I recently added a macerator pump to the output hose from my holding tank. I posted a photo article on this in the photo section and on my personal sailing web site. On the topside of the deck fitting I can connect a nylon pipe-to-hose adapter, with 12 foot of flexible pool filter hose, to reach the recepticle at RV dump stations. (see the photo.) The problem is with the hose connected it is impossible to screw the nylon adapter into the deck fitting. This means I have to take the hose off and on the adapter each time I hook it up, to pump out the tank,(YUCK). I need to find some sort of 1.5" hose coupling that will allow the nylon adapter to screw in while the hose is held steady. I've looked at West Marine and can't find anything suitable. I'd be greatful for any ideas. Thanks... Brigg
- Status
You need a CAMLOCK
You need to buy a fitting that's quick disconnect...it's called Cam Lock. Most plumbing supplies will have one. Good Luck, Capn' Brent S/V Elena Lua
You need to buy a fitting that's quick disconnect...it's called Cam Lock. Most plumbing supplies will have one. Good Luck, Capn' Brent S/V Elena Lua
Another Alternative
Dear Brigg, I also have a H260 and have experienced the same problem with pumping out my holding tank. Two times I sailed to a marine pump out station and both times it was a failure. For the remainder of the sailing season I used a manual pump and pumped the waste into a 5 gallon gas can and disposed of the waste at home. Unfortunately, this is such an unpleasant task that it doesn't get done as frequently as it should. The result is a stench so bad I have never smelled anything so horrible before. To make things worse, its seems that this stench has permeated into the tank and hoses and now I can't get rid of the odor. What I am in the process of doing this winter is removing the holding tank and removing the hose from the toilet. I will use a new hose to go from the toilet directly into the 5 gallon can which will be kept on the floor of the wet locker. I will enclose the wet locker and sound proof it. This summer, those who use the toilet will pump the waste right into the 5 gallon can. As I have purchased two of these cans my intention is that I will keep one can on the boat and one can at home. When I go down to the boat for a day's sail I will bring a 5 gallon can of fresh water which I will leave on my dock. When I return from my sail I will flush my outboard with about 4 gal's of fresh water and save 1 gal to flush out the toilet and then switch the cans so that I can take the one filled with waste home. I will let you know how things work out. Regards, Bob.
Dear Brigg, I also have a H260 and have experienced the same problem with pumping out my holding tank. Two times I sailed to a marine pump out station and both times it was a failure. For the remainder of the sailing season I used a manual pump and pumped the waste into a 5 gallon gas can and disposed of the waste at home. Unfortunately, this is such an unpleasant task that it doesn't get done as frequently as it should. The result is a stench so bad I have never smelled anything so horrible before. To make things worse, its seems that this stench has permeated into the tank and hoses and now I can't get rid of the odor. What I am in the process of doing this winter is removing the holding tank and removing the hose from the toilet. I will use a new hose to go from the toilet directly into the 5 gallon can which will be kept on the floor of the wet locker. I will enclose the wet locker and sound proof it. This summer, those who use the toilet will pump the waste right into the 5 gallon can. As I have purchased two of these cans my intention is that I will keep one can on the boat and one can at home. When I go down to the boat for a day's sail I will bring a 5 gallon can of fresh water which I will leave on my dock. When I return from my sail I will flush my outboard with about 4 gal's of fresh water and save 1 gal to flush out the toilet and then switch the cans so that I can take the one filled with waste home. I will let you know how things work out. Regards, Bob.
Camloc Quick connects
Check out the wonderful supplier I use everyday...see link below. Next day delivery on almost every item in the catalog.
Check out the wonderful supplier I use everyday...see link below. Next day delivery on almost every item in the catalog.
Oh Bob..noooo!!!
I'm not sure I understand your problem, but there HAS to be a better way to deal with it than your solution! LI Sound is NOT "not discharge"...what kind of 12v power resources do you have? Can your budget stand a $750 investment? If so, the answer may be a treatment device instead of a holding tank.
I'm not sure I understand your problem, but there HAS to be a better way to deal with it than your solution! LI Sound is NOT "not discharge"...what kind of 12v power resources do you have? Can your budget stand a $750 investment? If so, the answer may be a treatment device instead of a holding tank.
Thanks and NO-tanks
Thanks to Brent and Don for the tip on the CAM & GROOVE hose couping idea. I found a local supplier here in Portland and will pick up the couplings for under $12. It looks to be ideal for the need. NO-tanks to Bob for the 5 gallon gas can idea. I hope you rethink the hazards that might result from carrying a 5 gallon can of S**T, (Human Bio-waste) in your wet locker. If you thought carrying the can into the house to dump it was a smelly nasty job, wait until it overturns in your wet locker. I don't think your holding tank is causing your smell because that type of plastic is non-porous and should not absorb any oders. I would suspect you have one or several loose hose connections. The hoses may also have started to give off odor. You should replace them and clean out the tank. Use a strong detergent and bleach. As for the marine pump out not working I am curious what was wrong? I have never had any problems with the marine pumpout stations, when one was available. I use the macerator pump at the Interstate rest stop RV dump stations when I come back from a lake, and also when I am in open sea water areas where it is legal. The whole pumping system cost under $50. I really hope you reconsider replacing the holding tank with a can of S**T (human Bio-waste). Brigg
Thanks to Brent and Don for the tip on the CAM & GROOVE hose couping idea. I found a local supplier here in Portland and will pick up the couplings for under $12. It looks to be ideal for the need. NO-tanks to Bob for the 5 gallon gas can idea. I hope you rethink the hazards that might result from carrying a 5 gallon can of S**T, (Human Bio-waste) in your wet locker. If you thought carrying the can into the house to dump it was a smelly nasty job, wait until it overturns in your wet locker. I don't think your holding tank is causing your smell because that type of plastic is non-porous and should not absorb any oders. I would suspect you have one or several loose hose connections. The hoses may also have started to give off odor. You should replace them and clean out the tank. Use a strong detergent and bleach. As for the marine pump out not working I am curious what was wrong? I have never had any problems with the marine pumpout stations, when one was available. I use the macerator pump at the Interstate rest stop RV dump stations when I come back from a lake, and also when I am in open sea water areas where it is legal. The whole pumping system cost under $50. I really hope you reconsider replacing the holding tank with a can of S**T (human Bio-waste). Brigg
Smell
I am not sure what would smell worse. An sbd from my dog, me or the holding tank. Brigg and Peggy, thank you for your response to Bob. Bob; Take this from one who knows these boats. The most often cause for boats smelling with holding tanks is the failure to add deorderizing solutions and of course failure to pump out on a regular basis. If you do not have a pump out station, West Marine sells a portable pump out tank on wheels which is a suggestion. Forget Boat US as they have sold the stores to West Marine which became offical last week. An old salty sea dog will also tell you that you can add vineager once in a while to help fend off those nasty smells. I sometimes add a little veggie oil to keep lubrication a plus but not too much. Peggy may disagree with me on this one. One other thing that can be done is to replace the hoses with the other kind which are expensive but will not retain the smell as the ones in the boat you have. Am I right on this Jimbo Seamons? I said my peace and I am going to run out of here with my dog, Schatzi, letting off those SBD's. Crazy Dave Condon
I am not sure what would smell worse. An sbd from my dog, me or the holding tank. Brigg and Peggy, thank you for your response to Bob. Bob; Take this from one who knows these boats. The most often cause for boats smelling with holding tanks is the failure to add deorderizing solutions and of course failure to pump out on a regular basis. If you do not have a pump out station, West Marine sells a portable pump out tank on wheels which is a suggestion. Forget Boat US as they have sold the stores to West Marine which became offical last week. An old salty sea dog will also tell you that you can add vineager once in a while to help fend off those nasty smells. I sometimes add a little veggie oil to keep lubrication a plus but not too much. Peggy may disagree with me on this one. One other thing that can be done is to replace the hoses with the other kind which are expensive but will not retain the smell as the ones in the boat you have. Am I right on this Jimbo Seamons? I said my peace and I am going to run out of here with my dog, Schatzi, letting off those SBD's. Crazy Dave Condon
Picture of the Cam Lock assembly
Brent and Don, any anybody else that reads this, here is a picture of the cam and groove hose connectors, (cam lock). This has worked out to be the best solution I COULDN'T think of. The adapter easily screws into the deck fill, with out the hose attached, the coupler is permanently attached to the drop hose, and all goes together in seconds. And, it only cost $9.50 I love this HunterOwners web site, Thanks crew. As always, I have additional pictures on my site
Brent and Don, any anybody else that reads this, here is a picture of the cam and groove hose connectors, (cam lock). This has worked out to be the best solution I COULDN'T think of. The adapter easily screws into the deck fill, with out the hose attached, the coupler is permanently attached to the drop hose, and all goes together in seconds. And, it only cost $9.50 I love this HunterOwners web site, Thanks crew. As always, I have additional pictures on my site
Attachments
Dave, you may know boats, but
"The most often cause for boats smelling with holding tanks is the failure to add deorderizing solutions and of course failure to pump out on a regular basis" just plain ain't so. HOW can a holding tank--unless it's leaking, which should be obvious because there will be moisture around the tank--be the source of odor INSIDE the boat? Holding tanks don't permeate. Blaming tanks for odor inside the boat is only perpetuating erroneous "folklore." Plain ol' fashioned logic SHOULD tell anyone capable of thinking logically at all that, unless a tank is leaking, there's only one POSSIBLE place for odor inside a tank to go: out the vent. It CAN'T cause odor INSIDE the boat. So it doesn't matter what products are used in the tank, or how often it's pumped out, or how meticulously you rinse it out...you're NOT gonna cure odor inside the boat by working on the inside of the tank or even by removing the tank. The ONLY sources of odor inside the boat are permeated hoses, dirty bilges, dirty sumps, chain lockers...because they're all INside the boat. Pouring vinegar down the toilet MIGHT reduce odor causes by waste trapped in the head discharge line due to incomplete flushing, but it won't do a thing for odor caused by stagant water trapped in the head intake or the channel in the rim of the bowl...nothing poured down the toilet goes through the intake side of the pump. Nor will it do a thing for permeated hoses or a wet dirty bilge or sump--the sources of 99.999999% of odors inside a boat. If you only knew how many calls I've gotten from people who've ripped out their entire sanitation system--often because dealers like you told 'em to--trying to get rid of what they thought was "head" odor, when all they really needed to do was clean--really CLEAN and flush all the dirty water out--their bilges and sumps. As for your approach to toilet lubrication...anything you pour down the toilet only washes out in a few flushes...and you only do it occasionally--which I assume means, when it finally gets so hard to pump you have not choice. Would you treat a boat engine that way...or neglect rigging to that point? So what makes the toilet any different? Pumping a manual toilet without adequate lubrication wears the seals and scratches the inside of the pump cylinder. The first flush can put enough strain on an impeller to crack a vane in an electric toilet. Friction heat from running dry, even momentarily, “fries” the edges, reducing its efficiency a little more each time. Dry rubber and neoprene—especially if it’s salt encrusted, scratches the housing. Even with constant live-aboard use, over time both seals and pump cylinders wear, and because it’s people, not a precise machine, who pump manual heads, they wear unevenly. The best cure is prevention....and all it takes is 10 minutes once a year to remove the top of the pump, put a healthy squirt of Superlube in it, pump a few times to spread it all over the inside of the cyldinder...put the top back on...you're done till next year. Sure beats pouring oil down the toilet every time the toilet becomes so hard to pump that you have no choice, so why not do it right just once a year as PREVENTIVE maintenance that can double the life of the toilet? Sheesh, Dave..none of this is rocket science, it's just logic and common sense. So if the main difference between men and women is SUPPOSED to be, men think logically, women don't...how come I get it, but you don't? And apparently neither does Bob.
"The most often cause for boats smelling with holding tanks is the failure to add deorderizing solutions and of course failure to pump out on a regular basis" just plain ain't so. HOW can a holding tank--unless it's leaking, which should be obvious because there will be moisture around the tank--be the source of odor INSIDE the boat? Holding tanks don't permeate. Blaming tanks for odor inside the boat is only perpetuating erroneous "folklore." Plain ol' fashioned logic SHOULD tell anyone capable of thinking logically at all that, unless a tank is leaking, there's only one POSSIBLE place for odor inside a tank to go: out the vent. It CAN'T cause odor INSIDE the boat. So it doesn't matter what products are used in the tank, or how often it's pumped out, or how meticulously you rinse it out...you're NOT gonna cure odor inside the boat by working on the inside of the tank or even by removing the tank. The ONLY sources of odor inside the boat are permeated hoses, dirty bilges, dirty sumps, chain lockers...because they're all INside the boat. Pouring vinegar down the toilet MIGHT reduce odor causes by waste trapped in the head discharge line due to incomplete flushing, but it won't do a thing for odor caused by stagant water trapped in the head intake or the channel in the rim of the bowl...nothing poured down the toilet goes through the intake side of the pump. Nor will it do a thing for permeated hoses or a wet dirty bilge or sump--the sources of 99.999999% of odors inside a boat. If you only knew how many calls I've gotten from people who've ripped out their entire sanitation system--often because dealers like you told 'em to--trying to get rid of what they thought was "head" odor, when all they really needed to do was clean--really CLEAN and flush all the dirty water out--their bilges and sumps. As for your approach to toilet lubrication...anything you pour down the toilet only washes out in a few flushes...and you only do it occasionally--which I assume means, when it finally gets so hard to pump you have not choice. Would you treat a boat engine that way...or neglect rigging to that point? So what makes the toilet any different? Pumping a manual toilet without adequate lubrication wears the seals and scratches the inside of the pump cylinder. The first flush can put enough strain on an impeller to crack a vane in an electric toilet. Friction heat from running dry, even momentarily, “fries” the edges, reducing its efficiency a little more each time. Dry rubber and neoprene—especially if it’s salt encrusted, scratches the housing. Even with constant live-aboard use, over time both seals and pump cylinders wear, and because it’s people, not a precise machine, who pump manual heads, they wear unevenly. The best cure is prevention....and all it takes is 10 minutes once a year to remove the top of the pump, put a healthy squirt of Superlube in it, pump a few times to spread it all over the inside of the cyldinder...put the top back on...you're done till next year. Sure beats pouring oil down the toilet every time the toilet becomes so hard to pump that you have no choice, so why not do it right just once a year as PREVENTIVE maintenance that can double the life of the toilet? Sheesh, Dave..none of this is rocket science, it's just logic and common sense. So if the main difference between men and women is SUPPOSED to be, men think logically, women don't...how come I get it, but you don't? And apparently neither does Bob.
Ouch! I May Need Therapy After That Last Post.
Thanks Peggy, Brigg and Dave. They say a little constructive criticism is good for the soul. Peggy, in answer to your question, I sail on the South Shore of Long Island and, unfortunately, no dumping. I did read many of your earlier posts and, at the beginning of the summer, did try using "KP". It did seem to make a positive difference, but that stench is still there and will probably stay there as long as I carry around, and leave, raw sewage on the boat. Brigg had asked of my experiences with the marine pump out stations. My first unsuccessful attempt was at the Sailors Haven Marina along the Intercoastal on Fire Island. The dock faces north on to the Great South Bay. There was a north wind and the boat, and my nerves, took a terrible beating that day. My second attempt was 2 weeks later at Tanner's Park. I motored/sailed 1.5 hours, got there, only to find out that the marina's pump was broken. While all of this is going on, while I am spending my summer trying to figure out how to rid myself of 10 gallons of crap, I have a neighbor with a H26 with a porta potty and no waste problems. Hence my solution. I know you three are dissapointed in me but try to think of this idea as a porta potta without the potty. Brigg, you were concerned about the can spilling so I posted a picture of the can's location in the wet locker. I think it is pretty safe unless, of course, I flip the boat. I will also secure the can to the wall of the wet locker and place a board over the entire assembly so that it will not be seen. I know this seems a bit unorthodox but, at the very least, my "portable holding tank" will be emptied after every sail. I have also freed up a lot of space where the old holding tank was. I plan on moving my 2 batteries to this location to take the weight off the motor/starbord side of the boat. By the way, just cause its a 5 gal can, I don't think I will be generating 5 gallons of waste every day I go out sailing. I figure a 1 or 2 gallons per sail which shouldn't be to heavy to carry. I'll let you folks know how things work out. Regards, Bob.
Thanks Peggy, Brigg and Dave. They say a little constructive criticism is good for the soul. Peggy, in answer to your question, I sail on the South Shore of Long Island and, unfortunately, no dumping. I did read many of your earlier posts and, at the beginning of the summer, did try using "KP". It did seem to make a positive difference, but that stench is still there and will probably stay there as long as I carry around, and leave, raw sewage on the boat. Brigg had asked of my experiences with the marine pump out stations. My first unsuccessful attempt was at the Sailors Haven Marina along the Intercoastal on Fire Island. The dock faces north on to the Great South Bay. There was a north wind and the boat, and my nerves, took a terrible beating that day. My second attempt was 2 weeks later at Tanner's Park. I motored/sailed 1.5 hours, got there, only to find out that the marina's pump was broken. While all of this is going on, while I am spending my summer trying to figure out how to rid myself of 10 gallons of crap, I have a neighbor with a H26 with a porta potty and no waste problems. Hence my solution. I know you three are dissapointed in me but try to think of this idea as a porta potta without the potty. Brigg, you were concerned about the can spilling so I posted a picture of the can's location in the wet locker. I think it is pretty safe unless, of course, I flip the boat. I will also secure the can to the wall of the wet locker and place a board over the entire assembly so that it will not be seen. I know this seems a bit unorthodox but, at the very least, my "portable holding tank" will be emptied after every sail. I have also freed up a lot of space where the old holding tank was. I plan on moving my 2 batteries to this location to take the weight off the motor/starbord side of the boat. By the way, just cause its a 5 gal can, I don't think I will be generating 5 gallons of waste every day I go out sailing. I figure a 1 or 2 gallons per sail which shouldn't be to heavy to carry. I'll let you folks know how things work out. Regards, Bob.
Attachments
Bob, I sympathize with your problem
Unavailability of pumpout facilities is the bane of many boat owners' existance. But apparently you still don't get it that the tank is NOT the source of the odors inside your boat. So your proposed solution isn't gonna solve your odor problems...in fact, it's more likely to add to 'em. And the potential for leaks and spills that will make it a source of even worse odors than you have now is enormous. Instead of just replacing your holding tank with a HIGHLY questionable portable jerry can, go all the way and do it right: replace your tank AND toilet with a REAL portapotty. A 5-6 gallon model doesn't have to be permanently installed and plumbed for pumpout...they're available as portable units too, and won't weigh any more or less than your proposed 5 gallon jerry can. But unlike your jerry can idea, it won't leak...getting rid of the toilet too eliminates odors due to seawater trapped in the toilet intake, and there won't be any hoses that can permeate and stink. You might also consider cleaning your bilge. I don't mean just dumping some more bilge cleaner into it...but really CLEAN it. A wet bilge is a dark stagnant pond, a swamp in fact. And it behaves like one, growing a variety of molds, fungi and bacteria that thrive in dark stagnant water. The warmer the weather and water, the faster they grow. Add some dead and decaying sea water micro-organisms, dirt, rain water, wash water, humidity, plus a little oil or diesel, and you have a real primordial soup--no wonder it stinks! And often as not, the odor smells like a sewer--which is why so many people think the sanitation system is the culprit. I’ve never understood why most people think that just throwing in some bilge cleaner and/or bleach and calling it done is all there is to cleaning a bilge. They wouldn’t just add some detergent and bleach to a bathtub full of dirty bath water, drain it and call the bathtub clean. No one would ever even think of skipping the rinse cycle in the clothes washer or the dishwasher...so why would anyone think it’s possible to clean a bilge without rinsing all the dirty water out of it? Hunters are notorious for bilge areas that trap water, but are inaccessible to scrub. They're also notoriously smelly because the ice box drains into 'em. But you can clean 'em out with power washer. First, with a LOT Of detergent, followed by flushing with clean water until the water coming out your bilge pumps is clean enough to drink...and finally by using a hand pump, shop vac, and/or sponge and bucket to mop up the water the bilge pumps leave behind. Trust me...you'll be amazed at how much better your boat will smell if you do this just once a year.
Unavailability of pumpout facilities is the bane of many boat owners' existance. But apparently you still don't get it that the tank is NOT the source of the odors inside your boat. So your proposed solution isn't gonna solve your odor problems...in fact, it's more likely to add to 'em. And the potential for leaks and spills that will make it a source of even worse odors than you have now is enormous. Instead of just replacing your holding tank with a HIGHLY questionable portable jerry can, go all the way and do it right: replace your tank AND toilet with a REAL portapotty. A 5-6 gallon model doesn't have to be permanently installed and plumbed for pumpout...they're available as portable units too, and won't weigh any more or less than your proposed 5 gallon jerry can. But unlike your jerry can idea, it won't leak...getting rid of the toilet too eliminates odors due to seawater trapped in the toilet intake, and there won't be any hoses that can permeate and stink. You might also consider cleaning your bilge. I don't mean just dumping some more bilge cleaner into it...but really CLEAN it. A wet bilge is a dark stagnant pond, a swamp in fact. And it behaves like one, growing a variety of molds, fungi and bacteria that thrive in dark stagnant water. The warmer the weather and water, the faster they grow. Add some dead and decaying sea water micro-organisms, dirt, rain water, wash water, humidity, plus a little oil or diesel, and you have a real primordial soup--no wonder it stinks! And often as not, the odor smells like a sewer--which is why so many people think the sanitation system is the culprit. I’ve never understood why most people think that just throwing in some bilge cleaner and/or bleach and calling it done is all there is to cleaning a bilge. They wouldn’t just add some detergent and bleach to a bathtub full of dirty bath water, drain it and call the bathtub clean. No one would ever even think of skipping the rinse cycle in the clothes washer or the dishwasher...so why would anyone think it’s possible to clean a bilge without rinsing all the dirty water out of it? Hunters are notorious for bilge areas that trap water, but are inaccessible to scrub. They're also notoriously smelly because the ice box drains into 'em. But you can clean 'em out with power washer. First, with a LOT Of detergent, followed by flushing with clean water until the water coming out your bilge pumps is clean enough to drink...and finally by using a hand pump, shop vac, and/or sponge and bucket to mop up the water the bilge pumps leave behind. Trust me...you'll be amazed at how much better your boat will smell if you do this just once a year.
sorry peggy but
I beg difference. I run across this alot with the 260. When you do not pump out and add deordizing solution, I have been in several that stink to high heck. The hoses used by Hunter for some reason allow the smell to permeate through which I was surprised. Jim Seamons, you need to defend me on this one as he replaced the hoses after two years. The biggest problem Peggy that I have seen over the years is primarily the lack of proper maintenance. Your suggestion to lube the kpump assembly once a year is good but most folks would rather not touch it. That is why I suggested little veggie oil which has worked for me over the past 30 years.
I beg difference. I run across this alot with the 260. When you do not pump out and add deordizing solution, I have been in several that stink to high heck. The hoses used by Hunter for some reason allow the smell to permeate through which I was surprised. Jim Seamons, you need to defend me on this one as he replaced the hoses after two years. The biggest problem Peggy that I have seen over the years is primarily the lack of proper maintenance. Your suggestion to lube the kpump assembly once a year is good but most folks would rather not touch it. That is why I suggested little veggie oil which has worked for me over the past 30 years.
Dave, read your own post
" When you do not pump out and add deordizing solution, I have been in several that stink to high heck. The hoses used by Hunter for some reason allow the smell to permeate through which I was surprised." You just confirmed what I've been trying to tell you: It's permeated HOSES that make the boat stink inside. And it has nothing to do with what's used in the tank, how often it's pumped out, OR the quality of the hose--Any hose except SeaLand "OdorSafe" (which has an impermeable "skin" bonded to the outside of it) will stink if waste is left to sit in it, because the evironment inside a hose is anaerobic. The most vulnerable hose is the pumpout line. Because it comes from the bottom of the tank, there will always be waste in it to the level in the tank. The only thing that frequent pumpouts accomplish is a reduction of the level of waste n the pumpout hose...but unless the tank is also rinsed afterward--so that the pumpout hose is also rinsed out--pumping out the tank won't prevent the pumpout hose from permeation from the waste left clinging to the inside of the hose. Several things can cause the head discharge hose to permeate--people who stop flushing as soon as the bowl empty, leaving each flush to sit in the hose to be pushed a little further by the next flush...a route from the head to the tank that has sags where waste can sit...heeling that sends waste in the tank back into the head discharge line...a tank that's so far from the toilet that it's all but impossible to flush long enough to clear the waste out of the hose. How can pumping out the tank prevent odor from permeating the head discharge hose? Flushing a couple of quarts of clean water and white vinegar down the toilet to clean out the hose when closing up the boat, so that no waste is left to sit and ferment in the hose will do far more. Even the tank vent line will permeate if the tank overflows out it due to owner inattention or heeling. It'll permeate a lot faster if clear hose is used instead of sanitation hose. Can gasses from a foul tank escape into the hoses to permeate them? Yes. But pumping out the tank, unless the tank is thoroughly rinsed out afterward won't cure that because there's still an inch or so of waste left in the tank to continue to produce gasses. Chemical "deoderant" products won't help either if the vent doesn't allow enough ventilation to keep the tank aerobic...they only add a chemical odor to the waste odor that permeates the hoses. So the cure isn't in more frequent pumpouts and "deoderants"...it's in an improved installation. It's in a tank vent that doesn't let the tank become anerobic. Spills out the vent (except for those caused by owner inattention) and runback due to heeling wouldn't happen if the tank inlet and vent fittings were toward the centerline, away from the hull. Waste wouldn't sit in the pumpout line if the discharge fitting were on the top of the tank with a tube inside to the bottom. And the line from the head from the tank would be much less likely to permeate if a) it's no longer than 6', and b) there aren't any sags in it. Seawater trapped in the head intake is another source of odor inside a boat...so is a wet dirty bilge, dirty sumps...both can smell like a sewer. There a lots of sources of odor inside a boat, but the tank is NOT one of 'em.
" When you do not pump out and add deordizing solution, I have been in several that stink to high heck. The hoses used by Hunter for some reason allow the smell to permeate through which I was surprised." You just confirmed what I've been trying to tell you: It's permeated HOSES that make the boat stink inside. And it has nothing to do with what's used in the tank, how often it's pumped out, OR the quality of the hose--Any hose except SeaLand "OdorSafe" (which has an impermeable "skin" bonded to the outside of it) will stink if waste is left to sit in it, because the evironment inside a hose is anaerobic. The most vulnerable hose is the pumpout line. Because it comes from the bottom of the tank, there will always be waste in it to the level in the tank. The only thing that frequent pumpouts accomplish is a reduction of the level of waste n the pumpout hose...but unless the tank is also rinsed afterward--so that the pumpout hose is also rinsed out--pumping out the tank won't prevent the pumpout hose from permeation from the waste left clinging to the inside of the hose. Several things can cause the head discharge hose to permeate--people who stop flushing as soon as the bowl empty, leaving each flush to sit in the hose to be pushed a little further by the next flush...a route from the head to the tank that has sags where waste can sit...heeling that sends waste in the tank back into the head discharge line...a tank that's so far from the toilet that it's all but impossible to flush long enough to clear the waste out of the hose. How can pumping out the tank prevent odor from permeating the head discharge hose? Flushing a couple of quarts of clean water and white vinegar down the toilet to clean out the hose when closing up the boat, so that no waste is left to sit and ferment in the hose will do far more. Even the tank vent line will permeate if the tank overflows out it due to owner inattention or heeling. It'll permeate a lot faster if clear hose is used instead of sanitation hose. Can gasses from a foul tank escape into the hoses to permeate them? Yes. But pumping out the tank, unless the tank is thoroughly rinsed out afterward won't cure that because there's still an inch or so of waste left in the tank to continue to produce gasses. Chemical "deoderant" products won't help either if the vent doesn't allow enough ventilation to keep the tank aerobic...they only add a chemical odor to the waste odor that permeates the hoses. So the cure isn't in more frequent pumpouts and "deoderants"...it's in an improved installation. It's in a tank vent that doesn't let the tank become anerobic. Spills out the vent (except for those caused by owner inattention) and runback due to heeling wouldn't happen if the tank inlet and vent fittings were toward the centerline, away from the hull. Waste wouldn't sit in the pumpout line if the discharge fitting were on the top of the tank with a tube inside to the bottom. And the line from the head from the tank would be much less likely to permeate if a) it's no longer than 6', and b) there aren't any sags in it. Seawater trapped in the head intake is another source of odor inside a boat...so is a wet dirty bilge, dirty sumps...both can smell like a sewer. There a lots of sources of odor inside a boat, but the tank is NOT one of 'em.
LOL!
Sam, if you only knew what a compliment that was! But I'll take the chocolate anyway!
Don, you know moms and dads don't fight...they only have "heated discussions."
Sam, if you only knew what a compliment that was! But I'll take the chocolate anyway!
Don, you know moms and dads don't fight...they only have "heated discussions." Ok Peggy or Mom
Me no want to quarrel with you. I could be on your blank blank list now. Oh boy. Did I step in doo doo. Lets close this down as it is getting deep. OK but you can Miss Peggy throw 20,000 wet noodles at me Crazy Dave
Me no want to quarrel with you. I could be on your blank blank list now. Oh boy. Did I step in doo doo. Lets close this down as it is getting deep. OK but you can Miss Peggy throw 20,000 wet noodles at me Crazy Dave
Who's quarreling??
And no, you're not on ANY of my lists. In fact, I have a great deal of admiration for you and all boat dealers...'cuz it's a TOUGH way to make a living ("If I'd known the boat business was gonna be this much fun I'd have brought more money!"). Any time you get a stinky boat, all you ever to have to ask...once I know what's going on, I can tell you how to cure it (or tell the boat owner how to), and I'd like nothing better than to help you do that. If I knew where to send it, I'll send you a copy of my book as soon as it's out. Maybe Phil will give you a volume discount on copies to give to your customers with stinky boats. And if we're ever lucky enough to meet, I'll buy YOU a beer!
And no, you're not on ANY of my lists. In fact, I have a great deal of admiration for you and all boat dealers...'cuz it's a TOUGH way to make a living ("If I'd known the boat business was gonna be this much fun I'd have brought more money!"). Any time you get a stinky boat, all you ever to have to ask...once I know what's going on, I can tell you how to cure it (or tell the boat owner how to), and I'd like nothing better than to help you do that. If I knew where to send it, I'll send you a copy of my book as soon as it's out. Maybe Phil will give you a volume discount on copies to give to your customers with stinky boats. And if we're ever lucky enough to meet, I'll buy YOU a beer!
I will take you up on the beer
Peggy; When I meet you, I will take you up on it. I use to take moonshine to Hunter and you would be amazed who drank it. crazy Dave condon
Peggy; When I meet you, I will take you up on it. I use to take moonshine to Hunter and you would be amazed who drank it. crazy Dave condon
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