When ever we load the 260 (which is about every weekend) we have trouble with her sliding back on the trailer as we pull up the ramp. Then there is the task of winching her up to the bow roller on the trailer. Usually this is about 3-4 inches and takes a lot of pressure with the handle. If we wind her up tight on the ramp while she is still in the water when we go up the ramp she moves and of course the bow roller deposits rubber on the bow where they meet. Any brilliant ideas on this one?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
J
John Pollitt
Couple of ideas
One, you could put a piece of some heavy fabric, like carpeting, between the roller and the bow, just before you winch it tight. Or, once you're off the ramp, you can sometimes slide them forward by braking. I'd do the first one, myself. Good luck, John S/V Icymoon
One, you could put a piece of some heavy fabric, like carpeting, between the roller and the bow, just before you winch it tight. Or, once you're off the ramp, you can sometimes slide them forward by braking. I'd do the first one, myself. Good luck, John S/V Icymoon
J
John Pollitt
Couple of ideas
One, you could put a piece of some heavy fabric, like carpeting, between the roller and the bow, just before you winch it tight. Or, once you're off the ramp, you can sometimes slide them forward by braking. I'd do the first one, myself. Good luck, John S/V Icymoon
One, you could put a piece of some heavy fabric, like carpeting, between the roller and the bow, just before you winch it tight. Or, once you're off the ramp, you can sometimes slide them forward by braking. I'd do the first one, myself. Good luck, John S/V Icymoon
M
Mark Price
winch tension
I found if I used wire cable on the winch, when I pull forward out of the water the boat does not settle back as it does not streach the cable....the problem I had with nylon strap. I also find that if I get the trailer just a little farther in the water I do not have to winch so hard to get the boat all the way forward. Mark S/V Wendy Lee
I found if I used wire cable on the winch, when I pull forward out of the water the boat does not settle back as it does not streach the cable....the problem I had with nylon strap. I also find that if I get the trailer just a little farther in the water I do not have to winch so hard to get the boat all the way forward. Mark S/V Wendy Lee
M
Mark Price
winch tension
I found if I used wire cable on the winch, when I pull forward out of the water the boat does not settle back as it does not streach the cable....the problem I had with nylon strap. I also find that if I get the trailer just a little farther in the water I do not have to winch so hard to get the boat all the way forward. Mark S/V Wendy Lee
I found if I used wire cable on the winch, when I pull forward out of the water the boat does not settle back as it does not streach the cable....the problem I had with nylon strap. I also find that if I get the trailer just a little farther in the water I do not have to winch so hard to get the boat all the way forward. Mark S/V Wendy Lee
C
Crazy Dave Condon
Teflon pads
Jim Seamons found a product that he put on his bunk boards and made the boat move forward alot easier. Check the archives. Also,replace the black rollers with the yellow and yuou will not get that crapy black stuff on the bow. Crazy DAve qojrtonveuqvomo
Jim Seamons found a product that he put on his bunk boards and made the boat move forward alot easier. Check the archives. Also,replace the black rollers with the yellow and yuou will not get that crapy black stuff on the bow. Crazy DAve qojrtonveuqvomo
C
Crazy Dave Condon
Teflon pads
Jim Seamons found a product that he put on his bunk boards and made the boat move forward alot easier. Check the archives. Also,replace the black rollers with the yellow and yuou will not get that crapy black stuff on the bow. Crazy DAve qojrtonveuqvomo
Jim Seamons found a product that he put on his bunk boards and made the boat move forward alot easier. Check the archives. Also,replace the black rollers with the yellow and yuou will not get that crapy black stuff on the bow. Crazy DAve qojrtonveuqvomo
R
Rick Webb
Keep in Mind it Goes Both Ways
If it slides up easier it'll slide down and off easier. If it only comes off when you'd like it to no problem. I added a chain to keep the boat from coming off when I would rather it not. To aide it coming forward I squirt some dish soap on the bunks before I bring the boat back on. Look in the archives for this one we talk about it a couple of times a year at least. That urethane bow stop that Dave talks about is great as well.
If it slides up easier it'll slide down and off easier. If it only comes off when you'd like it to no problem. I added a chain to keep the boat from coming off when I would rather it not. To aide it coming forward I squirt some dish soap on the bunks before I bring the boat back on. Look in the archives for this one we talk about it a couple of times a year at least. That urethane bow stop that Dave talks about is great as well.
R
Rick Webb
Keep in Mind it Goes Both Ways
If it slides up easier it'll slide down and off easier. If it only comes off when you'd like it to no problem. I added a chain to keep the boat from coming off when I would rather it not. To aide it coming forward I squirt some dish soap on the bunks before I bring the boat back on. Look in the archives for this one we talk about it a couple of times a year at least. That urethane bow stop that Dave talks about is great as well.
If it slides up easier it'll slide down and off easier. If it only comes off when you'd like it to no problem. I added a chain to keep the boat from coming off when I would rather it not. To aide it coming forward I squirt some dish soap on the bunks before I bring the boat back on. Look in the archives for this one we talk about it a couple of times a year at least. That urethane bow stop that Dave talks about is great as well.
R
Ray Bowles
Mark, Ray here, When we loaded our H26
I found that refloating the boat after the ballast has been dumped (float her as deep as possible ) and then cranking the bow line in until the bow eye is darn near driven into the winch works well. If the eye is not very high in relation to the winch then she'll slide back. By doing this in the water there will be much less drag caused by the boat draging on the bunks. The teflon pads on the forward ends of the trailer works great. S/V Scooter PS. We're in Alabama right now and have just about finished setting the boat up for the great adventure. Plan to leave for the mid Florida west coast in about 10 days. Love the life style although this part can be quite expensive. More later.
I found that refloating the boat after the ballast has been dumped (float her as deep as possible ) and then cranking the bow line in until the bow eye is darn near driven into the winch works well. If the eye is not very high in relation to the winch then she'll slide back. By doing this in the water there will be much less drag caused by the boat draging on the bunks. The teflon pads on the forward ends of the trailer works great. S/V Scooter PS. We're in Alabama right now and have just about finished setting the boat up for the great adventure. Plan to leave for the mid Florida west coast in about 10 days. Love the life style although this part can be quite expensive. More later.
R
Ray Bowles
Mark, Ray here, When we loaded our H26
I found that refloating the boat after the ballast has been dumped (float her as deep as possible ) and then cranking the bow line in until the bow eye is darn near driven into the winch works well. If the eye is not very high in relation to the winch then she'll slide back. By doing this in the water there will be much less drag caused by the boat draging on the bunks. The teflon pads on the forward ends of the trailer works great. S/V Scooter PS. We're in Alabama right now and have just about finished setting the boat up for the great adventure. Plan to leave for the mid Florida west coast in about 10 days. Love the life style although this part can be quite expensive. More later.
I found that refloating the boat after the ballast has been dumped (float her as deep as possible ) and then cranking the bow line in until the bow eye is darn near driven into the winch works well. If the eye is not very high in relation to the winch then she'll slide back. By doing this in the water there will be much less drag caused by the boat draging on the bunks. The teflon pads on the forward ends of the trailer works great. S/V Scooter PS. We're in Alabama right now and have just about finished setting the boat up for the great adventure. Plan to leave for the mid Florida west coast in about 10 days. Love the life style although this part can be quite expensive. More later.
M
Mark
M
Mark
G
G. Bassett
Double dunk
I do what Ray explained. After pulling the boat out far enough to drain the ballast, back it into the water again with the ballast valve closed and tighten the winch again. Works almost everytime. Sometimes a second round of backing in finishes it off. During this exercise I stay with the winch and crank while my mate backs the trailer into the water and back out. I also replaced the black bow roller with the yellow urethane material.
I do what Ray explained. After pulling the boat out far enough to drain the ballast, back it into the water again with the ballast valve closed and tighten the winch again. Works almost everytime. Sometimes a second round of backing in finishes it off. During this exercise I stay with the winch and crank while my mate backs the trailer into the water and back out. I also replaced the black bow roller with the yellow urethane material.
G
G. Bassett
Double dunk
I do what Ray explained. After pulling the boat out far enough to drain the ballast, back it into the water again with the ballast valve closed and tighten the winch again. Works almost everytime. Sometimes a second round of backing in finishes it off. During this exercise I stay with the winch and crank while my mate backs the trailer into the water and back out. I also replaced the black bow roller with the yellow urethane material.
I do what Ray explained. After pulling the boat out far enough to drain the ballast, back it into the water again with the ballast valve closed and tighten the winch again. Works almost everytime. Sometimes a second round of backing in finishes it off. During this exercise I stay with the winch and crank while my mate backs the trailer into the water and back out. I also replaced the black bow roller with the yellow urethane material.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.