The solenoid in my propane system is not working. I know this because i have removed the solenoid from the system and been able to light the stove. I have checked the voltage at the solenoid and got 12v. So I disconnected the propane tank and removed it from the boat until i get a new solenoid. I thought i would have a closer look at the solenoid and found applying a voltage to the coil moved the plunger the wrong way. If i turned the coil round (head to tail), the solenoid worked as expected. Anyone have any idea how this can be?
LPG Solenoid
- Thread starter MickP
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I would leave the coil on it the way that it works correctly.
the lock off valve should close by default with a light spring pressure so that when there is a loss of power for any reason, it will cause the valve to close, whether or not there is any flow, and the pressure of the gas will hold it closed tightly if there is any leakage down stream from the lock off valve... by energizing the coil, it will pull the valve open upstream against the gas pressure and hold it there so gas will go by it....
how long has it been this way? is this something that just started happening, or has the system been worked on recently?..
is it possible that you have a "normal open" lock off, rather than a "normal closed" type?
the lock off valve should close by default with a light spring pressure so that when there is a loss of power for any reason, it will cause the valve to close, whether or not there is any flow, and the pressure of the gas will hold it closed tightly if there is any leakage down stream from the lock off valve... by energizing the coil, it will pull the valve open upstream against the gas pressure and hold it there so gas will go by it....
how long has it been this way? is this something that just started happening, or has the system been worked on recently?..
is it possible that you have a "normal open" lock off, rather than a "normal closed" type?
Thanks. I have only just bought the boat, and the survey picked up that the solenoid was not working. With the coil the way round that i have it now, it works exactly as you say. Before, energising the coil would push the valve closed 'even more'
There should be an arrow or flow direction indicator on the body if it is intended to be a 1 direction valve. These are not overly complicated or expensive to install. Mster
Yep, the body was the right way round.
I have been trying to think of whether anything can make the coil move the plunger the wrong way, but my rather rusty physics makes me thing this is dictated by the direction of wrapping of the coil. Someone must have put it in the wrong way round
I have been trying to think of whether anything can make the coil move the plunger the wrong way, but my rather rusty physics makes me thing this is dictated by the direction of wrapping of the coil. Someone must have put it in the wrong way round
Very, very simple apparatus. It's basically an electromagnetic coil, not unlike a common starter solenoid. Somebody just probably wired it backwards, so your fix is correct. Power in, open; power off, closed. With the correct polarity of course.
It's not like you can do it much harm wired backwards, as apposed to a radio where the smoke will come out of it if wired incorrectly..
It's not like you can do it much harm wired backwards, as apposed to a radio where the smoke will come out of it if wired incorrectly..
Argh, I don't know if this is a serious comment or not...
Surely it doesn't matter which way the current flows through the coil? I tried it both ways, and the plunger moved in the same direction both times
Plus, there are no markings on the wires at all indicating + and -. If it mattered, surely it would be indicated?
Not necessarily, but you would think so. What color are the wires and how do you have them connected. Considering what is at stake maybe a new solenoid is just the safest way to go.
We had problems on the Endeavour and ...
...it was the regulator not regulating and very high pressure going down the line. There should only be a couple lbs. of pressure in the line past the regulator. A....
A new regulator fixed our problems and we also replaced all of the lines since the old ones were probably very old.
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/endeavour-plumbing/page-11.html
The solenoid was working fine so reused it. It is very easy to check every couple days to make sure it is working. Leave a burner on and turn the solenoid off and the fire should go out. We only have...
...it on while using the stove,
Sum
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Thanks Sumner,
Both wires going to the solenoid are black. I removed the solenoid from the propane system and the stove worked fine, so i am pretty sure it is the solenoid. And playing with the (removed) solenoid at home and a 9v battery (i know, it should be 12 v but it seems to work), i found the it would not open.
Agree with you about replacing being simplest and safest, but just curious about this issue.
Both wires going to the solenoid are black. I removed the solenoid from the propane system and the stove worked fine, so i am pretty sure it is the solenoid. And playing with the (removed) solenoid at home and a 9v battery (i know, it should be 12 v but it seems to work), i found the it would not open.
Agree with you about replacing being simplest and safest, but just curious about this issue.
I spent some time today installing a Xintex system. Both wires coming out of the solenoid are black and the directions don't distinguish one from the other. One of the black wires goes to ground and the other connects to one of two yellow wires on the control panel. The other yellow wire from the control panel connects to a 12 v source. (There are two other wires coming out of the control panel (one red and one black). The red goes to a fused (0.5 Amp) 12 v source and the black goes to a ground.)
with a normal lock off valve, it should make no difference which wire is connected to ground or positive.... it is considered an isolated circuit and either way the positive is going to make it directly to ground thru the coil if the circuit is closed(normal, and not defective).... but there is enough resistance in the many, many windings within the coil that instead of getting a direct, high amperage short, the energy is turned into a magnetic force that is used to pull the spool open.
these coils and lock off valves are very, very safe. they are epoxy sealed coils and the wire in them is so small that it will melt and break the circuit and the valve will close if they short internally.... and the LP gas is isolated from all the voltage anyway.... what you are experiencing may be a sign of it beginning to fail so i would carry a spare but i would continue to use the one that works as long as its working....
another remote possibility is that it is a convertable normal open-normal closed valve... install the coil one way to open the valve with voltage, or turn the coil around to close the valve with voltage.....
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