M-25xpb Bleeding

Sep 23, 2009
1,475
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
I know I'm showing my newbie ignorance but I'm not sure from the manual how to bleed the Universal M-25xpb. Do you activate the fuel pump by just depressing the pre-heat button or do you crank the engine by depressing both?
If you have to press both, how do you stop the engine from actually starting?
Is there a easy way to put a jumper on the fuel pump to just activate that from near the engine?
Never did this before and fear blowing up the whole thing.
Thanks for any advice!
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,047
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
I know I'm showing my newbie ignorance but I'm not sure from the manual how to bleed the Universal M-25xpb. Do you activate the fuel pump by just depressing the pre-heat button or do you crank the engine by depressing both?
If you have to press both, how do you stop the engine from actually starting?
Is there a easy way to put a jumper on the fuel pump to just activate that from near the engine?
Never did this before and fear blowing up the whole thing.
Larry, first it won’t blow up. Second, the M25XPB should be self-bleeding. It doesn't appear to have a knurled knob on the injection pump, from the M25XPB engine parts available on this very website (I found it by Googling M25XPB!!! - this is a great site!:)). You do NOT, ever, need to crack injectors on that engine. More good news. :)

Fuel pump operation: It all depends on how it’s wired. In most cases, for the M25, M25XP and M25XPB engines, the fuel pump is simply connected to the ignition switch, so when you turn it on, it runs all the time.

You should also never need to push both the start button and the glow plugs (whether energized by a key switch or by a button). The operation is: hold glow plugs, release glow plugs, push start.

Newer engines have a more complicated operation for the fuel pump. That is covered in the links included here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.msg41829.html#msg41829

Please read the links in that post.

While it says for M35 engines, it is applicable to all engines that have the dual fuel pump parallel wiring.

The way to tell on your engine is this: Does the fuel pump start when you turn the ignition switch? If not, does it only turn on when you hit the glow plug button? Then it will shut off until the engine starts and restart when the engine is running (when the oil pressure comes up and closes that circuit). This is detailed and explained in the link.

If so, the “workaround” is to provide a separate power source to the fuel pump with a simple toggle switch I/O to run the fuel pump when you want to. Also discussed in that link.


If it runs when just the ignition switch is turned on, you have it made, pretty simple. In fact, I installed a fuel pump shutoff I/O toggle switch in my engine compartment so I could shut off the fuel pump when I was bleeding the secondary filter on the engine without having to jump up into the cockpit ignition switch.

You may also be interested in this:

Bleeding 101 http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6377.0.html

Also has lots of links.

Also, our C34 Tech wiki has a ton of M25 series engine information:

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine

Good luck, it’s a lot easier than you think!
 
Sep 23, 2009
1,475
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
Dear Stu,
Thank you for all the great tips, info and C34 links. It will take me a while to digest everything in the great links. (I really admire the C34 group.)
My operators manual ion 2010 engine is not clear on several things but it does state that the preheat button has to be depressed to operate the pump and held down till oil pressures rises to keep the pump going. There is a bleed screw on the secondary filter but I just re-read it and finally noticed that it says the engine is "virtually self priming" so hopefully it does not need a bleed after a filter change.
Thank you again.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,047
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Dear Stu,
1. ...but it does state that the preheat button has to be depressed to operate the pump and held down till oil pressures rises to keep the pump going.

2. There is a bleed screw on the secondary filter but I just re-read it and finally noticed that it says the engine is "virtually self priming" so hopefully it does not need a bleed after a filter change.
You're very welcome, glad we could help.

1. That's going to be part of your "reading list" because there's a simple workaround discussed in detail in one of the links. Read up some more and then let's discuss. IMHO, it's an unnecessary complication to a simple system, but you must confirm how it works first, regardless of what the manual say, based on what I wrote in my earlier post.

2. The nut on the secondary filter is necessary for bleeding that secondary filter, but Ken Heyman, in the Bleeding 101 topic/links, discusses how he bled his system without even touching that nut. That's why I gave you all that stuff. :) However, that nut is ONLY for that filter, and is NOT the knurled knob which is mentioned. From my research on your engine (from that Google search which led us right back here to download the M25XPB parts manual), you don't have that knob at the injector pump. The M25 and M25XP engines do. Different engines...

Be very careful, please about using the glow plugs to energize the fuel pump for the extended time you'd need to bleed. Maine Sail has warned against this, because extended run time on the plugs could burn them out. Again, keep reading, it's all there. Any questions, let me know.

Good luck, but luck is the last thing you should need. :D:D:D