Anyone done any lifeline stanchion replacement? They're so pricey that I'd just as soon not replace all of them, some of them look in perfectly good shape. I have two bent ones and one that was apparently broken previously and welded to strengthen it. So that's three. Then I'm also going to add two gate-braced stanchions and brace a couple of the existing ones for gates on both sides near the shrouds. I'm looking for a source for stanchions that would look like the existing ones, preferably with the same footprint so I don't have to drill new holes. Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Morrie
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Well...
There's a company here in MI that makes them but I'll be darned if I can remember the name. Stand by and I'm sure that another HOWer with a better memory will check in with the info.
There's a company here in MI that makes them but I'll be darned if I can remember the name. Stand by and I'm sure that another HOWer with a better memory will check in with the info.
Stanchion fixes
We found that it was very cost effective to have the stanchions repaired. One was broken and one was badly bent. A local boatyard cut the bent one, put inserts in both and then welded and polished them. They look like new and are probably stronger than new. We had to pay for 1.5 hours labor for the whole job so it came to about $130. That is cheaper than new and saves making new holes and finding something that will fit to the toerails. I then bought off the shelf supports to add bracing.
We found that it was very cost effective to have the stanchions repaired. One was broken and one was badly bent. A local boatyard cut the bent one, put inserts in both and then welded and polished them. They look like new and are probably stronger than new. We had to pay for 1.5 hours labor for the whole job so it came to about $130. That is cheaper than new and saves making new holes and finding something that will fit to the toerails. I then bought off the shelf supports to add bracing.
TIQ for stanchions.
Steve is trying to remember "Tops-In-Quality" Morrie, see Related Link. I broke one at the base this winter when I placed a ladder against it. I will simply have it welded at a local shop that does stainless. The local shop could easily straighten one and add bracing. You could get new ones or a few new ones with mods from TIQ by sending them one. You will definitely want them to match the base. Or send them several and they can use the existing bases.
Steve is trying to remember "Tops-In-Quality" Morrie, see Related Link. I broke one at the base this winter when I placed a ladder against it. I will simply have it welded at a local shop that does stainless. The local shop could easily straighten one and add bracing. You could get new ones or a few new ones with mods from TIQ by sending them one. You will definitely want them to match the base. Or send them several and they can use the existing bases.
Hunter has them
Last year I priced replacement stanchions for my 1983 H34. Hunter had a match, with competitve price. Good to know HOW chandlery has them too.
Last year I priced replacement stanchions for my 1983 H34. Hunter had a match, with competitve price. Good to know HOW chandlery has them too.
Morrie, let us know.
If you can find a match for the H37C stanchion let us know. I have not seen one like it on anything but the Cherubinis. The base plate is bent to overlap the toerail. Two bolts go through the toerail and two through the hull/deck joint. It has that heavy wire support to the post. The tops are solid and the two lifeline holes are ferruled.
If you can find a match for the H37C stanchion let us know. I have not seen one like it on anything but the Cherubinis. The base plate is bent to overlap the toerail. Two bolts go through the toerail and two through the hull/deck joint. It has that heavy wire support to the post. The tops are solid and the two lifeline holes are ferruled.
hard finding a match
Well, I checked out the TIQ web site that Ed/Steve suggested and was ready to pull one of the remaining non-bent ones off this weekend to send to them. But as I checked them out more closely it appears they all may have been replaced at some point. They should have a base that's bent to accommodate the toe rail and mine are all flat. This means that only half of the base is on top of the toe rail and the other half just hangs over the deck. When they were installed the bedding was put on real thick under that section to make up the difference. (This may be one reason they all seem to leak to some degree
) The chandlery here has a picture of a base with a step-down made for toe rail mount but it the picture shows it made to bolt through the side of the toe rail instead of the top and it doesn't really look like the same trapezoid shape as my bolt pattern. I think I'll take Bill's suggestion and contact Hunter. Well, as with so many of my boat projects recently, this is going to end up a bit more extensive than I originally thought. For one, I think I'm going to go ahead and replace all of the existing stanchions, then add two extras with some gate braces thrown in. Meanwhile, any of you who think you may have the originals, I sure would appreciate it if you could post a picture. I may have to have some custom made. I'll keep you posted.
Well, I checked out the TIQ web site that Ed/Steve suggested and was ready to pull one of the remaining non-bent ones off this weekend to send to them. But as I checked them out more closely it appears they all may have been replaced at some point. They should have a base that's bent to accommodate the toe rail and mine are all flat. This means that only half of the base is on top of the toe rail and the other half just hangs over the deck. When they were installed the bedding was put on real thick under that section to make up the difference. (This may be one reason they all seem to leak to some degree
) The chandlery here has a picture of a base with a step-down made for toe rail mount but it the picture shows it made to bolt through the side of the toe rail instead of the top and it doesn't really look like the same trapezoid shape as my bolt pattern. I think I'll take Bill's suggestion and contact Hunter. Well, as with so many of my boat projects recently, this is going to end up a bit more extensive than I originally thought. For one, I think I'm going to go ahead and replace all of the existing stanchions, then add two extras with some gate braces thrown in. Meanwhile, any of you who think you may have the originals, I sure would appreciate it if you could post a picture. I may have to have some custom made. I'll keep you posted.think about taller ones
If you are going to replace them, you might think about going to 3' tall stanchions. I built my own recently and made them 3' high. I got tired of the knee high trippers. there is quite a bit more feeling of safety with the taller ones.
If you are going to replace them, you might think about going to 3' tall stanchions. I built my own recently and made them 3' high. I got tired of the knee high trippers. there is quite a bit more feeling of safety with the taller ones.
Gene - ?
Gene, I've been thinking about going taller as long as it looks like I may have to have them custom made anyway. Did you modify the bow and stern pulpit to take the higher lifelines or did you somehow angle the lifelines down on the ends? Did you end up with 3 lifelines or 2 ? Got any pictures?? Thanks, Morrie
Gene, I've been thinking about going taller as long as it looks like I may have to have them custom made anyway. Did you modify the bow and stern pulpit to take the higher lifelines or did you somehow angle the lifelines down on the ends? Did you end up with 3 lifelines or 2 ? Got any pictures?? Thanks, Morrie
pictures of my home made ones
I have a new bow pulput, but it is the same as the original as far as the lifeline's attachment. I just angled down the top one. On the stern, I have an arch and just made a place to attach the top line a foot higher. There are 3 lines. YOu could just angle the line down in the back as I did in the front. I made new bases that extend down onto the deck (down where the water runs) to make a stronger, wider attachemnt, as the original ones were already doing damage from the narrow attachment method. I made each base out of a sawed up piece of 3/16" 316 plate. I cut 4 pieces, each to fit thetoerail, and turn of the deck, welded them together, ground the angles down and polished them. Then with 316 about 3'16" in dia, I made the braces. Welding, polishing, and the rest probably took a week's work total. There are 3 lines, each 1' a part. Something you might consider even if you don't make them higher is to string a line to the outer shroud when you go offshore. Get one of those cleats that clamp to a shroud, put it a foot or two above the lifelines, then string a line from the rear pulput to the cleat on the shroud, then on to the bow pulput. You could even use two, going even higher with the second one. This will give you some extra safety above the real lifelines. I plan to do this next time I go offshore, even with my 3' lifelines. With these added lines and the arch (cage?) in the back, going overboard will be difficult even if you wanted to. There is a link below to some pictures. I have yet to make my angled braces at the gate and worry that someone will climb aboard using the lifeline stancion as a climbing aid and bend it outward. If the gate is closed this is not a concern. http://users2.ev1.net/~rainbowchaser/ll/lifeline.html Feel free to ask more questions.
I have a new bow pulput, but it is the same as the original as far as the lifeline's attachment. I just angled down the top one. On the stern, I have an arch and just made a place to attach the top line a foot higher. There are 3 lines. YOu could just angle the line down in the back as I did in the front. I made new bases that extend down onto the deck (down where the water runs) to make a stronger, wider attachemnt, as the original ones were already doing damage from the narrow attachment method. I made each base out of a sawed up piece of 3/16" 316 plate. I cut 4 pieces, each to fit thetoerail, and turn of the deck, welded them together, ground the angles down and polished them. Then with 316 about 3'16" in dia, I made the braces. Welding, polishing, and the rest probably took a week's work total. There are 3 lines, each 1' a part. Something you might consider even if you don't make them higher is to string a line to the outer shroud when you go offshore. Get one of those cleats that clamp to a shroud, put it a foot or two above the lifelines, then string a line from the rear pulput to the cleat on the shroud, then on to the bow pulput. You could even use two, going even higher with the second one. This will give you some extra safety above the real lifelines. I plan to do this next time I go offshore, even with my 3' lifelines. With these added lines and the arch (cage?) in the back, going overboard will be difficult even if you wanted to. There is a link below to some pictures. I have yet to make my angled braces at the gate and worry that someone will climb aboard using the lifeline stancion as a climbing aid and bend it outward. If the gate is closed this is not a concern. http://users2.ev1.net/~rainbowchaser/ll/lifeline.html Feel free to ask more questions.
Thanks
Thanks to all for the great suggestions and links. Thanks for the details & the pics Gene. Morrie
Thanks to all for the great suggestions and links. Thanks for the details & the pics Gene. Morrie
Morrie, remember that. . .
Gene is self-sufficient and can make almost anything it seems. It will be very expensive to duplicate his stanchions and lifelines. I am not one who depends upon the lifelines for safety so this is not an important change for me. Even at three feet they are still too fragile, maybe even more so with the additional leverage. Using jacklines and a harness is much safer than depending upon lifelines to keep you in the boat. And after reading one of your posts I think I was wrong about the shape of the base. I will check this afternoon but I'll bet mine are like yours. The base is flat and there is a nylon spacer under the inside edge. So you probably do have the originals. My recall has always been poor but after 60 went all to . . .
Gene is self-sufficient and can make almost anything it seems. It will be very expensive to duplicate his stanchions and lifelines. I am not one who depends upon the lifelines for safety so this is not an important change for me. Even at three feet they are still too fragile, maybe even more so with the additional leverage. Using jacklines and a harness is much safer than depending upon lifelines to keep you in the boat. And after reading one of your posts I think I was wrong about the shape of the base. I will check this afternoon but I'll bet mine are like yours. The base is flat and there is a nylon spacer under the inside edge. So you probably do have the originals. My recall has always been poor but after 60 went all to . . .
Ah . . . a spacer!
A spacer might be what would work and not cost an arm and a leg to have fabricated. I don't think I have any spacers left, just a lot of bedding goop speared under that overhanging edge. But a spacer would definitely work. I'm with you Ed, on harnesses and jack-lines when off shore. I like Gene's suggestion though, about temporary lines tied to the shrouds up higher than the lifelines, just while on passage. Thanks again all, Morrie
A spacer might be what would work and not cost an arm and a leg to have fabricated. I don't think I have any spacers left, just a lot of bedding goop speared under that overhanging edge. But a spacer would definitely work. I'm with you Ed, on harnesses and jack-lines when off shore. I like Gene's suggestion though, about temporary lines tied to the shrouds up higher than the lifelines, just while on passage. Thanks again all, Morrie
I'm overly cautious!
Ed, don't get me wrong, I use lifelines, jack lines, a harness AND the taller lifelines. I have built in padeyes all over the cockpit, and I recommend them for all boats. Hocking to lifelines, the pedistal and all is dangerous,. Gene
Ed, don't get me wrong, I use lifelines, jack lines, a harness AND the taller lifelines. I have built in padeyes all over the cockpit, and I recommend them for all boats. Hocking to lifelines, the pedistal and all is dangerous,. Gene
Stanchion braces
Gene mentioned angled stanchion braces at the gates, which I want to install. Anyone know of an aftermarket product one can buy, or do I have to get out the TIG welder?
Gene mentioned angled stanchion braces at the gates, which I want to install. Anyone know of an aftermarket product one can buy, or do I have to get out the TIG welder?
Stanchions(and seacocks).
Yesterday the First Mate and I removed a broken stanchion. This morning I had it welded(picture). And like I thought the base is(was) flat. Working on that stanchion this morning reminded me why I do not trust lifelines. The newly welded stanchion is at least twice as strong as the original. There was very little weld at the base to clean up. Morrie, any decent weld shop could add braces. Just make a base plate with one hole for a toerail bolt. Gene, I never doubted for a minute that you would take other precautions. How long have I been following your exploits? At least six years now. And your stanchions are at least twice as strong due to the plate design. But I lost track of the Missouri house project. I threw in the seacock because someone is always asking about them. It happened to be lying on the table. It is plumbed so that I can switch between engine and air-conditioning. The new thru-hull goes in the boat this week. Lovin' this retirement!
Yesterday the First Mate and I removed a broken stanchion. This morning I had it welded(picture). And like I thought the base is(was) flat. Working on that stanchion this morning reminded me why I do not trust lifelines. The newly welded stanchion is at least twice as strong as the original. There was very little weld at the base to clean up. Morrie, any decent weld shop could add braces. Just make a base plate with one hole for a toerail bolt. Gene, I never doubted for a minute that you would take other precautions. How long have I been following your exploits? At least six years now. And your stanchions are at least twice as strong due to the plate design. But I lost track of the Missouri house project. I threw in the seacock because someone is always asking about them. It happened to be lying on the table. It is plumbed so that I can switch between engine and air-conditioning. The new thru-hull goes in the boat this week. Lovin' this retirement!
Attachments
Drawings of original Hunter stanchions
I recieved a reply to my email to Hunter customer service. They told me the original 37c stanchions were built by a company called High-Seas that is no longer in existance. But . . . the Hi-Seas' drawing ended up with Tops In Quality. I talked to Greg at TIQ this morning and he was able to pull out the drawings and give me a price on replacements. The price is about the same as any other place I looked for generic stanchions, but at least this way I know the bolt pattern will match my existing holes. Greg also told me the drawings show the post leaning in 5 degrees. I thought they looked like they leaned in a little but it's hard to tell when some of them are bent and some aren't.
I recieved a reply to my email to Hunter customer service. They told me the original 37c stanchions were built by a company called High-Seas that is no longer in existance. But . . . the Hi-Seas' drawing ended up with Tops In Quality. I talked to Greg at TIQ this morning and he was able to pull out the drawings and give me a price on replacements. The price is about the same as any other place I looked for generic stanchions, but at least this way I know the bolt pattern will match my existing holes. Greg also told me the drawings show the post leaning in 5 degrees. I thought they looked like they leaned in a little but it's hard to tell when some of them are bent and some aren't.
Source for braces
Tops in Quality - TIQ - carries standard braces which bolt right in. The slip-on attachment to the stanchion includes a set screw.
Tops in Quality - TIQ - carries standard braces which bolt right in. The slip-on attachment to the stanchion includes a set screw.
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