Let's Talk Grounding Tackle

Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
Let's Talk Ground Tackle

“You know you’re a cruiser when other boaters look at your anchor and say it’s too big.” – Unknown internet quote (can’t remember where I read it but it sounds good to me)

In Garry (aka Cap’n Fatty) Godlander’s book, Buy, Outfit and Sail, he gives some first hand experience on how important anchors are as safety gear on boats but I don’t plan to carry 7 or more like he does. Nor do I think carrying only one anchor is the right choice to go cruising, or even day sailing for that matter. So what is the right setup for grounding tackle to go cruise the ICW, Bahamas and the Caribbean?

Primary Anchor

From reading and my own experience I think having one oversized, primary anchor is better than trying to set multiple anchors for typical use. I am also firmly in the “new generation” anchor camp as I believe science and engineering can improve on the old designs. A couple years ago we were ready to purchase a new primary anchor for Smitty. So I went my typical route and over-researched the decision. I came to the conclusion that the best anchor for the money was the Manson Supreme. So based on the specifications of Smitty (30.73 LOA, Displacement of 10,700 pounds, Cruising Weight of around 13,000 pounds, and a relatively high freeboard) it appeared that the correct size Manson Supreme would be the 15 to 25 pound anchor. So we bought the 35 pound version.

We have been very happy with this anchor over the first two years. It sets quick, holds well and we have not found a bottom it didn’t like. Its a bit big on the bow but see the quote above. No need to change anything here.

Primary Rode

The current rode is 30 feet of 5/16″ G-4 Hi-Test galvanized chain with 200 feet of 1/2″ three strand nylon line. The chain has a working load limit of 3,900 pounds and the nylon line has an average tensile strength of 7,500 pounds.

In doing some research for our trip, I have decided that we need more chain due to chafe reasons. Our windlass does not have a chain gypsy, so what ever chain we have will have to be manually weighed to retrieve the grounding tackle. From what we experienced in the BVIs and what I read from others, we will typically find ourselves anchoring in 10 to 20 feet of water. This will mean that our typical scope (plan for 7 to 1, but more likely will have 5 to 1 due to crowded anchorages and limited swing area) would have us putting out 70 to 140 feet of rode. Given the curve of the rode based on catenary geometry, I would be comfortable with 90 feet of chain for chafe protection. I would also want a total rode of 250 feet for max deployment in case of a storm. Long story short, we are going to get a new primary anchor rode. Our current primary rode will become our backup rode (more on that later).

To be safe, I thought I would double check the sizing prior to making that upgrade. I did this using some of the sizing charts that have been posted on Cruisers Forum a number of times. These tables are generic and just help get to typical sizes. Information from the manufacture for the exact product I plan to buy will be consulted before I make final choices.

So designing my primary grounding tackle for up to 60 knots of wind, the load on the ground tackle will be around 3,000 to 3,200 pounds. So based on above, I should be looking for chain in the 5/16″ to 7/16″ size, a shackle in the 3/8″ to 1/2″ size and nylon rope in the 3/4″ size.

When I start to price this out at Defender, the 5/16″ Acco G-4 Hi-Test Chain has a working load limit of 3,900 pounds. A 90′ pail runs $375. The 1/2″ Crosby G-209 Anchor Shackle has a working load limit of around 4,500 pounds and costs $12.49. These seem like pretty straight forward choices.

Now the nylon rope, that get’s tricky. Rope is generally rated in two ways: tensile strength and safe working load. The tensile strength is the load at which new rope is expected to break. The safe working load is typically 10-20% of the tensile strength. In addition, tying the rope reduces the tensile strength by up to 50%. So the current 1/2″ 3 strand nylon rode has a tensile strength of 7,500 pounds. That would give it a safe working load of 750 to 1,500 pounds. That would make this the weak link in the system. The anticipated load on the rope in a 60 knotwind would be roughly 43% of the tensile strength.

To increase the safety margin here I need to either increase size or change to a different style. The three common choices are 3 strand, 8 strand plaited and nylon double braid. A quick comparison of tensile strength for 1/2″ line for all three with cost for 100 feet: 3 strand 7,500 pounds $102; 8 strand plaited 8,300 pounds $89; nylon double braid 7,900 pounds $104. There are pros and cons to all three when it comes to longevity, durability, ease of splicing, etc. When I weigh all of these, it leads me towards the 3 strand. So that means I would have to increase the size to increase the strength. By moving up to 3/4″ 3 strand the tensile strength increases to 17,150 pounds (safe working load of 1,715 to 3,430 pounds) at a cost of $174 for 100 feet. For 5/8″ 3 strand the tensile strength is 11,650 pounds (safe working load of 1,165 to 2,330 pounds) at cost of $143 for 100 feet.
Given the above, I think the best compromise for the rode would be 90 feet of 5/16″ G-4 Hi-Test Chain with a 150 feet of 3/4″ 3 strand rope.

Backup Anchor

The way the bow locker on Smitty is configured, I can hang a 13 pound backup Danforth anchor in the locker, out of the way. A Danforth of that size is rated for a 31 foot boat so it would make a good backup to have. The anchor rode I am now using on my primary would become the rode for this anchor. I can add a small divider in the anchor locker to help keep the rodes separate.

Storm Anchor

For those occasions that high wind storms are predicted, we will want a storm anchor. Currently on Smitty, that duty is being performed by a 35 pound Danforth (rated for a 40 foot boat). But recently we purchased a collapsible 50 pound fisherman’s anchor (rated for a 35 foot boat). The fisherman’s anchor will become our storm backup and our kedging anchor. It folds up flat and will fit in any number of storage locations. We have a rode for the storm anchor that is 30 feet of 5/16″ G4 chain with 200 feet of 1/2″ 3 strand. I will sell or trade the 35 pound Danforth.

So some might suggest that we go bigger with our storm anchor. But considering that we could have a 3 anchor set up with the oversized Manson Supreme and two other appropriately sized anchors (the Danforth and the fisherman’s) I think we have a solid plan for storms and backup anchors.

Stern Anchor

Recently we had a couple of drinks with the parents of some boating friends. Several years ago they did the ICW down to the Keys in their Catalina 36 MK II. One of their pieces of advice was to have a stern anchor. It should be set up so you can deploy it in seconds. One of their main reasons for suggesting this was dealing with bridges and traffic on the ICW. They said you often have to power straight into the closed bridges with the hope that the operator opens it in time. The operators often wait until the last minute to open the bridges to keep traffic flowing as much as possible. They said there was a couple of times when the operator miss-timed this and they had to deploy a stern anchor to slow them down. Also, they said that some of the ICW anchorages are very tight and that having a stern anchor out so you don’t swing too much was helpful.

I am going back and forth on this item. I am not a big fan of multiple anchors period because of the potential for tangling during tidal current swings.

Also, I am thinking a better idea for slowing down would be a drogue. Plus that could be used for other purposes. Even a bucket tied to a stern cleat with a dock line could work.

Bottom line on the stern anchor, I have not fully decided if we are going to add this anchor. If I were to add a stern anchor, it would probably be a Danforth, might even pay for the light weight Fortress (used of course). I could hang it from the stern rail somewhere in a convenient location.

All together this would put me at 3-4 anchors onboard. I think that would give me some good flexibility with different types for different conditions. As usual, feed back is always appreciated.

Cross posted on Cruiser's Forum and my blog.
 
Last edited:
Feb 26, 2004
22,782
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Good analysis. Those tables weren't posted on CF, I originally scanned them from Nigel Calder's Cruisers Handbook and posted them on our C34 Forum years ago in the "Anchor Sizing 101" topic, Anchor SYSTEM sizing, and keep linking to them when folks ask about anchor or chain sizes. Just takin' some credit here...:)

Have a great cruise, you've certainly planned this issue and many others very well.

Fair winds.

PS - Jesse, you might want to go back and change the subject title from GROUNDING tackle to GROUND tackle, the whole idea is to avoid grounding, no? :doh:

PPS - From a firend of mine - it sounds like you have your chain/rode lengths correct:

...with 100ft of chain. The rest of the world can debate all they like. When I pull into a place like Bodega Bay at midnight and the fog is so thick I can't see the jetty 50 feet away to make an entrance, I drop my hook in the rolling ocean swells with the surf crashing (Foster says it's like staying in a cheap Best Western beside the highway), and I sleep. And in the morning I have a windlass to pull the beast up and I wouldn't trade it for anything. (I also wouldn't add more chain - this works perfectly in 25 to 30 feet of water - you let all the chain out and you tie off nylon at the preferred scope and don't bother with snubbers and chain hooks and all that stuff...)
 
May 10, 2008
392
Catalina 355 Boston
“You know you’re a cruiser when other boaters look at your anchor and say it’s too big.” – Unknown internet quote (can’t remember where I read it but it sounds good to me) In Garry (aka Cap’n Fatty) Godlander’s book, Buy, Outfit and Sail, he gives some first hand experience on how important anchors are as safety gear on boats but I don’t plan to carry 7 or more like he does. Nor do I think carrying only one anchor is the right choice to go cruising, or even day sailing for that matter. So what is the right setup for grounding tackle to go cruise the ICW, Bahamas and the Caribbean? Primary Anchor From reading and my own experience I think having one oversized, primary anchor is better than trying to set multiple anchors for typical use. I am also firmly in the “new generation” anchor camp as I believe science and engineering can improve on the old designs. A couple years ago we were ready to purchase a new primary anchor for Smitty. So I went my typical route and over-researched the decision. I came to the conclusion that the best anchor for the money was the Manson Supreme. So based on the specifications of Smitty (30.73 LOA, Displacement of 10,700 pounds, Cruising Weight of around 13,000 pounds, and a relatively high freeboard) it appeared that the correct size Manson Supreme would be the 15 to 25 pound anchor. So we bought the 35 pound version. http://svsmitty.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/manson-supreme-on-bow.jpg We have been very happy with this anchor over the first two years. It sets quick, holds well and we have not found a bottom it didn’t like. Its a bit big on the bow but see the quote above. No need to change anything here. Primary Rode The current rode is 30 feet of 5/16´´ G-4 Hi-Test galvanized chain with 200 feet of 1/2´´ three strand nylon line. The chain has a working load limit of 3,900 pounds and the nylon line has an average tensile strength of 7,500 pounds. In doing some research for our trip, I have decided that we need more chain due to chafe reasons. Our windlass does not have a chain gypsy, so what ever chain we have will have to be manually weighed to retrieve the grounding tackle. From what we experienced in the BVIs and what I read from others, we will typically find ourselves anchoring in 10 to 20 feet of water. This will mean that our typical scope (plan for 7 to 1, but more likely will have 5 to 1 due to crowded anchorages and limited swing area) would have us putting out 70 to 140 feet of rode. Given the curve of the rode based on catenary geometry, I would be comfortable with 90 feet of chain for chafe protection. I would also want a total rode of 250 feet for max deployment in case of a storm. Long story short, we are going to get a new primary anchor rode. Our current primary rode will become our backup rode (more on that later). To be safe, I thought I would double check the sizing prior to making that upgrade. I did this using some of the sizing charts that have been posted on Cruisers Forum a number of times. These tables are generic and just help get to typical sizes. Information from the manufacture for the exact product I plan to buy will be consulted before I make final choices. http://svsmitty.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/smitty-design-loads-for-grounding-tackle.jpghttp://svsmitty.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/smitty-modified-working-load-limits.jpg So designing my primary grounding tackle for up to 60 knots of wind, the load on the ground tackle will be around 3,000 to 3,200 pounds. So based on above, I should be looking for chain in the 5/16´´ to 7/16´´ size, a shackle in the 3/8´´ to 1/2´´ size and nylon rope in the 3/4´´ size. When I start to price this out at Defender, the 5/16´´ Acco G-4 Hi-Test Chain has a working load limit of 3,900 pounds. A 90´ pail runs $375. The 1/2´´ Crosby G-209 Anchor Shackle has a working load limit of around 4,500 pounds and costs $12.49. These seem like pretty straight forward choices. Now the nylon rope, that get’s tricky. Rope is generally rated in two ways: tensile strength and safe working load. The tensile strength is the load at which new rope is expected to break. The safe working load is typically 10-20% of the tensile strength. In addition, tying the rope reduces the tensile strength by up to 50%. So the current 1/2´´ 3 strand nylon rode has a tensile strength of 7,500 pounds. That would give it a safe working load of 750 to 1,500 pounds. That would make this the weak link in the system. The anticipated load on the rope in a 60 knotwind would be roughly 43% of the tensile strength. To increase the safety margin here I need to either increase size or change to a different style. The three common choices are 3 strand, 8 strand plaited and nylon double braid. A quick comparison of tensile strength for 1/2´´ line for all three with cost for 100 feet: 3 strand 7,500 pounds $102; 8 strand plaited 8,300 pounds $89; nylon double braid 7,900 pounds $104. There are pros and cons to all three when it comes to longevity, durability, ease of splicing, etc. When I weigh all of these, it leads me towards the 3 strand. So that means I would have to increase the size to increase the strength. By moving up to 3/4´´ 3 strand the tensile strength increases to 17,150 pounds (safe working load of 1,715 to 3,430 pounds) at a cost of $174 for 100 feet. For 5/8´´ 3 strand the tensile strength is 11,650 pounds (safe working load of 1,165 to 2,330 pounds) at cost of $143 for 100 feet. Given the above, I think the best compromise for the rode would be 90 feet of 5/16´´ G-4 Hi-Test Chain with a 150 feet of 3/4´´ 3 strand rope. Backup Anchor The way the bow locker on Smitty is configured, I can hang a 13 pound backup Danforth anchor in the locker, out of the way. A Danforth of that size is rated for a 31 foot boat so it would make a good backup to have. The anchor rode I am now using on my primary would become the rode for this anchor. I can add a small divider in the anchor locker to help keep the rodes separate. Storm Anchor For those occasions that high wind storms are predicted, we will want a storm anchor. Currently on Smitty, that duty is being performed by a 35 pound Danforth (rated for a 40 foot boat). But recently we purchased a collapsible 50 pound fisherman’s anchor (rated for a 35 foot boat). The fisherman’s anchor will become our storm backup and our kedging anchor. It folds up flat and will fit in any number of storage locations. We have a rode for the storm anchor that is 30 feet of 5/16´´ G4 chain with 200 feet of 1/2´´ 3 strand. I will sell or trade the 35 pound Danforth. So some might suggest that we go bigger with our storm anchor. But considering that we could have a 3 anchor set up with the oversized Manson Supreme and two other appropriately sized anchors (the Danforth and the fisherman’s) I think we have a solid plan for storms and backup anchors. Stern Anchor Recently we had a couple of drinks with the parents of some boating friends. Several years ago they did the ICW down to the Keys in their Catalina 36 MK II. One of their pieces of advice was to have a stern anchor. It should be set up so you can deploy it in seconds. One of their main reasons for suggesting this was dealing with bridges and traffic on the ICW. They said you often have to power straight into the closed bridges with the hope that the operator opens it in time. The operators often wait until the last minute to open the bridges to keep traffic flowing as much as possible. They said there was a couple of times when the operator miss-timed this and they had to deploy a stern anchor to slow them down. Also, they said that some of the ICW anchorages are very tight and that having a stern anchor out so you don’t swing too much was helpful. I am going back and forth on this item. I am not a big fan of multiple anchors period because of the potential for tangling during tidal current swings. Also, I am thinking a better idea for slowing down would be a drogue. Plus that could be used for other purposes. Even a bucket tied to a stern cleat with a dock line could work. Bottom line on the stern anchor, I have not fully decided if we are going to add this anchor. If I were to add a stern anchor, it would probably be a Danforth, might even pay for the light weight Fortress (used of course). I could hang it from the stern rail somewhere in a convenient location. All together this would put me at 3-4 anchors onboard. I think that would give me some good flexibility with different types for different conditions. As usual, feed back is always appreciated. Cross posted on Cruiser's Forum and my blog.
We recently went through this when outfitting our current boat and basically made the same decisions you did. However we stayed with 35# MS and went with the Plait. We have 75 ft of the 5/16 HT and 200 ft of rode. Our only real experience with 'extreme' condition anchoring was getting caught in a microburst in Biddeford ME the first season we had the boat. What it taught me was the concern wasn't dragging, it was freeing the anchor. In the mud we typically have up here the Manson is like a pail-shouldn't be as much of a factor in sand. We use a Fortress as our secondary and wondering if you considered that in lieu of a separate stern anchor? It's lite enough to store in your anchor locker and walk it back should you need to use it as a stern anchor. Just a thought...
The couple we cruise with did the trip you have been talking about 8 years ago and they did the old CQR that was way oversized with 250 ft of 3/8. This was before the new gen anchors were an option and the CQR was considered the cruising anchor at the time...
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,782
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
CQR = crappy, questionable, replace

Why some people still think they're good is beyond me. Maybe they all like driving Model Ts in the rain. :):):)
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
CQR = crappy, questionable, replace

Why some people still think they're good is beyond me. Maybe they all like driving Model Ts in the rain. :):):)
Funny story. Our little First 260 came with one, and I could not wait to replace it with a much lighter Fortress. I listed it on Craigslist for $300, and had a dozen responses within a day. Sold that night for the ask. I never understood the almost mystical appeal of the thing.
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
Funny story. Our little First 260 came with one, and I could not wait to replace it with a much lighter Fortress. I listed it on Craigslist for $300, and had a dozen responses within a day. Sold that night for the ask. I never understood the almost mystical appeal of the thing.
We were cruising Maine for a short trip last year with a some friends in their Freedom 30. It was their first trip in their new-to-them boat. After the first night on anchor with their CQR they ditched it for their backup, a Fortress. Never went back. This year they purchased a new Rocna before leaving to head south and sold the CQR.
 

caguy

.
Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
Is there a secret besides being young and in good shape for retrieving 90' of chain without a windless? I struggle with my 20' of chain, I manage but it is a workout.
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
Is there a secret besides being young and in good shape for retrieving 90' of chain without a windless? I struggle with my 20' of chain, I manage but it is a workout.
Power forward while you are pulling it up? Something I will have to figure out.
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Is there a secret besides being young and in good shape for retrieving 90' of chain without a windless? I struggle with my 20' of chain, I manage but it is a workout.
It's not how long the chain is, it's how deep the water is.

100 feet of chain in 10 feet of water? easy. 100 feet of chain in 50 feet of water? workout.
 

caguy

.
Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
I can pull the rode up just fine and use the waves to break the anchor loose but like you said when it come to pulling up the chain it is a workout. My favorite fishing hole is in 75' of water. Like I say 30 feet is a workout. I was wondering how he planned to pull 90' to as you so astutely pointed out 75' of actual hanging chain without a winch. In Catalina where the Island fall off quickly you are usually in about 40-70 feet of water. I have a line on a mechanical winch for the Lugar 30 project for that very reason.
The OP mentioned that he does not have a chain gypsy.
 
May 10, 2008
392
Catalina 355 Boston
CQR = crappy, questionable, replace Why some people still think they're good is beyond me. Maybe they all like driving Model Ts in the rain. :):):)
Just to clarify, neither they or I was in any way advocating a CQR. I just mentioned it because they happened to have done the same trip that Jesse is preparing for and when they left, that was pretty much considered the go to choice for cruisers. So they were traveling in the day of the model T ;). Probably will regret this, but they did survive 4 years using that hook without a problem. Would they use one if they were leaving tomorrow? No way!
 

Tom J

.
Sep 30, 2008
2,309
Catalina 310 Quincy, MA
Power forward while you are pulling it up? Something I will have to figure out.
We use hand signals. I give the Admiral the signal to power up, or go to neutral, and haul in the chain as the tension comes off it. To break the anchor out, I take a turn on a cleat and signal for power. We use 100' of chain with 100' of 3-strand nylon, and a Delta anchor. My dock mates swear by the Supreme, so that is a future purchase for us.
We found out the hard way that using the 100' of chain can be detrimental in the ICW. Weird things happen when the wind is against the current, so we keep a 200' nylon rode handy, with 20' of chain, and either a Bruce or Fortress anchor. Many times it helps to deploy two anchors in a Bahamian Moor, or bow and stern.
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
We use hand signals. I give the Admiral the signal to power up, or go to neutral, and haul in the chain as the tension comes off it. To break the anchor out, I take a turn on a cleat and signal for power. We use 100' of chain with 100' of 3-strand nylon, and a Delta anchor. My dock mates swear by the Supreme, so that is a future purchase for us. We found out the hard way that using the 100' of chain can be detrimental in the ICW. Weird things happen when the wind is against the current, so we keep a 200' nylon rode handy, with 20' of chain, and either a Bruce or Fortress anchor. Many times it helps to deploy two anchors in a Bahamian Moor, or bow and stern.
I also think Paulj uses the windlass by wrapping chain around it. Something I plan to try this summer.

Thanks for the input on the ICW. I was hoping you would add some real world input from a 310 perspective.
 

Tom J

.
Sep 30, 2008
2,309
Catalina 310 Quincy, MA
I also think Paulj uses the windlass by wrapping chain around it. Something I plan to try this summer.

Thanks for the input on the ICW. I was hoping you would add some real world input from a 310 perspective.
You're welcome, Jesse. We can discuss this more over some cold ones in Andante's cockpit this summer, if you like.
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,782
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
I also think Paulj uses the windlass by wrapping chain around it. Something I plan to try this summer.

Thanks for the input on the ICW. I was hoping you would add some real world input from a 310 perspective.
Jesse, the issue, as others have mentioned, is water depth. On your cruise, you would be wonderfully enlightened if you found 20 feet. That'd be DEEP.

WAAAY different on the west coast, although my friend's experience was on the west coast.
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
You're welcome, Jesse. We can discuss this more over some cold ones in Andante's cockpit this summer, if you like.
That is definitely the type of invitation I like. Drinks and cruising talk. I am in. With my new dinghy I should be able to power over in like 20 minutes.
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
Jesse, the issue, as others have mentioned, is water depth. On your cruise, you would be wonderfully enlightened if you found 20 feet. That'd be DEEP.

WAAAY different on the west coast, although my friend's experience was on the west coast.
Yeah, that's what we figured. We currently hand pull the last 30 feet right now because of the chain so I don't think it will be too difficult. I do wish they still made the kits to add the chain gypsy onto my windlass.