Hello all. I just installed a LINK 20 Battery Monitor. Its terrific. However I do have a question. I have a new H326 and when I turn all the power off I am still seeing a draw of: -00.2 on the Link Monitor. I do have the CO2 detectors still hooked up. Is this what is causing this draw on the battery? Any other suggestions on using the LINK and or setting it up would be helpful. I have 2 wet cell Group 24 batteries currently. Thank you, Ed Fluss s/v Michaya North Cove NYC
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Probably the C02 dectors.
Disconnect them and see. If you have a stereo that stays powered all the time to hold station settings and a clock, it requires a small amount of power. The monitor itself takes a little juice to run. My old CD monitor never goes below -0.08
Disconnect them and see. If you have a stereo that stays powered all the time to hold station settings and a clock, it requires a small amount of power. The monitor itself takes a little juice to run. My old CD monitor never goes below -0.08
Combination.
The Link itself does have a draw. Add to that the things you and Don mentioned. I was surprised to learn recently that a dead battery on a new H356 was caused by the CO detectors. Real problem since it was the starter battery and, thus, the bilge pump was also dead!
The Link itself does have a draw. Add to that the things you and Don mentioned. I was surprised to learn recently that a dead battery on a new H356 was caused by the CO detectors. Real problem since it was the starter battery and, thus, the bilge pump was also dead!
Link draw
Ed Read the instructions that came with your Link. It explains the setup and expected draws depending on how you set it up. For instance, you could leave lighting on on a Link 2000. I know you only have a Link 20, but there are plenty of variables. Stu
Ed Read the instructions that came with your Link. It explains the setup and expected draws depending on how you set it up. For instance, you could leave lighting on on a Link 2000. I know you only have a Link 20, but there are plenty of variables. Stu
Link draw
I have a question that I have posted before. My Link 2000 shows a slight draw on battery #1 when everything else is off. Have a 356 and do have the CO detectors. This draw provides a numerical countdown on the amps used over time, that can get pretty high over a week or two. This occurs even though the battery charger is on float the whole time. The batteries are charged, so I just reset and go, but seems strange that the link can't accomodate the difference. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
I have a question that I have posted before. My Link 2000 shows a slight draw on battery #1 when everything else is off. Have a 356 and do have the CO detectors. This draw provides a numerical countdown on the amps used over time, that can get pretty high over a week or two. This occurs even though the battery charger is on float the whole time. The batteries are charged, so I just reset and go, but seems strange that the link can't accomodate the difference. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
link draw
DMJ; If the charger is in FLOAT, the amp/hour meter should rise in positive numbers that will automatically reset to 0 when the charger is disconnected and a DC draw is put on the system.
DMJ; If the charger is in FLOAT, the amp/hour meter should rise in positive numbers that will automatically reset to 0 when the charger is disconnected and a DC draw is put on the system.
Should
Larry, Should, but does not. Might have to call Link people to find out. The hard part is that my cell does not work at the boat. Makes onsite troubleshooting a pain. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Larry, Should, but does not. Might have to call Link people to find out. The hard part is that my cell does not work at the boat. Makes onsite troubleshooting a pain. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Link Draws & COs
DMJ, you wrote: "This draw provides a numerical countdown on the amps used over time, that can get pretty high over a week or two. This occurs even though the battery charger is on float the whole time. The batteries are charged, so I just reset and go, but seems strange that the link can't accomodate the difference." Doesn't this simply mean that the CO detectors are taking out more than your charging is putting in? "Even though" means ya gotta take a real hard look at what's coming OUT, and NOT assume that what's going IN is OK, too. Good luck, measure twice, cut once! Didn't you buy the "meter" in the first place to tell you what's happening? Why disregard it's message? Stu
DMJ, you wrote: "This draw provides a numerical countdown on the amps used over time, that can get pretty high over a week or two. This occurs even though the battery charger is on float the whole time. The batteries are charged, so I just reset and go, but seems strange that the link can't accomodate the difference." Doesn't this simply mean that the CO detectors are taking out more than your charging is putting in? "Even though" means ya gotta take a real hard look at what's coming OUT, and NOT assume that what's going IN is OK, too. Good luck, measure twice, cut once! Didn't you buy the "meter" in the first place to tell you what's happening? Why disregard it's message? Stu
Zero amps calibration?
I have not used a Link 20, but my battery monitor (BEP Marine 600-DCM2) has a zero amps calibration feature that allows you to set the reading to zero when you know you have no current flowing. Maybe the Link series allow you to do the same??? BTW - when on the charger and fully charged and on float, my two 4D's and Optima starting battery indicate a total current of about 2 amps charging, regardless of any external load (refrigerator, water pump, etc.)
I have not used a Link 20, but my battery monitor (BEP Marine 600-DCM2) has a zero amps calibration feature that allows you to set the reading to zero when you know you have no current flowing. Maybe the Link series allow you to do the same??? BTW - when on the charger and fully charged and on float, my two 4D's and Optima starting battery indicate a total current of about 2 amps charging, regardless of any external load (refrigerator, water pump, etc.)
Link 20
Presume you have the manual? See pages 7, 12, & 42. Online manual & FAQ's at: Xantrex Technology: http://www.xantrex.com/support/docserve.asp?id=76 hthttp://www.xantrex.com/support/readfaq.asp?did=202&p=263
Presume you have the manual? See pages 7, 12, & 42. Online manual & FAQ's at: Xantrex Technology: http://www.xantrex.com/support/docserve.asp?id=76 hthttp://www.xantrex.com/support/readfaq.asp?did=202&p=263
In and Out
Stu, Your response is right on. I was concerned about what was going in for awhile. Less so now. It does not seem that CO detectors would outrun a Freedom Marine 2500 Inverter Charger on float voltage. The battery voltages are all fine, and I know that can be deceiving. Under load, they perform appropriate for fully charged batteries. I really don't think more is coming out than going in. If so, then the battery is actually discharged some and the charger should stay on a higher charge rate than float. If I sail all day, pull the batteries down, it does. Also, if I draw it down, the Balmar alternator with the multi-stage regulator also charges. All of these show up on the link as large amps in, in those situations. I can only conclude that the batteries are in fact charged even though negative amps occur and have accumulated while on float voltage. I'm pretty sure this is something in the wiring of, calibration, or perhaps a flaw in the Link 2000. My link 20 in the other boat works perfectly. As I said, this gets more difficult because cell phone coverage at the dock is essentially non-existent. So working with a tech by phone is pretty laborious. Also, some of the tests that are suggested take 24-48 hours to perform, and that much consecutive time at the boat for non-sailing activities gets pretty precious. I'm down to having my electronics guys come and have a look. Hate to pay out 65 an hour including travel, but it appears that this problem has not been experienced by others on the forum. When charging, after the charger goes to float, battery 1 shows a fluctuating amp draw that moves in a range from +.2 to -.3, but more often on the negative side. Battery 2 shows the same but the fluctuation is more like +.2 to -.2 with just a slight lead on the negative side. Over a period of several weeks, it will run up 50-60 amps used on battery 1 and 6-10 amps on battery 2, this while the charger is on float. If you turn the charger off and then on again, it goes directly to float. I have a Freedom Marine Inverter Charger. The Link FAQ says if the charger goes to float, the batteries are charged. And, as I said, after watching this cycle for some time, they seem to be charged. I just can't figure out how to adjust things to remove the negative accumulation. I have done the Puekert thing, I've tried adjusting other settings according to the manual. Time for the techs I guess. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Stu, Your response is right on. I was concerned about what was going in for awhile. Less so now. It does not seem that CO detectors would outrun a Freedom Marine 2500 Inverter Charger on float voltage. The battery voltages are all fine, and I know that can be deceiving. Under load, they perform appropriate for fully charged batteries. I really don't think more is coming out than going in. If so, then the battery is actually discharged some and the charger should stay on a higher charge rate than float. If I sail all day, pull the batteries down, it does. Also, if I draw it down, the Balmar alternator with the multi-stage regulator also charges. All of these show up on the link as large amps in, in those situations. I can only conclude that the batteries are in fact charged even though negative amps occur and have accumulated while on float voltage. I'm pretty sure this is something in the wiring of, calibration, or perhaps a flaw in the Link 2000. My link 20 in the other boat works perfectly. As I said, this gets more difficult because cell phone coverage at the dock is essentially non-existent. So working with a tech by phone is pretty laborious. Also, some of the tests that are suggested take 24-48 hours to perform, and that much consecutive time at the boat for non-sailing activities gets pretty precious. I'm down to having my electronics guys come and have a look. Hate to pay out 65 an hour including travel, but it appears that this problem has not been experienced by others on the forum. When charging, after the charger goes to float, battery 1 shows a fluctuating amp draw that moves in a range from +.2 to -.3, but more often on the negative side. Battery 2 shows the same but the fluctuation is more like +.2 to -.2 with just a slight lead on the negative side. Over a period of several weeks, it will run up 50-60 amps used on battery 1 and 6-10 amps on battery 2, this while the charger is on float. If you turn the charger off and then on again, it goes directly to float. I have a Freedom Marine Inverter Charger. The Link FAQ says if the charger goes to float, the batteries are charged. And, as I said, after watching this cycle for some time, they seem to be charged. I just can't figure out how to adjust things to remove the negative accumulation. I have done the Puekert thing, I've tried adjusting other settings according to the manual. Time for the techs I guess. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Back Again
Dan Have you tried just disconnecting your charger for a while? Peukert be danged, give the batteries and your zincs a rest. Why are you plugged in all the time? If you want to spend 65 an hour for electronic techies, I'd be glad to do it for less, and I spent this afternoon sailing in your backyard with the IACC boats, so "travel" to you could be fun from my berth in Alameda. Stu
Dan Have you tried just disconnecting your charger for a while? Peukert be danged, give the batteries and your zincs a rest. Why are you plugged in all the time? If you want to spend 65 an hour for electronic techies, I'd be glad to do it for less, and I spent this afternoon sailing in your backyard with the IACC boats, so "travel" to you could be fun from my berth in Alameda. Stu
Found the problem
Thank you all for your help! Well, I did some breaker by breaker isolating. The draw of -.4 amps is the CO2 Detectors. Called dealer and Hunter. For now...the CO2 detectors are off line. The LINK 20 reads 0.00 amp draw!!! and the boat starts right up in the morning without having to switch to BAT2. No need to keep the charger on either. Just bummed I suffered all last summer with this problem. To think my dealer says he spent hours and kept the boat an extra month this spring in the yard searching for the problem. Never found it. Now onto the fuel line that is getting cut in half by the wood around the engine compartment! Glad I found that before it severed! YES THIS IS A NEW BOAT! Thanks so much again to you all for the responses!
Thank you all for your help! Well, I did some breaker by breaker isolating. The draw of -.4 amps is the CO2 Detectors. Called dealer and Hunter. For now...the CO2 detectors are off line. The LINK 20 reads 0.00 amp draw!!! and the boat starts right up in the morning without having to switch to BAT2. No need to keep the charger on either. Just bummed I suffered all last summer with this problem. To think my dealer says he spent hours and kept the boat an extra month this spring in the yard searching for the problem. Never found it. Now onto the fuel line that is getting cut in half by the wood around the engine compartment! Glad I found that before it severed! YES THIS IS A NEW BOAT! Thanks so much again to you all for the responses!
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