grate was/is a trial version.
I used western red cedar in traditional dado joints. I copied the shower grate inside for construction except that I double spaced it in one direction.
It survived the summer. Cedar is light, cheap and easy to maintain.

It would break my heart (and my wallet) to machine this much teak. It's a bit sun stroked but I'll treat it this winter and see how it does next summer.

As for the hinge system, I bought these locking hinges before starting the project but that would have limited the length of the table. Right now, I'll used a post and a hooking system. More on this later.

 

[kloudie1]

Nice work, Sylvain..
Inspirational.. I was going to make mine out of a coupla planks but when I see the way the light wood looks in there, it is where I am going to have to go. My existing one is a vineer on plywood.. after 25 years, the vineer is bubbling and peeling from water getting to it..

 

[Sylvain]

The cockpit grate was/is a trial version.
I used western red cedar in traditional dado joints. I copied the shower grate inside for construction except that I double spaced it in one direction.
It survived the summer. Cedar is light, cheap and easy to maintain.

It would break my heart (and my wallet) to machine this much teak. It's a bit sun stroked but I'll treat it this winter and see how it does next summer.

As for the hinge system, I bought these locking hinges before starting the project but that would have limited the length of the table. Right now, I'll used a post and a hooking system. More on this later.

 

[Ed H]

Very, very nice... When folded down, there is still room to get back to the wheel, (unlike my table). I do not have a cockpit grate... what are the benefits of having one? ED H

 

[jorgefife]

And here I go again: I need to improve on the Mickey Mouse table I made: please let me know:
thichness of the wood
the light colored strips in betwee, are those the ash strips?
Again, what thickness?
I have a "U" shaped SS support which you could use, I have an extra one you could have it free, if you can use it
That is my contribution to your magnificent table
Did you use wood glue to join, or something special?
Any help is appreciated
As for the hinges, any close up, or a name?
Thank you

 

[jorgefife]

Ah, forgot to ask: I have been after a cockpit grate like yours: where did you buy yours, or where do I look for one?

 

[Sylvain]

I used a 1 inch stock African mahogany and planed it. It's probably around 7/8 in.
The white strips are made of ash 1/4 wide.
I used Gorilla Glue but really, it's so well sealed that regular carpenter's glue would have been fine.
Hinges: I'm getting to it. I'm almost decided in a folding post that would rest in one of the groove in the grate.

I made the grate. The cost of a custom teak grate is much too high for me and I don't see why cedar isn't appropriate for this. It's very time consuming to make one of those with the interlocked method and that's also why they cost so much.

Why I made a grate: Water always puddled forward in the cockpit. I filled the area with some plywood bedded in thickened epoxy so that the water flows back to the cockpit drain. I still need to paint this area but the grate covers it for now and it looks better.

 

[rardiH36]

... Why I made a grate: Water always puddled forward in the cockpit ....

This is one of those "go figure" situations. In the construction/layup, how does a boat builder miss something as basic sloping the cockpit floor enough so that all water always runs aft into the scupper drains?

On my 1980 36' cockpit floor, Hunter put in channels to assist the water flow aft. But I guess with years of gravity, the cockpit floor has a bit of concavity rather than flat, so all water doesn't quite make to the scupper drains. But the overall slope is aft so water sits just in the channels ... not on the non-skid cockpit floor.

 

[Ed H]

Yea, mine pools-up in that spot also.... I just sponge it up. Ed H

 

[jorgefife]

Sylvain
So sorry to bother you, but this business of the grate... is it something I could do?
I MUST have one, and I will try to do it myself
Looked up on line, but did not see any site with instructions... what tools do I need?

 

[Sylvain]

I'll take some photos of the process and a few options and get back to you on that. If you have the tools and the time, you can do it.