Peggie or anyone else! I am finally installing the Y-valve and macerator pump in my h34. (Previous owner just pumped directly into the ocean - illegally.) The holding tank is located under the forward seat of the dining table. Thru-hull for toilet water intake, and thru-hull for flush are also both there. A little crowded! Here's the rub. If I try to fit a y-valve and macerator in the same compartment, I can't put the macerator pump on the floor: there's not enough room. The other location means locating it up about 6 inches up from the bottom of the waste tank. In other words, the level of water (and waste) in the tank will not be as high as the macerator pump, unless the holding tank is half full. I've read Peggie's advice saying to place the macerator pump as low or lower than the bottom of the tank. is this really necessary? Any one else attacked this problem. I hate to just bolt the pump in plain view under the dining table! Or do I just mount it 6 inches up, and figure that I don't pump unless I have that much waste, and can always pump extra water in before pumping, if it is too low. Oh, and the waste thru-hull is below the waterline by about 6 inches. But using a proper vented loop between the output of the macerator and that thru-hull, no water will come in from the ocean to prime the pump. Appreciate any advice, especially if you've looked under the seat of a h34 and know the dimensions!
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Ernie Rodriguez
Not familiar with the H34, but
I have been considering installing a macerator pump on my holding tank on our Hunter 36 and lately am of the opinion of mounting the pump directly to the tank,with no hose, no Y valve. The output of the pump, 1 inch hose, would go directly to the the thru hull valve, which would normally be kept closed. I would then install a separate discharge for the deck pump out and thus eliminate a considerable amount of "smelly old hose" and also eliminate two Y valves that I currently have. Installing the macerator pump with a 1 1/2 inch hose does not make much sense to me because I would think that the macerator portion of the pump is most effective as close as possible to the holding tank, preferably right in the tank! I may consider a turn off valve right at the tank and then the pump. But that is just one more item to install inline, increasing the amount of room required, and increasing one more item to get pluggged up or fail. Hope this helps, and if anyone else is reading, would appreciate any comments.
I have been considering installing a macerator pump on my holding tank on our Hunter 36 and lately am of the opinion of mounting the pump directly to the tank,with no hose, no Y valve. The output of the pump, 1 inch hose, would go directly to the the thru hull valve, which would normally be kept closed. I would then install a separate discharge for the deck pump out and thus eliminate a considerable amount of "smelly old hose" and also eliminate two Y valves that I currently have. Installing the macerator pump with a 1 1/2 inch hose does not make much sense to me because I would think that the macerator portion of the pump is most effective as close as possible to the holding tank, preferably right in the tank! I may consider a turn off valve right at the tank and then the pump. But that is just one more item to install inline, increasing the amount of room required, and increasing one more item to get pluggged up or fail. Hope this helps, and if anyone else is reading, would appreciate any comments.
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Ron Dague
Ernie - cut another hole in the tank or ???
I agree that the closer the better for the macerator pump. When you say you're thinking about a seperate outlet for the pumpout - are you going to cut another whole in the tank and thread one in, or ???? I also would like to screw the macerator directly into the tank, but don't see how to have dockside "pump-out" ability without cutting another whole. And more holes in the holding tank is not an appealing idea!
I agree that the closer the better for the macerator pump. When you say you're thinking about a seperate outlet for the pumpout - are you going to cut another whole in the tank and thread one in, or ???? I also would like to screw the macerator directly into the tank, but don't see how to have dockside "pump-out" ability without cutting another whole. And more holes in the holding tank is not an appealing idea!
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Derek Rowell
I did it on my H34 - macerator pump
Ron, I added a macerator to my H34 about 5 years ago. Here's what I did: 1) All flow from the head now goes directly into the holding tank. 2) I added a Y-valve at the outlet (I think after the vented loop), giving me either deck pump-out or overboard via the macerator pump. 3) I removed the manual pump from the head. Now the "wiring" is real tight and awkward as you will know. I used the heavy white hose, which is about impossible to bend, and I ended up having to use more right-angle elbows than I wanted. It took a long time to make things fit. I mounted the pump up about 6" from the floor - I'm trying to visualize what I mounted it to - can't recall. The pump has worked just fine. It primes without a problem and pumps out to the level of the tank. I added a breaker to the panel and used relatively heavy wire because of the long run - the pump draws 9-10 amps when pumping. (Wires go behind port settee, and through the fiberglass strengthening rib by the head and exit right by the holding tank - quite invisible.) The main problem is that the sea-cocks are now a bit harder to get to than they were before because of all the hoses and the Y-valve (which floats on the hoses). After all that Rhode Island declares itself a no-discharge state!!! If you would like the details, I'll be on the boat this weekend and will make a sketch with dimensions. Let me know your e-mail address. Derek drowell@mit.edu
Ron, I added a macerator to my H34 about 5 years ago. Here's what I did: 1) All flow from the head now goes directly into the holding tank. 2) I added a Y-valve at the outlet (I think after the vented loop), giving me either deck pump-out or overboard via the macerator pump. 3) I removed the manual pump from the head. Now the "wiring" is real tight and awkward as you will know. I used the heavy white hose, which is about impossible to bend, and I ended up having to use more right-angle elbows than I wanted. It took a long time to make things fit. I mounted the pump up about 6" from the floor - I'm trying to visualize what I mounted it to - can't recall. The pump has worked just fine. It primes without a problem and pumps out to the level of the tank. I added a breaker to the panel and used relatively heavy wire because of the long run - the pump draws 9-10 amps when pumping. (Wires go behind port settee, and through the fiberglass strengthening rib by the head and exit right by the holding tank - quite invisible.) The main problem is that the sea-cocks are now a bit harder to get to than they were before because of all the hoses and the Y-valve (which floats on the hoses). After all that Rhode Island declares itself a no-discharge state!!! If you would like the details, I'll be on the boat this weekend and will make a sketch with dimensions. Let me know your e-mail address. Derek drowell@mit.edu
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Derek, I'm confused...
The vented loop has to go between the macerator and the thru-hull. How can your y-valve be between the vented loop and the thru-hull and still allow you to pump out the tank? The macerator would effectively become a shut-off device in the pump-out line. If your vented loop is ahead of the macerator, and the y-valve is after the vented loop, the vented loop is useless insofar as preventing seawater from being forced back into the tank if the seacock is open and the y-valve is is in the pumpout position. Here's the correct installation: The y-valve should be as close to the tank as possible...one side goes to the pumpout fitting on deck, the other to the macerator. The macerator should be close enough to the y-valve--and at a level--to allow it to prime almost immediately, so that the impeller doesn't run dry more than a second or two (running dry "fries" impellers). There should be a vented loop in the line between the macerator and the thru-hull that's at least 1' above the waterline at any angle of heel...and the seacock should always remain closed except when the macerator is being run.
The vented loop has to go between the macerator and the thru-hull. How can your y-valve be between the vented loop and the thru-hull and still allow you to pump out the tank? The macerator would effectively become a shut-off device in the pump-out line. If your vented loop is ahead of the macerator, and the y-valve is after the vented loop, the vented loop is useless insofar as preventing seawater from being forced back into the tank if the seacock is open and the y-valve is is in the pumpout position. Here's the correct installation: The y-valve should be as close to the tank as possible...one side goes to the pumpout fitting on deck, the other to the macerator. The macerator should be close enough to the y-valve--and at a level--to allow it to prime almost immediately, so that the impeller doesn't run dry more than a second or two (running dry "fries" impellers). There should be a vented loop in the line between the macerator and the thru-hull that's at least 1' above the waterline at any angle of heel...and the seacock should always remain closed except when the macerator is being run.
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
2 discharge ports in the tank are ideal...
That eliminates the need for a y-valve in the pumpout line. Installing another fitting in a plastic tank--especially at the bottom of it--can be done, but it requires access to the inside of the tank, and must be done VERY carefully: Use a "bulkhead" or "mushroom" fitting--the kind that has a flange and a nut that tightens against the other side of the hull (or in this case, the tank). The hole must be a such a tight fit for the fitting that the fitting has to be screwed into it. Make /16" rubber gaskets to go on the fitting on both the inside and the outside of the tank...these should also be a very tight fit. Put the first gasket on the fitting...reach into the tank and insert the fitting into the hole with the flange INside the tank and the hose barb sticking outside...put the second gasket on the barb and tighten down the nut. If you've cut the hole tight enough, and if your gasket is tight enough, you'll have a seal that's as good as a factory installed fitting and will last for years. Whenever there's at least 5" clearance above the top of the tank, we like to spec all the fittings installed in the top of the tank, with tubes inside the tank on the pump and dump fittings. When retrofitting a discharge fitting on the top of the tank, use rigid pvc which has an OD (outside diameter) that's the same size as the ID (inner diameter) of the bulkhead fitting...insert the pvc in the flange end of the fitting...use PVC cement to glue it in...and follow the directions above for installing it. Buy a longer piece of pvc than you need...AFTER you insert one end into the fitting, measure to the bottom of the inside of the tank from the inside of the top of the tank (which should be at least 1/4" from the bottom of the flange). Cut the pipe at about about a 25 degree angle...if you leave it flat very close to the bottom in the mistaken belief that you'll get more out, you're more likely to get a clog...if you cut the angle more than about 25 degrees, you leave more in the tank than you need to. Ernie, a macerator is effective anywhere in the line as long as anything is going through it. The only reason to put one close the tank is to prevent the impeller from running dry long enough to fry the impeller. Putting one inside the tank only displaces volume that reduces tank capacity. NEVER attach one directly to the tank--in fact, never attach anything rigid to anything else that's rigid, especially on a sailboat...the stresses from tacking and heeling will inevitably crack something--in the case of a macerator attached directly to a tank, the tank fitting. Always "soft couple" hard pipe, macerators, pumps, etc to toilets, tanks, thru-hulls etc with enough hose to act as a shock absorber...never directly to each other. And there's a good reason why sanitation hose is 1.5" and macerators are 1.5" in (although Jabsco is the only mfr whose macerator is only 1" out): 1" hose is too small for solids and paper to pass without clogging, but "pureed" waste coming out of a macerator can pass through 1" hose without a problem.
That eliminates the need for a y-valve in the pumpout line. Installing another fitting in a plastic tank--especially at the bottom of it--can be done, but it requires access to the inside of the tank, and must be done VERY carefully: Use a "bulkhead" or "mushroom" fitting--the kind that has a flange and a nut that tightens against the other side of the hull (or in this case, the tank). The hole must be a such a tight fit for the fitting that the fitting has to be screwed into it. Make /16" rubber gaskets to go on the fitting on both the inside and the outside of the tank...these should also be a very tight fit. Put the first gasket on the fitting...reach into the tank and insert the fitting into the hole with the flange INside the tank and the hose barb sticking outside...put the second gasket on the barb and tighten down the nut. If you've cut the hole tight enough, and if your gasket is tight enough, you'll have a seal that's as good as a factory installed fitting and will last for years. Whenever there's at least 5" clearance above the top of the tank, we like to spec all the fittings installed in the top of the tank, with tubes inside the tank on the pump and dump fittings. When retrofitting a discharge fitting on the top of the tank, use rigid pvc which has an OD (outside diameter) that's the same size as the ID (inner diameter) of the bulkhead fitting...insert the pvc in the flange end of the fitting...use PVC cement to glue it in...and follow the directions above for installing it. Buy a longer piece of pvc than you need...AFTER you insert one end into the fitting, measure to the bottom of the inside of the tank from the inside of the top of the tank (which should be at least 1/4" from the bottom of the flange). Cut the pipe at about about a 25 degree angle...if you leave it flat very close to the bottom in the mistaken belief that you'll get more out, you're more likely to get a clog...if you cut the angle more than about 25 degrees, you leave more in the tank than you need to. Ernie, a macerator is effective anywhere in the line as long as anything is going through it. The only reason to put one close the tank is to prevent the impeller from running dry long enough to fry the impeller. Putting one inside the tank only displaces volume that reduces tank capacity. NEVER attach one directly to the tank--in fact, never attach anything rigid to anything else that's rigid, especially on a sailboat...the stresses from tacking and heeling will inevitably crack something--in the case of a macerator attached directly to a tank, the tank fitting. Always "soft couple" hard pipe, macerators, pumps, etc to toilets, tanks, thru-hulls etc with enough hose to act as a shock absorber...never directly to each other. And there's a good reason why sanitation hose is 1.5" and macerators are 1.5" in (although Jabsco is the only mfr whose macerator is only 1" out): 1" hose is too small for solids and paper to pass without clogging, but "pureed" waste coming out of a macerator can pass through 1" hose without a problem.
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Derek Rowell
Peggy - you're 100% right!
Peggy, Of course! I was sitting in my office trying to recall what I did several years ago. The tank outlet goes thru the Y-valve directly to the pump, and THEN to the vented loop and seacock. Derek
Peggy, Of course! I was sitting in my office trying to recall what I did several years ago. The tank outlet goes thru the Y-valve directly to the pump, and THEN to the vented loop and seacock. Derek
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Ernie Rodriguez
Yes Ron, another hole in the tank
is what I had in mind because in my case that would reduce the length of line from the tank to the deck pump-out fitting. I have sufficient room at the top of the tank where it is mounted and will follow Peggy's advise on how to install it. It will require cutting an acess hole, which could be useful in case of problems later on. I also plan on adding another vent line as Peggy recommends. Thanks Peggy, for the advise on mounting the macerater pump away from the tank. I may be able to do it with a short length of hose and mount the pump on its own shelf apart from the tank. But I really don't see a need for a vented loop on the output side of the pump if the thru hull valve is closed most of the time and the only time to open it is when you need to disharge the tank in legal waters, for which it can be closed right after. Or am I missing something??
is what I had in mind because in my case that would reduce the length of line from the tank to the deck pump-out fitting. I have sufficient room at the top of the tank where it is mounted and will follow Peggy's advise on how to install it. It will require cutting an acess hole, which could be useful in case of problems later on. I also plan on adding another vent line as Peggy recommends. Thanks Peggy, for the advise on mounting the macerater pump away from the tank. I may be able to do it with a short length of hose and mount the pump on its own shelf apart from the tank. But I really don't see a need for a vented loop on the output side of the pump if the thru hull valve is closed most of the time and the only time to open it is when you need to disharge the tank in legal waters, for which it can be closed right after. Or am I missing something??
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
What you're missing, Ernie, is...
...human fallibility. You SAY you'll make sure the seacock is always closed...but remember Murphy: "whatever can go wrong, will go wrong." And in my experience, Murphy was an optimist! Open sea--which is the only place you can legally dump a tank--presents a lot of challenges that can distract you from remembering to close a seacock later that you weren't able to close immediately...And a seacock located under a dinette, buried under a bunch of plumbing, is all too easily "out of sight, out of mind." Build in every fail-safe you can--and that includes a vented loop in the discharge line from the macerator to the thru-hull...and STILL be prepared for at least one of 'em not to work.
...human fallibility. You SAY you'll make sure the seacock is always closed...but remember Murphy: "whatever can go wrong, will go wrong." And in my experience, Murphy was an optimist! Open sea--which is the only place you can legally dump a tank--presents a lot of challenges that can distract you from remembering to close a seacock later that you weren't able to close immediately...And a seacock located under a dinette, buried under a bunch of plumbing, is all too easily "out of sight, out of mind." Build in every fail-safe you can--and that includes a vented loop in the discharge line from the macerator to the thru-hull...and STILL be prepared for at least one of 'em not to work.
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Derek Rowell
Why a Y-valve, why not a Y? Why oh Why?
Peggies idea of two outlets instead of a Y-valve seems to be a good one. I just had the thought - instead of cutting an extra hole in the tank, would it possible to simply use a Y-hose connection on the existing outlet, branching to the macerator and to the deck pumpout? I can see that it might have a tendency to suck air if the deck fitting is not properly sealed, but other than that it should work the same as two separate outlets, particularly if the Y is right up close to the tank. It might be much easier to mount a simple open-closed valve in the deck pump-out hose (say in the head area) if air is a problem. Wy do we bother with the Y-valve? Derek
Peggies idea of two outlets instead of a Y-valve seems to be a good one. I just had the thought - instead of cutting an extra hole in the tank, would it possible to simply use a Y-hose connection on the existing outlet, branching to the macerator and to the deck pumpout? I can see that it might have a tendency to suck air if the deck fitting is not properly sealed, but other than that it should work the same as two separate outlets, particularly if the Y is right up close to the tank. It might be much easier to mount a simple open-closed valve in the deck pump-out hose (say in the head area) if air is a problem. Wy do we bother with the Y-valve? Derek
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Ron Dague
Y - Valve Controversy
Having spent hours yesterday taking old waste hose out, I can't see why you need a Y valve to switch between macerator and pumpout either. If I install a "T" at the waste tank, I have room for the pump. The macerator won't suck air, until the tank is empty, since the thru=tank fitting is near the bottom of the tank. And when pumping out, the waste isn't being pulled through the macerator pump. So, Peggie, can I skip the Y-valve at the tank and use a "T". (I've read posts about cutting more holes in my tank, but am not excited about it.) Here is my Plan (Criticism and comments welcome): 1) Y-valve at the head, to either divert to the holding tank, or to directly to thru hull, thus avoiding filling the holding tank when offshore. The direct to thru-hull from head, uses 1 1/2" hose, vented loop. 2) A t-fitting at the bottom of the waste holding tank. One side goes straight up to pump-out deck fitting. Other side of "t" goes to macerator pump. My macerator 1" output will have a vented loop, and joins the 1 1/2" hose that comes from the "direct head to thru-hull line", right after that vented loop (using a Y-fitting, above the waterline). Thus the direct head to thru hull and macerator use the one thru-hull connection. That gives me the ability to: 1) directly pump from head to ocean; or 2) pump to holding tank. Once in the holding tank, I can: 3) use a pump-out station, or 4) pump out myself using the macerator pump. Benefits: only on "Y valve", uses one existing thru-hull, and no new holes in holding tank. All lines to thru-hull use vented loops. So, fellow owners and Peggie, anything wrong with this plan? The only concern I have is: when using a dock pump-out, will the pumping out create a back pressure through the macerator pump and damage it? I would think not, since the tank is well vented and the macerator pump is a centrifugal type, not diaphram, so shouldn't be damaged by back flow, anyway. (Will it draw air from the vented loop, down through the macerator pump, and thus not empty holding tank when using dock side pump-out. If not, a "T" should be fine. (Or is that why a "Y-valve" is used between holding tank and macerator/Deck pumpout fittings.) I would always keep the through-hull closed when not being used, and when deck pump-out. I just love owning a boat. My two hour "little project" is now on it's 3rd day! Anyone that has ideas is free to email me off list, if this is getting too boring for the rest of you, although it appears a lot of us are expermenting with the same problems and ideas. Ron S/V Finesse, h34 Photoron@earthlink.net
Having spent hours yesterday taking old waste hose out, I can't see why you need a Y valve to switch between macerator and pumpout either. If I install a "T" at the waste tank, I have room for the pump. The macerator won't suck air, until the tank is empty, since the thru=tank fitting is near the bottom of the tank. And when pumping out, the waste isn't being pulled through the macerator pump. So, Peggie, can I skip the Y-valve at the tank and use a "T". (I've read posts about cutting more holes in my tank, but am not excited about it.) Here is my Plan (Criticism and comments welcome): 1) Y-valve at the head, to either divert to the holding tank, or to directly to thru hull, thus avoiding filling the holding tank when offshore. The direct to thru-hull from head, uses 1 1/2" hose, vented loop. 2) A t-fitting at the bottom of the waste holding tank. One side goes straight up to pump-out deck fitting. Other side of "t" goes to macerator pump. My macerator 1" output will have a vented loop, and joins the 1 1/2" hose that comes from the "direct head to thru-hull line", right after that vented loop (using a Y-fitting, above the waterline). Thus the direct head to thru hull and macerator use the one thru-hull connection. That gives me the ability to: 1) directly pump from head to ocean; or 2) pump to holding tank. Once in the holding tank, I can: 3) use a pump-out station, or 4) pump out myself using the macerator pump. Benefits: only on "Y valve", uses one existing thru-hull, and no new holes in holding tank. All lines to thru-hull use vented loops. So, fellow owners and Peggie, anything wrong with this plan? The only concern I have is: when using a dock pump-out, will the pumping out create a back pressure through the macerator pump and damage it? I would think not, since the tank is well vented and the macerator pump is a centrifugal type, not diaphram, so shouldn't be damaged by back flow, anyway. (Will it draw air from the vented loop, down through the macerator pump, and thus not empty holding tank when using dock side pump-out. If not, a "T" should be fine. (Or is that why a "Y-valve" is used between holding tank and macerator/Deck pumpout fittings.) I would always keep the through-hull closed when not being used, and when deck pump-out. I just love owning a boat. My two hour "little project" is now on it's 3rd day! Anyone that has ideas is free to email me off list, if this is getting too boring for the rest of you, although it appears a lot of us are expermenting with the same problems and ideas. Ron S/V Finesse, h34 Photoron@earthlink.net
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Ron Dague
A less wordy Question
Boy did I get carried away on my last post or ... (can you tell I went to Law School?!) Simply, let me try again: Why do I need a Y-valve at holding tank to switch between macerator and pump-out, why not a "Y" or "T"? Assume proper vented loops, shutting through hulls when not used, etc. And thanks everyone for the continued input! Ron
Boy did I get carried away on my last post or ... (can you tell I went to Law School?!) Simply, let me try again: Why do I need a Y-valve at holding tank to switch between macerator and pump-out, why not a "Y" or "T"? Assume proper vented loops, shutting through hulls when not used, etc. And thanks everyone for the continued input! Ron
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Y-valve isn't essential, but...
It's one more fail-safe in the system. With only a tee or a wye in the line, if the seacock is inadvertently left open, "ram" water while underway can come back into the tank--yes, through the macerator--and overflow it, even with a vented loop in the line (vented loops only break siphons...they can't stop water under pressure). Unless you're a RARE exception, you're not gonna do any preventive maintenance to your toilet...which means the joker valve will stay in it till it looks more like a large mouth bass than a duck's bill...which, in the event of an overflow due to ram water, will let your toilet overflow. So use a tee or a wye if you want to...but I've had too many encounters with Murphy to recommend it.
It's one more fail-safe in the system. With only a tee or a wye in the line, if the seacock is inadvertently left open, "ram" water while underway can come back into the tank--yes, through the macerator--and overflow it, even with a vented loop in the line (vented loops only break siphons...they can't stop water under pressure). Unless you're a RARE exception, you're not gonna do any preventive maintenance to your toilet...which means the joker valve will stay in it till it looks more like a large mouth bass than a duck's bill...which, in the event of an overflow due to ram water, will let your toilet overflow. So use a tee or a wye if you want to...but I've had too many encounters with Murphy to recommend it.
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Been there
Ron, why not eliminate the head Y-valve, too?
Send everything to the holding tank. When it gets full, you're already plumbed for direct discharge or pump-out. This eliminates (a) the Y-valve, (b) the T in the through-hull line, (c) the line between the two, and (d) any worries about the Y-valve being in the wrong position when you get inspected.
Send everything to the holding tank. When it gets full, you're already plumbed for direct discharge or pump-out. This eliminates (a) the Y-valve, (b) the T in the through-hull line, (c) the line between the two, and (d) any worries about the Y-valve being in the wrong position when you get inspected.
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Ernie Rodriguez
Ron, I had a T and a Y valve..
on the outlet side of the tank and a Y valve on the head as you plan, but you should see the confusion! Not to mention the length of hose required to interconnect everything together, which is now what I call the old "smelly hose", which is all going out. I noticed difficulty in emptying the tank with the T on the outlet side of the tank. It would take a lot of pumping before the disharge pump, which was a manual one, would begin to pump directly. I suspect a leak somewhere. As Peggy says, with the outlet of the tank being at the bottom of the tank, the hoses fill up to the same level as in the tank, and leads to more exposed hose for odor permeation. That is why I am going to install the second outlet fitting on the tank at the top as Peggy suggests, for the deck pump-out, and go directly to the macerator pump with a short hose on the other outlet fitting at the bottom of the tank. I also plan to go directly to the tank from the head and eliminate the Y valve and vented loop arangement that was in there. Good luck.
on the outlet side of the tank and a Y valve on the head as you plan, but you should see the confusion! Not to mention the length of hose required to interconnect everything together, which is now what I call the old "smelly hose", which is all going out. I noticed difficulty in emptying the tank with the T on the outlet side of the tank. It would take a lot of pumping before the disharge pump, which was a manual one, would begin to pump directly. I suspect a leak somewhere. As Peggy says, with the outlet of the tank being at the bottom of the tank, the hoses fill up to the same level as in the tank, and leads to more exposed hose for odor permeation. That is why I am going to install the second outlet fitting on the tank at the top as Peggy suggests, for the deck pump-out, and go directly to the macerator pump with a short hose on the other outlet fitting at the bottom of the tank. I also plan to go directly to the tank from the head and eliminate the Y valve and vented loop arangement that was in there. Good luck.
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Bryan C.
Discharge hysteria
I don't want to sound insensitive to environmental issues, but last week in Miami the main sewer line was ruptured that transfers waste from Miami Beach to Miami for processing. The high pressure pipe spewed 17,000 gallons per minute -- 25 million gallons per day -- of raw sewage into the Bay and areas around South Beach. It took a couple days before the sewage was diverted to an old network that pumps the sewage 2.5 miles out to the oceans while repairs are made to the ruptured main pipe. After 50 million gallons of raw sewage was dumped into the Bay, officials were saying that they did not expect any significant ecological problems, aside from perhaps a plankton bloom. They closed the beaches, as one official reported, because of the potentially dangerous chemicals that people flush down their toilets -- cleaners, tidy bowl, and lord knows what else -- in addition to human waste. Now, I don't know the actual statistics, but I'd guess that if every boater in the state of Florida rafted up in Biscayne Bay and dumped straight into the water, you wouldn't get 50 million gallons of sewage in a decade. If 50 million gallons of the stuff that is flushed down home toilets is expected to have a minimum effect on the environment, its hard for me to get excited about the miniscule amount that boaters actually contribute on any given weekend. So when I hear the hysteria about boaters wrecking the enivronment, it makes me wonder if it is fact or politics. Maybe there is an effect in some areas with many boaters and minimum water flow, but apparently not in Biscayne Bay.
I don't want to sound insensitive to environmental issues, but last week in Miami the main sewer line was ruptured that transfers waste from Miami Beach to Miami for processing. The high pressure pipe spewed 17,000 gallons per minute -- 25 million gallons per day -- of raw sewage into the Bay and areas around South Beach. It took a couple days before the sewage was diverted to an old network that pumps the sewage 2.5 miles out to the oceans while repairs are made to the ruptured main pipe. After 50 million gallons of raw sewage was dumped into the Bay, officials were saying that they did not expect any significant ecological problems, aside from perhaps a plankton bloom. They closed the beaches, as one official reported, because of the potentially dangerous chemicals that people flush down their toilets -- cleaners, tidy bowl, and lord knows what else -- in addition to human waste. Now, I don't know the actual statistics, but I'd guess that if every boater in the state of Florida rafted up in Biscayne Bay and dumped straight into the water, you wouldn't get 50 million gallons of sewage in a decade. If 50 million gallons of the stuff that is flushed down home toilets is expected to have a minimum effect on the environment, its hard for me to get excited about the miniscule amount that boaters actually contribute on any given weekend. So when I hear the hysteria about boaters wrecking the enivronment, it makes me wonder if it is fact or politics. Maybe there is an effect in some areas with many boaters and minimum water flow, but apparently not in Biscayne Bay.
Brian, unfortunately....
boaters are good targets for the breaucrats. This happens all over the country. I understand that the City of Port Huron, MI does this into the great lakes too. The city of Sacramento does this when they get too much rain. Their storm drains and the sewer system all gets treated in the same system until there is too much to treat, then they just do the direct discharge overboard. It would be very interesting to know how much of this REALLY goes on. I was my understanding that it is cheaper to pay fines than bring equipment up to standard. I guess my take on this issue is that we should always use a holding tank if possible. There is no reason not to protect our little piece of the environment. But when conditions dictate otherwise, you have to do what you have to do.
boaters are good targets for the breaucrats. This happens all over the country. I understand that the City of Port Huron, MI does this into the great lakes too. The city of Sacramento does this when they get too much rain. Their storm drains and the sewer system all gets treated in the same system until there is too much to treat, then they just do the direct discharge overboard. It would be very interesting to know how much of this REALLY goes on. I was my understanding that it is cheaper to pay fines than bring equipment up to standard. I guess my take on this issue is that we should always use a holding tank if possible. There is no reason not to protect our little piece of the environment. But when conditions dictate otherwise, you have to do what you have to do.
B
Brad Cavedo
Fish Do It, Don't They??
As the rockfish return to the Chesapeake Bay in huge numbers, dolphins and other large creatures too, what do you think they are doing in the water?? Tons and Tons of the stuff. And it hasn't been through a macerator, either.
As the rockfish return to the Chesapeake Bay in huge numbers, dolphins and other large creatures too, what do you think they are doing in the water?? Tons and Tons of the stuff. And it hasn't been through a macerator, either.
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