Mac26x leaky centerboard trunk

May 25, 2019
7
Macgregor 26X Chesapeake Bay
This may be TMI , and I apologize for leading you astray on the bolt location we both learned something new :(. As your hole is below waterline and into the ballast tank something like the repair in this video would be better than putty imho.

 
Dec 6, 2018
40
MacGregor 19 Lake Isabella
@rsvpasap Would a patching compound work on a 9/16 inch hole through 1/4 fiberglass centerboard trunk wall which I can reach only through 1 side? I would like to post pictures of my situation. But, can't figure out how. Any suggestions on that?
 

Jim26m

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Apr 3, 2019
579
Macgregor 26M Mobile AL
What you would buy at the auto/home store is likely a polyester resin. Products such as West System is an epoxy. Your boat may be a polyester layup, but since you are making a small repair in a spot subject to abuse, I'd lean toward epoxy. In fact, I might call West Systems and send them pics of your problem and get their recommendations on products and procedures.
You will get a lot of different suggestions in the forum environment, including mine:beer:. But I would probably go to a known source of expertise on it. You probably aren't enjoying this enough to want to do it again.:)
 

Jim26m

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Apr 3, 2019
579
Macgregor 26M Mobile AL
Small mirror in the slot and shoot from below? Borescope camera? Not sure what you have to work with.
 
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Dec 6, 2018
40
MacGregor 19 Lake Isabella
@Banner IV thanks for the link to these videos. Should help. How many Mac26x owners have had trouble with a centerboard pivot pin penetrating the ballast compartment. I was talking to a professional boat surveyor who said that due to the light build of the boat, and the jostling it experiences on the trailer, that it was not uncommon for the centerboard pivot pin to be shoved through the centerboard trunk. Is this indeed a common experience in the Mac26x community? Is there a way to avoid this? Shove foam wedges up between the trunk and the centerboard for travelling? A way to reinforce the area where the pin rests? Maybe a pin with a flat, washer like head on eachside betweed the each end of the pin and the fiberglass.
 

Jim26m

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Apr 3, 2019
579
Macgregor 26M Mobile AL
Upload images to your computer. Digital camera probably has a USB cable to connect to computer. Below the text block you're using to post in, to the right, there is a blue block to UPLOAD A FILE. Hit that, browse to your picture, and attach it. If you need more help, let me know.

If you have a smart phone, you can eliminate the file transfer and just post from your phone,
 
May 28, 2015
5
Macgregor 26X Seattle
Splash Zone is a two-part epoxy. When combined, the parts create a wet paste or putty. In my opinion, it should have no problem plugging up that hole. This is precisely what it's made to do. Please research as appropriate. Apply from beneath using a long skinny implement (a paint stirring stick cut in half the long way, a discarded batten, a piece of wooden moulding, something like that). Allow to dry for 4 hours. Do a second coat. Maybe do a third coat. But don't just goop it on because you can't reach up into the centerboard enclosure with a sander and this stuff dries seriously rock hard. Wear gloves and goggles, especially since you're underneath the application spot.

I had a leak where the mast support pole attaches to the top of the swingkeel trunk (under the black plastic covers). I actually suspect the hole was always there from the time of manufacture, but leaked only with rough waves, substantial healing or fast motoring. A single dollop of Splash Zone repaired the problem immediately. I'm totally comfortable working with fiberglass, but I think Splash Zone adheres better, doesn't drip or run, and can be applied to difficult to reach locations.

Other than coming out of the water for 3 days to be painted, my 26x has been in the water continuously for at least 2 years. No leaks.
 
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Dec 6, 2018
40
MacGregor 19 Lake Isabella
I am going to try to upload a document with pictures of my sitution. Thanks to all for helping!
 

Jim26m

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Apr 3, 2019
579
Macgregor 26M Mobile AL
You can upload a single picture file, or multiple picture files. You don't have to create a document. You may want to upload a single picture just to get the process dialed in. I know we are looking forward to seeing what you're up against. A picture almost always helps.

After reviewing the Splash Zone info above, if you determine you have a fairly small hole - without collateral damage around it, that stuff might be the way to go. Thanks to rsvpasap for the suggesting. Glassing up in the slot will be tough at best. Hopefully your damage fits a splash zone application.
 

Jim26m

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Apr 3, 2019
579
Macgregor 26M Mobile AL
Congratulations on the picture/document inserts!

Looks like a reasonably confined puncture. I'd use an epoxy product, and work some into the back side of the hole. You want to seal damage on the ballast tank side as well as the slot side. Looks like there are some loose fibers/strands on the back side. You may be able to get a dremel in there to get the loose stuff out before you start. Using a gloved finger, try to get epoxy around the hole to seal up the back side damage. Then, either an epoxy putty, or epoxy and thickener to fill the hole. It's low enough to get a dremel or die grinder to it to finish it up.

Hopefully an X owner will chime in, but if I remember correctly, the pin should be loose in the centerboard pivot hole. If the pin is tight in the hole, the centerboard will exert plenty of force to punch it through the hull. Something to check. The slot should keep the board aligned - not the pin.

Being a consummate tinkerer, I might epoxy a metal wear plate on either side of the slot, to give the pin something besides fiberglass to bear on. You may have to shorten the pin slightly to accommodate wear plates. Scuff the hull and the wear plates to give the epoxy a good bite. Just a thought.
 
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Dec 6, 2018
40
MacGregor 19 Lake Isabella
@Jim26m thanks for the continued input! I'm feeling more and more confident in what to do as we talk through it. I too had though of a metal wear plate. Does anyone see a down side to that? What about my idea to jam some foam blocks in between the centerboard and trunk for trailering to reduce baning about in rough riads. I intend to trailer alot!
 

Jim26m

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Apr 3, 2019
579
Macgregor 26M Mobile AL
Glad it's starting to materialize for you. Often times synergy can occur out of idea gumbo...

I think the foam cushioning is a fine idea if you can keep it secure in the slot on the highway, and remember to pull it before launching.

If you drop something out of your slot on the highway, it could turn into something really bad. The person following you might not know its foam and take catastrophic avoidance action.

Barring that issue, it sounds ok. I'd bet it clangs around quite a bit when motoring, sailing downwind, and at anchor. Maybe an X owner can give you some insight as to damage you might prevent using padding while trailering. I have a relatively light daggerboard clanking around in mine. Doesn't appear to be causing much wear.
 

CaptVR

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Nov 17, 2018
21
Macgregor 26X St.Petersburg, Fl.
Thank you for this advice. I have a1999 Mac26x. Definately a leak in the centerboard trunk. No leaks show on any visible part of the hull. But water pours out when I pull the boat out of the water with the gate valve closed. I do not have a threaded valve. Just the gate valve on the transom and a vent hole forward under the V-birth. How would I access the centerboard trunk to check and repair. Once I drop the centerboard, will I have enough room to reach up into the trunk to effect a repair of the fiberglass?
Number one, don't worry about repairs, until you see where the water is coming from. You will have to lift the boat off the trailer some to remove the centerboard. This might be a good idea just for checking the CB penent. After removing the CB, start filling the BT with a garden hose while looking up into the CB trunk to see exactly where the water is coming from. Now, you can determine a plan of action... Capt.Vince Rakstis, Ret.
I was a marine surveyor for 30 years, built six boats.
PS: If you see no visible damage inside or out, and you live in a cold climate, there is a chance that water was not totally evacuated from the tank and froze in the tank splitting the bond joint next to the keel. This rarely happens on trailered boats because there angled to drain on the ramp. But ones hauled on a travel lift, can easily trap water by the centerboard trunk because there lifted level. That area is the lowest when the boat is level. All can be fixed, no big worries. Oh, you can drill a small hole close to where you observe the water flow and use a cheap borescope as Horrible Freight sells and see the inside of the tank leak. If it is a seam that has pulled loose, a good force drying for a couple days and just injecting epoxy into the seam, could fix your problem. DO NOT USE POLYESTER, it will not bond properly, use epoxy and leave it flow into the area.
 
Dec 6, 2018
40
MacGregor 19 Lake Isabella
Number one, don't worry about repairs, until you see where the water is coming from. You will have to lift the boat off the trailer some to remove the centerboard. This might be a good idea just for checking the CB penent. After removing the CB, start filling the BT with a garden hose while looking up into the CB trunk to see exactly where the water is coming from. Now, you can determine a plan of action... Capt.Vince Rakstis, Ret.
I was a marine surveyor for 30 years, built six boats.
PS:
CaptVR Thank you for the advise! I have fixed the problem for now. The centerboard pivot pin had punched a hole in the ceterboard trunk opening the ballast tank to the open water. I plugged the hole with a fiberglass and epoxy patch. It is working well for now. I do appreciate the insight!

I have another modification issue that you might be able to give some info on with your years of experience. I find the Mac26x head compartment to be too confining and blocks access to the under cockpit "pizza oven" double berth on the starboard side.

I want to remove the head door, cut out the top half of the head walls, and sinks and replace with a curtain situation. My question is "Is that molded head compartment inner lining structural? Would I weaken the integrety of the hull or deck by removing 3/4 of it?" If not, I think this would open the boat up alot, give more room to use the head, and give decent access to the double berth under the cockpit.
Eager to hear you thoughts.
 

CaptVR

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Nov 17, 2018
21
Macgregor 26X St.Petersburg, Fl.
CaptVR Thank you for the advise! I have fixed the problem for now. The centerboard pivot pin had punched a hole in the ceterboard trunk opening the ballast tank to the open water. I plugged the hole with a fiberglass and epoxy patch. It is working well for now. I do appreciate the insight!

I have another modification issue that you might be able to give some info on with your years of experience. I find the Mac26x head compartment to be too confining and blocks access to the under cockpit "pizza oven" double berth on the starboard side.

I want to remove the head door, cut out the top half of the head walls, and sinks and replace with a curtain situation. My question is "Is that molded head compartment inner lining structural? Would I weaken the integrety of the hull or deck by removing 3/4 of it?" If not, I think this would open the boat up alot, give more room to use the head, and give decent access to the double berth under the cockpit.
Eager to hear you thoughts.
Hi, Vince here, I took a close look at mine, with the way it is put in there, I do not think it lends a great deal of structural strength. Taking out the front section by the door and the lower inboard sections are very thin frp layup, does not look or feel very structural, and looks as though it would come out relatively easily. But the back section and wash bowl area would be very difficult to get out, and the raw inner hull would be exposed. With the floor liner still in place with the ballast tank well still in place, I don't think you are going to gain what you think you are, especially for the work involved. I've looked this over myself, and elected to leave it as is. I have been pondering cutting down the ballast tank tower and glassing it all in, like the later model 26x's and moving the vent / fill forward to the v-berth as on the later model 26x's. Then putting a folding up SS steps so you have a wide open lower entry across the whole front. I was planning on a battery bank for solar on the outboard starboard side of the aft birth. Also putting a hanging locker on that side, and making that aft bunk narrower to maybe a twin size berth. If you would like to chat, my phone is 727-515-5021, e-mail me your number so I can expect it. I get 5-10 spams a day, so I vary rarely answer long distance numbers unless I know the number. Have a great day, CaptVR "Vince" My regular e-mail CaptVRakstis@yahoo.com
 
Dec 6, 2018
40
MacGregor 19 Lake Isabella
Thank You CaptVR. My wife chimed in also, saying she liked the enclosed head. So, that may trump all! I may get some time to call. I'm moored at Lake Isabella, a small isolated mountain reservoir 50miles east of Bakersfield 100 miles North of Los Angeles Ca. Hoping to sail to Catalina some day. Once I figure out the sailing qualities of my Mac26x. What about you? What part of the country are you in.