When I bought my used 22' boat last year the owner mentioned something about the locking down of the keel and since, i have read about the swing keel system in my owner's manual. However, my locking pin seems to be frozen? has this happened to anyone? I have sprayed it with some marine wd40 type stuff but it doesn't seem to help. I raise and lower the keel all the time without a problem and i know that the cable it new but i am worried that I have never locked it down? i welcome any thoughts on the subject. Bernie
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it depends
I've owned a C22 for 2 years. It was my "step up" boat and has been great. I read the same things about locking the keel. I have never locked it down and have had no problems - BUT - if the keel is not locked and gets kicked up for some reason the cable could snap as it goes back down -OOPS! I have felt the keel do just that on a very minor basis, but it made me kind of nervous. My goal, therefore is to never ground the keel.
I've owned a C22 for 2 years. It was my "step up" boat and has been great. I read the same things about locking the keel. I have never locked it down and have had no problems - BUT - if the keel is not locked and gets kicked up for some reason the cable could snap as it goes back down -OOPS! I have felt the keel do just that on a very minor basis, but it made me kind of nervous. My goal, therefore is to never ground the keel.
Know what it does
A 500+ lb keel will do what it needs to do. If you strike the groud with a 2500+ lb boat a 1/2 inch bolt will not stop the keel from folding, and once the bolt is bent (or torn out of the socket), it will not slow the keel's return trip down. Looking at the position, type, and alignment, of the locking bolt, one can figure it greatest value is limiting the side play of the keel. This will limit the kluncking noise a keel make as it destroys it's pivot pin. If you look at keel pivot upgrade kits you can see they address this aspect, and "preventing" keel retractionin the event of grounding is not the concern. OR... Do it becuase the manual says so. AND... As Bruce stated, stay away from the bottom.
)
A 500+ lb keel will do what it needs to do. If you strike the groud with a 2500+ lb boat a 1/2 inch bolt will not stop the keel from folding, and once the bolt is bent (or torn out of the socket), it will not slow the keel's return trip down. Looking at the position, type, and alignment, of the locking bolt, one can figure it greatest value is limiting the side play of the keel. This will limit the kluncking noise a keel make as it destroys it's pivot pin. If you look at keel pivot upgrade kits you can see they address this aspect, and "preventing" keel retractionin the event of grounding is not the concern. OR... Do it becuase the manual says so. AND... As Bruce stated, stay away from the bottom.
)Penetrating Oil
You might try penetrating oil on the threads, repeating its application many times over a couple of weeks if necessary. And light tapping on the bolt then with a hammer might help. It has been said that if we capsize and the keel bolt is not fastened that the keel will fall into its case with a loud bang, perhaps breaking the fiberglass, and that without the leverage of an extended keel we may go to the bottom. But I have never tested this myself and am not sure that the bolt will really prevent this mishap anyway, but figure its worth the effort to follow their instructions just in case. Dick K.
You might try penetrating oil on the threads, repeating its application many times over a couple of weeks if necessary. And light tapping on the bolt then with a hammer might help. It has been said that if we capsize and the keel bolt is not fastened that the keel will fall into its case with a loud bang, perhaps breaking the fiberglass, and that without the leverage of an extended keel we may go to the bottom. But I have never tested this myself and am not sure that the bolt will really prevent this mishap anyway, but figure its worth the effort to follow their instructions just in case. Dick K.
keel
hello bernie, my lock down bolt was bent. it took a pipe wrench to remove it. although i had no problm, be ready to re-glass the threaded bushing back into the trunk. good luck john
hello bernie, my lock down bolt was bent. it took a pipe wrench to remove it. although i had no problm, be ready to re-glass the threaded bushing back into the trunk. good luck john
just a thought
mine is a 74 and i have done some work to it the past year. the first think i did was to remove the keel. i played around with the lock down pin a little. one thing i found was that it liked to go all the way in. It did back out, but,it didnt want to come all the way out, because of all the rust on the end of it. which of course i didnt find out until removing the keel. maybe you could try to turn the pin as trying to lock the keel down. its hard to get any kind of oil in there since its lying sideways..but keep spraying something on it. try to get past the keel, of course wearing eye protection, and spray something up in there..if you can use a small diameter deep socket on the "handle" of the pin, that might help give u a little more leverage. also, you might try knockin the pin a little with a hammer so as to vibrate it, more than actually tryin to turn it. just dont bang on it too hard.. if the pin and nut in the hull are rusted together... like now all one piece.. hmmm.. good luck..
mine is a 74 and i have done some work to it the past year. the first think i did was to remove the keel. i played around with the lock down pin a little. one thing i found was that it liked to go all the way in. It did back out, but,it didnt want to come all the way out, because of all the rust on the end of it. which of course i didnt find out until removing the keel. maybe you could try to turn the pin as trying to lock the keel down. its hard to get any kind of oil in there since its lying sideways..but keep spraying something on it. try to get past the keel, of course wearing eye protection, and spray something up in there..if you can use a small diameter deep socket on the "handle" of the pin, that might help give u a little more leverage. also, you might try knockin the pin a little with a hammer so as to vibrate it, more than actually tryin to turn it. just dont bang on it too hard.. if the pin and nut in the hull are rusted together... like now all one piece.. hmmm.. good luck..
Keel Locking Bolt
Been sailing my 73 swing keel #2226 for 3 years now. Removed the old locking strap and replaced it with the locking strap from Catalina direct. Frankly I never use it. Sailed in 25 knots of wind last weekend, rails in the water without a problem. I know you'll read about the keel popping in to the keel notch if you turn turtle in a knockdown, but I don't believe that little bolt is going to stop 600 pounds of steel wanting to go back to its home. Righting the boat is a low priority on my list of things to do after rolling the boat anyway. My opinion is to pull the bolt and glass the hole over. You'll also end up with less water in that compartment from the leak-by associated with a new locking bolt. Campy out
Been sailing my 73 swing keel #2226 for 3 years now. Removed the old locking strap and replaced it with the locking strap from Catalina direct. Frankly I never use it. Sailed in 25 knots of wind last weekend, rails in the water without a problem. I know you'll read about the keel popping in to the keel notch if you turn turtle in a knockdown, but I don't believe that little bolt is going to stop 600 pounds of steel wanting to go back to its home. Righting the boat is a low priority on my list of things to do after rolling the boat anyway. My opinion is to pull the bolt and glass the hole over. You'll also end up with less water in that compartment from the leak-by associated with a new locking bolt. Campy out
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