Looking to build a trailer

[mcurcio1989]

I have a 1970 Coronado 25. I got it last year for the right price (next to nothing). I like the boat but I really do not want to pay for storage over the winter. I put it for sale but no one wants to buy a 25 foot sailboat with no trailer or rack in the the fall (obviously). Unfortunately the marina turned the old rack into firewood. I have a good amount of experience behind a welder and I have some friends who build frames for hot rods and such. It would seem that I could find an old dual axle powerboat trailer and convert it over to use on this boat at a reasonable price. You can find them around here for free or very cheap and I can get my hands on good quality scrap steel that would be good for modifying for free or next to free.

This boat is a fixed keel so that complicates things in that, from what I understand the boat will have to be lifted out at a marina. That's not a big problem but it would be nice if that wasn't the case. I have a decent amount of questions on this and their seems to be little information about it. I can find info on people who have done it but not on what their design considerations were.

Things I am considering.

-Supporting the keel: how much should the keel be supported?
-Bunks: I have seen front to back and side to side bunks as well as the pads used for sail boats. What should determine which ones I should use. If pads, how many? Also this will be used to store the boat on over the winter.
-How does the weight need to be balanced over the axles. I would assume we want basically the keel centered over the axles maybe a little forward to give it some tongue weight. That seems to be the norm of the ones I have looked at.
-Where exactly should i locate the supports. . .is their any exact procedure to follow as far as the locations. To my knowledge sailboats do not have stringers like powerboats so its not like I can shoot for that.
-What would my best plan of attack be for the height of the pads to account for the keel height and curve of the hull. It is in the water so measurements will be difficult.

. . .let me know of other things I should link into. I am new to this forum and I don't know how much this topic has been discussed so If anyone has good information, links, or knowledge from tackling something like this let me know.

I think the trailer is the best option because I have free storage for anything on wheel and It will make the boat more sell-able when that time comes.

 

[Charlie13958]

google coronado25 you will get some pics and ideas.
Here is a mast raising on a 25 on a trailer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5shZq7yIhxM

 

[SailMML]

Google Road King Trailers and link to the sailboat trailer area of the site. That should give you some ideas on what you might need to do to modify a trailer. I have one for my Com-Pac 23 and it's great. Mine has a guide for the shoal keel and bunks on the sides to support the boat. I think you should stay away from rollers as they don't provide the support that bunk board do and could possibly damage the boat.

Also, note the tongue extension. This is a must for ramp launching. I actually only need the rear half of my trailer submerged and I can crank the boat all the way onto the trailer with the winch.

As for the keel, it should take most of the weight on the trailer, just like it would if the boat was placed on jackstands in a boat yard. My entire keel sits on the bottom support and is centerd by the keel guides.

 

[txtowman]

I modded a bass boat trailer, it works fine. If you don't have to go far I would build a cradle for the trailer from wood to get it home then support the boat with slings or blocks to get it positioned right and get to work. Need help? I could use a working vacation!

 

[Mario G]

I have less the $100 in the trailer I built for the C-22.

If you can't get good measurements prior..
You could start by having a base for the keel to rest on, the weight of the boat should be supported by the keel. Use 6 to 8 heavy rachet straps to hold on each side from the toe rail or cleats, then build the bunks.

 

[Barnacle Bill]

Trailer building or modification

I have built trailers from scratch and have modified powerboat trailers to accommodate sailboat hulls. First, make sure the powerboat trailer you get has the capacity required to accommodate your boat, with water and fuel in the tanks, outboard and gear. The tires have to be rated accordingly too. Most PB trailers do not have an appropriate keel bed, so that is where you would start. you can weld angle iron in a rectangular pattern on to the thwart members of the trailer down the centerline to that it accommodates a 2x6 or 8 or 10 - whatever seems a good width. The best thing to do would be to lower the boat in slings on to this keel support after you have installed it so that you can determine exactly the location and height of each upright. If you don't have that luxury, or a marina to help, then you have to carefull measure. If you had the old cradle then you could use that as a locator for your fore and aft pads. But, since that ended up in someone's fire place, you either have to find another or start from scratch. Usually your uprights will be welded to the fore and aft members of the trailer, or, perhaps just inside of them attached to a thwart cross member. The location of the cross members will have something to do with the location of the uprights. You can use long boards on each side port and starboard to support the hull, or pads, as you suggested. Pads, if they have threaded rods, like a Brownell boat stand, are adjustable and you can insert them into a square or round tube slightly larger than the threaded rod. Make your tube short enough so you have 6 to 8 inches (whatever works) of adjustment. Depending on the location of the cross members, I would think you would, of course use at least 4 (two in the front and two in the back on each side) as a minimum and maybe 6 if you have a spot to put one in the middle. You can even go 4 on each side, but that might be getting too much for the size boat. With these adjustable pads you have some breathing room if your measurements are suffering some. If you are going to use a board (cheaper approach), then you need to have at least 4 total uprights and possibly 6 or 8. If you can get a perfect measurement (like when the boat is lowered with slings onto the trailer, then you can weld in uprights that are exactly the length you need. Otherwise it might be wise to us an inner and outer tube, whether square or round to adjust. If you are a welder you can drill a hole in the side of the outer tube and weld in a nut to accommodate a bolt which can be used to tighten the inner tube in place. A couple of these nut and bolt arrangements per upright would be better than one. You also need to attach the board with a method that lets it rotate to the right position to sit flat against your hull. You can easily do this by welding a plate with a hole it in to the upper/inner tube so that the plane of that plate runs thwartwise. Then attach an angle iron piece to that with holes in it so that you can screw or bolt it into the board, and also put a bolt through the welded on plate to allow the board to swivel in or out to get the correct angle.
The next thing you need to do is probably raise the bow support. The powerboat one will have too short a one and so you have to get creative and add more material (butt weld it in) to raise it so that the winch is in a good place to attach to a bow eye on your stem. The last thing I would consider is keel guides. If you ever were to launch and retrieve your boat - especially retrieve - out of the water, then you want to make sure your keel goes right in the center of the trailer for exact and carefree retrieving. The location of the winch in regards to the bow eye is important to pull the boat up to the perfect towing position. Hope this helps.

 

[mcurcio1989]

^That is basically exactly what I have been planning in my head so far.
Wow great information guys. I wasn't sure how much support their would be for a diy trailer but this seems to be fairly common. I am really excited to get started now.

I am definitely going to go with a double axle trailer because they tow so much better and just about any reasonably sized double axle trailer should support the 4,500lbs this boat weighs. I think the bunks are where I am going to go with this. It seems that it will be more cost efficient, provide better support, more capable of being reinforced, and would be easier for use at a ramp. I like the idea of using the bolts threaded in to adjust height and I also like the idea of swiveling bunks.

I was basically planning exactly what you described as far as the keel and using guides etc. My dad has big sheets of the plastic that is used on toilet partitions so that would work great to put on above the wood to help the keel slide on easily.

This boat doesn't have a bow eye so I am going to have to figure something out with that. Either install one or use kleets.

For the measurements I think I will try the coronado forum to ask those guys what their measurements are. My other option is to bring it up to the very lightly sloped shore just until the keel touches at 3.5 feet and the take measurements from the boat to the river bottom.

You guys that are using these trailers to launch from a shore, how much draft do you require? With this boat requiring 3.5 feet I will need at least 4.5 feet of depth at the ramp. I am going to get some measurements from the ramps in my area. I'm hoping that it will be doable to ramp this and not have to take it to the marina. Those guys are hurting and they are making prices ridiculous instead of making them less.

With this boat being 25 feet long I will basically have 13 feet from right in between the two axles to where the front of the boat will be on the trailer. With that said and taking my depth into consideration where about would a good range be for the length of the tongue. Ie from the front of the boat forward what range of feet should I look for. Just trying to get a feel for what is commonly done.

Thanks for all the help so far I think I am getting a pretty good grasp on this!

 

[Freedom77]

Before you get to ambitious put together a mterials list including Iron, springs, wheels, tires, bearing buddies, hubs, winch, bunks, etcs. Compare what the raw materials will run as to what factory stock trailer made to fit your boat will cost. You might be surprised as I was when considering building a trailer. I think Coronado was bought out by Catalina? Fair Winds...

 

[mcurcio1989]

Well I'm not actually building the trailer. I am going to modify a powerboat trailer to fit this boat.

Anyone have any experience pulling out a boat with a 3.5 foot draft at a ramp?

I went down their yesterday and took some measurements. Based off what I have found, provided I have a long enough trailer, this ramp could definitely accommodate this. It is fairly steep, very deep and has concrete 30 feet out on a low day. I found a section view of the coronado hull/keel and scaled it up with a sketch of the measurements of this ramp. I was having a hard time visualizing the different dimension i would need to account for. based off of this it looks like if i can find a trailer with 18 feet from the hitch to in between the axles and 1 foot of ground clearance to the cross members this will surely work!

 

[SailMML]

My Com-Pac has only 27 inches of draft and it sits about 15 inches above ground on the trailer so I know it's a bit less than your Coronado. As i stated before, you don't necessarily need the entire trailer submerged in order to get your boat fully on the trailer. The stern will float the whole time and allow you to winch the boat up. As long as the rear end of the bunks or the rear stand pads are submerged enough you should have no problems.

If you have thirty feet of ramp at low water you should have no problem. Steep and deep are good too. I have a tongue extension that adds 4 feet of length to the trailer. I have seen some extensions that add more. If you are modifying a trailer this should be one area that you should focus on. It makes launching and retrieving dramatically easier.

 

[mcurcio1989]

^Thats some good info for me. I was sort of unsure about the dynamics of loading the boat on the trailer, as far as how much of the trailer would need submerged.

Like I said earlier I ended up making a cross sectional view of the ramp I use on some graph paper then scaled a cross section of my boat and cut that out. So I was moving the boat around and measuring the clearances out. I had a 17 foot tongue with the hitch a foot from the water and the keel sitting one foot off the road. With those dimensions I was able to get the front of the bunks in the water.

Based off what you are saying that should be more than enough clearance. That is great news because the 1 foot of clearance would be a little tricky and I would rather not have to have the rear tires of the tow vehicle in the water. I am focusing on finding something with a low v in the middle and around 18 feet of distance from the tongue to in between the axles. based off what your saying I should have plenty off wiggle room for loading if I can get close to those dimensions.

Thanks that is really what I was looking for as I have never seen a sail boat loaded on the ramp before. I've done plenty of power boats just not sailboats.

 

[Freedom77]

I have a retractable tongue, shutup with the comments, on my V25 trailer because in some places you nee to sink the trailer to get the boat off. It slide in and out of the socket with varying positions to lock it in place. Fair winds...

 

[Freedom77]

Look For My Post Under Ask All Sailors About Launching A Sailboat. It's A True Story. Fair Winds...

 

[soling42]

Here's a few before/after pics to wet your appetite for a major DIY project. This was a CB boat so yours will be a couple feet taller. Make no mistake it'll take far more time, effort, brain power and cash than you are figuring but it can be done. If I wasn't hauling it far it'd be best to locate screw jacks at the lift zones and a bow roller with a stop and a stout bow eye/hook. Otherwise build bunks to saddle the curves exactly so you don't have hot spots wearing away while you truck it down the road. You're sure the boat is worth the effort, right?

Good luck. Mike

 

[BobM]

Keel guides are definitely a good idea (as per the centerboard boat trailer photos). Rollers are easier than bunks for launch / retrieval, but apply more force to the hull. Keep the structure of the boat in mind when locating rollers / bunk supports so that the bulkheads take the load as much as possible. Be sure to have a platform under the keel as for a keelboat the keel will take most of the weight.

 

[Barnacle Bill]

You don't want to use cleats for a couple of reasons. First you most likely will tear them out of your deck and secondly they will be in the wrong location. A properly placed bow eye will put the boat right where you want it when retrieving the vessel out with the use of the winch.

 

[mcurcio1989]

Here's a few pics to wet your appetite for a major DIY project. This was a CB boat so yours will be a couple feet taller. Make no mistake it'll take far more time, effort, brain power and cash than you are figuring but it can be done. If I wasn't hauling it far it'd be best to locate screw jacks at the lift zones and a bow roller with a stop and a stout bow eye/hook. Otherwise build bunks to saddle the curves exactly so you don't have hot spots wearing away while you truck it down the road. You're sure the boat is worth the effort, right?

Good luck. Mike

The boat is not worth the effort at all. I really want to sell this and buy a macgregor 25 but no one is interested in a boat like this in the fall when it has no trailer or rack. I could either spend the money to build a rack and have a marina pull it and store it there or I can build a trailer. It will cost at the very minimum $500 to do that and I will be no better off in the spring aside from having a rack. If I build the trailer I have free storage as long as I want, cost will be about the same, it will much more sell-able, and sailboat trailers are worth more than a rack. I have locked down prices on trailers that will do the job for $500. I want to find something for less. I have all the steel including the adjustable supports for free.

I will definitely be doing bunks and not rollers. I am undecided on whether or not I want to use a marina to set it on their the first time. It would be 60 dollars. However I am in contact with someone who has a trailer for this exact boat so he is getting all my measurements for me.

I had one guy come check out the boat this weekend and he seemed interested but decided he wasn't when he found out how much dock space is. I have the boat listed for $1200 on craigslist so I really just hope it sells!

 

[soling42]

I'd cut my loss and donate it to the local youth sailing group immediately. You'll feel better about helping an enthusiastic group with deeper pockets and plenty of volunteer help. Your time is worth something, added to your cash outlay it sounds like a break even trial to still end up with a boat that you'll inevitably have to deal with next spring again.

Let it go...life is too short to mess with a beater boat you don't absolutely love.

Mike

 

[mcurcio1989]

I bought a trailer yesterday. I really couldn't find any tandem axle trailers for under 400. The single axles are everywhere and crazy cheap but bigger tandems start getting expensive!

I ended up heading over to a marine salvage yard 30 min from my house to see what they had. With 500 junk boats their they had a very good selection of old trailers for cheap. I made a deposit on a tandem axle trailer that has a 24 foot powerboat on it. If anything this will be to big. . .not a problem! From in between the axles to the tongue is 21 feet so it will easily launch the boat from the ramp. He is charging me $400 for it which i thought was a good deal.

They just have to scrap and move the boat that is on it before I can go pick it up. I should be starting this project pretty soon!

I have about $700 into this and I will have about $1200 once it is on the trailer. I am sure I can get it sold in the spring and not lose anything. I don;t have to pay anything for storage and I can keep it their as long as I want so It is not costing me any money to not sell it. I would think I have deeper pockets than any local sailing organization I just want to be able to get out what I have in the boat. I love fabricating so I will enjoy this project and hopefully I will be able to sell this boat in the spring. Plus after spring I will have some very fat checks heading my way so I will be more likely to buy another sailboat that I can actually keep at my dock.

 

[mcurcio1989]

So i got the trailer built this weekend and gave it a test. I'll summarize

To modify the trailer I used a section of old scaffold which basically emulated to the t what the boat jacks do. same material and everything. Tripod with a vertical tube and adjustable pads. For the keel support i got a set of pallet rack cross members which were rated at 5k lbs. everything was very solid.

So we pulled the boat out. Ramp worked out great and the truck had no problem. The boat practically floated on. We pulled it out and had to adjust the pads a couple times. Once we got it pulled out we then realized that it was sitting a good two feet to far back. negative tongue weight and the trailer was deflecting as a result. So We were going to back it in and re adjust but my dad and i had a mutual feeling of terror looking at that huge boat up in the air like that. It was getting late so we backed the boat back in and called it quits.

I am really scared of trailering that thing it is just so big and high. There were some things with the design that I don't like. I separated my pads by about 11 feet centered over the axles.I just put them on the cross members. That was to far and I think the load would be more steady if i move those closer to the axles. I am a little concerned with the weight. The trailer had a 24 foot powerboat on it so i think weight would be comparable. However with my boat on their the suspension seemed to be bottomed out. The tires are good for 6k lbs though.

Is this crazy? I am starting to contemplate just taking this to a marina and using my trailer as a rack. It just seems so terrifying to trailer a sail boat of that size on the road the boat is so tall. Just looking up and seeing the rub rail way up at the top of my reach is scary. I try to tell myself that the weight is all way down low on the keel but it still seems creepy. I am not concerned with my supports and welds. That is all very capable of supporting the applied loads. What scares me is the trailer itself failing at some point. with a 25 foot trailer and that much weight an uneven load can cause some crazy bending moments.