Lock Bolt - V22

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Faris

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Apr 20, 2011
232
Catalina 27 San Juan Islands
Hi,

So, I'm having a bear of a time removing the keel lock bolt. There is no way it should be this difficult, so I'm thinking that either there is some secret I am missing or I just need more brute force. Here's the back story:

I just bought the boat a few months ago. The keel was rebuilt last fall and installed by a good boatyard. All bolts are in great shape - no rust/corrosion, no apparent bends or stripped threads. Gaskets are intact with no leaking, and the keel itself looks good. Since it was rebuilt, the previous owner had never lowered the keel, so the lock bolt was in place with the keel in the up position.

No problem. I lowered the keel and have sailed it without locking the keel. Sailing around the bay and such I haven't worried about this too much, but it is time to lock the keel down.

So, we pulled the little white plastic plug off and threw a 3/4" socket on the bolt head. The bolt turned with no problem. Quickly realized that there is a nut on the backside (up at an awkward angle through the battery compartment). No problem. Put a wrench back there and was able to turn the nut about once around before the resistance exceed the tools and muscle available.

After much cursing, I finally began to wonder if the bolt, for some reason, was reverse-threaded. I couldn't see/feel the end of the bolt well enough to confirm or deny. So, we turn it back - again about one full turn before it became too hard to turn.

We worked on this for 2 hours when the voice of reason (the wife) spoke up and suggested we move on to another project and ask around to see if there is something we are missing.

I'm at a bit of a loss. We put a LOT of torque on that bolt - to the point where I was sure I would twist it off. The nut and bolt themselves don't look remarkable in any way - just a 3/4" hex head. The nut is not even a locking nut. There is a locking washer on between the nut and the rubber gasket, but that would be one heck of a locking washer if that was the problem.

Any ideas? The bolt turns freely. I can almost turn it with my fingers. It's just that it turns with the nut. It kind of feels like the bolt is severely bent, but the nut is just 1/2" from the end of the bolt, and can't really be bent enough to resist the torque we put on it. My next try will be to borrow and impact wrench and see what I can do. I'm really close to just cutting the bolt off.
 
Feb 20, 2011
8,060
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
Maybe squirt some penetrant on the offending threads, and let it soak for awhile? Aside from that, getting a bigger/longer set of wrenches on it is another suggestion. It can be broken off. Once that happens, I think I'd switch the nut to the outer side on the new assembly. $.02
 

Timo42

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Mar 26, 2007
1,042
Venture 22 Marina del Rey
Did they use a stainless bolt and nut? sounds like it's seized, whatever kind of bolt/nut they used. Some penetrating oil on the nut may help, 3/4"head seems really large for what should be a 3/8" bolt. Go ahead and cut it off, it's bent anyway. I usually don't bother with the nut, the weight of the keel will hold it in place.
 
Sep 25, 2008
961
Macgregor & Island Packet VENTURE 25 & IP-38 NORTH EAST, MD
Faris, it appears you are the victim of the dreaded stainless nut to bolt galling! It seems like when you use a bolt from one source and a nut from another, the threads are slightly off sometimes and will gall. Once this happens, its like they're welded together. I feel for ya, you'll have to cut the nut (if you can get to it) or try to break the bolt (if its a 1/2" bolt....good luck with that). This happened to me with 1/4" bolts on my deck hardware and I just get a big old breaker bar and snap the bolt. The galling problem can be somewhat avoided if the threads are lubricated when assembling (no amount of lubrication will help once they are galled). The easiest (by this read "most accessible") way to get the bolt out might be to drill the head off the bolt (start with a small bit and work your way up, in fact as you get close to the bolt diameter, you might be able to twist it off). Stainless is great, but man is it tough to work with!
 
Feb 20, 2011
8,060
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
And, the manufacturer suggests only tightening the nut finger-tight. Call me chicken, but I go a little past finger-tight.
 

Faris

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Apr 20, 2011
232
Catalina 27 San Juan Islands
So, it appears that it was a case of the wrong nut for the bolt. It's not very evident in the picture, but I can see how the threading is slightly altered from the end of the bolt to where the nut is. I ended up drilling out the head and twisting it off ... but not before spending $25 to rent an impact wrench for a couple of hours to try in vain to work it loose.

The bolt was straight as an arrow though, which surprised me. I was also surprised at how much farther down the keel went with the lock bolt out of the way. I expect she will point a bit better now. Not sure how much.

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Jun 3, 2004
1,863
Macgregor 25 So. Cal.
One season I purchased a bright new mast bolt and nylock nut just because.

WELL!!!

After sailing about four hours it was time to go.

When mounting the nut I just ran it up the bolt enuff to get a couple of threads past the locking nylon and used no real pressure.

I had to break the bolt to remove the nut to lower the mast.

To this day I don't know why it happened but now the 20 year old boat is still in service and working fine.
 
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