Low Lead Genoa cars

jerrymlewis · Nov 4, 2013

I switched to low lead double genoa cars ten years ago and really like how they seem to help prevent over-rides on the winches. Maybe it's the lower angle, keeping the wraps toward the bottom of the winch instead of creeping up and risking over-laps.

Even though they're doubles (allowing sheeting two headsails at onces) I don't have any forestay ability to run two headsails - but got them on sale at the time.

Jerry

jerrymlewis · Nov 4, 2013

old style and newer style (not exact ones I had/have), but close...

shnool · Nov 4, 2013

Curt, I bought the low lead model for my Capri 25... and also followed up with the regular lead ones...
Garhauer has them both... they are smooth and quiet, and honestly a better option than the originals.
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=35
I also use these as my tracks are recessed for my Genoa, and required a thinner car...

From here... so I technically have 2 sets of cars.
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=28

aviatorjames · Nov 5, 2013

What Curt posted above...
Factory genoa cars...work good...last a long time!
They are super smooth, quiet and quite sturdy.

Chris Capri 22 · Nov 14, 2013

Curt

I have a set of the low lead cars (D1114) and they chewed up some very expensive jib sheets. I switched to the spring loaded types like Shnool posted. And there was much rejoicing.

Chris

shnool · Nov 15, 2013

Best I can tell there is about 1 inch difference between the low lead cars and the spring loaded one. Again I have both, but have to use the spring loaded one because my tracks are recessed inboard, and the low lead one won't fit.

shnool · Nov 18, 2013

Pretty sure I bought this one (Low Lead Genoa Cars):
LLC-25US
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=35
I am pretty sure I had the LLC-25US on my Capri 22 and kept them for this boat... Sorry (damned previous owners, in this case I am the Damned PO).

I bought these as well (Regular lead Genoa Cars):
25-40 US
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=28

shnool · Nov 18, 2013

Curt I used 5/16" genoa sheets, the boat came originally with 3/8" which was TOO heavy, especially in the light air I always get.

I've been using 5/16" on my Capri 25 as well, and it's MORE than enough even as the winds come up. I also used 5/16 on the mainsheet.

I went to 1/4" for the vang, boom outhaul/flattener/reef, and I believe the traveler on the 22 though, it "felt" better and moved easier in the light air. Smartest thing I ever did was make the traveler line continuous.

jerrymlewis · Nov 19, 2013

Strongly agree with the continuous traveler line!

Mattw79 · Nov 19, 2013

Anyone have a picture of how to configure a continuous traveler?

shnool · Nov 19, 2013

here's a good one:

The ends tie at the vertical combing... run through the traveler car sheaves, up through the combing sheaves and through the cleat, then backwards to the other side (down through the cleat, sheave on combing, sheave on the traveler, and tie on the opposite side).

shnool · Nov 19, 2013

Now imagine (see the cam cleats are on the vertical)... sitting high side, and pulling on the line running from cleat to cleat... you've "released" the low side, now adjust away. You didn't have to go lowside.

The downside to this, is you tack, and the car slides down during the tack, so you have to make sure to cleat the lowside before the tack.

I've tried the windward sheeting car which solves that as well... and I like it.. but!!!! when the winds are VERY light, the windward sheeting car is annoying (doesn't always lock).

jerrymlewis · Nov 20, 2013

Just make sure you do two things for continuous traveler line:

1. make it long enough that you can get a really good "pull up" on the high side while on the rail - long enough to reach shoulder height while on the windward rail

2. always remember to cleat the high side before crossing the boat for a tack - and the first thing I do once over there is cleat what was the low side/loose end at the "block in the middle" marked location. If I forget this, no problem, as the traveler will fall to the new low side allowing helmsman to slowly pull it back up on the new tack, feathering into the tack.

Mattw79 · Nov 20, 2013

Ha, for whatever reason I didn't expect it to be that simple. Thanks for the pics guys, and the tips about the length and cleating prior to tacking.

shnool · Nov 21, 2013

Continuous traveler line is common among small boats configured for racing especially with the traveler cleats vertical on the rail. But you are right, I hadn't realized it was as easy as it is initially either.. I set it up on my Capri 22, and made a world of difference. Again I tried using a windward sheeting car which is priceless in areas when you have wind, but as soon as you have a heavy chop and light air, it becomes a PITA.

My line has just enough slack to allow you to pull it to mid-waist from sitting on the rail, so that I can adjust the traveler without reaching real far down... and really that is ONLY an issue for releasing the low side anyway.

shnool · May 13, 2014

Just wanted to share... I saw a system upgrade to the standard fare, continuous line traveler... Apparently (and I am slow on the uptake), J/24 guys have used this for a couple years...
But if you replace the cleats on the side with "2 axis" cleats... then the continuous line gets the ability to CLEAT the leeward rail from windward as well. DUH... why didn't I think of this stuff?

yes I can dredge up an old thread.
Also if you look at my old picture, I have a block (2 holes) then a cam cleat (2 holes), this device appears to have 2 total holes for both functions. The advantage is I replace 2 parts with 1, and get more functionality. Hard to beat that.

Looks like price per braket $50. $31 for each cleat, and another $24 for the sheave.

Low Lead Genoa cars

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