Lines into cockpit

[Dave]

My O'Day 31 has all the halyards at the mast now. Has anyone run their lines into the cockpit like newer boats? If so, would you have a list of equipment, how you went about it, etc.

 

[Mike]

Lines aft

Dave:I too am going to run the lines for my main halyard and two reefing lines aft to the cockpit. Looking at the job it looks as though a spring based standing block will be needed at the mast base to make the turn to the deck. Then some cheek blocks to guide the lines aft. The number of cheek blocks will depend on the number of lines going aft both port and starboard. You will need to either move the halyard winch(s) from the mast or buy new ones. Lastly a brake set or cam cleats will be needed to secure the lines aft.In addition, if your boat is equipped with a dodger it would be a good idea to get it cut to allow for the lines to pass under it or the dodger will surely chafe.My slip mate has a Catalina 28 with all of the lines aft. I am going to take a digital photo of his set up and duplicate it where I can. For all thru-deck additions I am going to reinforce the cabin ceiling with a polished, smooth edged stainless plate. The fasteners will go through the deck with the countersunk head inside so no nuts will protrude out of the cabin ceiling.Bon Chance,Mike

 

[Mike Whalen]

check the archives

Dave, I'm in the process of doing just that on my 25. If you'll check the archives and type lines aft you'll see a couple of examples. On mine I have a base plate to go under mast with three holes on each side and three pulley on right side, a three line - turning block on the deck next to the mast then the lines run along the cabin top to a three line clutch on cabin roof near cockpit. The same set up you'll see on most archive projects. Haven't run the lines 'cause I'd have to drop the mast and I'd rather go sailing.

 

[Ed]

Changing lines

You don't necessarily have to step the mast to change running rigging. I've replaced halyards by cutting the halyard bitter end to remove the whipped or melted end, pulling a few inches of the core out, and cutting the core. Then trim the cover back a couple of inches on the new halyard, slipping the new halyard core into the old halyard cover, and stitching the two together with whipping thread. The joint passes over the masthead sheaves without any trouble.

 

[Peter J,. Brennan]

Have considered it

I always thought it would be nice to have all sail controls come back to the cockpit. But it's a big expendityure in money and I wonder about all the added friction in the lines. Getting the main up withy none but the masthead sheave in the way is tough enough. When you add in a turning block at the base of the mast, a cheeck block to give a fair lead to the winch, it gets to be a lot more. It becomes even more so for the reefing lines, which have the cringles in the sail, sheave at the end of the boom, clutch at the gooseneck, then add a turning block and cheeck block and it gets to be a bit much. Instead what I did was install rope clutches on the mast above the mast-mounted winches for the main and jib halyards. Once set, the winches are unloaded and can then be used for the reefing lines. I don't mind going out on deck.