This is my first time lowering the mast. I took off the boom and pulled one of the large pins out of the bottom of the mast where it connects to the hull, and me and my friends tried to lower it but it would not budge at all. Any help as to why?
Lowering an Oday 240 Mast
- Thread starter firestreak
- Start date
Well, I assume that you did also release the forestay from the bow? (that wasn't mentioned, however..please don't be insulted by that question.... it isn't meant that way. We have all made those type of first-time, seems like I forgot something, mistakes!) Other than that..... I can't see anything stock that would prevent the mast from pivoting down towards the stern once the forward pin was removed from the mast hinge.
Thinking back over those "first-timer" mistakes I've made, I recalled a few things that might help..... After you released the forestay, is it possible that the forestay/furler caught on something like a cleat or the bow rail? Did you release the furling line and pull it out of the fairleads along the deck leading it aft? That would stop the mast from lowering.
As another option, you could release the backstay from the stern, remove the aft pin from the mast hinge and pivot the mast down towards the bow. If you have a roller-furling jib, you will also need to release the forestay from the bow to lower the mast forward and be very careful not to bend the aluminum luff extrusion ofthe furler as you lower the mast (If you have a CDI Flexible-Furler, with a plastic luff extrusion or a Schaefer Snap-Furl, this is less of a problem as they will flex quite a bit without kinking, but it is still best to release the forestay and guide the furler down as you lower the mast forward.) I am resonably sure the 240 was designed to allow lowering the mast aft towards the stern normally.
It is possible that the mast has been stepped (in place, vertical) for so long that the aluminum spacers inside the mast hinge may have corroded enough to fuse the two parts of the hinge together.... but even so.. I would think that it would take very little force applied against the mast to break those spacers free. I'm not positive that the 240 even has those spacers, but I know most of the 25s did.
I don't know..... I'm stumped as to an answer!
Just a few of my past OOPS! moments...... I stepped the mast on my DS II a couple of years ago only to realize after it was up (mast steped through the deck and will stay up without rigging, can't sail that way though) that I'd forgotten to untie al lthe little line that held the rigging to the mast while the mast is unstepped...... and the last little line was just out of reach! Luckily I got it untied somehow with a boat hook. On out old CAL 21 we had to be sure that the backstay didn't snag the mainsheet cleat as the mast piovted up, or we couldn't get the mast all the way up plus it would bend the turnbuckle. I could mention the story of the boat owner who stowed his mooring buoy in the cabin of his boat for the winter, worked fine until he stepped the mast and couldn't get the buoy past the mast to get it out of the cabin! oops!
Thinking back over those "first-timer" mistakes I've made, I recalled a few things that might help..... After you released the forestay, is it possible that the forestay/furler caught on something like a cleat or the bow rail? Did you release the furling line and pull it out of the fairleads along the deck leading it aft? That would stop the mast from lowering.
As another option, you could release the backstay from the stern, remove the aft pin from the mast hinge and pivot the mast down towards the bow. If you have a roller-furling jib, you will also need to release the forestay from the bow to lower the mast forward and be very careful not to bend the aluminum luff extrusion ofthe furler as you lower the mast (If you have a CDI Flexible-Furler, with a plastic luff extrusion or a Schaefer Snap-Furl, this is less of a problem as they will flex quite a bit without kinking, but it is still best to release the forestay and guide the furler down as you lower the mast forward.) I am resonably sure the 240 was designed to allow lowering the mast aft towards the stern normally.
It is possible that the mast has been stepped (in place, vertical) for so long that the aluminum spacers inside the mast hinge may have corroded enough to fuse the two parts of the hinge together.... but even so.. I would think that it would take very little force applied against the mast to break those spacers free. I'm not positive that the 240 even has those spacers, but I know most of the 25s did.
I don't know..... I'm stumped as to an answer!
Just a few of my past OOPS! moments...... I stepped the mast on my DS II a couple of years ago only to realize after it was up (mast steped through the deck and will stay up without rigging, can't sail that way though) that I'd forgotten to untie al lthe little line that held the rigging to the mast while the mast is unstepped...... and the last little line was just out of reach! Luckily I got it untied somehow with a boat hook. On out old CAL 21 we had to be sure that the backstay didn't snag the mainsheet cleat as the mast piovted up, or we couldn't get the mast all the way up plus it would bend the turnbuckle. I could mention the story of the boat owner who stowed his mooring buoy in the cabin of his boat for the winter, worked fine until he stepped the mast and couldn't get the buoy past the mast to get it out of the cabin! oops!
Release forestay from the bow? Sorry feeling a bit dense now. Do you mean the connection between the jibb and the forward part of the boat at the bottom?
I have a rolling furler. Didn't disconnect it but it wasn't seeming to give any tension.
I have a rolling furler. Didn't disconnect it but it wasn't seeming to give any tension.
When singlehandedly lowering my masts (O'Day 19 and Capri 22), I use a gin pole (actually a whisker pole with the mast eye set to the base of the mast track) for the larger mast.
One bolt (the rear most one) must be attached connecting the mast to the mast step plate. This is the rotation point when lowering the mast.
Unless your boat has forward located shrouds, only the forestay needs to be removed.
If doing this on a trailer, make sure the trailer is hitched to the vehicle (otherwise the whole boat and trailer can tip backwards when the mast is lowered and sticks out past the stern.
Using a bridle attached to the base of the stanchions and the rotating ring in line with the mast plate pin, a line goes up to the end of the gin pole and a second line goes up to a gooseneck slide tightened with the main halyard.
The foresail and spinnaker halyards attach to the same ring as the bridle lines to the far end of the gin pole.
I use the mainsheet blocks as a pulley system when lowering or raising the mast.
Once this is attached, I tension the gin pole with the mainsheet blocks then remove the pin on the forestay (my Capri has a CDI Furler with the 135% genoa rolled on), slide the roller end of the CDI furler off to the side under the life line so it doesn't flop all around.
With the companionway and top closed, I use the repurposed mainsheet and blocks to control the descent. I steady the mast with one hand especially when the wind is blowing hard (last week it was 25 knots gusting to 30 when I lowered my mast) guiding the mast into the support with a roller that can hold the mast high enough to disconnect the remaining mast bolt then roll the base of the mast forward.
Here is a video using an A-frame rather than a gin pole.
https://vimeo.com/54170334
One bolt (the rear most one) must be attached connecting the mast to the mast step plate. This is the rotation point when lowering the mast.
Unless your boat has forward located shrouds, only the forestay needs to be removed.
If doing this on a trailer, make sure the trailer is hitched to the vehicle (otherwise the whole boat and trailer can tip backwards when the mast is lowered and sticks out past the stern.
Using a bridle attached to the base of the stanchions and the rotating ring in line with the mast plate pin, a line goes up to the end of the gin pole and a second line goes up to a gooseneck slide tightened with the main halyard.
The foresail and spinnaker halyards attach to the same ring as the bridle lines to the far end of the gin pole.
I use the mainsheet blocks as a pulley system when lowering or raising the mast.
Once this is attached, I tension the gin pole with the mainsheet blocks then remove the pin on the forestay (my Capri has a CDI Furler with the 135% genoa rolled on), slide the roller end of the CDI furler off to the side under the life line so it doesn't flop all around.
With the companionway and top closed, I use the repurposed mainsheet and blocks to control the descent. I steady the mast with one hand especially when the wind is blowing hard (last week it was 25 knots gusting to 30 when I lowered my mast) guiding the mast into the support with a roller that can hold the mast high enough to disconnect the remaining mast bolt then roll the base of the mast forward.
Here is a video using an A-frame rather than a gin pole.
https://vimeo.com/54170334
I went from a 22 to a 240. The difference in the length of mast is t much but the 240 is much heavier. I'm lucky enough that my trailer has a 2nd winch on a telescopic pole. It makes raising and lowering easy.
I would not lower your mast without some type of mechanical advantage. At the very least I would attach a rope on the mast, just above the spreaders. Run the rope to the bow of the boat or trailer. Loop it around a fixed object, maybe a cleat. Make sure the fixed item is centered laterally with the bow. You will have to loosen the transom stay to release pressure on the furling stay. Then release the furling from the bow. Remove the front pin from the mast step. At this point you could release pressure on rope and let the mast lower to the rear. With the aid of the rope and a friend you should be able to control the mast.
I would not lower your mast without some type of mechanical advantage. At the very least I would attach a rope on the mast, just above the spreaders. Run the rope to the bow of the boat or trailer. Loop it around a fixed object, maybe a cleat. Make sure the fixed item is centered laterally with the bow. You will have to loosen the transom stay to release pressure on the furling stay. Then release the furling from the bow. Remove the front pin from the mast step. At this point you could release pressure on rope and let the mast lower to the rear. With the aid of the rope and a friend you should be able to control the mast.
Loosen the shrouds on each side. Pull the front pin on the mast. Pop the fuller/forestay. Slowly lower the mast aft using the jib halyard attached to somewhere on the bow (put a block where the forestay was attached). Lower it slowly. Don't lower it all the wa to the deck while the aft pin is there still because you will crack the companionway hatch. Lower it just to the top of the hatch. Prop the mast there. Then putsch down on the butt of the mast and release the aft pin. Then walk the mast forward and rest it on the bow pulpit.
as the mast is lowered it puts increased pressure on the lowering line (or halyard). It really helps to control it with a second person standing behind it, with hands up and on it for slowing and support. This also helps to heed the above post about not lowering all the way down before pulling second hinge pin at mast base.
the mast on the 240 is quite stout. Use a mast crane if you can. If not, you will need 4 people and a crutch to support the mast aft of the transom. Sadly, the stock 240 does not have a halyard that can be used to control the mast tip, so unless you have added one, you will need someone to hang on the the furler. The following should be done on the hard.
1. loosen the sidestays but leave them connected.
2. undo the forsetay/furler
3. remove the forward pin from the mast base.
4. One person on the furler with three people on the deck should be able to rotate the mast down and aft until it is supported by the crutch.
5. remove the stays and position itwhere you want it.
Good luck
1. loosen the sidestays but leave them connected.
2. undo the forsetay/furler
3. remove the forward pin from the mast base.
4. One person on the furler with three people on the deck should be able to rotate the mast down and aft until it is supported by the crutch.
5. remove the stays and position itwhere you want it.
Good luck
Concur with djplatt. Just did this yesterday on my Oday 240 for the first time, went without a hitch. Loosen the side stays and remove the lowers. Taking the head sail off the furler helps with weight. Tie a line around the furler base and have someone stand in the truck bed. If the truck has racks use them for additional leverage. Two people at the mast and one holding the line is more than enough. I put it up with two people but it was sketchy at best, almost lost it. Its considerably heavier than the mast that was on my Catalina 22. That could be dropped solo without any fancy gin poles etc.
Firestreak ...
Lowering the mast is always an interesting proposition. I agree with the posts and would suggest that you check out this web site .... This is an ongoing discussion about how to easily and relaibly raise and lower the pole. Here is a link to one of the discussions ....
http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=997738&highlight=Oday lower mast
I'd also suggest looking on youtube.... There are a number of videos about raising and lowering masts.... for example.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfYTiKryKBc
Of course check out the other videos listed at the side and you will see a number of different ideas and the realization of some of the ideas people have suggested.
finally - if you are a member of a club or see another O'day nearby stop by and ask - every owner I've ever met has helped me understand my boat better.
Hoping this helps
james
Lowering the mast is always an interesting proposition. I agree with the posts and would suggest that you check out this web site .... This is an ongoing discussion about how to easily and relaibly raise and lower the pole. Here is a link to one of the discussions ....
http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=997738&highlight=Oday lower mast
I'd also suggest looking on youtube.... There are a number of videos about raising and lowering masts.... for example.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfYTiKryKBc
Of course check out the other videos listed at the side and you will see a number of different ideas and the realization of some of the ideas people have suggested.
finally - if you are a member of a club or see another O'day nearby stop by and ask - every owner I've ever met has helped me understand my boat better.
Hoping this helps
james
With good systems in place, you can do this with a couple of people. Actually, some do it solo. With my 222, I was able to raise and lower it alone with no trouble but the mast on the 25 is quite a bit heavier. I've got an A-frame that I built using plans from another 25 owner on this site (RBone) and it works fine for me. http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/album.php?albumid=1052
I use the A-frame and the spare main-sheet combined with the main halyard (there are actually two of them on the 25 so I use both of them for redundancy) to get the stick up and down.
My advice is that once you get your systems in place, have several people around the first time raising/lowering so that if something doesn't go right, you've got backups. For example, one mistake I made in raising was to allow some of the turnbuckles to bind which resulted in replacement of 3 different turnbuckles (about $100) when the threads got distorted.
It is nice to be able to deal with this without using a crane every time you want to raise or lower the mast. Also, the 24 is trailerable so you want to be able to take advantage of that feature of the boat. I actually trailered my 222 a lot more than I trailer this one.
Dave
s/v Lagniappe
O'Day 25
I use the A-frame and the spare main-sheet combined with the main halyard (there are actually two of them on the 25 so I use both of them for redundancy) to get the stick up and down.
My advice is that once you get your systems in place, have several people around the first time raising/lowering so that if something doesn't go right, you've got backups. For example, one mistake I made in raising was to allow some of the turnbuckles to bind which resulted in replacement of 3 different turnbuckles (about $100) when the threads got distorted.
It is nice to be able to deal with this without using a crane every time you want to raise or lower the mast. Also, the 24 is trailerable so you want to be able to take advantage of that feature of the boat. I actually trailered my 222 a lot more than I trailer this one.
Dave
s/v Lagniappe
O'Day 25
I just did this over the weekend. Unfortunately I lost the pin that holds the furler/ forstay in place. Can anyone tell me what size I need to replace it with?
thanks,
Mike
thanks,
Mike