Looking for ideas with issues with new e36

[Oliverhg]

I changed from a 2004 Hunter 33 to new e36 late last year. After sailing it for a number of times now, I am interested in opinions from the forum while I work with the dealer on these issues.

1. Main sail. I have a furling main with vertical battens. I find that with the main sheet pulled completely in, the leach is still not completely tight. Therefore I cannot completely get all the twist out of the main sail. It happens to be about the amount of twist I usually have but I thought that I should have the control range on the main sheet to pull the twist out if I really wanted to. At first I thought that the mast was rigged up with too much rake leaving less room for the boom to lower before touching the arch. However, the dealer said there is no rake for the mast and that we should look at having a sail maker come and trim the bottom of the sail off to give me the option of pulling the leach tight. I find it unusual that Hunter should have the size of the main sail wrong on a production boat. Any other e36 owners with this issue?

2. Variaprop. I have Variaprop (variable pitch propeller) on the boat and love the reduced drag when sailing. However, the helm starts to oscillate when engine rpm goes beyond 2000 and the helm wants to veer to starboard if I am not holding it down. My guess is that one of the blades in the prop is not balanced or pitching the same as the other two blades. Any other Variaprop owners with this issue?

3. Jib furler spool cover. This cover has a bad tendency to rotate with the spool when the spool gets close to full which results in the furling line wrapping around the cover instead of in the spool inside. I see that the line wants to wrap on the upper part of the spool so lowered the line guide before the spool but the same happens. Anyone out there with this issue and a fix? Anything wrong with forgetting about the covers?

I do like the boat overall. The freeboard is now just that much higher than the previous 33 that it is harder to jump off onto the dock and impossible to get on without a ladder. However, the stern platform helps a lot as the platform height is just above most docks.

The additional displacement is nice to have. I went for a 12 inch Raymarine chartplotter which is great but it does block a lot of the visibility.

I have a special Harken doubleended mainsheet arrangement that led the mainsheet down on the two sides of the arch. It works great in that it does not interfere with the traveller movement as Hunter's standard arrangement would. Works good but I hardly ever adjust the mainsheet now that the twist that I want is always there.

I have the boomvang line come in over the coach roof on the clutch position where the mainsheet was on standard Hunters and that is great in controlling the boom when it swings outside the range of the traveller.

Thanks in advance for your input.

Oliver.

 

[Patrik]

Congratulation to your new e36. I have a 356 and didn't like the original mainsheet arrangement. I have looked at teh arrangement on the e36 but ufortunalli it has it´s drawbacks with interference with the trawler. I understand you have another arrangements and I would appreciate more information (photos if possible) on this.My arrangements you can see in the Owners modification.
Best regards
Patrik

 

[Andreas7699]

Hi. I would also like to see your mainsheet arrangement. Sounds good. Cant help with the other things. Sorry.
Regards
Andreas

 

[Oliverhg]

Enclosed is a photo of the traveler car arrangement. You can find it in Harken catalog of their various traveler arrangements. I had Hunter weld another bracket on the vertical of the arch to mount a line clutch so the two traveler car control lines each run down either side of the arch to their own line clutch.

I can use the winch to pull in the main sheet if needed but so far I have not had to. The arrangement only gives a 2:1 in mechanical advantage ratio in pulling the boom in when most boat this size would have a 3:1 on the boom.

Note the attachment point on the arch where Hunter have their standard arrangement to bring their double ended mainsheet down. By fixing that point, it dictated a geometry where the main sheet will have to be adjusted when moving the traveler.

It is possible to rig a 4:1 ratio by putting additional pulleys on the car and boom but I have not found it necessary. I have not been out in really heavy weather but I figured that I would have the main sail reefed by then so the effort required on the main sheet should not be much more than it is now.

 

[HernandoBeacher]

Regarding the jib fuller, my SeaFurl did the same thing on my new H36. There is a set screw, or maybe two, that need to be tightened. Took five seconds to fix and has worked perfectly since.
I did not receive the manual when the boat was new but Pompanette was extremely helpful and provided the SeaFurl manual that also provides instructions for setting the jib halyard tightness.

 

[Ken Honeycutt]

If you have the Hood Seafurler you probably have the same problem I had with the outer drum turning. I called the Hood dealer and talked to their resident tech. Very helpful in solving the problem. There are 2 Allen head screws under the drum. Most likely they are too loose. you need to tighten these until it is impossible to turn the outer drum by hand.

 

[Oliverhg]

Thanks! I will have a look to see if I have a Hood Seafurler. I was able to turn the drum so it sounded like I should be tightening something so that the drum will not turn at all. I quite like the furler as it is easier to furl the jib in to reef compared to the previous furler I had with the 33.

 

[seadaddler]

Selden

I have a selden Furlex and took the cover off and on and now leave the cover off on my 2007 Hunter 36,I have been been playing around with how much line wraps around the furler when I removed the sail every year and may put the cover back on.
Nick

 

[Ken Honeycutt]

Oliver,

I also have a Variprop - so far the only problem I have is some vibration around 3000 RPM but I haven't experienced any oscillation. I'm real happy with the benefits I've gotten over the 3 blade fixed prop. Sounds like you may need to haul the boat and take a look at the prop. The way the prop is geared, all the blades are synchronized together so that one can't be out of pitch with the others. I would call the Variprop rep and ask him what the pitch setting is for your boat. When I ordered mine, they set the pitch according to my engine and transmission. You probably have the same engine (3YM30) as my 36. If IRC my prop is set at 0 (zero) for the pitch. Could be your dealer ordered the prop and either didn't set the pitch according to factory reccommendation or got the wrong size.

 

[Oliverhg]

Thanks Ken. The boat was delivered to me late last season and I only had the chance to take it out twice before having to winterize it. I don't remember the Variprop acting up then so I am suspicious of barnacles growing in the prop over the winter. However, I may have been too preoccupied with other things with the new boat then to notice.

The stop button stuck in the depressed state in the engine panel the second time we took the boat out so I couldn't start the engine on the way back to the harbor. After many tries with the starter, the engine eventually started but by then the starter solenoid had burnt out (we can smell it after the engine started). We were lucky to be able to get back to the berth but were not able to get the starter going after that.

There was likely too much drama going on to pay attention to the helm then.

I am waiting for response from the dealer now to let them call the shots on warranty repairs but I thought I would get some ideas here on the forum.

As part of repairing the starter solenoid (which took 3 weeks to arrive), the dealer also smooth out the stop button so it won't stick. It did not look depressed but likely was only out part way and not all the way.

I really do not like push buttons because there is nothing I can do if they don't pop back out. The same goes for the cabinet door latches where we have to push to pop out the knob to turn to unlatch. One of the knobs got stuck in the depressed position when my wife pressed the knob in while some paper towel was hanging around it and bits of paper towel got caught with the knob. I have to learn from the dealer how to fix that as they somehow got the knob out.

I like the boat but luck has not been on my side so far.

Thanks for the help.

Oliver....

 

[Scott B]

I also have the Vari-prop and 3YM30 and over 500 hours in 5 seasons. I typically cruise at 2700, but often push to 3200 for short periods of time to clear the carbon etc. and once to outrun a wicked storm. I've never had any issues related to the prop in that time. We haul out for the winter and I grease the prop each Fall and re-check again before launch.

 

[gregpallen]

I have an e36 delivered easter weekend 2012. I just contacted my dealer about the Sea Furl 5 outer drum rotation problem. Hood is on vacation this week for the July 4 holiday. Last week I tightened two set screws a little but it still turned when I was unfurling the Jib in a stiff breeze. I was afraid to really torque the set screws as I was concerend I might strip something but from the posts it sound like you have to lock it down tight. I will give it a try this week.

My boat also leans to port (even unloaded). Hunter has acknowledged the problem. I added bags of lead shot to starboard and now all is well.

Greg

 

[Ken Honeycutt]

Greg,

I had to torque those set screws really tight to stop the drum from rotating. My first attempt resulted in less rotation but I still experienced problems. My next attempt I really put some torque on them and haven't had any problems since.

 

[Oliverhg]

I had the same issue with the Hood furler on my e36. Tightened the set screws and still the covers would turn. Like you, I. Was concerned with over tightening.

Then I read about Hood's recommendation that the furling line needs to be at right angles to the furling spool. Mine was not and the line was building up on the upper part of the spool causing the line to build up to beyond the spool diameter and therefore started to drag the cover with it when unfurling the last part of the head sail.

The solution was to move the first line guide pulley way down to the bottom of the stanchion close to the deck so that the line is close to right angles to the spool. Now the line wraps evenly on the spool and no longer drag the cover.

Yes, the anchor locker cover hits the guide pulley when the cover is opening or closing but that is minor issue compared to having to go to the bow to unwrap the line from the cover while the wind is blowing hard and you want to furl some head sail in.

 

[Oliverhg]

After working with the dealer to get some attention during the busy season, we finally had them take the boat out to check out the drive train vibration problems and they said that the engine and driveshaft was badly out of alignment.

However, after their alignment, I am still experiencing more vibration than I would like when operating above 3000 rpm. The mechanic said that kind of vibration is normal.

It is certainly more severe than when I had the 33 with a fixed prop and also more than chartered sailboats I experienced.

The mechanic said that with the variprop there is more turbulence than the fixed prop because the variprop is bigger in diameter. He also said that I likely had saildrive on the charter boats and saildrives are smoother at higher rpms because they line up with the water flow and not at an angle like the straight shaft drives.

We are also still experiencing oscillations on the helm when engine rpms are above 2500. Mechanic said that is normal for variprop and big boats.

Does this agree with your experiences out there?

Thanks

Oliver....

 

[Ken Honeycutt]

I installed a Variprop on my H36 last year. I also experience vibration above 3000 RPM that I didn't have with the fixed prop. There is also some oscillation on the helm as you mention at certain RPM. I'm not too concerned since I motor around 2900 RPM and can usually get 6.2 to 6.5 knots. If I'm in a hurry I'll kick it up to 3200 RPM where I can get 7 knots or better but I don't run at that RPM for long periods.

 

[Scott B]

I installed a Variprop on my H36 last year. I also experience vibration above 3000 RPM that I didn't have with the fixed prop. There is also some oscillation on the helm as you mention at certain RPM. I'm not too concerned since I motor around 2900 RPM and can usually get 6.2 to 6.5 knots. If I'm in a hurry I'll kick it up to 3200 RPM where I can get 7 knots or better but I don't run at that RPM for long periods.

I've never had any oscillation or vibrations on my Vari prop at any speed, including above 3000. Doubt it would be due to the 33 being lighter.

 

[Oliverhg]

Hi,

I am now into my second season with my e36 and still having vibration problems when motoring. When motoring above 3000 engine rpm, there is a "thump, thump" beat frequency of about once per second or so. The helm continues to drift to port when motoring above 2000 rpm.

The dealer cannot find anything wrong when the boat was out of the water two weeks ago so we removed the Variprop and put in the factory 2 blade fixed prop.

We no longer have the "thump, thump" but vibration is somewhat higher than I like or as I remembered with my previous 33 with 3 blade fixed prop. I am assuming that is due to 2 blade rather than 3 blade fixed prop.

My dealer tells me this is their first e36 with Variprop.

We are sending the Variprop back to factory in Germany to check out for dynamic balance, play, and blade operation.

If Variprop manufacturer thinks the prop is good, the dealer suggest that we try changing the shaft out for a stiffer shaft and changing the strut. Theory is that maybe the Variprop is too heavy or thrusty for the factory propeller shaft.

We really don't know what the problem is and we are treating possible causes.

Dealer also tells me that the helm drifting to port happens quite often with bigger boats and with Variprop because of the stronger thrust from the prop.

Are there e36 owners out there with Variprop or other similar props with experience to share?

I find it hard to accept that the Variprop put out more thrust as it is coming off the same engine and pitched according to what the engine can deliver so maximum thrust from a Variprop should be no more than a fixed prop if both props are properly pitched and sized for the engine.

 

[Sailbaum]

I had the same issue with the Hood furler.
...

The solution was to move the first line guide pulley way down to the bottom of the stanchion close to the deck so that the line is close to right angles to the spool. Now the line wraps evenly on the spool and no longer drag the cover.

Yes, the anchor locker cover hits the guide pulley when the cover is opening or closing but that is minor issue compared to having to go to the bow to unwrap the line from the cover while the wind is blowing hard and you want to furl some head sail in.

Another solution that seems to work is to move the guide block to the next forward stanchion. This corrects the angle and doesn't interfere with the anchor hatch. Having the line enter at a clear right angle to the forestay is critical.

 

[Oliverhg]

That is a good suggestion about moving the guide block up to the next stanchion. However, my furler drum has been working very well since I lowered the block.

What kind of propeller do you have on your e36?

Are you getting any helm drift to port or excessive vibrations when motoring?