Life Line diameter?

centerline · Jul 6, 2015

Chiriqui said:
I want a vinyl coated wire.

the vinyl coated wire is no longer recommended for lifelines on a boat due to the problem that can be associated with it as it ages...

personally I dont like the look of the vinyl coating for the lifelines on a boat and its just another thing to detail when washing to boat...

and its expensive....

but 1/8" would be about right, but if you like the look of a larger diameter, go with the 3/16"...

Crazy Dave Condon · Jul 6, 2015

call Jean at Seco South in the Tampa area whose company actually made them if you want to go that route for the older style H 26.

centerline · Jul 6, 2015

Chiriqui said:
I'm fine with eliminating the vinyl coating. I have old fittings like the Pelican clip.
Is this going to work?
I'm advised by shop.hunter about a crimping tool "ugh" $6x that I have to have. I get the feeling I need something that inserts into the Pelican and other attachment at the other end of the cable. Is this correct?
So 1/8" is the life line diameter with in the vinyl, yes?

1/8" is the size of the wire... the coating makes it a larger diameter, but the coating needs to be stripped off at the ends where the fittings go, as the fittings are made to fit only the wire diameter itself, NOT the OD of the vinyl coated wire...

depending on the type of fittings you get/have, you may need a crimping tool.
swage fittings need to be crimped, but the swageless fittings just need wrenches to install and they do have a piece inside that acts as a lock to tighten the strands against .
you need some way to make a clean cut on the cable no matter which style of fittings you use

isaksp00 · Jul 6, 2015

I have been told that it is not safe to just crimp the pelican hook, or threaded stud or whatever, to the wire. Meaning, smash it shut in one two or three places like with a big vise-grip. They are supposed to be roll swaged, which apparently does require a pretty expensive tool. But you can order a new line (coated or not) from many riggers, who can do the roll swaging for you.

Or, as centerline noted, use a swageless fitting. I did one end of my forestay after a furler foil repair using the Hayn fitting. It requires a bit of care to assemble, but is doable. Not cheap, however, perhaps the ones for smaller wire like a lifeline are not bad. It not only can be done by you, but can be removed if needed and reinstalled, such as for inspection or if you have to replace the wire again.

centerline · Jul 6, 2015

Chiriqui said:
Gees this gets more complicated by the replies
I've isolated that I can use 1/8th wire.
But hum can I do this myself.
One message reports buying line with the swags already done. I'm guessing that "swags" are the twisted ends with a sheath? ready to be attached to the hardware such as a Pelican

if the "swags" are already done, this means the line was inserted in to a hollow tube of the fitting and then the tube is either crimped down on the wire and will have very visible crimp marks, or it has been roll swaged, and it will look like a smooth stainless rod with the wire protruding out the end....

the pelican hook you are referring to, is it threaded inside?.... sometimes these are removable from the threaded end that crimps to the cable... and in this case just the threaded part needs to be purchased again, along with the new cable..

and yes, it can get complicated and expensive if you dont have the tools. and even more so when you dont know where to start with it all.
when you purchase ready made items, this expense is all taken into account and is priced accordingly...
so either pay the money to set yourself up to do it now, and have the tools for any future repairs (if you can find them again when needed), or pay the price of the new ready made rigging, ready to install.

Crazy Dave Condon · Jul 7, 2015

Centerline;

I referred the fellow to the manufacturer who made the life lines originally for hunter marine and they have on file what is needed.

Life Line diameter?

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