I'm considering installation of either a Link 10 or Link 20 in my H376. I have two 4D's for my house bank and a dedicated start battery. My question is, would I install the Link 20 and monitor each of my two house batteries? Or save a few bucks and get the link 10 and monitor the combined 4D's? I'm thinking the Link 20 is the best, but I know some of you are very much more an expert on this than I am. Thanks, Bob F.
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Link 10
Typically you draw down your house batteries whereas you use the start battery to start the engine and then recharge it as you motor. Therefore, I reasoned that I really needed use information about the house batteries, so I installed the Link 10.
Typically you draw down your house batteries whereas you use the start battery to start the engine and then recharge it as you motor. Therefore, I reasoned that I really needed use information about the house batteries, so I installed the Link 10.
I use the Link 20
I use the Link 20 on my H380. However, I traded in my 4D battery and replaced it with 4 golf cart batteries which act as my house batteries. My starter battery is a Deep discharge Group 27. So the Link monitors the golf cart batteries on battery 2 side and the engine battery as the battery 1 side. I would think you would want to have the Link 20 putting both your 4Ds on one side and your starting battery on the other side.
I use the Link 20 on my H380. However, I traded in my 4D battery and replaced it with 4 golf cart batteries which act as my house batteries. My starter battery is a Deep discharge Group 27. So the Link monitors the golf cart batteries on battery 2 side and the engine battery as the battery 1 side. I would think you would want to have the Link 20 putting both your 4Ds on one side and your starting battery on the other side.
I think I agree with Jay, a Link 10...
I have 4 GC batteries arranged in two banks. I put in a Link 20 to monitor the two house banks. However, I always use my house banks in parallel, so that I combine the information that is given. If you use your banks separately, then you definately want the Link 20. One advantage of monitoring both banks even when connected in parallel is that as the batteries age and become weaker, their individual performance (or lack thereof) will be seen on the monitor. Thus you can get a 'heads-up' that the batteries are degrading. I really don't think a monitor on a dedicated starting battery is worth the expense. It remains at near full-charge at all times. I have often thought that I should have gotten a Link 10 so that I can get the total combined battery status without having to do 8 button pushes to switch between the banks and cycle through the data. Either way you go, the Link 10 or 20 is a great instrument for keeping on top of your battery condition. I cannot think of a better system.
I have 4 GC batteries arranged in two banks. I put in a Link 20 to monitor the two house banks. However, I always use my house banks in parallel, so that I combine the information that is given. If you use your banks separately, then you definately want the Link 20. One advantage of monitoring both banks even when connected in parallel is that as the batteries age and become weaker, their individual performance (or lack thereof) will be seen on the monitor. Thus you can get a 'heads-up' that the batteries are degrading. I really don't think a monitor on a dedicated starting battery is worth the expense. It remains at near full-charge at all times. I have often thought that I should have gotten a Link 10 so that I can get the total combined battery status without having to do 8 button pushes to switch between the banks and cycle through the data. Either way you go, the Link 10 or 20 is a great instrument for keeping on top of your battery condition. I cannot think of a better system.
OK guys, great system or not, I recommend that
you save your MONEY! If you are worried about your juice, install a digital volt meter that reads to .99 and that, along with an amp meter will tell you all you need to know. The link systems are doing the same thing in a fancy way. If you have a Yanmar, you don't even need a start battery. Run it off of the house bank and you'll be fine. We have done that since the eighty's and NEVER even had a slow start. If we were to run down the house bank (golf carts) we would just open the compression releases to spin up the engine. It has never happened. Simplify and save your money. Or spend it on something that is useful.
you save your MONEY! If you are worried about your juice, install a digital volt meter that reads to .99 and that, along with an amp meter will tell you all you need to know. The link systems are doing the same thing in a fancy way. If you have a Yanmar, you don't even need a start battery. Run it off of the house bank and you'll be fine. We have done that since the eighty's and NEVER even had a slow start. If we were to run down the house bank (golf carts) we would just open the compression releases to spin up the engine. It has never happened. Simplify and save your money. Or spend it on something that is useful.
Fred, save money??
Thanks for the post. I looked in WM catalog and see a Blue Sea ditigal for about $120, which is about half of the Link 10. My question is, can I hook both of my 4D's to this? Or if I do that will it read 24 volts? Excuse my ignorance, but I'm in the insurance business and I know just enough about this to be dangerous. Bob
Thanks for the post. I looked in WM catalog and see a Blue Sea ditigal for about $120, which is about half of the Link 10. My question is, can I hook both of my 4D's to this? Or if I do that will it read 24 volts? Excuse my ignorance, but I'm in the insurance business and I know just enough about this to be dangerous. Bob
Bob, OK, gotchya
I understand where you are at. Let me say that 12 volt DC IS SIMPLE! Think of it as water in a plumbing system. Pressure is volts. Amps is volume (Gallons). Get yourself a book on the subject and understand it. YOU CAN DO IT! It's an evening read. (better skip the wine) As far as your batteries are concerned, wire them in parallel so as to make one 12volt bank. It's more efficient too. And it's hard to burn down your boat while you do the work. Especially hooking the batteries together. Because they won't be shut off, you can tell instantly if you made a mistake.
Make sure they haven't just been charged. Hydrogen goes boom. (that's the byproduct of charging wet cell batteries) I had a car battery blow up when I removed the charger clips once. I dropped the + clip and it sparked a lot. It's hard to find a garden hose for a shower when you have your eyes closed. And that $120 from WM, outrageous. they're half that on ebay. And there are lots of digital panel meters (DPMs) out there. Blue Seas Systems are top of the line. You can't go wrong. My whole boat is Blue Seas. But I haven't bought their DPMs yet. Too many $$$
I understand where you are at. Let me say that 12 volt DC IS SIMPLE! Think of it as water in a plumbing system. Pressure is volts. Amps is volume (Gallons). Get yourself a book on the subject and understand it. YOU CAN DO IT! It's an evening read. (better skip the wine) As far as your batteries are concerned, wire them in parallel so as to make one 12volt bank. It's more efficient too. And it's hard to burn down your boat while you do the work. Especially hooking the batteries together. Because they won't be shut off, you can tell instantly if you made a mistake.
Make sure they haven't just been charged. Hydrogen goes boom. (that's the byproduct of charging wet cell batteries) I had a car battery blow up when I removed the charger clips once. I dropped the + clip and it sparked a lot. It's hard to find a garden hose for a shower when you have your eyes closed. And that $120 from WM, outrageous. they're half that on ebay. And there are lots of digital panel meters (DPMs) out there. Blue Seas Systems are top of the line. You can't go wrong. My whole boat is Blue Seas. But I haven't bought their DPMs yet. Too many $$$
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