Mac 22 window replacement options

MrMikey64 · Sep 25, 2010

You could always try and make them yourself...
I would suggest a 3/16" thick or so smoked or tinted lexan for the job - provides for a nice tint (not the rosy pink of many Macs), and should be easy enough to work with.
If you are able to carefully remove one of the windows, you should be able to trace a workable pattern onto the new piece.
I'm still looking at doing the same thing on my Mac25. I've got the supplies, but haven't quite taken the plunge - yet.

What year are you talking about? Earlier years had metal frames, while later years I believe were fastened with a few screws and adhesive.

I could not find any decent supply at the local hardware stores, so I ordered it online through eBay (vendor = popdisplays). Just did a search on 3/16 lexan...

The other alternative, like so many other items, is to find some used windows from a scrapped vessel - but I would think they'd be in pretty bad shape.

timebandit · Sep 25, 2010

I got mine from Idasailor, but they don't show them anymore.:cry::cry::cry:

You might give them a call.:dance:

MrMikey64 · Sep 26, 2010

brokenfeather said:
Ours is an 82. 4 screws and sealant. One cracked across from top to bottom in-line with two of the screws. Thanks for the heads up on the ebay supplier. I'll check him out.
Don

So long as you can remove the old one, should be an easy trace then.
The PO on my 25 cut out the sides and tried to make new windows using clear plexi from Home Depot. It ended up drying out and cracking in several places. The new stuff looks easy to work with, and the privacy will be welcome.

timebandit · Sep 26, 2010

Easy way to cut out old windows is to use a guitar string (not bass).

Attach each end to a wood dowl and saw through the sealant just under the window.

This trick works well for deck hardware too.

oreana123 · Sep 26, 2010

The windows on my 26D were mostly for show, an arrow shape glued over small rectangular holes. If you want more light and openess below in your Mac, and while you have the windows out, consider routing out the window holes. Even 1 inch all around makes a big difference.
For those who have a porta potty area, the forward right window on my boat was entirely fake, evcen though there was a plexi cover, there was no hole. Since I wanted air and light, I installed a 18 inch opening portlight, cutting the hull and liner with a jig saw.
There is a 26D that sails Yellowstone Lake that has non-opening portlights in the vee berth area, BELOW the rub rail. It really gives a lot more light up in that dark cavelike area.
If you are buying material for your windows, consider screwing and glueing a piece over the front hatch. The hatch removes easily to work on, and the extra light is amazing.
While on the subject, on my own D, I installed opening portlights in the foot well of the cockpit, ventilating the aft berth. I also have an opening portlight on the coaming to the right of the companionway, ventilating what is sometimes the galley.
Also, I'd like to comment on the effectiveness of using silicone seal on the windows at the factory all those years ago: man that stuff did its job. Removing the windows without breaking them is not easy. My windows never leaked and I am sure they transferred the stresses on the hull right on by... John S

rgranger · Sep 26, 2010

BroakenFeather

I found a V222 for $800 this spring. You can imagine how bad it must have looked if the owner gave it up for $800 w/trailer and 5 sails.
Anyway I took EVERYTHING off of the boat, sanded and repainted. Including the windows. It is no biggie. Just get our the screwdriver and take them off. On my V222 the plexiglass was held in place with an aluminum frame. The frame was caulked with plumbers putty. The glass just popped out once I had the frame off. Jig out a new piece of plexiglass. The frame will hide any sloppy cuts. New glass in my windows and for the front hatch is on my list for spring.

timebandit · Sep 26, 2010

But if they are frameless and just held in by glue ya gotta be cool.

Looking at the world through rose colored glasses.

rgranger · Sep 27, 2010

Hey Broken Feather

Timebandits solution looks even easier than the aluminum frames. You can try practice cutting with a piece of plywood and when you are confident you can get the cut to look good ... go for it on the expensive plexiglass. If you are ambitious, you could router out an oak frame (just for looks) and through bolt that around the glass. It would look sharp (and salty).

Have fun and post pics if you make the change. I'd like some ideas for my windows as well.

timebandit · Sep 27, 2010

The windows do that from age and the sun and the they are stock and came without frames.

Muntasel · Sep 27, 2010

Hello there, my windows were cracked too I replaced the glass with this material found at Lowes (Optix), it's a little thicker than the original and it's not tinted but it can be cut easily, i used a circular saw with a regular blade (new) and it made a clear cut with no cracks, you basically have 4 straight cuts and then round the edges with a belt sander. The pieces came out exactly like the originals. The problem was replacing the original seals, i searched the net and some local glass shops but unsuccesfully so I opted for another cheap solution, using butyil tape, regular window sealant, and silicon. The pictures attached are self explanatory....Not the best solution I admit but after 6 months no leaks.

Mac 22 window replacement options

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