I have a marine head and the raw water inlet for it is pulling from the balast tank. I know that is a bad idea but that is how it was done. The inspection did not notice it or I would have had it changed by the previous owner or got the price reduced to have it done. So my question is for Hunter 26 owners or anyone interested in giving there opinion, much wlecome. Where and what type of sea cock should I have installed? I will cap off the tank fitting which is located in the cabinet in the head but I am interested it were other owners have theres plumbed. A picture would be great. I will have a professional do the installation since it will be below the water line. Should I use a ball or gate type valve? What size is recommended? Carl S/V Wind Shadow
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WOW
Can’t help but wonder if the installer thought they were drilling through the hull when they did that. I haven’t installed a thru-hull on my H26, but have on my other boat. Not difficult – you’ll have to have it out of the water of course (well, that would be much easier any way). I would think a flat mushroom headed thru-hull would be the choice of shapes. I don’t think the H26 has a thick enough hull to grind out for a beveled thru-hull. What kind of thru-hull or valve is like asking what’s better, a Ford or Chevy. You’ll get a variety of answers. You could use a brass (bronze) fitting if you were looking for a ground to water for lightning protection. Would suggest not being on the head during a storm however. In thinking of my pack-ratting about the boat, you will need to go forward under the seats to get to the hull, or aft (under the bunk). I don’t think you can get through the hull below water line in the head. That’s just amazing to think about, pulling from the ballast tank. Oh well. By the way – the answer to the above question is Dodge.
Can’t help but wonder if the installer thought they were drilling through the hull when they did that. I haven’t installed a thru-hull on my H26, but have on my other boat. Not difficult – you’ll have to have it out of the water of course (well, that would be much easier any way). I would think a flat mushroom headed thru-hull would be the choice of shapes. I don’t think the H26 has a thick enough hull to grind out for a beveled thru-hull. What kind of thru-hull or valve is like asking what’s better, a Ford or Chevy. You’ll get a variety of answers. You could use a brass (bronze) fitting if you were looking for a ground to water for lightning protection. Would suggest not being on the head during a storm however. In thinking of my pack-ratting about the boat, you will need to go forward under the seats to get to the hull, or aft (under the bunk). I don’t think you can get through the hull below water line in the head. That’s just amazing to think about, pulling from the ballast tank. Oh well. By the way – the answer to the above question is Dodge.
I suspect it was done on purpose...
I betcha the PO "upgraded" from a portapotty came up with a brainstorm that drawing flush water from the ballast tank would allow him to avoid installing a thru-hull and seacock and let him with fresh water instead of sea water. Definitely creative...and I'm not altogether certain it's a bad idea as long as the ballast water is changed regularly instead of loading it up with bleach. Bleach is murder on the rubber parts in a marine toilet...ballast tank water that's stagnated in the summer heat for while is NO improvement on sea water...in fact stagnant sea water is an improvement on it. But flushing with clean ballast water...why not? Unless there's a cast of thousands aboard, I don't see how a few flushes a day can alter the ballast enough to matter. Otoh, I don't know much about water ballast. But I can't think of any reason off the top of my head why it's harmful to the toilet and tank except for the two things I mentioned above--beach and/or stagant water. If you can keep your ballast water fresh, I wouldn't mess with it unless it would affect the performance/trim/whatever of the boat.
I betcha the PO "upgraded" from a portapotty came up with a brainstorm that drawing flush water from the ballast tank would allow him to avoid installing a thru-hull and seacock and let him with fresh water instead of sea water. Definitely creative...and I'm not altogether certain it's a bad idea as long as the ballast water is changed regularly instead of loading it up with bleach. Bleach is murder on the rubber parts in a marine toilet...ballast tank water that's stagnated in the summer heat for while is NO improvement on sea water...in fact stagnant sea water is an improvement on it. But flushing with clean ballast water...why not? Unless there's a cast of thousands aboard, I don't see how a few flushes a day can alter the ballast enough to matter. Otoh, I don't know much about water ballast. But I can't think of any reason off the top of my head why it's harmful to the toilet and tank except for the two things I mentioned above--beach and/or stagant water. If you can keep your ballast water fresh, I wouldn't mess with it unless it would affect the performance/trim/whatever of the boat.
Thru-hull location
I suggest you recheck where your thru-hull is actually located. Have you inspected the outside of the hull? I have attached a picture inside the cabinet in the head of my 260 and you could not place a thru-hull into the ballast tank due to the shape of the tank at that location (see picture). The curved hip at the bottom of the door is the edge of the tank where it attaches to the hull. The valve is of brass construction but I'm not sure if it's a gate or ball valve. Brigg
I suggest you recheck where your thru-hull is actually located. Have you inspected the outside of the hull? I have attached a picture inside the cabinet in the head of my 260 and you could not place a thru-hull into the ballast tank due to the shape of the tank at that location (see picture). The curved hip at the bottom of the door is the edge of the tank where it attaches to the hull. The valve is of brass construction but I'm not sure if it's a gate or ball valve. Brigg
Attachments
Picture won't come up send again please
Could you send the picture again or put it in the photo forum. Carl
Could you send the picture again or put it in the photo forum. Carl
Peggy – FYI on water ballast
Peggy, the water in the ballast would be salt water unless the boat were launched in fresh water then sailed out to salt water. Also, the ballast is a closed system. Has to be in order to function. As the boat is heeled up, the water in the ballast tank is raised above water line – hence weight. If you were to pull water out of the ballast, you’d have to open the ballast drain with each flush to replace water pumped out. Your right about the smell of the ballast water – even with breach it can get a might stinky.
Peggy, the water in the ballast would be salt water unless the boat were launched in fresh water then sailed out to salt water. Also, the ballast is a closed system. Has to be in order to function. As the boat is heeled up, the water in the ballast tank is raised above water line – hence weight. If you were to pull water out of the ballast, you’d have to open the ballast drain with each flush to replace water pumped out. Your right about the smell of the ballast water – even with breach it can get a might stinky.
Shows how much I know about water ballast
I thought ballast tanks were filled with a hose (actually, why not? Wouldn't stink as bad.) Next time I'm at a boat show, I guess I should learn a little more about how water ballast works.
I thought ballast tanks were filled with a hose (actually, why not? Wouldn't stink as bad.) Next time I'm at a boat show, I guess I should learn a little more about how water ballast works.
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