Likes/dislikes of '83-'90 H40

[McZube]

I have a H31. The H40 is our 10-yr-plan. For those who own these boats, what are your likes and dislikes?

Thanks.

 

[Rick Sylvester]

I wrote this

a long time ago (apologies to those who've already read it) but it might be useful for what you're asking.

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If you're referring to the '84-'90 H40 note that my comments refer to our experiences only and focus on the '84-'86 models. The '87-'90 boats are mostly the same but incorporated many minor design changes.


Cons:

Tankage is one issue. Not capacity, but rather having ALL fuel in one tank and ALL water in one tank. Aluminum for the fresh water tank is a questionable choice of material. There are no access ports.

Aft holding tank built into hull grid is poorly executed, small and prone to leaks.

The steel anchors molded into the grid for the chainplate tie-rod system are mild steel and subject to deterioration with any water intrusion.

The joinery is pedestrian at best.

Lightweight Beckson plastic ports ('84-'86.)

Most of the cabinet doors aren't positively latched.

The cockpit lazarettes aren't gasketed and lockable.

The steep and tall companionway can be treacherous in a wild seaway although I've only managed to fall down ours while anchored in calm waters. Go figure.

Only one anchor roller.

Stock 40's are equipped with CNG for the stove. You won't find it outside the US. Hell, you won't find it easily in the US. You'll need to convert to LPG.

Stock 40's have a woefully inadequate house DC bank and charging/monitoring system. DC wiring is untinned.

Two heads on a 40' cruising boat is ridiculous. The H40's forward head is poorly plumbed and so small as to be nearly unusable.

Most 40's are relatively inexpensive (that's why we own one.) However, that also means that most on the market have been bought and abused by less than knowledgeable people who bought with little money, did no meaningful maintenance because they couldn't afford it, or worse, performed those dreaded "owner modifications." There are many beat-to-**** H40's out there that aren't worth owning. Survey REALLY carefully.


Pros:

It's a great looking boat.

It sails beautifully. It's fast.

It's inexpensive.

It's got a sumptuous salon and aft stateroom for a 40' boat.


There are MANY more issues, both good and bad, but these are the biggies as far as I'm concerned. Most are repairable at which point you have to answer the "is it worth it to me?" question. For us it definitely has been.


As with all boats, it's all about trade-offs, but after may years and over 10,000 miles we're happy to have ours.

 

[waternwaves]

OTher comments from a long time ago...

the H40 are as difficult as any boat which is constructed with a liner, I have had several, and the best solution for odors is no liner to trap moisture, On my H40, The MNFR/PO ?? used a cellular foam product to seal the gap spaces that feeds the molds, I hve seen this foam on other boats and am not sure just how much of it may have been factory installed, however it will hold stink and bacteria like nothing I have seen, it is up in the forward head sink cabinet, under the water tank etc......

so many sources...... so many smells to chase.

The original aft head tank leakage (tank and floor covering are walked on and flexed, ultimately reducing the integrity of the aft tank ) is miserable to repair, and it is a small tank anyway, and the obvious locations to mount a replacement tank are in the aft cabin or under the nav station. I think on our next interior remodel, we will modify the nav station to a shorter port settee, along with a waste tank and the combo washer dryer over the existing old tank.

In any case, you will want to minimize water sources draining down to the engine bilge, new hoses, exhause elbow, and any small hose clamp leaks, (water tracks and rust lines are easily found), secondly you will want to slope the floor of the liner drain sump and install a smaller pump in the lowest part of that drain to minimize that pool of water, (interior condesation collects here), Icebox drain should be sealed from the inside., that bacteria experiment was never a good idea to drain to the bilge, . my vberth in h40 had a leak too, locker cover hinge screws were loose, but the big source of water was the small hole the anchor locker latch slid into. Tough to fill that one. Get behind the receiver latch for the anchor locker and make sure the crossbolt goes into something solid, and not just the deck, you would be suprised how much water comes in through that hole,

The original water tank if present is a candidate for replacement, when mine was over 2/3 full there was an incessessant small leak into the inner liner, Fixed racy portlights...leaked on every 85 I saw, lets see, mast step should be frequently checked for water ingress, Lets see, the old aluminum water tank plumbing was a source of failed pumps (most pumps do not like to pass oxides of aluminum and calcium through them), and the fittings to the water heater might need replacement. (just saying), your original sink fittings are due for replacement, the poly tubing connections to the underside of the faucets should be dry..........hmmmm

Did I miss anything. Every one of these wet places collects bacteria and has a smell. Oh and some of the portlight sealants are capable of supporting mold growth....

Now go back to the aft cabin, open the transom storage and panel and feel inside, is it dry all the way down and across the bottom, if not, get your friend the bleach out and clean and look for the source of any odors other than condensation..... Lazarette wiring spaces, heater duct spaces etc all let water and stink in....

Then after you get all those culprits taken care of, Peggy can help you bring those heads up to current standards by replacing tanks, permeated hoses, and vents too small

On the upside.......
She sails great, looks wonderful, has lots of room, and low cost. But she is a project.

As far as the transmission lever, disconnect at the transmission first, (relatively quick) to determine if it is the transmission or the linkage. mine was a linkage issue, transmission shifted smoothly when that was taken care of.

The h40 does not have a huge amount of bouyancy up forward. There is a 700 llbs of water in that front water tank, maybe another 120 in a full waste tank, throw qty=2, 30 to 60 lbs of anchors, 50 lbs of windlass/mounts and a lot of chain becomes a definite nose heavy condition.

Don't use open cell foam for anything, sealant, insulation, cushions. Install a light in the engine compartment, nicro fans,

Find all those sources of water leaks, Lemon oil the teak profusely, dont swear too much at the nav station with no seat back, you will never it use it except as a counter, brace the table wings securely, the factory hinges and screws on the table supports are inadequate, Forget about converting the salon into a real bed, it is not nice. Install vented mesh (hypervent et. al.) under the existing mattresses, add thickness or memoryfoam to the mattresses. Get rid of those easily damaged, sun worn stickers on the side of the boat.

GEt a real enclosure for the cockpit, sunbrella is your friend,

4 T105 batteries is about right for this boat. Dont keep weight forward.

Enjoy.