So..
So after reading RAD's link it seems I'm not so off base buying OEM filters. My assertion is spot on about the amount of filter media in the Fram standard filters and the construction and backed up by this unbiased, non-industry data. It seems the Motorcraft, the same one my Ford dealer installs, sells for $3.00 and has 400 feet of filter surface area, solid construction and anti-drain valve technology while the Fram, everyone keeps talking up, also sells for $3.00 but has less than HALF the filter media at 193 square feet and also has questionable build quality and numerous reported problems according to this research and data. The other filter that stood out was the Purolator Pure One which is almost DOUBLE the price of the OEM's (Motorcraft & AC Delco and according to this research is virtually identical in construction techniques to the Motorcraft. Why buy the after market for nearly double the money when the OEM Motorcraft is virtually the same build quality??? Why do I trust and use OEM filters? Because a car manufacturer or engine manufacturer has a reputation to uphold more so than "Joe's X-Brand Oil Filter Company" does... Here's a quoted summary (not my words the researchers) of the "filters to avoid" which came out of this research: "Filters To Avoid The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer. Fram Extra Guard Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it. Fram Double Guard Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure releif valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter. Penzoil This filter is a Fram! It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version. Quaker State This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Penzoil..."
