It just dawned on me, from a post on anther forum, that many boat owners don't know these tricks.
Bronze Ball Valve Style:
They are called "ball" valves. This means the part that shuts off the water flow is a ball. Simply remove the handle, put a small wrench across the flat spot on the valve stem, and the ball will rotate 360 degrees on most of them..
Use a flux brush or acid brush and stick it up inside the thru-hull do one side of the ball and then turn the ball and do the other.
Lubing bronze ball valves when the ball is clean will get you minimal improvement in operation, and usually is not necessary, but it won't hurt. With Marelon it is a must. Opening and closing ball valves frequently is the BEST thing you can do for them as it prevents any adhesion or growth from attaching to the closed ball.
Don't pull hoses just remove the one nut, pull the handle and rotate with a wrench...
Cause I like you guys I just took a few photos:
Side 2 of the ball (note the number on the stem):
Open:
Side 1 of the ball:
P.S. This is a three year old Groco ball valve and the ball still looks brand new..
Marelon:
I know this works on the older ones but it may or may not on the newer style. You'll ant to do this out of the water or you could blow the o-ring out.
While the design lends itself to slightly more labor in getting the ball to spin it can be done, at least on the older ones.
#1 Remove Handle. Older "RC Marine" valves had a screw under the sticker that held the handle onto the valve. On the newer ones the handle just pulls off then the screw holds the handle stop in place.
#2 Remove set screw (on older ones set screw holds handle on and is under the sticker)
#3 Remove handle stop device:
#4 Rotate ball with needle nose pliers to grease both sides from the thru-hull fitting.
Still beats removing old hose or sanitation hose!
Don't lube them and they WILL fail!
Bronze Ball Valve Style:
They are called "ball" valves. This means the part that shuts off the water flow is a ball. Simply remove the handle, put a small wrench across the flat spot on the valve stem, and the ball will rotate 360 degrees on most of them..
Use a flux brush or acid brush and stick it up inside the thru-hull do one side of the ball and then turn the ball and do the other.
Lubing bronze ball valves when the ball is clean will get you minimal improvement in operation, and usually is not necessary, but it won't hurt. With Marelon it is a must. Opening and closing ball valves frequently is the BEST thing you can do for them as it prevents any adhesion or growth from attaching to the closed ball.Don't pull hoses just remove the one nut, pull the handle and rotate with a wrench...
Cause I like you guys I just took a few photos:
Side 2 of the ball (note the number on the stem):
Open:
Side 1 of the ball:
P.S. This is a three year old Groco ball valve and the ball still looks brand new..
Marelon:
I know this works on the older ones but it may or may not on the newer style. You'll ant to do this out of the water or you could blow the o-ring out.
While the design lends itself to slightly more labor in getting the ball to spin it can be done, at least on the older ones.
#1 Remove Handle. Older "RC Marine" valves had a screw under the sticker that held the handle onto the valve. On the newer ones the handle just pulls off then the screw holds the handle stop in place.
#2 Remove set screw (on older ones set screw holds handle on and is under the sticker)
#3 Remove handle stop device:
#4 Rotate ball with needle nose pliers to grease both sides from the thru-hull fitting.
Still beats removing old hose or sanitation hose!
Don't lube them and they WILL fail!
