Life Line Replacement

Steve Dion · Nov 22, 2009

Mike: We priced out new double life lines from Ballenger in Ca. a couple of years ago. They quoted us about $350-400 including new J&J overcenter pelican hooks. I am sure that this price is higher now.

You may want to contact Seco South or one of the suppliers on the east coast and see what they have to offer.

Stu Jackson · Nov 22, 2009

Because

...why I did not see one boat with non coated life lines at the marina today???

No one's gotten around to replacing theirs yet, they're all waiting to see what you're gonna do!

Ed D · Nov 22, 2009

Life Lines

I replaced my l;ifelines on a32 ft Hunter Vision last summer from Rigging Only who are located in Mass. I went with the traditional white coated 3/16 thick My tjhinking is thatif I were to go bare stainless wire I would want to increase to 1/4" otherwise the visual aspect would be that the lines were too small if I went with 3/16. The coated lifelines on my boat were 20 years old and were more stretched out than corroded
The total cost was around $550.00 this included all new turnbuckles , gate line and fittings and swaging cost. I recommed these people

Gary Kunkel · Nov 22, 2009

We've read the same articles you did. It makes sense to avoid the coated wire for lifelines for all the reasons everyone has said (easier to inspect, etc. etc.) ..... THEN we replaced our lifelines and used coated wire because: they look better and everyone else has coated wire. Not at all sorry and the new lines look GREAT.

Stan Galper · Nov 23, 2009

It's not that easy

I thought that I'd replace my coated lifelines with non-coated. Because all of the fittings (pelican hooks, etc.) are already sized to be swaged on the uncoated ends of the coated wire, I would have needed to keep the actual wire size the same as before. Without the coating, it looks pretty small. I didn't want that small wire rattling around in the holes in the stanchions, but if I used larger wire then the end fittings for that size of wire wouldn't fit inside the holes in the gate stanchions. It seemed more trouble and expense than it was worth so I just ended up just replacing my coated wire with new coated wire.

Stan

Mike G. said:
I removed my rust stained - coated life lines today.

First, I have read here or on other sites that non coated lines are better.
I believe that Don Casey has an article in the most recent issue of Good Old Boat that recommends non coated lines as well. I understand the reasoning but don't understand why I did not see one boat with non coated life lines at the marina today???

Second, what is a very rough cost of replacement for a 32 foot boat.

Thanks,

Mike

sailingdog · Nov 23, 2009

Suncor also sells lifeline replacement kits that will do up to about a 40' boat. However, I'd second going with Rigging Only, as they're my local rigging shop and are very good people. Aside from uncoated stainless steel, you could also go with a synthetic, like Amsteel.

Barnacle Bill · Nov 23, 2009

Many performance boats, like J/Boats (for one) use bare wires, but there is nothing wrong with vinyl coated lifeline wire. It will take quite a few years, but the vinyl will start looking bad when it gets old. Of course that is not a problem with bare wire.

LuzSD · Nov 23, 2009

We replaced our sagging, coated lifelines within 4 months of purchasing our 88 Catalina 30, 3 years ago. We did some research and found that getting a thicker 3/16 stainless wire would give us the strength that we wanted and thought we would like the look. We replaced the swivel gates and hooks and did it though West Marine's rigging shop at full price (just missed a sale) for about $600. It was the best thing we did considering all that we have done to our boat. It looks fantastic and I often look around and wonder why more people seem to stick to the coated wire. I like the way it feels and the way it disappears visually. Seriously, this is one of those purchases that you pat yourself on the back after spending the money.

sailingdog · Nov 23, 2009

Actually, there is a problem with vinyl coated wire. The vinyl coating promotes crevice corrosion and makes it impossible to inspect the wire for corrosion damage. This means the wire is far more likely to fail with little warning.

Barnacle Bill said:
Many performance boats, like J/Boats (for one) use bare wires, but there is nothing wrong with vinyl coated lifeline wire. It will take quite a few years, but the vinyl will start looking bad when it gets old. Of course that is not a problem with bare wire.

NotCook · Nov 23, 2009

If you get a survey, they will advise replacing the coated lifelines with uncoated stainless wire. As Sailingdog mentioned above, it is because you cannot see if is corroding, and promotes corrosion. And, if you do get a survey, and they advise to replace the lifelines, and you don't, if you have an incident, your insurance may not cover you, or may reduce your coverage. Usually insurance will request a copy of the survey, and will ask for your plan to comply with the survey recommendations.

I wondered the same thing Mike, having NEVER seen another boat in the last 6 years without coated lifelines. I have yet to see one since.

We replaced about 60 feet, 2 rows, on both sides, last season, at a cost of about $1800, along with all gate fasteners and turnbuckles.

jimmcgee · Nov 23, 2009

Having seen Casey's recommendation online and knowing that I wanted to replace my lifelines this winter I specifically looked for this at the boat show and noticed quite a few boats with uncoated lines. As Luz said the wire tends to disapplear visually and I think you're better off from a safety standpoint. I'm not sure I agree with Casey that pelican hook gates are a significant nighttime hazzard though, and I'll be re-installing my aft gates and adding front gates for bow-in docking.

The best for me was picking up the wire at 75% off from West at a store closing sale! I split the difference in size between the core size and the coated OD. Still need to order all the fittings, which are not exactly cheap.

Jim

Ed Schenck · Nov 24, 2009

Why not synthetic?

I have been following this thread with interest. And wondering why there was only one passing mention of "synthetic" by 'Dog. My first choice for replacing twenty year old lifelines would be uncoated wire. But is it true that 1/4" studs will not fit through the stanchions? If I am going to spend the money for all new terminals to accomodate 1/4" wire then why not synthetic? ( http://www.greatboatgear.com/index....ar/lifelines?gclid=CMaP9cbeo54CFQk75QodVR5clw )

Am I correct in assuming with spliced ends that synthetic can never be pulled out of the stanchions? Or is there some magic connector? And with the rope lifelines I can use my old terminals, right? Or are we of the collective opinion that if the lifelines need replaced so does the hardware?

jimmcgee · Nov 24, 2009

Ed,
Don Casey mentioned synthetic line in his recent article in Good Old Boat. His conclusion was that it would cost about the same, or even a little more than uncoated wire and would last five years vs. 15 to 20 years for wire because of UV breakdown.

He also had a concern that the line would give little indication before failure while it's obvious when you have a problem with wire.

Seemed to make sense...

Jim

Ed Schenck · Nov 24, 2009

Then there is the respected rigger Brion Toss. He says he will never use wire again.

Are you sure about the UV problem, five years?! What if I rub on some SPF50 from time to time?

Stu Jackson · Nov 24, 2009

Strength doesn't equal stretch

from a friend's report on his cruise from Vancouver, BC to Mexico:

- lifelines - Amsteel may be extremely strong, but it elongates. We have to retension often. More chafe than I would like. I think bare stainless might be a better choice.

Paul Cossman · Nov 24, 2009

Do uncoated lifelines chafe hands?

I will be replacing my lifelines (for the second time in 20 years) within the next year, and like the safety component of uncoated. My question to you folks who have gone with uncoated is: Do you notice any chafe issues? I notice that when I handle raw stainless, like on a shroud, and my hand slips along it when I lose balance, sometimes it chafes uncomfortably. Is that the case with the uncoated lifelines? Or do you notice no change in your ability to grab lifelines and otherwise use them?

Ed Schenck · Nov 24, 2009

Got a response from RiggingOnly that a 1/4" stud needs stanchion holes slightly larger than 3/8". Since the boat is in Florida and I am in Ohio no way to verify. With all the hassles it is easy to see why people stay with coated lifelines.

tommays · Nov 24, 2009

AND yet MANY brand new boats are being built with coated ?

How could they ever get insurance with such dangerous stuff