Hello, I have been looking for a Classic Cherubini 27 for a little while now, as time passes, and I read more posts from this forum, the more knowledge I gain. I have read about Compression post rot, core rot, and de-lamination of the glass. I am now armed with my own moisture meter and ready to go find my " dream boat " There a few vessels up for sale right in my area. I have noticed a few different rig configurations. Most have the riser for the Mainsheet and Traveler atop the cabin trunk, some have it aft, in the cockpit, one even has the riser made of wood... Is there any design perfered ? I have my eye on one vessel, but the Boom looks rather short, it also only has one backstay, compared to others I have seen with dual backstay and Longer boom. Again any suggestions ? Tiller or wheel doesn't matter to me. I found one 27 that was well equipped, however, it has been sitting in water for a few years, and although the decks seem firm and sound OK, I a little skeptical as to the condition of the core, and maybe the grid below. I would be willing to do the work required to bring her back to her orignal glory even if the core need attention. My question is, which method of core replacement is best ? I saw John Cherubinis' post that he is introducing 3M 5200 into the core, others styrafoam... How do you get rid of the rotten core ? or do you leave it in , dry it out, and squirt new filler in ? also if the bilge if full and has not been maintained, what is the likelyhood that the grid is rotted. is the grid encased in Fiberglass ? Any response to my questions will be held in high reguard. I'm not boatless, so I can wait for the right one... Thanks, Bryner Raudibaugh S/V Aurora Georgetown, MD.
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The rig has a high aspect main - therefore the short boom. (The Cherubini h27 is a surprising mover once she is cracked off close hauled, so all I'd do is check the boom length against the standard specification in our site.) Our boom comes back a couple of feet over the cockpit. I believe the earlier boats (like our '77 model) have a traveler just aft of the rudder post in the cockpit. This allows end of boom sheeting, which is the best approach for performance and boom loading. We don't find that this is a big deal for two to three people in the cockpit. We have a rail mounted bimini that shades the cockpit aft of the boom. At some later date, Hunter modified the design to provide mid-boom sheeting. This gets the sheet out of the cockpit, and allows a full bimini, at the cost of higher loads on the sheet, and especially on the boom. The standard design did not offer a traveler, but the attachemnts on either side of the cabin roof you may have seen. This is the least effective of the three designs. There are good aftermarket solutions for mounting a traveler for mid-boom sheeting on the cabin roof. It sounds like you saw a DIY version of this. If it is strong, and well installed on the cabin roof, it's probably fine. Split backstays are usually associated with bending the mast to shape flatten the main while racing. The h27 Seldon mast is not designed for this use, and the boat is really a cruiser more than a racer. The single backstay was pretty much a standard for all designs at the time, and is still an excellent solution. Note the the mainsheet and topping lift in the standard h27 configuration offer backstay redundancy while sailing. I have a friend who bought a Juneau 32 with a couple of rotted grid members, and rot of the engine cabinet. He took out the bad members, and associated fiberglass, and replaced the members with new wood, and reglassed it all for a few hundred dollars, and two hundred hours of his labor. Access under the floor liner of the h27 would be an issue that can certainly be resolved. Of course, you should make an offer contingent on a survey, and then get a price reduction at yard prices to cover any problem like this. Either JC II's styrofoam or epoxy replacement would probably work as well. (Although I didn't ask JC if the styrofoam could be as strong as wood.) On the other hand, when we had Lady Lillie out to do some work on her keel after a keel strike, the service manager of the yard said that the 7/8's fiberglass lay-up, grid, and number of keel bolts far surpassed the strength of any other hull he had worked on. It's a great boat. You'll find one you want, I'm sure. David Lady Lillie
The rig has a high aspect main - therefore the short boom. (The Cherubini h27 is a surprising mover once she is cracked off close hauled, so all I'd do is check the boom length against the standard specification in our site.) Our boom comes back a couple of feet over the cockpit. I believe the earlier boats (like our '77 model) have a traveler just aft of the rudder post in the cockpit. This allows end of boom sheeting, which is the best approach for performance and boom loading. We don't find that this is a big deal for two to three people in the cockpit. We have a rail mounted bimini that shades the cockpit aft of the boom. At some later date, Hunter modified the design to provide mid-boom sheeting. This gets the sheet out of the cockpit, and allows a full bimini, at the cost of higher loads on the sheet, and especially on the boom. The standard design did not offer a traveler, but the attachemnts on either side of the cabin roof you may have seen. This is the least effective of the three designs. There are good aftermarket solutions for mounting a traveler for mid-boom sheeting on the cabin roof. It sounds like you saw a DIY version of this. If it is strong, and well installed on the cabin roof, it's probably fine. Split backstays are usually associated with bending the mast to shape flatten the main while racing. The h27 Seldon mast is not designed for this use, and the boat is really a cruiser more than a racer. The single backstay was pretty much a standard for all designs at the time, and is still an excellent solution. Note the the mainsheet and topping lift in the standard h27 configuration offer backstay redundancy while sailing. I have a friend who bought a Juneau 32 with a couple of rotted grid members, and rot of the engine cabinet. He took out the bad members, and associated fiberglass, and replaced the members with new wood, and reglassed it all for a few hundred dollars, and two hundred hours of his labor. Access under the floor liner of the h27 would be an issue that can certainly be resolved. Of course, you should make an offer contingent on a survey, and then get a price reduction at yard prices to cover any problem like this. Either JC II's styrofoam or epoxy replacement would probably work as well. (Although I didn't ask JC if the styrofoam could be as strong as wood.) On the other hand, when we had Lady Lillie out to do some work on her keel after a keel strike, the service manager of the yard said that the 7/8's fiberglass lay-up, grid, and number of keel bolts far surpassed the strength of any other hull he had worked on. It's a great boat. You'll find one you want, I'm sure. David Lady Lillie
B
Bryner
Thanks for the response
David,Thanks for the quick response. I have read your many posts on the forum. All the more info helps.
David,Thanks for the quick response. I have read your many posts on the forum. All the more info helps.
M
Mike Collier
1980 Hunter 27 for sale
A guy at the marina where I berth my H30 has a real peach on the market. He has cared for this boat with meticulous detail. It has 8 hp diesel rebuilt, painted deck, bottom epoxy coat this year, hauled every 2 years serviced and bottom coated, sails cleaned and reworked, roller furling, bimini, gas grill. This H27 is in very good condition. Survey should substantiate to this claim. He is asking 10,500. I almost bought this boat, but went for the H30 instead. If interested, I'll find his name and number.
A guy at the marina where I berth my H30 has a real peach on the market. He has cared for this boat with meticulous detail. It has 8 hp diesel rebuilt, painted deck, bottom epoxy coat this year, hauled every 2 years serviced and bottom coated, sails cleaned and reworked, roller furling, bimini, gas grill. This H27 is in very good condition. Survey should substantiate to this claim. He is asking 10,500. I almost bought this boat, but went for the H30 instead. If interested, I'll find his name and number.
Own one and may upgrade...
Great boat, we own one and have completely refurbished her; including replacing the old yanmar with a new yanmar 2gm20. Of course now that the work is done; and an addition to the family we are considering upgrading for cabin room. I would like to speak with you regarding your search. My email is jwurch@yahoo.com
Great boat, we own one and have completely refurbished her; including replacing the old yanmar with a new yanmar 2gm20. Of course now that the work is done; and an addition to the family we are considering upgrading for cabin room. I would like to speak with you regarding your search. My email is jwurch@yahoo.com
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