After 2 months with the new C-30 its time to haul for the winter. looking for a good resource book on Diesel engines to read over the winter. I have the Universal 21hp in her. Looking to do some of the minor work on my own. Just changed the oil for the winter and it was a breeze.
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Diesel
Nigel Calder's Marine Diesel Engines or his book Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual which has most of the former in it. Consider taking Mack Boring's one day course A Day with Your Diesel. I took it last spring in some motel in SE MA. Very good basic stuff. They also have a two day, hands on in NJ.
Nigel Calder's Marine Diesel Engines or his book Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual which has most of the former in it. Consider taking Mack Boring's one day course A Day with Your Diesel. I took it last spring in some motel in SE MA. Very good basic stuff. They also have a two day, hands on in NJ.
Check Online too
Ron, There are also some really good online sites that have message boards similar to this but dedicated completely to marine diesels. Good luck - Rob
Ron, There are also some really good online sites that have message boards similar to this but dedicated completely to marine diesels. Good luck - Rob
Get the Catalina 30 Tech Manual
I've had my 88 30 for 13 years, but occasionally I still refer to the tech manual available from the International Catalina 30 association (see link below). Also, if you haven't joined the association, the quarterly 'Mainsheet' magazine often has good information for our engines (I presume you have the M25 model, which is in numerous size Catalina's). Lastly, just a few of suggestions/quick brain-dump on winterizing your engine since she's new to you: 1. After haul-out, use 2 gallons of the Camco Banfrost 2000 engine 'anti-freeze', sucked through the raw-water intake hose, until 'just' before it is empty (pouring it into a Poland Springs 2.5 gallon container which fits nicely in the bilge works great for me). Remember to drain the water lift muffler before and after doing the anti-freeze, and consider letting the anti-freeze just drain into the the dry bilge to 'winterize' it too. 2. Be sure to check and clean the 'anti-siphon' valve in the raw-water injection 'circuit' before the water-lift muffler, should be in the cabinet below the sink on the starboard side. 3. Remove the raw-water impellor, clean it with just soap/water, and leave it out to 'unset' the blades and to keep the propylene glycol anti-freeze from destroying the impellor (trust me on this, I wrote an article into Mainsheet last fall). Also assuming the 'Sherwood' water pump, consider pulling the pump shaft and lightly greasing it with water pump grease and re-inserting it, but leave the impellor and cover off during the winter. Inspect the cover for excessive wear (if exists, order new one or one of those 'quick release' covers instead), and during the winter order a new cover gasket, albeit newspaper thin, it will leak without it. Lastly, consider installing a new impellor in the spring nonetheless, and keep the removed one as a backup. Also consider using a Globe rubber brand impellor, if memory serves, #1130 matches Sherwood's 10077k (available from Defender). 4. Change both fuel filters in the spring, after a couple of runs. It will allow the old filters to catch the winter 'junk', and give you nice clean filters all summer long. 5. Change the 'pencil' zinc in the heat exchanger also in the Spring (after the anti-freeze has been flushed-out by running the engine (I think it is on the port underside on your 2 inch exchanger, sorry I'm only guessing as I have the M25XP which has a 3 inch exchanger). Also assure no extra pieces of zinc remain inside by using a pinky or small flexible instrument through the zinc hole. Also use a good quality pencil zinc (e.g. CAMP), others can be of poor quality and I have found them to be hollow when cut). Don't forget the air filter, R
I've had my 88 30 for 13 years, but occasionally I still refer to the tech manual available from the International Catalina 30 association (see link below). Also, if you haven't joined the association, the quarterly 'Mainsheet' magazine often has good information for our engines (I presume you have the M25 model, which is in numerous size Catalina's). Lastly, just a few of suggestions/quick brain-dump on winterizing your engine since she's new to you: 1. After haul-out, use 2 gallons of the Camco Banfrost 2000 engine 'anti-freeze', sucked through the raw-water intake hose, until 'just' before it is empty (pouring it into a Poland Springs 2.5 gallon container which fits nicely in the bilge works great for me). Remember to drain the water lift muffler before and after doing the anti-freeze, and consider letting the anti-freeze just drain into the the dry bilge to 'winterize' it too. 2. Be sure to check and clean the 'anti-siphon' valve in the raw-water injection 'circuit' before the water-lift muffler, should be in the cabinet below the sink on the starboard side. 3. Remove the raw-water impellor, clean it with just soap/water, and leave it out to 'unset' the blades and to keep the propylene glycol anti-freeze from destroying the impellor (trust me on this, I wrote an article into Mainsheet last fall). Also assuming the 'Sherwood' water pump, consider pulling the pump shaft and lightly greasing it with water pump grease and re-inserting it, but leave the impellor and cover off during the winter. Inspect the cover for excessive wear (if exists, order new one or one of those 'quick release' covers instead), and during the winter order a new cover gasket, albeit newspaper thin, it will leak without it. Lastly, consider installing a new impellor in the spring nonetheless, and keep the removed one as a backup. Also consider using a Globe rubber brand impellor, if memory serves, #1130 matches Sherwood's 10077k (available from Defender). 4. Change both fuel filters in the spring, after a couple of runs. It will allow the old filters to catch the winter 'junk', and give you nice clean filters all summer long. 5. Change the 'pencil' zinc in the heat exchanger also in the Spring (after the anti-freeze has been flushed-out by running the engine (I think it is on the port underside on your 2 inch exchanger, sorry I'm only guessing as I have the M25XP which has a 3 inch exchanger). Also assure no extra pieces of zinc remain inside by using a pinky or small flexible instrument through the zinc hole. Also use a good quality pencil zinc (e.g. CAMP), others can be of poor quality and I have found them to be hollow when cut). Don't forget the air filter, R
On Line
Check on line at Amazon.com...they should have a manual for your specific engine. I got a Yanmar book for $25 that is far superior to the one that came with the engine.
Check on line at Amazon.com...they should have a manual for your specific engine. I got a Yanmar book for $25 that is far superior to the one that came with the engine.
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