Let the games begin!
- Thread starter Mr Mac
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It rained on us and it rained hard! Still, we did get some work done inside the boat.
This is pretty much how it looked when we bought her. A lot of stuff everywhere and not a whole lot of cleaning by the PO. In all fairness, the PO does have health issues and doesn't get around too well.
After moving stuff out to the dumpster we found the sole!
And then we cleaned it!
We relocated the cockpit cushions outside while we cleaned inside. We brought them home for a good machine washing!
This is pretty much how it looked when we bought her. A lot of stuff everywhere and not a whole lot of cleaning by the PO. In all fairness, the PO does have health issues and doesn't get around too well.
After moving stuff out to the dumpster we found the sole!
And then we cleaned it!
We relocated the cockpit cushions outside while we cleaned inside. We brought them home for a good machine washing!
She looks a little weathered, but not too bad. Every boat is a project. Take your time and have fun with your project. I always wanted to sail On Carlyle Lake. My father was born and raised in Carlyle and we visited the lake every year for family reunioins. I almost brought one of my trailer sailors there, but sold it before the reunion.
Kind of reminds me of Midnight Sun after a thousand mile race. You will be amazed how well she cleans up.
We got back out to the marina yesterday for a couple of hours. The wife worked on the V-berth and I scrubbed the starboard side topside. It took a lot of scrubbing but she is coming clean! I also did a part of the cockpit so Chey (Mrs Mac) could have a clean place to sit.
A week from Wednesday we are going to have her hauled out and placed on the cradle and I'll head back out with my pressure washer to finish the hull.
Before...
After...
I can see I'll have some gelcoat work to do in the cockpit as well.
A week from Wednesday we are going to have her hauled out and placed on the cradle and I'll head back out with my pressure washer to finish the hull.
Before...
After...
I can see I'll have some gelcoat work to do in the cockpit as well.
Mr Mac:
Thanks for your post including the pictures. As another Cherubini Hunter owner (1980 build), your post/pictures prompts the following observations which were successful for me:
- Upon my purchase of my boat, the non-skid sections on the side deck, the cabin top and the cockpit seats were much like in your pic's. Stained, but in very good mechanical shape underneath the grime. Using a an electric 1400 psi type pressure washer on the "fan" setting and the gun end not to close, I was able to clean the non-skid very well and get off the surface oxidation without damaging further. Underneath, all the original stippling relief was still ok - almost new looking. But I was concerned that maybe this wasn't the case for long in the continued UV exposure. So think about re-coating the non-skid before it begins to degrade. I used Interlux 2-part Perfection mixed with their non-skid granular additive and mixed with their flattening agent to reduce the gloss. I did this five years ago. And the non-skid today still looks virtually brand new. Because a perfect application finish isn't required on non-skid, and I knew that the area was never waxed, all I did was mask the areas and paint on with a brush. Just took a morning. Because the non-skid section has lots of surface porosity, no pre-primer is necessary. I suggest that you choose a color that matches your existing non-skid, or at least is close. Two part Perfection will last many years longer than one-part non-skid finishes.
- Your port frames still look OK. But again, UV is bound to take a toll soon. I painted mine with Rust-Oleum's hammer finish paint to protect. Easy to apply and lasts a couple of years. Refinishing with a second coat after a few years is just matter of just aggressively wiping off the surface oxidation with a terry-cloth rag and repainting. Attached are a couple of pictures of my boat after painting the non-skid the port frames.
- If your exterior smooth gel-coat on the cabin top and in the cockpit is still ok (mine wasn't and needed repainting), wax it soon to protect. Resist getting wax on the non-skid if you do think you might ever want to paint the non-skid sections.
- Going inside: Best I could tell from my boat, Hunter's original treatment of the teak was simply teak oil. I found that a product called "Zep Industrial Purple", a very strong water based cleaner/degreaser available at Home Depot, removed the years of grime from the surface, but didn't remove the underlying stain or damage the teak. Here is a link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-1-gal-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-ZU0856128/100047759#.Um1mT1OWaSo. A strong concentration of the stuff is necessary. Wipe on with a sponge. And wipe off several times with another sponge constantly refreshed with clean water. Be sure to wear protective gloves as the stuff will cause detergent burns. And be careful about splashing/dripping the "purple" on anything that you don't want to clean. After, I just applied MinWax "wipe-on" polyurethane to protect and give the teak a satin sheen. Looks great to my eye compared to actually varnishing everything ... and a lot easier. Industrial Purple will also do a great job I think on the interior mold. And in your engine room. I can't tell what "wall fabric" lines your v-berth. Mine was a vinyl wall paper that looked like straw weave. It was filthy and wouldn't clean with normal cleaners. Industrial Purple did cut through and the vinyl is now almost new looking again. Much easier than removing and re-applying new covering. About Industrial Purple: Your discretion about what to do with the drainage waste ...
Hope the recount of my experience gives you some ideas.
Thanks for your post including the pictures. As another Cherubini Hunter owner (1980 build), your post/pictures prompts the following observations which were successful for me:
- Upon my purchase of my boat, the non-skid sections on the side deck, the cabin top and the cockpit seats were much like in your pic's. Stained, but in very good mechanical shape underneath the grime. Using a an electric 1400 psi type pressure washer on the "fan" setting and the gun end not to close, I was able to clean the non-skid very well and get off the surface oxidation without damaging further. Underneath, all the original stippling relief was still ok - almost new looking. But I was concerned that maybe this wasn't the case for long in the continued UV exposure. So think about re-coating the non-skid before it begins to degrade. I used Interlux 2-part Perfection mixed with their non-skid granular additive and mixed with their flattening agent to reduce the gloss. I did this five years ago. And the non-skid today still looks virtually brand new. Because a perfect application finish isn't required on non-skid, and I knew that the area was never waxed, all I did was mask the areas and paint on with a brush. Just took a morning. Because the non-skid section has lots of surface porosity, no pre-primer is necessary. I suggest that you choose a color that matches your existing non-skid, or at least is close. Two part Perfection will last many years longer than one-part non-skid finishes.
- Your port frames still look OK. But again, UV is bound to take a toll soon. I painted mine with Rust-Oleum's hammer finish paint to protect. Easy to apply and lasts a couple of years. Refinishing with a second coat after a few years is just matter of just aggressively wiping off the surface oxidation with a terry-cloth rag and repainting. Attached are a couple of pictures of my boat after painting the non-skid the port frames.
- If your exterior smooth gel-coat on the cabin top and in the cockpit is still ok (mine wasn't and needed repainting), wax it soon to protect. Resist getting wax on the non-skid if you do think you might ever want to paint the non-skid sections.
- Going inside: Best I could tell from my boat, Hunter's original treatment of the teak was simply teak oil. I found that a product called "Zep Industrial Purple", a very strong water based cleaner/degreaser available at Home Depot, removed the years of grime from the surface, but didn't remove the underlying stain or damage the teak. Here is a link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-1-gal-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-ZU0856128/100047759#.Um1mT1OWaSo. A strong concentration of the stuff is necessary. Wipe on with a sponge. And wipe off several times with another sponge constantly refreshed with clean water. Be sure to wear protective gloves as the stuff will cause detergent burns. And be careful about splashing/dripping the "purple" on anything that you don't want to clean. After, I just applied MinWax "wipe-on" polyurethane to protect and give the teak a satin sheen. Looks great to my eye compared to actually varnishing everything ... and a lot easier. Industrial Purple will also do a great job I think on the interior mold. And in your engine room. I can't tell what "wall fabric" lines your v-berth. Mine was a vinyl wall paper that looked like straw weave. It was filthy and wouldn't clean with normal cleaners. Industrial Purple did cut through and the vinyl is now almost new looking again. Much easier than removing and re-applying new covering. About Industrial Purple: Your discretion about what to do with the drainage waste ...
Hope the recount of my experience gives you some ideas.
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Very nice Mr. Mac! Can't really go wrong for $1300. She looks extremely similar [even purchase condition] to the 1978 H25 I just purchased for $1000. The PO neglected her for several years, so there's some mold and mildew and rotted wood I've discovered after removing 13 of the 30-gallon bags worth of trash from the interior.
I've posted a LOT of information regarding the refit on my blog that I'm updating with each project I complete to refit this little gem. The blog is: http://siochana.us and the posts specific to this refit is : http://siochana.us/category/hunter-25-refit/ .
Looking forward to following yours.
Mike
I've posted a LOT of information regarding the refit on my blog that I'm updating with each project I complete to refit this little gem. The blog is: http://siochana.us and the posts specific to this refit is : http://siochana.us/category/hunter-25-refit/ .
Looking forward to following yours.
Mike
Hi Mr. Mac- It looks like your v-berth is lined with the original "mouse fur" carpet. My cherubini had the same and it looked as nasty as yours. I cleaned mine following instructions I found on this website and it looks brand-new now. Basically I used 4 steps: 1) Clorox/water mix scrubbed on with stiff brush; fairly strong concentration and liberally applied. Used paper towels to cleanup the brown water that dripped down.
2) Hydrogen Peroxide sprayed on using a "mister" bottle; again, I applied it liberally and scrubbed the carpet with the brush. I read that it will destroy the old mold cells so new mold will not feed on the dead mold.
3) Oxyclean type cleaner mixed in water- strong concentration scrubbed with brush.
4) Clean water rinse- dipped brush in bucket and scrubbed.
The entire time I would clean-up the dark mess that dripped off. I then dried the carpet by rubbing with old towels. It sounds like a lot of work but I did the entire insides of my boat in less than 2 hours- v-berth, quarter berth and both sides of salon. All of the discoloration will come out and the boat looks and smells great.
2) Hydrogen Peroxide sprayed on using a "mister" bottle; again, I applied it liberally and scrubbed the carpet with the brush. I read that it will destroy the old mold cells so new mold will not feed on the dead mold.
3) Oxyclean type cleaner mixed in water- strong concentration scrubbed with brush.
4) Clean water rinse- dipped brush in bucket and scrubbed.
The entire time I would clean-up the dark mess that dripped off. I then dried the carpet by rubbing with old towels. It sounds like a lot of work but I did the entire insides of my boat in less than 2 hours- v-berth, quarter berth and both sides of salon. All of the discoloration will come out and the boat looks and smells great.
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