Mac 26S Trailer on a long haul?

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Aug 27, 2006
126
C&C 29 MK-1 Mandeville (Lake Pontchartrain), LA
Hey guys, quick trailering question: I just bought a 1991 MacG 26S in Houston and will drive/trailer it from Houston, TX to Kennebunkport, Maine for the Summers and then back to Texas for the Winters. It's a leisurely 4 day, 2,000 mile trip one way. Question: Should I consider adding a 2nd axle to the trailer for these bi-annual long trips, or are these boat trailers designed for this, as long as wheels & bearings are all good, tire pressure, etc, etc.? Would the expense of making it a tandem trailer be safer and worth it? I hope to hear from someone with more experience that I and someone who has trailered MacGregors over long distances.
 
May 4, 2005
4,062
Macgregor 26d Ft Lauderdale, Fl
2 axles are better

the trailers are borderline over weighted, as is, before you load up a seasons worth of stuff in the boat. (& I'm betting you'll have more than normal in the boat for the migration) I'd add the 2nd axle for safety. as you already know a blowout at speed would be very dramatic on a single axle trl. I'm guessing the new axle will go behind the existing axle... anyone add a second axle?
 

MikeH

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Jan 7, 2004
153
Hunter 260 Perrysburg, OH
I went from Long Island to Toledo

with a 26' sailboat on a tandem trailer a couple of years ago, Kevin. The tires were full and the bearings were good, and with a tandem axle I felt safe on the road. Even then my top speed with a Yukon XL (5.9L) was about 65MPH. Faster than that and I sometimes felt I couldn't put enough stopping distance between me and the folks that would cut me off <grin>. I'd definitely recommend a tandem. If you're adding it, I'd add it behind the existing axle to get the boat's center of gravity forward of the wheels. From my experience with other trailers, if the C/G is too far back you can get wagging of the trailer at higher speeds. Good luck, Mike
 
E

Ed

Get a new trailer

Look at it this way. You have a 15 year old trailer with unknown maintenance. No trailer brakes. The Mac trailers are adequate, but not really meant for heavy duty trips. I would try to find a good used tandem trailer with surge brakes. That would put the safety odds in your favor.
 
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John S

Trailering a Mac

I just thought I'd express another side of this question. I have an 87 D model that I have trailered about 2500-3000 miles this year alone. I have the stock, single axle trailer that I modified by moving the axle 12 inches aft. There is something to be said for simplicity. A single axle will do the job as well. Yes, one must be concerned with the load, especially in the stock axle position configuration. I have never had a blow out, but I can say that I have a lot of toungue weight, and with a 3/4 ton truck to pull it, the trailer is going to follow me no matter what happens to the tires. I have a few recommendations: I grease the bearings every time I pull the boat out of the ramp, and I also grease them at fuel stops. I have a spare tire up forward on the frame. I have a tow vehicle with a braking system that can stop the boat without drama. If you have the extra money to by a tandem trailer with brakes, by all means, do so. But the stock trailer will work for long hauls, with a few mods and a good tow vehicle. John S Boise
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,497
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Brakes?

You guys keep bringing up brakes. Doesn't the '91 trailer have surge brakes? My '92 does. For added insurance, you can install higher load-rated tires - The load rating is a number that correlates to the maximum rated load for that tire. A higher number indicates that the tire has a higher load capacity. The rating "105," for example, corresponds to a load capacity of 2039 pounds (924.87 kg). A separate note on the tire indicates the load rating at a given inflation pressure. From the Mac manual: NEVER LOAD THE BOAT AND TRAILER MORE THAN THE AMOUNT SHOWN ON THE CERTIFICATION DECAL NEAR THE HITCH. ON THE LEFT (PORT) SIDE OF YOUR TRAILER (2750 POUNDS)
 
C

Chris (Mac 26S)

The other side...

I agree with John. The main issue with Mac trailers seems to be "roadability" and blown tires. Proper tongue weight and it tows perfectly - plus the reduced sway is what prevents blown tires. If a tire does blow, proper tongue weight will ensure it safely tracks behind the tow vehicle. Speaking of tires, some brands will give trouble regardless of the trailer they are on. I researched many RV forums and (for example) found that Carlisle brand seem to have a short life. A few people I know can personally attest to this! My biggest complaint is the lack of trailer brakes - or the lack of a tow vehicle that can effectivly compensate. When it's wet, our Ford Windstar easily locks it's wheels - but doesn't slow down! Major "pucker factor" when I drove through Toronto 4 times this summer (Toronto and Boston compete for the worse traffic congestion in North America). I'll put my money into trailer brakes and replacing my two tires more often. If I had four to replace, I bet it wouldn't happen until they start to blow! Chris
 
C

Chris (Mac 26S)

Brakes for Justin...

Hi Justin, It seems that trailer brakes were an "option". Our 92S doesn't have them - and I wish it did (see my other post)! Didn't bother me until I stopped moderately hard on wet pavement - real eye opener... Chris
 
V

vwjon

Brakes

If you want to add brakes check out the Tiedown disc conversion here. Everything you need for $369.
 
May 4, 2005
4,062
Macgregor 26d Ft Lauderdale, Fl
brakes and salt water

If you think you need brakes, SS disks are the only way to go for houston/maine (assuming you use the ocean). you can use drums in fresh water, but they still need maintenance. I disagree on the tire blowout. I think theres a pretty good chance of loosing the boat and having it skid across the hwy. (at speed, with a single axle) jack knife trailers are typically due to low tongue weight, and often when the trailer jacknifes, the tow vehicle rolls too. -very ugly... buddy bearings, spare tire(s), new axle, tires no older than 8 yrs, and maybe the AAA tow rider trailer brakes are overrated IMHO. slow down, and brake in a straight line. its interstate mostly, shouldn't have a problem with tailgating.
 
Aug 27, 2006
126
C&C 29 MK-1 Mandeville (Lake Pontchartrain), LA
Thanks!

Thanks for all the input, this is what makes these sites golden, especially to new Trailer Sailors like me! I might just look into adding the 2nd axle behind the existing one. I should be able to measure, order an axle and have a welder install, w/o too much expense. I think the money required would be worth it, considering the my bi-annual 2,000 mile-long treks. KB
 
S

Steve Paul

I agree with Rod

Kevin, MRBILL is one of my most respected posters. That said I disagree with him on the need for a tandem trailer. YOu double your risk and certainly your cost. I've had several of both types of trailers and they each have their postive and negative points. If you put on good type T trailer tires that will handle the heat of the road and use good bearing and lube control you should have no problems with a single axle trailer. The tandem does let you tow more weight but also doubles the cost and the risk of a problem. Tandems also scuff the tires when you back or turn tight radius turns causing wear on the tires. Towing problems usually are caused by poor equipment or infrequent maintenance of tires and bearings. Trailers also suffer bruises when you fail to miss that hole or trash in the road. Overloading is also a big problem, especially for Macs. The Mac trailers are marginal, I think everyone will agree with that. In that regard MRBILL is right but I'm not sure I'd want to make a tandem out of a Mac trailer. Hope this helps. I believe with good tires and bearings you should have no trouble with a 2 or 3000 mile tow, just use good judgement on speed and following so you don't have to make that scary quick stop. Best to you, Steve P.
 
Aug 27, 2006
126
C&C 29 MK-1 Mandeville (Lake Pontchartrain), LA
So, stay with single axle, but think SAFETY?

Again thanks for your wealth of knowledge. So, sounds like I can stay with the Mac single axle, but do the following: 1- Up-load my Dodge Durango with gear, don't overload the boat. 2- Proper trailer tires, proper air press, proper lube/bearings, proper speed. 3- Save the money on not doing the tandem and invest it into the trailer. 4- Add a little weight to the tongue to keep it down. Would most agree that if I do the above, I should be OK for my 2,000 trek? Kev
 
R

Ron

Spare Bearings!

Each year we tow the 26X from Alabama to PEI, Canada to Alabama, and then to Brownsville, Texas, and finally to Alabama. Annual mileage approx. 6500 miles. We always carry a spare set of wheel bearings - just in case. Last year fitted the SS brakes to our single axle trailer, and just love them. At every stop I feel the rubber temp. as well as bearing temp. all round. Every morning I ensure 50 PSI in the tires. At the beginning and end of each road trip I put a few squirts of good marine bearing grease into each bearing buddy. Ron
 
M

mrbill

spare hub -and- bearings

If I were towing that far, every year, I'd still go for the 2 axle... not that much more money, and a lot more insurance if something goes bad. (IMHO of course!) I'm encouraged to hear Rod saved the rig with a trailer tire blow out. (Rod, was it a tire tread de-lamination or sudden loss of pressure? -could you maintain lanes?) my guess is Kevin will stuff everything he can in the boat when he moves back and forth, greatly overloading the single axle. (I would!) (fwiw,) I would get a prepped wheel hub assmbly, with bearings, already greased, seals and all. little more $$ but much quicker swap on side of road. (think mine was $50) (I had a hub explode/melt on a old trailer. once.) lastly, I'm thinking if you had a wheel/hub failure, you could still limb along to the next gas station, or motel, and make repairs on your terms. (instead of the side of the road in the rain, at night, with hungry kids...) best of luck!
 
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Ramblin' Rod - SeaQuell - Mac 26D

Single Axle Tire Blowout @ 70 mph

Every trailersailor's nightmare right? Well relax! We had two this year. So there we were, driving north on the Florida Turnpike. It's late afternoon, around 5:30 pm. We're late, on our way to dinner with a friend of 10 years whom we've never met; a fellow trailer sailor we know only through the internet. I'm pushing it, about 70 mph, and I notice a rumble from astern. "Damn, I got a bearing going", I think to myself. "Oh well, I'll get to my friends house, we'll eat dinner, head to a motel, and change the bearing in the parking lot in the morning." 15 minutes later, with no additional warning... BANG! I look in the starboard side view mirror and rubber is flying everywhere. There's a weird metallic sound from astern. I put my signal on, take my foot off the gas, and at about 20 mph, pull off gradually onto the shoulder. The tire sidewall is blown out laterally across the tire in about 3 places. The tread is in one long strip laying on the highway, about 300 yards back. The license plate is hanging and the tailight is smashed. There are rubber smears up the sides of the hull. The aft half of the fender is folded underneath almost doubled on itself. The rim is scratched around the edge, but no major dings or dents. The second occurence, a couple months later, was very similar (but at about 60 mph) and with absolutely no warning whatsoever. Before this experience, my expectation was that with a blowout like this, the vehicle would suddenly veer to that side, and you'd have to radically counter steer, hopefully maintaining control. In reality, a trailer that tracks just fine on tires, will track just fine on the bare rim. While it's certainly an undesirable experience, it didn't make me think that I should go out a buy another axle. Another brand of tires maybe, but not another axle. Tires were 4 years old with about 6000 miles on them, 15" special trailer radials. Tire pressure at 2:00 pm before leaving the Marina was 50 psi cold, (sidewall rating), with no prior problem maintaining pressure. At about, 4:00 pm, I had tested bearing and sidewall temperature with my hand, and didn't notice any difference from any other gas stop. My conclusion? The tires had a defect that caused the tread to suddenly seperate from the steel belts, despite being properly inflated, well within load rating, at moderate/high speed, on a relatively warm day.
 
May 4, 2005
4,062
Macgregor 26d Ft Lauderdale, Fl
Thanks Rod! - great writeup (of tire failure) !

Hey Rod, thanks for the education! -Looks like I'm ALL WRONG about the need for double axles! -few thoughs: cold pressure at 50 will raise to about 53-55 hot, and may exceed the max pressure. (?) speed = heat, faster you go, more heat is generated. (slower/cooler has less chances of failues, but on a long trip, that could add hours....)
 
C

Chris - Mac 26S

Tire pressure

The sidewall pressure is the "cold" rating. The tire is designed to exceed this as it heats up. I tried a little experiment a few weeks ago. Ran one tire at 45 psi and the other at 50. The 50 psi tire ran noticeably cooler. Resist the urge to run less than the rated cold pressure... Proper tongue weight also translates to cooler running as the trailer tracks straighter and there is less sidewall flexing. Underinflation and excessive sidewall flex will overheat the tire - which will definitely cause the pressure to build much higher than normal - and - boom! Also, proper tongue weight is what keeps it tracking the tow vehicle, if a tire does blow. I've heard that 10 percent of the all up weight on the tongue is the minimum - and more is better, providing you don't overload the tow vehicle. I've read and heard all the above numerous times on many trailer/RV forums. Rod's experience is typical of what most experience when a tire blows. If people were losing their Mac's every time a tire blows - we would have heard about it from the "Mac haters". Chris
 
S

Steve Paul

MRBILL you're not wrong !

MRBILL is not wrong, it just seems that trailoring is about many subsets of important details. Tandem axle trailers or tri-axle trailers are built that way to accomodate more weight. The addition of extra axles really adds to the cost. My trailer weighs 3K lbs by itself so the axles, (mine are rubber torsion), the electric breaks and oiled bearings plus some very expensive 15" wide ass trailer tires x 4 means my trailer costs more that many used Macs. I'm only suggesting that keep your equipment in good working order, don't assume anything regarding condition of tires, bearings, etc. and then perhaps you'll be lucky and have no trailering issues. I must say do all the right things and you'll still have problems, it's the nature of the beast. The best thing we can all do is limit the damage and be prepared for the unknown if that is possible. Good discussion guys, we all learn from these talks. Steve P.
 
R

Ron

Kevin lucks out on this one

You sure got your moneys worth on this one, Kevin. Good luck Ron
 
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