Are there any 79 H30 owners out there who have replaced stanchions but held onto the original equipment? We had two stanchions that broke/bent at the base and initially we thought we'd just replace all of them, until I saw how much that would cost. So now we are just looking to replace the two that broke and I'd kind of like them to match the rest. So, if anyone has two & is willing to part with them let me know.
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Can they be fixed?
Hi Tammy - There is a possibility that your stanchions can be fixed. Depends on the type and extent of damage. I can check into this if you like and if it is possbile fix - I can quote a price. Send me an image of the stanchions and I'll see what can be done. My email address is bly@sailboatowners.com. Bly
Hi Tammy - There is a possibility that your stanchions can be fixed. Depends on the type and extent of damage. I can check into this if you like and if it is possbile fix - I can quote a price. Send me an image of the stanchions and I'll see what can be done. My email address is bly@sailboatowners.com. Bly
It gets complicated.....
One of the stanchions broke completely off it's base and I think we might have discarded one of the base before we found out how much it cost to replace a stanchion :O :{. The other stanchion is still attached to it's base but the base is bent. I can borrow a digital camera and try to get a picture to you sometime soon.
One of the stanchions broke completely off it's base and I think we might have discarded one of the base before we found out how much it cost to replace a stanchion :O :{. The other stanchion is still attached to it's base but the base is bent. I can borrow a digital camera and try to get a picture to you sometime soon.
Not untreasonable price ----
I replaced a damaged atanchion with a two piece set-up from "Tops In Quality". As I remamber the base part was about $50 and the pole was another $50 give or take. While not cheap it's not all that awful.
I replaced a damaged atanchion with a two piece set-up from "Tops In Quality". As I remamber the base part was about $50 and the pole was another $50 give or take. While not cheap it's not all that awful.
Fix them.
I broke one this winter. It was easily removed and rewelded. The base is a simple piece of 1/8" stainless and could easily be fabricated since you have an existing one for a pattern. There might be a little "blueing" from the weld but most of that can be polished away. When repairing remember that the stanchions are not "square", they have about a five degree lean in.
I broke one this winter. It was easily removed and rewelded. The base is a simple piece of 1/8" stainless and could easily be fabricated since you have an existing one for a pattern. There might be a little "blueing" from the weld but most of that can be polished away. When repairing remember that the stanchions are not "square", they have about a five degree lean in.
Tops In Quality
I think a company called Tops In Quality has the drawings for the original stanchions for your boat, if you're interested in buying replacements. (see link below) They'll probably cost a little over $100 each. Give them a call, their phone number is on their web site. They're very helpful.
I think a company called Tops In Quality has the drawings for the original stanchions for your boat, if you're interested in buying replacements. (see link below) They'll probably cost a little over $100 each. Give them a call, their phone number is on their web site. They're very helpful.
To get rid of the bluing, go to a welding store
and ask for HTR. (for heat tint remover) I comes in quart plastic squeeze bottles. Shake and squeeze. Spread it onto the entire surface because it changes the patina where ever it touches. Leave it on for about five minutes, then rinse it off. You can re-apply longer if needed. (the instructions say 40 minutes-that's too long) WEAR RUBBER GLOVES. You will not like your skin afterwords without gloves. Most important! Wherever it touches, your skin will turn yellow and peel off. (unless you wash right away) Where did I put that skin?
P.S. Or just have the work done by a rail shop with a electro polishing tank.
and ask for HTR. (for heat tint remover) I comes in quart plastic squeeze bottles. Shake and squeeze. Spread it onto the entire surface because it changes the patina where ever it touches. Leave it on for about five minutes, then rinse it off. You can re-apply longer if needed. (the instructions say 40 minutes-that's too long) WEAR RUBBER GLOVES. You will not like your skin afterwords without gloves. Most important! Wherever it touches, your skin will turn yellow and peel off. (unless you wash right away) Where did I put that skin?
P.S. Or just have the work done by a rail shop with a electro polishing tank.Repaired stanchion on H25
When I came into this boat one of the stanchions was already severed from its base. I removed the base and showed the stainless-steel guy how it had to go together. The guy polished up the two pieces to make a good fit and brazed over the weld pretty well. I think he welded it a little more angled than it was before, but really any angle is too much for the middle stanchion on an early H25 and I'll live with it. The guy did it in 2 days. Looks like new. Twenty bucks. Cash. JC 2
When I came into this boat one of the stanchions was already severed from its base. I removed the base and showed the stainless-steel guy how it had to go together. The guy polished up the two pieces to make a good fit and brazed over the weld pretty well. I think he welded it a little more angled than it was before, but really any angle is too much for the middle stanchion on an early H25 and I'll live with it. The guy did it in 2 days. Looks like new. Twenty bucks. Cash. JC 2
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