Could another 340 owner please verify that the top of the rudder post at the cockpit deck should be centered through the access hole for the emergency tiller. I'm worried my rudder post isn't plumb based on it being off-center to the deck access hole. See attached picture.
Looking for Hunter 340 owner help
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I don't know about Hunter 340's but there's an interesting thread about Catalina 34's here with the same issue you should check out:
The real key is for the rudder post to be positioned properly, it seems that the cockpit opening is not allways in agreement. Good luck.
There are reports of the top bearing housing busting loose from the glass deck below the cockpit floor on some Hunters, but not on any 340's that I know of. There would be noticeable wobble in the steering if that was the case. Probably sloppy workmanship or misaligned template when the access hole was cut.
One way to be sure, on my 340, only four screws hold that section of the deck over the steering gear. It's real easy to remove and inspect below it. Cracks, wobble, or any misalignment will be real obvious. You do need to check that the emergency tiller will fit in the misaligned hole and operate. Good luck with it.
One way to be sure, on my 340, only four screws hold that section of the deck over the steering gear. It's real easy to remove and inspect below it. Cracks, wobble, or any misalignment will be real obvious. You do need to check that the emergency tiller will fit in the misaligned hole and operate. Good luck with it.
thank you for the reply and link. I am facing the exact same question...factory design or damage and repair. In my case there definitely looks like there was a repair done around the rudder post at the top. It appears the post was slightly tipped toward the aft when it was repaired. I just don't know if it's a big deal or not 
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I would think it is a big deal.
One way to tell is dive the boat and pull on the rudder in all 4 directions. Any movement would say upper bearing is not fixed correctly.
On my 430, the upper rudder bearing is key. My diver, when changing my Zincs, found zero play in my rudder.
Jim...
The boat is still on the hard and I did pull/push on the rudder....no play. Just not sure if it being out of plumb should be a concern. And with the repair work that appears to have been done (see previous post with picture) not sure if I should be concerned beyond cosmetic appearance.
Wow! I have seen some real sloppy glass work on Hunters where two different molded pieces meet, but I don't think that is what this is. I'm going to check mine next chance to see if there is a joint there. Looks like a sloppy repair from the one photo.thank you for the reply and link. I am facing the exact same question...factory design or damage and repair. In my case there definitely looks like there was a repair done around the rudder post at the top. It appears the post was slightly tipped toward the aft when it was repaired. I just don't know if it's a big deal or not
agreed Bill19233...sloppy repair. Seems like everything is 'tight' (no sloppiness in rudder) but I'm concerned about the rudder being out of plumb. Any thoughts on that?
Visually check your rudder angle against this photo and any plan drawings you can find online. And look at the gap between the top of the rudder and the hull aft of the post.
Not much difference in how close it is at the post compared to the back edge of the rudder. However, it wouldn't need to be off by very much to cause it to be off by a couple inches at the top of the post.
Is your post centered at the emergency tiller access hole?
Is your post centered at the emergency tiller access hole?
I was down at the boat today for undisclosed reasons, we’re in lockdown people, we’re not racing sailboats or anything like that. Mine looks worse than yours as far offset from the emergency tiller opening.
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Your secret is safe with me
Were you able to look at the gelcoat around the rudder post (under the cockpit floor board)? Does it look anywhere near as bad as mine?
Were you able to look at the gelcoat around the rudder post (under the cockpit floor board)? Does it look anywhere near as bad as mine?
Next time I'm at the marina I'll look at it, but I don't remember it being anything like the one you're looking at. I didn't have time to open the cockpit floor, had a start time to make. I mean, had to make sure I had enough sanitizer and disinfectant aboard for lockdown.Your secret is safe with me
Were you able to look at the gelcoat around the rudder post (under the cockpit floor board)? Does it look anywhere near as bad as mine?
Just a opinion, but both ET spots look the same to me.
Hint: Don't use the hole as the reference, but use the offset distance to the open part of transom.
Jim...
PS: My marina was super active today. People going fishing, PWC's, pontoon boats with families
PSS: My son-in-laws own a pontoon boat rental business. They are Slammed this weekend. All rented.
Hint: Don't use the hole as the reference, but use the offset distance to the open part of transom.
Jim...
PS: My marina was super active today. People going fishing, PWC's, pontoon boats with families
PSS: My son-in-laws own a pontoon boat rental business. They are Slammed this weekend. All rented.
I saw your post and was at my boat this morning (2000 340). I took a few photos for you to compare with.
I've owned the boat since new 2000. I apologize for the dark photos, the sun was bright but then the clouds came over. My emergency tiller works freely in all directions, it's just bad placement of the access hole, on mine as well, but it doesn't interfere with tiller operation.
Your photo of the area around the post is not original to the boat. You need to examine that further, for structural integrity.
I hope the photos help you out. Keep us informed.
I've owned the boat since new 2000. I apologize for the dark photos, the sun was bright but then the clouds came over. My emergency tiller works freely in all directions, it's just bad placement of the access hole, on mine as well, but it doesn't interfere with tiller operation.
Your photo of the area around the post is not original to the boat. You need to examine that further, for structural integrity.
I hope the photos help you out. Keep us informed.
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Sailcapt340,
Thank you for the pictures and reply. As with mine the ET fits in the rudder post fine and swings free even though the access hole is offset. If the area around the rudder post is in fact a 'repair', it would have been completed at least 6+ years ago by the original owner. The owner I purchased the boat from had no issues since 2015 when he bought the boat. The surveyor in 2015 noted the area as "gelcoat has peeled off of the GRP" and advised to simply repair gelcoat. The area is not wet per moisture meter. Hopefully work was done by qualified persons and no issues will pop up. What does the side of your rudder post look like? See mine below.
Thank you for the pictures and reply. As with mine the ET fits in the rudder post fine and swings free even though the access hole is offset. If the area around the rudder post is in fact a 'repair', it would have been completed at least 6+ years ago by the original owner. The owner I purchased the boat from had no issues since 2015 when he bought the boat. The surveyor in 2015 noted the area as "gelcoat has peeled off of the GRP" and advised to simply repair gelcoat. The area is not wet per moisture meter. Hopefully work was done by qualified persons and no issues will pop up. What does the side of your rudder post look like? See mine below.
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I don't have a photo of the side of the post, but I can say it is solid to the hull. Aside from the dirt you see in the pictures, it's a continuous sloping of fiberglass up to the underside of the rudder bracket.
I grease the ball joints each year, I had a friend with a 1998 340, who never greased his, and the fitting that wraps aroud the ball cracked and fell off. He came back to the marina using the Tiller. We replaced both fittings on his and greasing them have become one of the first things he does each year since.
Just a forgotten and least thought of area on a boat that shouldn't be. The friction caused the fitting to fail, you could actually see burnishing on the ball.
I say this because each year I move the rudder back and forth to grease it and in doing so you can see if there is any movement of the surrounding area.
From your picture, you can see the cracks you have are deep. For me, that would be a real cause for alarm.
Like the others have said in the post, check for any up and down or side to side movement of any degree.
Grease your ball joints also, (they look dry) that will help eliminate stiffness in the steering, which in turn puts stress on the entire system and "may" have cause the delamination you have.
I hope that's the case.
I grease the ball joints each year, I had a friend with a 1998 340, who never greased his, and the fitting that wraps aroud the ball cracked and fell off. He came back to the marina using the Tiller. We replaced both fittings on his and greasing them have become one of the first things he does each year since.
Just a forgotten and least thought of area on a boat that shouldn't be. The friction caused the fitting to fail, you could actually see burnishing on the ball.
I say this because each year I move the rudder back and forth to grease it and in doing so you can see if there is any movement of the surrounding area.
From your picture, you can see the cracks you have are deep. For me, that would be a real cause for alarm.
Like the others have said in the post, check for any up and down or side to side movement of any degree.
Grease your ball joints also, (they look dry) that will help eliminate stiffness in the steering, which in turn puts stress on the entire system and "may" have cause the delamination you have.
I hope that's the case.
Sailcapt 340,
What specific grease do you use for the ball joint?
Do you know if I can access the underside of that area if I remove the rear wall panel in the aft cabin?
What specific grease do you use for the ball joint?
Do you know if I can access the underside of that area if I remove the rear wall panel in the aft cabin?
From back when I first took ownership of the boat, the yacht yard that commissioned the boat told me to use a high grade Moly grease. The same used in cars for the grease fittings. It repels water just like under a car in the rain and snow. I've used that grade since new in 2000, without any issues or replacement of parts.
There are two ball joints, both located under the removable floor in the cockpit.
One at the rudder post, very easy to get to. The other at the front under the wheel. By turning the wheel it exposes the front one.
By twisting the steering linkage arm (about 1/2 inch left or right) the ball fittings move. This allows you to smear grease on both top and bottom of the joint.
Get a small grease gun and a long hose adapter (2 feet). This lets you grease the two grease fittings under the compass on the pedestal and the one fitting at the bottom of the pedestal at floor level. The floor level fitting is hard to reach, that's why the long hose is needed.
Two or three pumps of the handle is enough grease for each. Also smear some grease on the gear at the top of the pedestal. A little grease goes along way, so you don't need much.
It all works to ease the steering and the stress on the whole system.
There are two ball joints, both located under the removable floor in the cockpit.
One at the rudder post, very easy to get to. The other at the front under the wheel. By turning the wheel it exposes the front one.
By twisting the steering linkage arm (about 1/2 inch left or right) the ball fittings move. This allows you to smear grease on both top and bottom of the joint.
Get a small grease gun and a long hose adapter (2 feet). This lets you grease the two grease fittings under the compass on the pedestal and the one fitting at the bottom of the pedestal at floor level. The floor level fitting is hard to reach, that's why the long hose is needed.
Two or three pumps of the handle is enough grease for each. Also smear some grease on the gear at the top of the pedestal. A little grease goes along way, so you don't need much.
It all works to ease the steering and the stress on the whole system.
sailcapt340,
thank you for the info! Are the fittings accessed by the grease gun zerk fittings or are you just using the grease gun/hose to access the area? Where do you access the fittings under the compass from...do you remove the compass?
I was going to use some Lubriplate 930-A that I had left over from an industrial application. Do you think that would work?
thank you for the info! Are the fittings accessed by the grease gun zerk fittings or are you just using the grease gun/hose to access the area? Where do you access the fittings under the compass from...do you remove the compass?
I was going to use some Lubriplate 930-A that I had left over from an industrial application. Do you think that would work?