Magma Magic experience
- Thread starter Tim R.
- Start date
- Status
I agree with tommays, it looks like Spotless Stainless. I have not used the Magma product, but I have used Spotless Stainless and it will produce results on a grill just like the before and after pictures on the Magma website.
I'd love to find out the actual chemical of this product and buy it generically. Spotless Stainless is $30 for 16 oz and this Magma is as low as $13. But I suspect that at either price the markup is huge n over the actual chemical.
Spotless Stainless works very well but needs temperatures over 70 to be the most effective. Below 60, isn't worth the effort IMHO.
I'd love to find out the actual chemical of this product and buy it generically. Spotless Stainless is $30 for 16 oz and this Magma is as low as $13. But I suspect that at either price the markup is huge n over the actual chemical.
Spotless Stainless works very well but needs temperatures over 70 to be the most effective. Below 60, isn't worth the effort IMHO.
Rich,
I know that spotless stainless is a variation of a citric acid passivation. I bought citric acid and mixed with distilled water and tried a little Xanthan gum to thicken it to slow the drying process. I didn't get good results but I tried
. If you find anything in your research let us know.
I know that spotless stainless is a variation of a citric acid passivation. I bought citric acid and mixed with distilled water and tried a little Xanthan gum to thicken it to slow the drying process. I didn't get good results but I tried
. If you find anything in your research let us know.
Was just reading about cleaning stainless steel over at trailersailors.com. Oxalic acid apparently works, and strips off any iron oxide so that the chromium can create the barrier oxidation layer. Bartenders Friend is oxalic based, so maybe these other products are oxalic based. It's probably cheaper to buy a tub of oxalic acid at the Ace hardware store than to buy Bartender's Friend, and the straight acid can be used to clean the waterline and bleach dark water marks out of wood.
Brian
Brian
Please do not use an acid other than Nitric, which you can't really get your hands on, and citric acid, which you can get. There are only two acids allowed by ASTM standards which are suitable for passivating stainless steel, nitric acid and citric acid. Other acids can damge the metal. Oxalic, phosphoric etc. can damage SS but not passivate it.. It leaves the SS worse off then if you did nothing, except that temporarily the rust will be gone. Yes the rust spots often will disappear but they will return faster because you have not passivated the SS and may have even changed the surface by removing certain materials easily attacked by the wrong acids..
Products like Spotless Stainless actually passivate the SS so rust stays away longer. It also does not dull the finish and is actually good for it, not bad for it... The more you use Spotless Stainless the less and less the rust comes back. I have been using it since it first came out and am a HUGE fan. It is worth every penny I pay for it.....
Spotless Stainless is a very, very concentrated citric acid mixed with some other proprietary ingredients. You can likely achieve some results with store bought citric but just not as fast etc... I actually used to soak stuff in Tang, and it worked okay, and was pretty cheap, but Spotless Stainless works better.
- Status