Legend 40.5 - what length hose for forward head replacement?

[baycloud]

Hey all, looking to replace the hose for the forward head. Planning to use raritan saniflex since I hear it's more ductile. For those who have done it, how many feet of hose should I buy?

Also has anyone replaced the siphon loop hoses? Doesn't seem possible to me without cutting an access hose behind the head mirrors for the aft head; not sure for the forward head.

Thank you!

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

I recall replacing both - i bought a replacement for the long fwd head only after removing the old one so never measured. Replaced the aft head vent hose via access behind the electrical breaker panel. Not a fun job.

 

[baycloud]

Interesting. I've scoured the forums and everyone seems to say (for the forward head) to tie the two hoses together and pull the new one through using the old one as a lead line. Doesn't the hose go in between the pan and the hull? How did you push the hose through from the tank to the forward berth area?

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Considering you didn't mention the year of your boat, you certainly like to live dangerously. Even given the same length boats all of the same year, it's doubtful you'd find them all with the same length of hoses. Production cars they are not.

This is truly one case of measure twice, again and again, and cut once .

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Interesting. I've scoured the forums and everyone seems to say (for the forward head) to tie the two hoses together and pull the new one through using the old one as a lead line. Doesn't the hose go in between the pan and the hull? How did you push the hose through from the tank to the forward berth area?

I pulled the floor boards, some of which had to come up to remove the original aluminum holding tank anyway so it wasn’t much more work and exposed the hose for easy replacement. I can’t imagine trying to snake a hose through. There was no pan. Did the folks who suggested that actually do it or was that just an opinion based on conjecture?

 

[baycloud]

It's a 1993, hull 558.

Don that's what I read. I have the plywood floors out now, I'll take a second look this weekend. I saw the forward head hose seemingly disappear and I don't know where it leads to in the midsection. I didn't see it below the starboard settee.

When you replaced it, we're you able to visually see most of the hose and access it?

 

[artboas]

I pulled the floor boards, some of which had to come up to remove the original aluminum holding tank anyway so it wasn’t much more work and exposed the hose for easy replacement. I can’t imagine trying to snake a hose through. There was no pan. Did the folks who suggested that actually do it or was that just an opinion based on conjecture?

You MUST use the original hose to pull the new one. If you try to pull it on it’s own, it will get caught up in the grid.
You will need to buy enough hose to do the fwd & aft head, and add some length for safety.
Then, you start by removing the floors
Then, go to the fwd head hose.
Cut the end on a very straight 90 degree.
Get a piece of wood dowel the same ID as the hose about 4” long.
Put 2” into the old hose.
Then, use #8 RH screws to connect the hose to the dowel
Put the new hose onto the dowel, and screw it on.
Use at least 4 screws
Run tape around the seam,
Get a jar of PTFE grease (Starbrire). You are going to lather this on the new hose as it keeps getting pulled in,
Attach a rope to the end of the old hose at the tank by drilling holes through the wall.
Now, someone pushes, and the other pulls.
If you follow these directions, you’ll get the new hose through quite easily. I can virtually guarantee you that this is about the only way to do it, as it took me 2 miserable days to figure that out.
Once the hose is through, cut off the excess, and use it to plumb the aft head. This one is easy by comparison

 

[Rick D]

You MUST use the original hose to pull the new one. If you try to pull it on it’s own, it will get caught up in the grid.
You will need to buy enough hose to do the fwd & aft head, and add some length for safety.
Then, you start by removing the floors
Then, go to the fwd head hose.
Cut the end on a very straight 90 degree.
Get a piece of wood dowel the same ID as the hose about 4” long.
Put 2” into the old hose.
Then, use #8 RH screws to connect the hose to the dowel
Put the new hose onto the dowel, and screw it on.
Use at least 4 screws
Run tape around the seam,
Get a jar of PTFE grease (Starbrire). You are going to lather this on the new hose as it keeps getting pulled in,
Attach a rope to the end of the old hose at the tank by drilling holes through the wall.
Now, someone pushes, and the other pulls.
If you follow these directions, you’ll get the new hose through quite easily. I can virtually guarantee you that this is about the only way to do it, as it took me 2 miserable days to figure that out.
Once the hose is through, cut off the excess, and use it to plumb the aft head. This one is easy by comparison

Art. this is great advice. I am changing my forward head and will do the same while I am at it (already did the aft head).

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

It's a 1993, hull 558.

Don that's what I read. I have the plywood floors out now, I'll take a second look this weekend. I saw the forward head hose seemingly disappear and I don't know where it leads to in the midsection. I didn't see it below the starboard settee.

When you replaced it, we're you able to visually see most of the hose and access it?

Yes. The hose was routed around and thru one stringer but otherwise visible. Mine was a 93 also.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Then, you start by removing the floors
Then, go to the fwd head hose.
Cut the end on a very straight 90 degree.
Get a piece of wood dowel the same ID as the hose about 4” long.
Put 2” into the old hose.
Then, use #8 RH screws to connect the hose to the dowel
Put the new hose onto the dowel, and screw it on.
Use at least 4 screws
Run tape around the seam,

Or you could just buy a PVC "hose mender" fitting (male-male) and "cement" the hoses onto it using any "glue" of your choice to hold the hoses on the fitting, making sure you've butted their ends tightly together (or wrap in tape).

Just sayin....

--Peggie

 

[artboas]

Or you could just buy a PVC "hose mender" fitting (male-male) and "cement" the hoses onto it using any "glue" of your choice to hold the hoses on the fitting, making sure you've butted their ends tightly together (or wrap in tape).

Just sayin...
--Peggie

Yes, this will definitely work as well.
Good suggestion

 

[baycloud]

For the archives or future readers, the answer: 18 feet. 19 if you're extra cautious. I think I cut off around 3.5 feet from my 21 foot order.

The original replaced black hose had lots of bubbles in it but appeared to have no holes. I'd have given it another 5 years or more before real failure, however it was very lightly used.
Cheers