Load on an on mast main halyard clutch?

Jun 11, 2004
1,801
Oday 31 Redondo Beach
Does anybody know of a calculator to determine or estimate the load on a main halyard at any given wind speeds?

I have a 30 foot boat with approximately 180 square foot main. Thinking of screwing or riveting a rope clutch to the mast for the main halyard and just wondering what the load might be.

Thanks

p.s. West Marine has some on sale now
 
Last edited:

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,328
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Richard...
Your boat and what you do is always ok..
That said, consider.
Rope clutches have to failure scenarios.
  1. The clutch mechanism fails and rope slips out or it jams. This means the sail falls or it stays up when you want it down.
  2. Repetitive gripping of the halyard under tension creates a weak spot in the core. The core eventually breaks and then the halyard splits/fails and core jams the clutch/halyard splits entirely - sail falls - halyard wave in the wind at the top of the mast.
On the other hand, such events rarely occur when the halyard is tied to a cleat.

When I sailed a Catamaran in Belize, the main halyard was held in a rope clutch. It has been abused. The core of the dacron line was halfway gone. We cleated the sail off and when returning to the checkin reported the issue to the Charter agent. Suspect the boat went out on the next charter with the same halyard. Someone is in for a surprise. :yikes:
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,328
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Interesting @sail sfbay
I put my sail numbers in, then played with the wind speeds and the tensile strength of Yacht Double Braid line.

At 15 knots the load was about 552lbs. And with a 5 coefficient about 1640.
Well shy of the 3/8 tensile strength of 4400lbs or the 7/16 of 6200lbs.

When you bump that up to 40 knts. And figure I will have double reefed (shortened the "P" value to 60%) the load on the halyard jumps up to 1700 lbs. And with a 5 coefficient about 6004lbs.

The 7/16" halyard will work fine, but I had better shorten the sail to a 3rd reef (50% of the Main sail area) if I am using 3/8" halyard or begin to pray that the halyard will hold..:yikes::pray::pray:
 
Jun 11, 2004
1,801
Oday 31 Redondo Beach
Great. Thanks.
Richard...
Your boat and what you do is always ok..
That said, consider.
Rope clutches have to failure scenarios.
  1. The clutch mechanism fails and rope slips out or it jams. This means the sail falls or it stays up when you want it down.
  2. Repetitive gripping of the halyard under tension creates a weak spot in the core. The core eventually breaks and then the halyard splits/fails and core jams the clutch/halyard splits entirely - sail falls - halyard wave in the wind at the top of the mast.
On the other hand, such events rarely occur when the halyard is tied to a cleat.

When I sailed a Catamaran in Belize, the main halyard was held in a rope clutch. It has been abused. The core of the dacron line was halfway gone. We cleated the sail off and when returning to the checkin reported the issue to the Charter agent. Suspect the boat went out on the next charter with the same halyard. Someone is in for a surprise. :yikes:
All good comments. Thanks. The clutch would primarily be used to temporarily hold the halyard when I want the winch for some other lines such as reefing. 99.5+% of the time the halyard will be on a winch or cleat or both.
 
  • Like
Likes: jssailem
May 6, 2010
472
1984 Oday 39 79 Milwaukee
Our boats have always used a rope clutch for the main halyard - only difference being ours is in the cockpit instead of at the mast. I use Lewmar rope clutches and have never experienced noticeable wear on our halyards. I do replace my running rigging every few years but that's because they get faded and I like them to look pretty :). Lewmar clutches are easier on the lines than some others.
 
  • Like
Likes: jssailem

Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
8,211
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
You can reduce clutch wear on lines by not using the "clutch" feature. I know that sounds ridiculous, but I'm not talking about small tweaks, I'm talking about long pulls with the clutch on that are convenient but totally unnecessary. If possible, you can shorten the halyard a few inches from the sail end each year to move the grip point. Most people don't because they have an eye splice for the halyard shackle there, so using a halyard knot instead of an eye splice will give you that option.
You can also reduce wear and tear on sheets by reversing them and switching sides regularly. Another good reason to use separate sheets instead of one single long one.
 
  • Like
Likes: jssailem
Mar 26, 2011
3,745
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
... When I sailed a Catamaran in Belize, the main halyard was held in a rope clutch. It has been abused. The core of the dacron line was halfway gone. We cleated the sail off and when returning to the checkin reported the issue to the Charter agent. Suspect the boat went out on the next charter with the same halyard. Someone is in for a surprise. :yikes:
This is why you attach the main to the halyard with a knot, retying to move the wear point every year or two, as needed. There is no advantage to splicing dacron in this application, other than looks (the halyard is sized for stretch, not strength).

No problem.

Also, you assume that you can keep the main in tight double reefed, hard on the wind, in 40 knots. I kinna doubt that. You would have the traveler down and you would be feathering a lot. Heeling too, which relieves the load. Not apples to apples.

If you think about it, the mainsheet tension is strong winds is not much higher than it is at the reefing point, and that is mostly what sets the halyard load. If you are reefing at 15 knots, you are probably easing up at 30 knots, even with two reefs in. If you don't, the boat will ease the load for you by heeling.

I don't think the model can be used the way you have. The wind speed is your reefing speed, period.
 
Jun 11, 2004
1,801
Oday 31 Redondo Beach
Does anyone have any comments or advice on attaching the clutch or cam cleat to the mast?

Just drill and tap for screws?
Any problem that there is no nut or washer inside the mast?
 

AaronD

.
Aug 10, 2014
742
Catalina 22 9874 Newberg, OR / Olympia, WA
Does anyone have any comments or advice on attaching the clutch or cam cleat to the mast?

Just drill and tap for screws?
Any problem that there is no nut or washer inside the mast?
Copied from a similar thread a couple weeks ago:

When I was nervous about mounting to a thin boom, I made a little insert of G10 fiberglass, sanded to match the spar's inside radius and tapped for the mounting screws. Description and pictures near the bottom of this post. One possibility to add to your options.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,328
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
the main to the halyard with a knot
I agree with the understanding, On a larger boat, the knot is to secure a sail shackle (in my case), on a small boat, I would use the knot on the sail (tying and untying when raising or putting the sail away in covered storage).

you assume that you can keep the main in tight double reefed, hard on the wind, in 40 knots.
I do not assume anything of the such. Please do not attribute things to me that I did not state. I listed the data to examine the function of the model. It is a model that may have use in considering the size of a halyard in the specific case the main halyard. The model provides a calculated load for the main halyard.
The model uses the P length (height of the main luff) to calculate the load on the halyard. I shortened the P value to 60% of my total P Value and used the 40knot wind speed to see what the models load would report. 60% height of the main corresponds to about double reef for physical sail reference on my boat. The loads reported were for 2 different diameter halyards. No reference to the effect of double reef or mainsail position was considered.

It also shows a coefficient number which appears to be an attempt at a load number above the base load. Considered to be a "safety factor" calculation. No detail as to the formulae used was evident. The model is a take it as such or leave it consideration by me.

the mainsheet tension is strong winds is not much higher than it is at the reefing point
The mainsheet was not even considered in the model. I did not reference the mainsheet in my post.

I don't think the model can be used the way you have. The wind speed is your reefing speed, period.
The wind speed in the model was just that wind speed. The model calculated loads on the main halyard based on the model calculation and assumptions in the formulae. The model formulae was not defined in my post nor was it evident on the website. Perhaps someone interested in the model formula could explore the details and report back.
I found the model an interesting effort by the creator to preform a complex calculation. I made no judgement as to the accuracy. I listed the data inputs and the calculated outputs. While they appeared to be relevant to my experiences with halyards the numbers have not been scientifically examined. I made no warranties other than to list personal observations.

Thank you Drew for your post.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,328
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Just drill and tap for screws?
Any problem that there is no nut or washer inside the mast?
My opinion, if your mast is of aluminum and reasonable thickness, not a thin carbon racing mast, then drill and tapped screws should be fine. I would keep the screw depth to thickness of the mast plus what you are adding to the mast (i.e. the mounted hardware). This limits the screw from sticking out inside the mast where it might catch on something. ON my mast that is what I did with the mast cleats. I note that the pull on the cleat is in shear, which would also be true of a cam cleat or a clutch. Four machine screws or rivets should be able to handle that shear load. I stay away form rivets because they leave a protruding piece of metal in the mast air space that might contact the lines or wires running through the mast.

Be sure to use something like LanoCote or Boeshield T-9 on the screws as you are using dissimilar metals stainless and aluminum to secure your fitting.

If you have thin material or have room and want greater support the idea of a backing plate by @AaronD makes lots of sense.
 
Jun 11, 2004
1,801
Oday 31 Redondo Beach
Four machine screws or rivets should be able to handle that shear load. I stay away form rivets because they leave a protruding piece of metal in the mast air space that might contact the lines or wires running through the mast.

If you have thin material or have room and want greater support the idea of a backing plate by @AaronD makes lots of sense.
Thanks for the comments.

I would be happier with four fasteners but they have only two.

Standard aluminum mast. .125" / 3.2mm thick I believe. No chance for a backing plate.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Likes: jssailem
Mar 26, 2011
3,745
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
I agree with the understanding, On a larger boat, the knot is to secure a sail shackle (in my case), on a small boat, I would use the knot on the sail (tying and untying when raising or putting the sail away in covered storage).


I do not assume anything of the such. Please do not attribute things to me that I did not state. I listed the data to examine the function of the model. It is a model that may have use in considering the size of a halyard in the specific case the main halyard. The model provides a calculated load for the main halyard.
The model uses the P length (height of the main luff) to calculate the load on the halyard. I shortened the P value to 60% of my total P Value and used the 40knot wind speed to see what the models load would report. 60% height of the main corresponds to about double reef for physical sail reference on my boat. The loads reported were for 2 different diameter halyards. No reference to the effect of double reef or mainsail position was considered.

It also shows a coefficient number which appears to be an attempt at a load number above the base load. Considered to be a "safety factor" calculation. No detail as to the formulae used was evident. The model is a take it as such or leave it consideration by me.


The mainsheet was not even considered in the model. I did not reference the mainsheet in my post.


The wind speed in the model was just that wind speed. The model calculated loads on the main halyard based on the model calculation and assumptions in the formulae. The model formulae was not defined in my post nor was it evident on the website. Perhaps someone interested in the model formula could explore the details and report back.
I found the model an interesting effort by the creator to preform a complex calculation. I made no judgement as to the accuracy. I listed the data inputs and the calculated outputs. While they appeared to be relevant to my experiences with halyards the numbers have not been scientifically examined. I made no warranties other than to list personal observations.

Thank you Drew for your post.
Sorry. I thought I was only pointing out things I am reasonably certain the model assumes for you. This is a weakness in using models without an explaination of the basis and assumptions. However, note that the model does NOT give a provision for reefing. What use wouold it be to the rigger or to anyone without this provision? The reason is because it is already in there. You enter the reefing windspeed and you are done.

Mainsheet tension is a little higher when reefed, but typically not that much higher than at the reefing point. The heeling moment is the same, the lever arm/area has been reduced by perhaps half or so, and the traveler is nearly always eased a bit and the main twisted a bit to drive through waves. In my experince, the mainsheet tension, and by proportion the halyard tension, might increase by 50%, not more than triple. I certainly do not sheet 3 times as hard. I could not and the boat would go over. And I have measured this with a load cell on two boats.

The main sheet tension is implied in the model. Obvious mechanics. Without it there would be no relationship between wind speed and halyard tension because the sail would simply flog. The model certainly assumes the mainsheet is hauled tight, the boom centered, and the boat on her feet, into the wind, no feathering.

The safety factor was almost certainly a working load factor for polyester rope, rather than a fudge factor. No additional factor is added beyond that.

It was not an attack an please don't take discussion that way. We'll never learn anything. Just food for thought. I do this sort of engnieering, so I have some experience regarding how such a model is built.
 
  • Like
Likes: jssailem
Jun 11, 2004
1,801
Oday 31 Redondo Beach
I probably should have followed up this query.

Between all the good info received, the thickness of my mast and my lack of tapping skills I decided not to do it.

The up side is now I have a clutch to return to West Marine for credit. After having paid for it almost five months ago it's kinda like getting some free money! :)

ps: Thanks John,
 
Sep 22, 2021
292
Hunter 41AC 0 Portland, OR
Thinking of screwing or riveting a rope clutch to the mast for the main halyard [...]
On my boat, the main halyard ran to a clutch in the cockpit and the topping lift was cleated off at the mast. I wanted to be able to use the topping lift line to ascend the mast and need the winch for that so I mounted a cleat on the starboard side of the mast where I now have the main halyard (in-mast furing) cleated off and the topping lift line runs to the cockpit in its place. While I was at it, I put another cleat on the port side and I have my jib halyard cleated off there. That gives me a spare port side clutch for some future use.

There is a photo of one my mast mounted cleats in post #9 of this thread:
Repurposing a Clutch
 
  • Helpful
Likes: Richard19068
Apr 5, 2009
3,144
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
Richard...
Your boat and what you do is always ok..
That said, consider.
Rope clutches have to failure scenarios.
  1. The clutch mechanism fails and rope slips out or it jams. This means the sail falls or it stays up when you want it down.
  2. Repetitive gripping of the halyard under tension creates a weak spot in the core. The core eventually breaks and then the halyard splits/fails and core jams the clutch/halyard splits entirely - sail falls - halyard wave in the wind at the top of the mast.
On the other hand, such events rarely occur when the halyard is tied to a cleat.

When I sailed a Catamaran in Belize, the main halyard was held in a rope clutch. It has been abused. The core of the dacron line was halfway gone. We cleated the sail off and when returning to the checkin reported the issue to the Charter agent. Suspect the boat went out on the next charter with the same halyard. Someone is in for a surprise. :yikes:
Or, every few years you can cut off the last foot of the halyard and splice in a new eye or tie the end to the clevis with a halyard knot and not continually work the same spot in the line. I always get my halyards at least 10' longer than I need so that I can move the anchor several times. I also swap it end-for-end after several shortenings so that the exposed end is reversed. While I am at it, I wash them to get the salt out of the weave.
 
  • Helpful
Likes: jssailem