Long distance towing - any advise?

[Sea22]

Spare Hub for Insurance

I just pulled from DFW to the Florida Gulf Coast for the first time in May. A colleague who pulls long distances all the time with his bass boat recommended getting a hub kit for insurance. I got mine at Northern Tool, and it cost around $30. It includes a hub, bearings, and lug nuts. I put it all in a little tool box with wrenches and a grease gun. Every time I get gas I check the trailer and hubs. I have bearing buddies and check those at the first stop after the trailer has been being dipped in the water.

I had no trouble on my trip, but I felt better knowing I was prepared if I did. Fair Winds.

 

[alexco38]

Like Sea22 suggested, get a spare bearing kit. Better yet, add a Black and Decker remote thermometer, about $30. Check the bearing temp every stop. Pump grease into the hub every morning if you have a bearing buddy.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-TLD100-Thermal-Detector/dp/B001LMTW2S

Bring a spare tire because it is next to impossible to get a replacement when you are on the road. Car air pump and jack would be essential.

For the car, because your Mac 25 is not water ballasted thus heavier. I used to won a Mac26S water ballasted and trailer her quite a bit every year. Look into getting a transmission cooler for the car. Automatic transmission don't like running really hot for a long time.

The stock Mac 25 trailer doesn't have surge brakes. So take the outboard off and put it in the car. The trailer tongue should be properly weighted and greased to avoid fish tailing.

Have fun.

 

[centerline]

Is the Trooper a '91 or newer that is quite a bit heavier than the ones before that? The earlier 3700 lb. ones would be light for towing in my opinion. If it is an automatic I'd for sure get a transmission cooler sized for it. If it has overdrive don't pull in that gear (see your operator's manual).

As for the trailer, it is going to be a lot safer if it has two axles and I would not want to tow that far and into heavier eastern traffic without working brakes on the trailer.

I'd also recommend keeping speeds under 65 and less especially if you don't have brakes on the trailer. If the tires are more than 4 years old I'd replace them no matter how much tread they have on them. Over 5 years old and I'll almost bet money that they blow out. Make sure you have a spare, a jack/blocks that will work and that someone hasn't put the lug nuts on so tight that you can't loosen them.

Repack the wheel bearings and if you aren't real confident doing that have someone who is do it.

Now drive like everyone is going to pull out in front of you and or cut you off as they will :cry:.

All is not bad news though. We have pulled thousands of miles without incident so far,

Sum

I agree with everything posted here... except I would like to mention that the rain doesnt hurt our tires here in oregon , like the sun does in other parts of the country.... a GOOD tire store will let you know the condition and if you need to worry about replacing them now. its a big expense here as trailer tires are well over 100 dollars apiece here in the willamette valley area... but still cheaper than a road call and possibly a new wheel and/or fender....

 

[finding41]

I don't think I would grease the trailer tongue. You are just asking for a mess on your pant legs. I know. I lent work van and trailer to a buddy and he greased the ball and hitch!
What a mess! It took me about 15 min of messing around (Really messing!) to finally get the gobs of grease out from inside it.
If you are concerned about friction (a good thing as it is what keeps the trailer attached to the vehicle) just give the hitch a shot of silicone lube spray and wipe it out after you get to ware you are going.