My 1991 26S that I just bought needs a replacement rub rail. From what I've seen on the internet, they seem to cost about $4/foot. Times 26 ft x 2 = a lot! Does anyone know of a good inexpensive source or ideas? Thanks, Kevin
Mac 26S replacement Rub rail?
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Rub rail
Kevin, Two years ago I had to replace my rub rail on the 26X. The price Blue Water Yachts quoted was a lot more attractive than what you have been told(I forget the exact amount), plus lots of over the phone assistance. Ron
Kevin, Two years ago I had to replace my rub rail on the 26X. The price Blue Water Yachts quoted was a lot more attractive than what you have been told(I forget the exact amount), plus lots of over the phone assistance. Ron
Thanks
Thanks, I didn't think to check with them. I left an email inquiry, so I'll see what they come back with. Hopefully cheaper than $6/foot!
Thanks, I didn't think to check with them. I left an email inquiry, so I'll see what they come back with. Hopefully cheaper than $6/foot!
Found it!
Thanks for the advice on BWY. I emailed them and they quoted me the rubrail for my 26S at $1/foot, which is a lot better than $5 or $7 elsewhere. They come in 50' sections. Kevin
Thanks for the advice on BWY. I emailed them and they quoted me the rubrail for my 26S at $1/foot, which is a lot better than $5 or $7 elsewhere. They come in 50' sections. Kevin
Rub rail "type" question
Kevin, Is your rub rail the "U" channel type that snaps over the flange bolts - or the type that slides into an aluminum extrusion? I've seen both types... Mine is the "U" channel type, needs repacing, but DEFINITELY not worth more than $1/foot. Thanks, Chris
Kevin, Is your rub rail the "U" channel type that snaps over the flange bolts - or the type that slides into an aluminum extrusion? I've seen both types... Mine is the "U" channel type, needs repacing, but DEFINITELY not worth more than $1/foot. Thanks, Chris
"U" Rub rail and reply from BWY
Chris, Mine is the 26S with a "U" channel and it has about 5%-10% of the surface area damaged with small gouges and tears. My concern is water getting past it and into the deck/hull joints. Most prices on the interent were $5+ per foot until I contacted Blue Water yachts and I was very happy to get a quote for $1/ft. My only hesitation is the extreme difficulty (from waht it sounds) of my DIY replacing it. I can easily afford $50 to get a new one, but not sure I can do it. See their helpful reply to me below: "Kevin, the rub rail is extremely difficult to replace. You only need 50', it is supposed to be stretched the rest of the distance. You need to start at the middle at the bow and stretch around the boat. Also you need to do this when the rub rail is covered with sealant ( 3M 5200 ) that is dripping all over the place. We use our fork lift to do the stretching / pulling. We have only done a couple of these and it is very difficult to do, very messy too. Make sure you have 4 or 5 gun size tubes of sealant and a couple gallons of alcohol to clean up. This does not come with instructions as most people do not attempt this and just have it done. You can call us to order at 800 688-8626 Thanks" In lieu of this, I will probably seal the tears/gaps/holes with black Marine silicone sealant and be satisfied until I can afford to hire a boat yard to do it for me, and then I'll order it from BWY and bring it to them instead of letting them order it. Anyone else out there ever order one and replce themselves? I'm thinking what if I do not (get a forklift) stretch it, but use about 56 ft of it and glue it and seal it w/o the super-human stretch? Any ideas? Kevin B.
Chris, Mine is the 26S with a "U" channel and it has about 5%-10% of the surface area damaged with small gouges and tears. My concern is water getting past it and into the deck/hull joints. Most prices on the interent were $5+ per foot until I contacted Blue Water yachts and I was very happy to get a quote for $1/ft. My only hesitation is the extreme difficulty (from waht it sounds) of my DIY replacing it. I can easily afford $50 to get a new one, but not sure I can do it. See their helpful reply to me below: "Kevin, the rub rail is extremely difficult to replace. You only need 50', it is supposed to be stretched the rest of the distance. You need to start at the middle at the bow and stretch around the boat. Also you need to do this when the rub rail is covered with sealant ( 3M 5200 ) that is dripping all over the place. We use our fork lift to do the stretching / pulling. We have only done a couple of these and it is very difficult to do, very messy too. Make sure you have 4 or 5 gun size tubes of sealant and a couple gallons of alcohol to clean up. This does not come with instructions as most people do not attempt this and just have it done. You can call us to order at 800 688-8626 Thanks" In lieu of this, I will probably seal the tears/gaps/holes with black Marine silicone sealant and be satisfied until I can afford to hire a boat yard to do it for me, and then I'll order it from BWY and bring it to them instead of letting them order it. Anyone else out there ever order one and replce themselves? I'm thinking what if I do not (get a forklift) stretch it, but use about 56 ft of it and glue it and seal it w/o the super-human stretch? Any ideas? Kevin B.
Kevin - easier method to install the rail
Even though I reinstalled the original, it had "shrunk" back to it's original length - and I did manage to simplify installation. First off - DO NOT COVER IT IN 5200!!!! 5200 is a mother of all adhesives and you will not be able to remove it again in one piece. I won't even get into the mess! To stretch the rail back on, make a mark where the bow should be. Use the old rail to figure out where this should be as it's not at half the length. The port side is about 24 inchs shorter. Attach the port stern side with the sheet metal screw. Wait for a hot and sunny day. This is important - the rail needs to be warm along it's entire length. Hairdryers won't cut it here... PULL from the bow mark - straight out from the stern until you have stretched the rail about 6 feet. Walk forward towards the bow as a helper "slaps" the rail on with the palm of their hand. As you approach the bow, pull more or less to get the length correct. The rail will expand/contract along it's length and make this fairly easy. Same to go around the bow and down the other side. The secret is a hot sunny day and keeping continual tension from the END that you are working towards (the bow mark or the starboard end). Now - about that sealant. The original assembly has a dab of butyl at each screw head and nut. I didn't use any sealant when I reinstalled. The thing is under tension and the little "flaps" on the inside grab the bolt head and nut. If you want, you can easily pull the flap up and put a dab on each head - just do it in the sun on a hot day and it'll be pliable enough. I mentioned butyl sealant. You can use 4000/4200 etc - just don't use silicone. Silicone will not stick to cured silicone, so it makes it a pain for the next time. Some more advice - the hull/deck joint is a traditional leakage problem with our boats. Force 5200 (yes 5200 this time) into the joint and snug up the bolts. Then rub a coating of 5200 on the edge - check the photo gallery/Macgregor project on my site for pictures. You can have a dry boat... I see that you're in Houston - should be able to find that "hot sunny day" there... Chris
Even though I reinstalled the original, it had "shrunk" back to it's original length - and I did manage to simplify installation. First off - DO NOT COVER IT IN 5200!!!! 5200 is a mother of all adhesives and you will not be able to remove it again in one piece. I won't even get into the mess! To stretch the rail back on, make a mark where the bow should be. Use the old rail to figure out where this should be as it's not at half the length. The port side is about 24 inchs shorter. Attach the port stern side with the sheet metal screw. Wait for a hot and sunny day. This is important - the rail needs to be warm along it's entire length. Hairdryers won't cut it here... PULL from the bow mark - straight out from the stern until you have stretched the rail about 6 feet. Walk forward towards the bow as a helper "slaps" the rail on with the palm of their hand. As you approach the bow, pull more or less to get the length correct. The rail will expand/contract along it's length and make this fairly easy. Same to go around the bow and down the other side. The secret is a hot sunny day and keeping continual tension from the END that you are working towards (the bow mark or the starboard end). Now - about that sealant. The original assembly has a dab of butyl at each screw head and nut. I didn't use any sealant when I reinstalled. The thing is under tension and the little "flaps" on the inside grab the bolt head and nut. If you want, you can easily pull the flap up and put a dab on each head - just do it in the sun on a hot day and it'll be pliable enough. I mentioned butyl sealant. You can use 4000/4200 etc - just don't use silicone. Silicone will not stick to cured silicone, so it makes it a pain for the next time. Some more advice - the hull/deck joint is a traditional leakage problem with our boats. Force 5200 (yes 5200 this time) into the joint and snug up the bolts. Then rub a coating of 5200 on the edge - check the photo gallery/Macgregor project on my site for pictures. You can have a dry boat... I see that you're in Houston - should be able to find that "hot sunny day" there... Chris
Anchoring the rub rail?
Chris, Great website, I enjoyed the pics and after reading your email, I'm reconsidering doing the rail myself. One question I had was what anchors the rub rail at teh start and finish? Basically would the process (in simple terms, not in specifics) be: 1 - Remove the old rub rail and chalking. 2 - Clean the deck/hull groove. 3 - Re-tighten bolts 4 - Chalk the groove with 5200 5 - Anchor one end with ??? 5 - ?? Mount the replacement rub rail and squirt in 4200 to seal and as an adhesive.??? 6 - Complete by anchoring the tail end. 7 - Re-chalk the top and bottom where the rail meets the fiberglass??? Thanks, Kevin
Chris, Great website, I enjoyed the pics and after reading your email, I'm reconsidering doing the rail myself. One question I had was what anchors the rub rail at teh start and finish? Basically would the process (in simple terms, not in specifics) be: 1 - Remove the old rub rail and chalking. 2 - Clean the deck/hull groove. 3 - Re-tighten bolts 4 - Chalk the groove with 5200 5 - Anchor one end with ??? 5 - ?? Mount the replacement rub rail and squirt in 4200 to seal and as an adhesive.??? 6 - Complete by anchoring the tail end. 7 - Re-chalk the top and bottom where the rail meets the fiberglass??? Thanks, Kevin
Rub rail anchoring
You need to remove the fibreglass trim around the motor well. Just drill out the rivets... This will expose the ends of the rub rail where you will see a stainless steel screw and washer anchoring it to the boat on each end. Not high tech, but effective. In terms of the "sequence, after you clean the crud fro the joint, work some 5200m into any apparent gaps in the joint - let set a few days and them snug up the bolts. After that, smear a layer of 5200 on the exterior of the joint. The stuff sticks like nothing you've ever used - the joint will be waterproof. Let this dry/set up before putting the rub rail back on. Personally, I won't add further caulk/sealant when I install the rail. If I was. I'd just pull it up by hand and put a dab of 4200 or butyl on each bolt head and nut - basically just "work along" the length. If you do this in the sun, the rail is easily "workable" while in place. Also, while you have the motor well trim off, check for gaps that need to be sealed. This has been a source of water leakage into the aft storage locker for some people. Chris
You need to remove the fibreglass trim around the motor well. Just drill out the rivets... This will expose the ends of the rub rail where you will see a stainless steel screw and washer anchoring it to the boat on each end. Not high tech, but effective. In terms of the "sequence, after you clean the crud fro the joint, work some 5200m into any apparent gaps in the joint - let set a few days and them snug up the bolts. After that, smear a layer of 5200 on the exterior of the joint. The stuff sticks like nothing you've ever used - the joint will be waterproof. Let this dry/set up before putting the rub rail back on. Personally, I won't add further caulk/sealant when I install the rail. If I was. I'd just pull it up by hand and put a dab of 4200 or butyl on each bolt head and nut - basically just "work along" the length. If you do this in the sun, the rail is easily "workable" while in place. Also, while you have the motor well trim off, check for gaps that need to be sealed. This has been a source of water leakage into the aft storage locker for some people. Chris
Thanks
Thanks Chris, I've been up in Kennebunkport, Maine and away from my new 26S back in Houston, so that's why I was asking questions w/o having the boat in front of me. Finally back in Texas next week, so I think I'll take a deep breath and give it a try. I'll let you know how it came out. Kevin
Thanks Chris, I've been up in Kennebunkport, Maine and away from my new 26S back in Houston, so that's why I was asking questions w/o having the boat in front of me. Finally back in Texas next week, so I think I'll take a deep breath and give it a try. I'll let you know how it came out. Kevin
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