I CAN'T FIGURE OUT HOW TO KEEP THE PELICAN HOOKS (THOSE BUCKLES AT THE END OF THE LIFELINES?) FROM SLOWLY UNSCREWING AND FALLING OFF THEN GETTING KICKED OVERBOARD - AT @$25 A CLIP! IS THERE SOME SORT OF A LOCKING MECHANISM AVAILABLE TO KEEP THEM FROM UNSCREWING?
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Easy fix.
Paul: This should be a simple fix. First, there should be a nut on the stud. If there is a nut then you should either use finger nail polish or lock-tite on the threads. If there is not a nut then you should add one and then use the polish or lock-tite. PS: If you decide to use lock-tite, get the one for your application. There are several different types.
Paul: This should be a simple fix. First, there should be a nut on the stud. If there is a nut then you should either use finger nail polish or lock-tite on the threads. If there is not a nut then you should add one and then use the polish or lock-tite. PS: If you decide to use lock-tite, get the one for your application. There are several different types.
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Tom
Locking nut
There should be a locking nut that you can tighten againts the pelican hook to keep it from unscrewing. Fair winds... Tom
There should be a locking nut that you can tighten againts the pelican hook to keep it from unscrewing. Fair winds... Tom
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Harvey Small
Use a wrench or two!
Once you have adjusted the pelican hook for the correct amount of lifeline tension, hold it steady and tighten the nut against the base of the hook. You may want to pad the hook while you hold it with a wrench or vise grips. A little lock-tite on the threads won't hurt, just make sure you use the one that can be remove with hand tools. Heating stainless steel fittings bridk red with a propane torch probably doesn't do them much good!
Once you have adjusted the pelican hook for the correct amount of lifeline tension, hold it steady and tighten the nut against the base of the hook. You may want to pad the hook while you hold it with a wrench or vise grips. A little lock-tite on the threads won't hurt, just make sure you use the one that can be remove with hand tools. Heating stainless steel fittings bridk red with a propane torch probably doesn't do them much good!
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paul schroeder
Dion, the problem is
that the stud does not go all the way through the sheaf of the pelican hook. In other words, the end where I would apply the locktite is fully enclosed inside the sheaf - so there is no end protruding to screw on the lock nut or apply the fingernail polish. I have considered lightly crimping the sheaf to make unscrewing of the pelican hook more difficult - but that is the best i can think of. I am terrible at describing the parts of the hook but if you have a West catalogue you can look at the picture and see the type they sell - there is no way the stud can protrude. Thanks much for your reply, anyway. Any additional thoughts?
that the stud does not go all the way through the sheaf of the pelican hook. In other words, the end where I would apply the locktite is fully enclosed inside the sheaf - so there is no end protruding to screw on the lock nut or apply the fingernail polish. I have considered lightly crimping the sheaf to make unscrewing of the pelican hook more difficult - but that is the best i can think of. I am terrible at describing the parts of the hook but if you have a West catalogue you can look at the picture and see the type they sell - there is no way the stud can protrude. Thanks much for your reply, anyway. Any additional thoughts?
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Henry Scurlock
nut first
Paul, put the locking nut on the stud first, then the pelican hook. Adjust tension, tighten the nut against the hook and add locktite. Seems sort of backwards until you see it in action.
Paul, put the locking nut on the stud first, then the pelican hook. Adjust tension, tighten the nut against the hook and add locktite. Seems sort of backwards until you see it in action.
Paul, look at this.
Paul: Look at this site. They make excellent Pelican hooks and this photo will help explain the safety nut. Hope this helps. I'm not suggesting that you purchase these pelican hooks, I just wanted you to see the safety nut. Two of their hooks are the open type body and two are closed. By the way, if you use lock-tite, you can apply it to the threads first and then screw on the hook. I really do not think you will need it if you use the safety nuts. http://www.csjohnson.com/marcat/mar4.htm
Paul: Look at this site. They make excellent Pelican hooks and this photo will help explain the safety nut. Hope this helps. I'm not suggesting that you purchase these pelican hooks, I just wanted you to see the safety nut. Two of their hooks are the open type body and two are closed. By the way, if you use lock-tite, you can apply it to the threads first and then screw on the hook. I really do not think you will need it if you use the safety nuts. http://www.csjohnson.com/marcat/mar4.htm
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paul schroeder
steve- thanks. i'll re-examine my hooks when i get
to the boat and try the locktie on the screw. Thanks for the johnson site referral, too
to the boat and try the locktie on the screw. Thanks for the johnson site referral, too
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Ward Niffenegger
LocTite on the screw
Paul, Using loctite on the Pelican Hook screw will keep it from turning. CAUTION... As mentioned before,be very careful which grade of loctite you get. There are no less than 20 grades that range from easily removed to nearly permanent. Just make sure the one you use can be removed if you need to. The grade you want is very similar to a lock nut in holding power. Get a small bottle cause you only need two drops on the thread. Ward
Paul, Using loctite on the Pelican Hook screw will keep it from turning. CAUTION... As mentioned before,be very careful which grade of loctite you get. There are no less than 20 grades that range from easily removed to nearly permanent. Just make sure the one you use can be removed if you need to. The grade you want is very similar to a lock nut in holding power. Get a small bottle cause you only need two drops on the thread. Ward
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