Looking at a 1987 MacGregor 26D

JBP-PA · Jun 26, 2022

In addition to the usual sail, motor, trailer, etc. condition, you want to check out the ballast tanks. The valve on those tanks would wear out, which isn't the end of the world if they leak, but if they seize up you will be sad. Also the tanks themselves tend to develop leaks into the boat. They can be repaired if you are handy with fiberglass.

Tedd · Jun 26, 2022

I bought a 1995 Mac 26S, which I sold last year. There weren't any serious issues with it but here are a few things to look at, off the top of my head.

Regarding ballast tanks, my understanding is that the biggest risk is from water freezing in the tank. The odds of that obviously depend on where the boat has spent its life, so it's worth learning that history. But they can also be damaged (I've heard) by towing the boat without draining the ballast. It's worth getting some history on the boat and having a good look to satisfy yourself on that front.
Have a good look at the rudder for signs of water ingress. They can get waterlogged if there's damage to the fiberglass. I'm not familiar with the centerboard on the earlier Macs but I imagine you'll want to look for signs of waterlogging there, too. Most likely they're fine, but worth looking at.
My standing rigging developed rust on some of the cable eyes and fittings. So long as it's superficial you can manage it with ACF-50, Waxoyl, or a similar product, but if it's bad enough you might need to replace some parts.
My tiller bushings had some wear and that was another job I would have done if I'd kept the boat.

I'd also have a good look at the centerboard mechanism. My boat had the swing keel, which is completely different, so I can't advise you on any specifics.

You'll also want to have a good look at the trailer. Trailers are pretty simple and it's unlikely there's anything wrong that you can't easily fix. But you'll want to make sure that it's road worthy before hitching up to tow it home. You probably know most everything you need to know about that already so I won't tell you how to suck eggs. But make sure you check the surge brakes. You can do that by jacking up a wheel and having someone apply force to the tongue while you rotate the wheel. A six foot 2x4 makes an adequate lever to apply force to the tongue. If you can't apply enough force with that to activate the brakes then there's probably something wrong.

Justin_NSA · Jun 26, 2022

I had a 26S for about 10 years . Never had any issues with the boat. Sails and motor are the expensive areas to look at

stickinthemud57 · Jun 27, 2022

As a 26S owner, I can see a definite and obvious advantage to the swing centerboard over the daggerboard. I drove from Fort Worth to St. Louis to get my S, and am glad I did.
Not to say the D is not a good choice. At least you can't "ground hard" like you might with a keel boat, but it is not quite as care-free as with an S.

Justin_NSA · Jun 29, 2022

They are easy to tow assuming the trailer is in good shape. You could comfortably expand your search distance if it helps locate an S

stickinthemud57 · Jun 29, 2022

Kenflyet said:
Hello Stickinthemud57
Yes I am thinking hard about purchasing the 26D versus a 26S given most of my sailing is around the Charleston SC coastal areas heavily filled with shifting sandbars. I am looking for a 26S in commuting distance to see what is available. Thanks for the info.

Then yes, it sounds like holding out for a S is going to be your best bet. I found mine using Craigslist, but there's no "easy" way that I am aware of. You will just have to be sure you are hitting all the possibilities within your radius. There was one available not long ago in the DFW area, but it does not show any more.

Tedd · Jun 29, 2022

I second @stickinthemud57 's comment. The D is an equally worthy a boat in every other respect, and the daggerboard may even have some advantages. But the swing keel gave me great peace of mind and I was glad I bought one, even though I had to drive a 900 mile round trip to get it.